Yo-yo dj 2cent in da hooooouusssee Sorry I’m high. Ha Sososo on with tha flo bro…yo ? I’ll shaddap now n get on Now I’ve had me giggles I had 5tills on my notill then had a break with my back and seed clone mess up I didn’t go up for 3 months I have 600litrrs of what is now just worm castings dry as a bone worms fucked off of course too as it’s dry I asked about remixing here they say use 25% old soil to new to keep some biology and use some waste up Buut upon digging it up I saw it’s so grainy and looks amazing I wonderd my new is a mix of peat and worm poo so what is stopping me using the old soil fully if I re amend it ? I mean it’s pure soft grainy worm castings now no peat lol from my notill growing the worms converted everything before there exit does worm pop loose nutrients when dry like erosion or would it al be there still I was going to do the 25% thing till I dug it alllout saw how loose it all was and amazing it felt and I wondered if I mixed this more like 70%old soil worm poop dry 15%comfrey sheep wool compost 15%peat perlite biobizz bag mix reamend with 1/4 - coots startmix dose neem /kelp /crab shell/mbp/rock dust /gypsum/oyster shell /bio char precharged spray down soak with fish hydrosolate fulvic fulpower aloe liquid kelp coconut water em1 and a bag of beneficial fungi as ya do then add worms back and a cover crop of peas wheat oats and alfalfa I chop and drop this for worms and microbes gives a good grass layer fast no need for straw mulch stubs hold the bacteria and fungi in the roots and peas fix nitrogen at week 3 any problems here or day think that would be ok I can’t see a problems with the old soil castings or a reason I’d need to adjust it with how amazingly loose it is ? I mean all ya really add is peat airation and worm poop ? Rest is amendments then I’d plant them in a starter mix lined hole and let them fill in to the nutrient soils what’s the worst that could happen ? I’m gonna send it off for soil tests if you guys approved the method as ok
The main reason to stay with a lower percent like 25 is because once the worms have worked the soil real hard it doesn’t have the same physical properties. That’s a fancy way of saying it gets muddy and doesn’t drain or breathe well anymore. The more runs you make, the poorer it will perform. There are certainly ways to make it work like adding aeration and some more carbon. Adding rice hulls and bark would work well. If you go with old soil, perlite and peat, go with a third each. You are correct in assuming the castings portion of the soil is loaded with available nutrients.Just gotta make em breathe and drain. Cheers Os
Understood I have 30 bags of peat anyway all new so will do a mixup then and use my old soil as the casting portion Leftover soil will throw onto poo the worm bin to re filter through the bin to use as I need start flower etc just felt wrong not to use it lol
Em1, bokashi and other inoculations could help reproduce new bacteria. Rice wash and other fungal inputs like malted barley (mushroom compost) could help with reintroducing fungal. Get the team back together and you'll be set.
id stick with organic sinse every mix i make regardless of what i put in it the base always is in 1/3rds, i would do 1/3 rd peat 1/3 rd your soil mix as is and is considered compost , 1/3 of air ,i also agree with the wood chips, amends as you feel it needs if you are growing in bags!
Doesn’t notill get better and better till after till though how’s that you see old vets on 25 notill a pulling lbs allover But also say it runs out ? Do I need to keep adding the top to keep it going then it will eventually be like I am now and almost 50cm high lol started out with 100l ended up 200l by the end of 5 grows from slurry top composting adding for worms etc lol do we all remix at some stage then?
Most of those guys are sending soil samples to labs every cycle and topdressing accordingly. Which can be expensive when running multiple beds in multiple rooms. So keeping simple and sticking to what we know here for personal grows after a few runs we check ph and that's about it. Constantly cycling our few inputs simply works. In addition to having good local compost or some good companies crafted compost and a worm bin. Keeping our humus layer right and topdressing every few weeks with the stage appropriate amendments and teas oir soil thrives. The worms and bacteria fungus and many other arthropods and mites carry food sources throughout the soil for us no need to mix unless ph is climbing too high.
