Hi all, first grow and new to posting, so bear with me. I initially posted this on micks thread, but starting a new one as I will have too many questions. Any advice, constructive criticism, or thoughts are appreciated. I will add to it as time goes on basing this grow off of micks coco kiss scrog. At one week since sprout. I have the plants in solo cups w 1:1 coco perlite Feeding: 1/4 tsp maxibloom 2ml silica blast 1ml cal mag per gallon of water I have a 6” inline exhaust fan set to a thermostat That keeps temps nicely in the 73 to 75 f range strain is regular seeds cookie glue from equilibrium seeds I have a couple preliminary questions with more to follow I’m sure. 1) mixing nutes... I’ve been adding silica first, ph-ing to 6ish Add dissolved maxibloom Add cal mag Ph to 6.0 Water plants immediately after mixing to 20-30% run off daily runoff was coming out at 6 or very close Does this sound correct? Not sure if I need to supplement w cal mag City water quality report shows 53ppm calcium And 21ppm magnesium (Anyone more familiar w ppm values- should I supplement?) (2)Lighting: I have a China made 480w (true watts) “quantum board” w legit Samsung lm301h 3500k diodes and dimmable meanwell driver. Not the true hlg or next light like mick has, but seems decent. I have I dimmed down to around 140 true watts and about 14” from the solo cups. Should I be brighter/dimmer or farther/ closer I have no idea, so I could be way off. Just guessing (3)Humidity: at 55% RH not sure if I should have bags over solo cups or if getting the leaves dancing with the computer fans is better? seedlings look ok, definitely a little smaller than micks for week 1. They are not stretching at all and have some “rust?” Spots on them. The closeup pics are of the 2 worst ones I have many more questions, but those are the big ones for now. any feedback for a novice appreciated, thank you!
Update: after reading the local tap water report, it was suggested to me to get a TDS meter. A Thank you to @vaperman for investing some time into helping me out. I found that my tap water was coming out at 450+PPM I suspect that this could have been causing some of the rust spots on the leaves. Debated what route to go to get better water, and then a temporary solution fell from the sky. I was able to collect 30 gal of rain water. The plants have had 2 days of being watered with rain water, and total ppm of 400 or so Now adding 3ml/gal cal mag. (This got me to a similar ppm as combined cal and mag in city water) I think the plants are liking it, but alas I have more questions. I rinsed and buffered a small batch of coco just for the seedlings/ solo cups using this high ppm tap water I was able to rinse and buffer the coco for the larger pots with the rain water, and have this mix ready to go. Would it be beneficial to transplant the 10 day old plants into the (9 liter?) smart pots with the new coco sooner than later? I can see quite a few roots at the drain holes of the solo cup.
Sup dude, glade to see ya got your thread up and running. Rain water is a great option if ya can store enough of it without fear of running out. You can always cut it with your tap to conserve even more. I know ppl that have 4 -55 gal collection drums catching water from there houses down spouts , store it and keep it oxygenated with air stones . As far as mixing your ferts , silica always first and make sure ya let it settle a bit or you will get hot pockets. Calmag second if your using pure rain water. Ya gotta use it with every feeding using rain water. No cal or mag in it at all. You can probably use 50/50 rain tap and not need the calmag but if things are turning around don’t change nothing . Ph only when everything is added.except if you using gh rapid start. Ya add that after ya ph. Coco is very friendly. After you switched to rain, it flushed all that excess tap water shit out. I would wait till the roots fill the cup. Your plants may need A longer veg time due to set backs n slow growth but they will bounce back. Gl ~ vape Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Hey thanks for the reply, I’ve been keeping on the same nute schedule of 400-450ppm w 3 mg cal mag/gal every feed. All run off at good ph and ppm No rust spots on new growth, but still not going great. I’ve noticed that the leaves droop before lights out, which I’ve read can be normal? But I have purple stems and weird twisting leaves.(mainly in the “evening”) Hard to find anything too similar on google, but logic tells me they’re trying to get less light? Also, how long before plants respond to changes? I’ve tried looking all this up.. a lot- but there is a lot of conflicting info out there I don’t mean to inundate you with questions and don’t feel obligated to answer. how’s your grow going?
