\tAllelopathic EffectAllelopathy is the ability of an organism to produce chemicals that are toxic to other organisms. Marigold roots release the chemical alpha-terthienyl, one of the most toxic naturally occurring compounds found to date (Gommers and Bakker, 1988). This compound is nematicidal, insecticidal, antiviral, and cytotoxic (Arnason et al., 1989; Marles et al., 1992).The presence of alpha-terthienyl inhibits the hatching of nematode eggs (Siddiqui and Alam, 1988). However if in a field setting, it is unclear if marigolds producing alpha-terthienyl inhibit development because of the alpha-terthienyl itself or because marigolds are a non-host for certain nematodes. Nematodes may not feed or develop on non-host plants even when they do not contain allelopathic compounds. Furthermore, Meloidogyne spp. juveniles were unable to fully develop in the roots of T. erecta (Ploeg and Maris, 1999). source
Wow man I really appreciate this discussion as a whole and this contribution. I'm hopefully starting a large grow shortly and have been looking adopting methods I use for all other gardening in my life. If my veggie beds are packed with a diversity of polycultures why am I not making sense of this in my indoor gardens? The obvious concerns of pests is understandable, and growing in a simulated space will necessarily rule out certain organisms. But the right keystone species like mycorrhizal fungi (those that pair with plant roots to expand soil networks for resources) and primary or secondary saprophytic fungi (eats only dead forest litter) in a thick bed of nutrient rich mulch seems would attract all the other organisms needed for a healthy soil food web. I'm considering trying a no till system in planters 4 x 6. Soil will be comprised of mineral powders and basalt rock dust, compost, topsoil, meals, various species of earthworms, and mulch of straws and shredded oak leaves inoculated with elm oyster (which will break down the mulch and distribute converted nutrients over time). I was thinking of planting dynamic nutrient accumulators and nitrogen fixers (borage, nettles, wild mustards, comfrey in a separate grow container, field pea, white clover, and vetch).around that can be used. These plants can take aggressive cutting and bounce back so you can have chop and drop material at arm's length for all your plants. I love the idea of recycling pots too and I'm interested to know if you have any information to follow up on? Interesting about nitrogen fixers is that their roots systems are where the bacterial colonies lie and where your cannabis can suck it up. I wonder if it would be best to cut your fixer to the soil, or perhaps a few inches of woody root heart too, and leave the little roots to decompose as your hungry cutting takes off. Anyone have some more experience to share on this subject? For those interested in getting into beneficial soil food webs there are two considerations. First, nitrogen fixers need the appropriate species of bacteria to associate with, otherwise fixers aren't fixing. It's the relationship between the plant and it's companion rhyzobium bacteria and make the magic happen. A good inoculation will mean your fixers have not one yellowed leaf, everything should be green green green for no lack of nitrogen. It's best to soak your seed with some inoculant so when they break their shell the match is symbiosis begins. When you cut plants, their roots systems are often (not always) pruned to support the organism enough for top regrowth. This is a shot of nutrients below the ground that you wouldn't get with companions in separate pots. Second consideration is your water source. Chlorine is a generalist anti-microbial in that it kills without consideration of its potential beneficial presence. Some municipal water systems use chloramine now instead which cannot be removed as easily as the former. chlorine can be aerated a few hours or left to sit for a minimum of 24 hours and it will volatize. Chloramine can either be filtered with a high-end filtration system, or about 1000 mg of vitamin C will convert 50 gallons of your tap water chloramine into chlorides that are more inert. I've opted for the filtration option because that stuff isn't good for your beneficial gut microbes either, but that's another story.
I love using a Masanobu Fukuoka method with hemp. Just as a warning though, do not follow any edible bean with hemp. It can harbor diseases hemp is susceptible to. Same with some other crops like wheat and soy. Choose your species wisely. This is also a crop that must be rotated outdoors. Watch for neighboring pollination too.
I am starting my first true organic grow. I want to do this right. How do you use the companion plants? When do I plant them into my pot?
I put my seed down at the same time as planting (dill, basil x2, radish x2, oats, kale x4 and clover). I chop my greens when they start to become shaded off by the canpy and feed them to the chickens. When I chop them I plant more seed. Clover is the exception, I don't cut.
I have 3 golden cherry tomato plants, 6 basil (3 plants/pot) and 2 Serrano pepper plants going along side my main crop. I started them all from seed. The basil were the easiest to germinate, and the tomatoes were not bad either. The peppers on the other hand were much more difficult. By the time I had everything ready for go for my additional crops my light cycle was at 12/12. Which hasn't seemed to affect the growth. The tomatoplants are doing great. One is about 5' tall and all are starting to show fruit. The basil is starting to exploded. I now have all the fresh basil my family can use. The peppers are slow going, but that is how they grow I have read. I'm hoping come end of spring I can transplant them outside. It's been a fun experiment using the little extra space in my tent. I truly love gardening. Life's a garden, dig it!
sure, check out some of the pictures on my grow journal. I grow lemon balm with my indoor and outdoor plants as a companion plant to increase essential oil production.