@TimJ @Organic sinse @BrassNwood Got soil tests pricey things but fuck I can’t read it well except that it looks majorly freaked to me confused and lost so il post it all here and hope There is 2 samples a is actively growing bed with 6 plants in veg amended with crab neem kelp before test The sample b is in bags atm waiting this before I plant my baby’s in it no amendments since grown except added peat moss
Boron is associated with areas that were under the sea so my assumption is crab meal is said to have boron and ca both are high my next obs is that sulphur can reduce boron and ph both of which is needed but also unlock copper my question is if high is high it locks copper out but on test would it still be visible or is test only for at that ph range ? sulphur is satisfactory so could possibly be raised to lower boron and ph being that cannabis uses it for terps it will get to low soon enough eh ? How is phosphorus blue and review like that’s kelp? Is that bad or good lol as for sodium the small bags of soil ok I can wash em off if needed but also leech other shit the big bed I can’t flush so google says When soils are high in sodium, the goal is to replace the sodium with calcium and then leach the sodium out. There are two possible approaches for doing this: dissolve the limestone (calcium carbonate) or gypsum (calcium sulfate) already present in the soil or, add calcium to the soil. But my ca is so friggin high somehow anyways I can’t do with either?? citric acid bubbles ca down but when to stop I don’t know without a costly test lol also acid sulfuric is released by the elemental sulphur but slowly over time I feel I need it now to plant ? So do I add sulphuric acid it’s self to do what it’s gona do in long term ? Mobodlyem shit and manganease say any manure but chicken shit wil raise my ca like lime and other shit I can’t get without pesticide risk But is raising ca with chicken poop ok if your dropping the ca with sulphuric acid elemental sulphur ? I am guessing btw trying to research lol don’t wanna just be a tool but this is bloody hard shot to learn especially on the phone my pc is dead arrghh think I need a wizard arrghh this is what my heads doing it’s confused how to add anything without effecting ca and sodium as everything seems to be ca and sodium mmmhh next is Peat moss, elemental sulfur, or iron sulfate can be added to the topsoil to acidify the soil. Adding fresh compost to your yard, whether plant compost or worm castings, will dilute the calcium levels by adding bulk to the soil while acidifying over time as the material continues to decompose. So I can add more peat hahahah I’m gona be 100% soon and what about other npk there gona fip out of whack too eh?
You can also use bone and fish meals, rock dust, and chicken manure to source phosphorus. Potassium is also easy to source naturally. You can use banana peel, bat guano, kelp, wood ash, compost, siliceous rocks, and fish meal to deliver K to cannabis plants. so that’s moniter /review kelp and guano etc I saw it said ca is impossible to harm a plant as it’s not directly hot or whatnot like other npks so the effect it harms is only ph? Is the ca ok to be in excess like that if the phs in range ?? I know if like nitrogen or potassium was that high it would be alarming but is the ca only effecting ph in a liming way ? But then I just had alot of bud rot and…. What happens if soil has too much calcium? Excess calcium application to the soil increased blossom-end rot severity. Excess calcium applied to fruit tissue inhibited blossom-end rot with no upper limit. Excess calcium induces blossom-end rot due to effects at the whole plant level. the case is in farm and suggest to plant some leafy root crops which have high oxalate level and immediately the high calcium level in the soil will react with the oxalic groups in the crops and become soluble nature. so this will be good mechanis again that takes time lol Nutrient of the Month – Calcium – “I’m the biggest dude in the dirt” | Turf Dietitian says it’s ok ish to be high other sites say not lol this quote on another site could say ca is high cause other things are low ?? If too much calcium is added to the lawn, or too many other nutrients are depleted, the calcium ratio in your yard can rise higher than it needs to be. High calcium levels mean a deficiency in other nutrients, whether it’s due to the relative calcium ratios, or whether the excess calcium is affecting the soil’s pH and making other nutrients unavailable. adding peat moss and worm poo will reduce ph and ca levels