Sup dude, twisting leaves can be caused by a bunch of different things. Curling leaves some times occur during heat stress and dramatic changes during humidity. Are you keeping an eye on temps and humidity when lights are off? I wish I could tell ya for sure but I can’t . You have dimmable lights, corrected your water problem . Armed with your tds and ph meter and seem to be doing everything right. Adjusting the height of your light is always tough . I’m actually looking into a meter . I have a older blurple light right now. 630 actual watts , Ordering progrowtech ev 700 to replace it real soon. I have nothing going right now. Been getting my room repainted and been building scrog screens and pretty much getting ready for next run. Seeds on the way . Barney’s farm blue cheese , pineapple chunk. Dank genetics dank sherbet , dna blue widow and a few others . Here’s some pics of my set up and what I been doing Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Get em transplanted mate. Won't need any calmag if using your tap water. Mik knows his shit so just do what he does and you'll be good
Ok, looking at the roots I decided to transplant yesterday I’m at just over 2 weeks from sprout. Plants are looking happier in general, planning on topping once they show some vigor in their new pots. going to keep the nutes at 400 or so ppm and maybe bump up to 500 when they have a little more growth The temp got down to 63f in the cabinet, I think that’s tolerable? One question about watering in the new pots.. Should I be saturating all the coco to 20% runoff, or start a little lighter for the new transplants? take care- Caleb
Looking much better bro. Your tap water was the prob for sure. Ya wanna completely saturate the coco. Ya don’t want dry pockets. What’s your humidity at lights out ? Did you adjust your lights? Was curious about the twisting n horning ya had going on. You should have a much easier time now that you straightened out your water problem. Just keep in mind as they get bigger they are going to want more calmag as long as your still using rainwater . Good luck bro. Hope I was some help for ya man. Patiently waiting for my seeds to get hear to get my grow under way. Just got my Titan Mercury 4 fan controller . Works perfectly . Fan Runs on high when temps hit 80 and isles down to 50% once 78f is reached to maintain 78f during lights on. Lights off It idles down to 25% to keep the negative air pressure and air exchange going. My humidity climbs at lights off so when the humidity creeps up to 60 ( in flower room) the humidistat will kick on my dehumidifier to drop it to 50% . When lights on if it go’s below 50% it will kick on my humidifier to raise it. Think I have my environment completely dialed in for the first time since I been growing. 78 at lights on and 70-72 at lights off. Veg I just regulate my humidity to keep it around 65-70. ~ vape Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Hey, thanks I’ve learned a lot. I took a peek at the humidity at lights out- humidity way up at 85%. I guess this is from the drop in temp. I wonder if I can fix that with a little warmth, not dehumidifier? Don’t have a lot of extra space. Ordered a wireless therm /hygrometer that actually will make time graphs on your phone I have a dimmer on the exhaust fan, and that is hooked to a thermostat, so the exhaust fan shuts off when the temps drop below 70- still some light air blowing in the box from computer fans. Could this be a problem? I did raise my light actually- still at 140w true And 22” Some stuff out there about people using that distance for young plants w the 135w HLG boards. Same same leds, same driver- I think they liked it. Not getting the twisting. They are still drooping before lights out, and I have some lightening of the leaves between veins, but otherwise looking happier. Been reading a lot about cal mag. I figured if I matched the combined ppm of cal and mag that’s in the city water I would be good. -for feeding and for buffering the coco. Some people claim up to 15ml/gal cal mag+ to buffer coco- I didn’t do that, seemed excessive. Been keeping the feed the same, maybe a tiny extra splash of cal mag yesterday. At 3ml/gal still in rain water RO system goin in today -runoff ph was down to 5.5 or so in new pots. I’m used to it being 6. Tested my runoff of new pots before transplanting and was 6 Ppm is only up 40ppm from feed water Not going to change anything, just monitor I suppose Your room sounds pretty dialed, I wish I had more space/ a real room. The variable speed fan controller seems like a good idea. Nice job, and thanks for the helpful advice. -take care
Looking good! Question, when you water are you soaking all that soil? If so to runoff? If so how much?
