ok so im building a 230 watt cfl grow cab for a friend. i will be using: sterlite tub metal tape for lid and walls 10 cfls 2700 and 6700k 10 wireable plastic lightbulb sockets with nuetral and positive terminals 2 grounding bars for wiring positive and nuetral for lights and extension cord 10 light socket extensions 1.5 inches long 2 fans mounted on top of the lids with holes drilled near the bottoms on all four sides to pull cold bottom air to the top while pushign hot top air out 2 odor neutralization gel cans 24 party cups 24 seeds 5-1-1 fish emulsion for veg 2-7-3 mix of organic nutrients for flower organic apple cider vinegar for soil phing and baking soda for ph up hydrogen peroxide 3% for soil aeration 2 gallon bucket with airstone/pump for aerating nutrient solutions rooting hormone for clones later liquid electrical tape( very flammable when wet but flame retardent when dry) zip ties pur mineral clear water filter faucet valve for bottom of sterlite for draining as well as tubing 10 qts seedling organic soil 10 qts vermiculite and perlite moisture crystals miracle grow which costs a total of: 177$ first i metal taped the inside of the container and lid but only the upper 2/3rds as the party cups go up that high. then i measured and placed the sockets at equal spacing and height approximately 2.5 times as tall as a party cup. i then drilled holes where the sockets woudl go and zip tied them in place and trimmed excess i then used hi temp hot glue to glue the 2 ground bars and on the narrow end of the box so that one was on top of another with about 4 inches between them and centered. i ran wire from the top terminals which were positve with a brass or gold plating im nto sure, to the top grounding bar for each bulb i did the same for the nuetral and used the bottom ground bar . i then wired the plug with a 2 prong extension cord from a lamp by peeling it apart slightly to give 5 inches of length of each wire. the nuetral side went to the ground bad it has ribs on it the hot or power side goes to the top ground bar or positve and is smooth wire. i then used liquid electrical tape on any and all metal on the wiring circuit including, each light socket terminal + and - and both grounding bars making sure to cover everything completely so no metal is showing at all. i gave it one more coat after it dried for a half hour just to be safe. i then drilled a decent sized hole near but not on the corner of thegrow box so the valve screwed in flush. i applied hot glue to the last 1/8 inch of the thread on the valve and screwed it in til it was tight. a washer on the other end is just as good if not better but the hole was a tight fit. attach small tubing to the valve in the box about 2 inches so it can be tucked into the cornerfor draining. save rest of tubing for later use. a hand pump is used to drain the liquid from the grow box simply water as usual, let run off drain down, attach pump and crank or squeeze until all liquid is removed. ok and now my plan for his grow: start with 24 seeds in party cups with equal parts soil vermiculite and perlite and a few water moist crystals and use 4 red cfls until the cotyledon leaves emerge. after this replace all red with blue and wait until first set of fan leaves grow. add 8 bulbs cfl and after second set of fan leaves grow add 2 more to get the total of 10 cfls. this is 12/12 from seed. water on the first day seeds are planted with h202 in the mixture of nutes and water as well as airstone with 5-1-1 in small amounts. second watering no nutrients. 3rd watering full strength nutrients. at 4th watering or 2 week mark switch to bloom nutrients full strength. fertilize every other water until week 7-8 is reached and allow fan leaves to yellow for remainder of grow. no need to flush as using organics but 3 days before harvest shut off the lights completely and give them 2-3 days of darkness to allow plant to stop storing energy in the form of chlorophyll as well as usign up stored energy to improve taste. im all over the place but adding molasses to ur water will help feed the microbes and break down nutrients. ph with apple cider vinegar and baking soda to 5.9-6.5 with 6.2-6.3 being optimal. weed out any males and replace with new seeds , or remove males brign to a seperate area in their own box grow out the pollen sacks, snip and store in zip lock bags and store in freezer. a paint brush can be dipped in the bag and applied to a plant if u wish to produce seeds and even applied to only on part of a plant if your good. at harvest cut where stem meets dirt and place in a paper bag and store in a dark temperate place until stem feels like it could snap but still has a little bend to it. trim off fan leaves and leave them in freezer, cut buds into smaller pieces and store in a container with orange peels, lemon peels or something that will ad moisture and leave them alone for 8-12 hours. open them for a half hour at a time at least twice a day and reseal. after u have done this for 3-7 days your bud should be ready to smoke. if you feel they are still too moist place them in the paper bag and store for 12 hours or more. what do you think my friend will get from this setup first harvest if all plants are female? im going to be using colloidal silver to make feminized seeds so thats why im asking and are seeds feminized from colloidal silver dangerous to smoke first generation? or is that for giberrilic acid? also can you smoke first gen plants grown from banana flowers from females that arent harvested and left for 3 weeks? im thinking its only gba which causes smoke problems but i want to be sure. im guessing he can get minimum of 4 grams per plant and a max of 10 for a total of 240 grams at most. any thoughs suggestions input rep would be appreciated. here is a vid of the finished setup: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8-teh_lrbI&feature=player_embedded]1455 Video0009 - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxHejrkLRYc&feature=player_embedded]Video0007 - YouTube[/ame]