Iron as ph management ? Seems to hold the comment added earlier about chlorophyll and the yellowing chlorosis . It’s also in high lime sodium areas like I kinda am so I’ve got Nebraska soil lol My god it’s 5am I’ve literally been on this since 16:23 when I got results Iron Iron chlorosis is probably the most widely occurring micronutrient problem in Nebraska. It commonly occurs in trees, shrubs, vines, field crops, flowers, grasses, and vegetables. Field crops most susceptible to iron chlorosis are sorghum, field beans, and soybeans. Corn and alfalfa are more tolerant. However, under high pH soils with excess lime, iron deficiency in corn can reduce yields. Research underway at the West Central Research and Extension Center has shown that some corn hybrids are more tolerant than others. Research results with iron sulfate have shown yield increases for both tolerant and susceptible varieties. Iron in the Plant Iron is a catalyst in the production of chlorophyll, the green pigment in plants. Iron-deficient plants are yellow or “chlorotic” (lack chlorophyll). The veins of the leaves are green, but the tissue between the veins is yellow. Iron chlorosis is commonly associated with high lime soils in western Nebraska and some bottomland soils in central and eastern Nebraska. Soybeans in the Platte and Elkhorn valleys often are chlorotic, which is due, in part, to high pH, excess lime, salts, sodium, compaction, or excess soil water. “If your low in calcium you must be high in somthing els” does that mean if I am high in calcium I must be low in somthing els? It says calcium is the main backbone for other nutrients and it binds to them so is my ca so high cause npk is needed ? Or is it’s still stupid high ?
Just noticed my mg is excessively high so I guess I don’t need epsom salt for some time Lime is out of the question totaly I don’t need ca oyster crab etc I don’t need to add mg to my water any more at all right? it’s the other targets I guess so my p and k are both at environmental risk my high?? Wtf will that mean nitrogen will be too?? That they don’t test lol Hm so npk is daft high so is my ca and sodium my ph is high due to calcium levels Iron is fine so I can’t add that for the ph ? It’s an immediate effect though chemical reaction Elemental sulphur seems good but needs 6months to work Boron is high and reduces with others Monly and manganease and copper the micro nutes are low ? Hmm so if npk is high as fook like too high and ca is boron too am I safe to say I need to add more peat ? I have two ones buffered at 6 with lime and nutes lol other is ph 3 and un buffered but..https://www.imoa.info/download_file...13-2/Plants_need_molybdenum.pdf?m=1424600476& states molybdenum deficency looks like nitrogen def as it kinda is as n isn’t being used without it and peat is common for this I can’t find a way to add this lol at all it’s one I am deficient in and defiantly doesn’t need diluting and study shows a massive yield increase like massive as fook by tons lol exept compost and manure which add npk I don’t think I need right now Because a molybdenum deficiency is often tied to the pH level of the soil, that is one of the first things to address. As the soil becomes more acidic, the molybdenum binds to minerals within it and is less available to the plant. Raising the pH level of the soil will help release the molybdenum and make it available for use. Could it be it wasn’t visible then if the soil test tests for what’s avalible can this be hidden ? I use sea weed a lot and that’s the main source of it so I find it hard to see it’s missing https://plantsheaven.com/how-to-treat-molybdenum-deficiency-in-plants/ hen soil is rich in organic matter, molybdenum and other micronutrients are more abundant in forms that are usable by plants. Compost can be made from grass clippings, leaves, vegetable scraps, paper, and other items So it only needs small amounts so maybe peat moss 70% and a compost?wormpoo?? I know a worm farm that uses only leaves n shit ? Starting to think the soil isn’t really in too bad shape ? It’s actualy got most things just a lil outa whack?