Sup bro, the drastic change in humidity could very well cause the twisting and horning. I see in your pic your humidity range in a 24hr period is a 30% swing , throw in the the possibility of your lights being to low and I would bet the ranch on that call . Try to rectify that before the flip or your going to have big problem like bud rot, powdery white mold just to name a few. As far as using the rain water, make sure you have an air pump and air stones going in your storage container at all times creating oxygen rich h20. Ya don’t want to use to stagnant water. Leaving tap or whatever for 24hrs is no big deal but a longer period of time its a must. I use a heavy duty 27gal tote to store my tap. My tap water. ppm is 170 consistently with a ph of 7.1. A gallon of water sitting out for 24hrs the ppm will drop to 130 or so. 27gall or so take 3 days for the ppm to drop to 130 or so. I’m not exactly sure why but could be because of temperature change . Ph stays the same ,how ever air stones seem to raise the ph to 8.0.. depending on brand coco is pre buffered . I use canna coco bricks. A reliable low ppm and well buffered . Lower grade will need rinsing and pre charging . Ya wanna use a lot to prebuffer ....here’s a informative vid from coco for cannabis on pre buffering . Ya may wanna up the cal mag to full strength when feeding too. I think it’s 5ml a gal. Keep an eye on yellowing between the veins . Could be a calmag thang .. you got this bro, just ironing out the wrinkles. Micks thread is awesome , hell.. .. it was the reason I switched to coco, however everyones situation is different as far as water quality and environment . Once thats taken care of and ya know what your working with, As far as starting water ppm is concerned , that’s when things come together. If micks tap water was as hard as yours, he most likely would have had the same problem. I’m all for keeping things simple and working smarter and not harder but I am always looking for rhyme or reason as to why.... and you will only know that with the proper tools for the trade so to speak , and in this case... a inexpensive ppm meter. Good luck bro , keep posting with successes and concerns . I’ll try n help whenever I can and and celebrate with ya on a grow well done in the end . Here’s that vid - vape Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
yes, I’ve been watering until runoff. It was the It was my first first feed on new pots, so still trying to figure out the magic amount. Aiming for 20% runoff
Thanks bud, I’ll post w changes. Appreciate the help. Im definitely on the steep end of the learning curve, haha. Just installed the ro system and getting 22ppm from down from 455 so I’m happy. -take care
No magic amount bro, can’t over water in coco/perlite. Make sure you saturate the medium completely . Ya don’t want dry pockets . Every time you water/feed your flushing all the old ferts and salts from the medium and recharging it so to speak with a fresh batch with all nutes available . Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
I don’t need the basics of coco mansplained to me...and u can 100% water too much At a time or too often aka overwatering in coco. As far as no magic amount, sure there is bro.... the perfect amount of OZs of water to perfectly wet your coco and get the exact amount of run off you want depending on the size of the pot you’re in bro. It’s always best to know EXACTLY how much water you use to water your plants bro... smh
I think you admitted in post #15 that you didn't know much about coco.......but yet you're giving advice.
Not knowing much ain’t saying I don’t know anything..... simple minded are we?.. Better question... is anything I said inaccurate... And me saying that was just a way of saying I don’t grow in coco, I’m out of the conversation.. aside from that he comes along and don’t even give accurate info... lolololol
Technically yes mate. Youre right, It is possible to over water in coco. I've only ever seen it once though. Was recently on here and the dude had his pump turned up full blast for like 45 minutes every 2 hours or something mental like that. You've iether gotta try really hard or just be genuinely quite braindead. I can drop well over 1lb plants in a 4 inch rockwool cube. Essentially the same thing as a solo cup of coco. By running 20litres per hour over the bottom of the cube 24/7 for veg. Then upto around 40 litres per hour for bloom. Profile pic was 22oz done that way. Shes an auto too 20L/h is what.... 480litres per day for a 4 inch cube from start - late veg. Then almost doubled for bloom. This was my first ever plant growing this method. A single auto that I had to cut into 3 to get down the attic hatch. Thats me being modest too mate. Can fill a lot more than 3 buckets with an auto these days