Ok breakthrough lol he is god I love how he talks wow mo so Mo is a bacterial thing in the nitrogen cycle and when you till like I just did to remix and my other bed I moved about too mo fucked off with my herd So basically I need to get the heard back bacterial innoculation and fungal innoculation to fix mo to fix nitrogen and sulphur damage I need peat moss low ph to help my ph and ca levels level out And a bag of worm poo for bacteria and small npk as I have that in crazy levels but mainly micro nutrients but also the micro bugs I know my dude has as I get miles mites n the whole crew from him and mine have all gone atm I’m normally overrun so wish I didn’t have a break n stop watering should have covercroped it
Manganease found in carrot tops There are crops that can grow on seawater and demonstration farms have shown the feasibility. The government of the Netherlands reports a breakthrough in food security as specific varieties of potatoes, carrots, red onions, white cabbage and broccoli appear to thrive if they are irrigated with salt water. So growing carrots on my bed will reduce salt levels ? And green chop and drop puts back the manganease and as salt erodes fast the mulch shouldn’t have salt also yucca does lol and can be used in watering but slow growing as fk And Addition of sulfuric acid to soils increased soil acidity, salinity, DTPA‐extractable Fe, available P (NaHCO3‐extractable), and crop yield. The change in soil pH is the primary cause of increased nutrient availability and thus crop yield. Leaching after acid application is highly beneficial in decreasing salinity during germination and seedling stages and therefore has a direct impact on the yield. The beneficial effects of acid carried over for at least two greenhouse cropping seasons (approximately 4.5 months). Soil salinity and ESP were reduced significantly by both amendments one season after application. Sulfuric acid was generally superior to gypsum in terms of yield increases and soil improvement. This study demonstrated the usefulness of low rates of soil-applied amendments. so again a bacterial action missing as my sulphur is ok map when I thaugh i was under amending as I fell off the watering guide a little I think I was over feeding meals anyway Too many amendments kelp especially adds to salinity over time and I think my npk shows i have enough kelp added lol Soil pH varies by up to half a point over the year.Soil pH tends to be higher (more alkaline) when the soil is cool, and lower (more acidic) in summer, when increased bacterial activity in warmer weather has an acidifying effect on soil. Factor this in when changing soil pH. There is published research with small pH electrodes showing that plants and mycorrhizal fungi can modify the pH of their root environment. Therefore, the bulk soil may be outside the preferred pH range, but the mycorrhizal fungi can surround the roots with a more tolerable pH environment.
I'm no expert when it comes to building a growing medium. But, I'm curious if you added azomite? It's clear you added too much calcium as I believe many folks do. As far as some of your other micro nutrients, I wouldn't be very concerned about them. I'm not sure if you noticed your report states the benchmarks are for arable and lowland grassland systems and not applicable to peat or organic soils. You may find this article helpful. https://www.sustainablemarketfarmin...om of excessive,has locked up these nutrients.
I did see that the guy said it would be fine I do t k ow if that’s a con or not I have no clue No no azimuth but I do as remin rockdust per coots mix or slightly less cause it wants tons and I think once it’s in it’s there years so pointless to Reamend every time with it the ca levels I can’t explain as I’ve even never added lime except day 1 I used oyster shell I add crab meal and I’ve added gypsum but I stops gypsum 2 cycles ago when I know it was too much I feed ro water and do neem kelp meals I don’t know how it’s so high the sodium I can see from meals and I also had a liquid kelp which can be sodium too . The npk is through the roof so I’d say even though I under fed meals as the water schedule said it’s been too much ??? I feel like I could just not add anything for an entire cycle lol I have a plan based on this test but I’ve emailed him too there shut for 2 weeks ffs so can’t even get a reply I can use I’m going nuts basically I need peat to reduce the ph and dilute the npk down to safe and the mg and the ca I need bacterial and fungal innoculation which will release sulphuric acid and the ca binds to the sodium and bubbles off the micros bennies and bugs 2wormcast bags from 2 different farms will do micros gentle npk and sort out the herd of bacterias fungi and arthopods I may need to add manganease as it’s a hard one to find and is needed for everything in soil it’s fucked without Mo comes with bacteria and starts the nitrogen cycle then I should be in balance but the question is how much peat to add to bring them levels down to acceptable
I'm very confused by your post. 1: Did you re-amend your growing medium samples "A" and "B" right before you sent the samples in to be tested? 2: How much peat moss did you add to your mixes prior to having it tested? 3: Did you add crabmeal, gypsum and or any other lime source in between cycles?
Biochar might help leach some of these toxic salts and straighten things out along with microbiology. You want to aim for 5 to 10% of your mix and mix in. In your case it might be beneficial to not charge the biochar and let it set for a few weeks to absorb some of these things.