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cannibus grow bible

Discussion in 'Advanced Growing Techniques' started by SmittyDaDude, Feb 23, 2008.

  1. 1
    © Copyright 2001, Greg Green
    All rights reserved.
    No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
    transmitted by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
    recording, or otherwise, without written permission
    from the author.
    The Cannabis Grow Bible
    4th edition
    Greg Green
    My thanks to my family and friends
    for making this book possible. This
    book is dedicated to growers all over
    the world. I would also like to say
    thank you to the members of
    www.cannabisX.com and
    www.overgrow.com with a really
    big thank you going out to X,
    ~shabang~, The Penguin,
    Kryptonite, Strawdog, Slowhand,
    Chimera, BushyOlderGrower,
    Ralpheme, RealHigh, Clone,
    cannabisX and Vic High.
    This is a book about growing
    cannabis, written by people who
    grow cannabis.
    Picture by BushyOlderGrower.
    Picture by BigIslandBud.
    This book has been written under adverse conditions. In most
    countries it is illegal to own seeds, grow cannabis or use cannabis.
    Maybe it will change for you one day if you make the effort to have
    your voice heard. Until that day comes it is recommended that you
    consult your local authorities to see what is your countries legal status
    with regards to growing cannabis. This book does not want you to
    break the law nor is it here for that purpose. This book is about
    cannabis and how it is grown around the world. Even though the
    contents of this book may show you how to acquire seeds and grow
    very potent plants, you are responsible for your own actions. We would
    like to see you grow cannabis however we would not like to see you
    break the law.
    I would also like to say that many countries have permitted
    medical users to grow cannabis in their home. If they have in your
    country then this book will be of massive benefit to you and your
    The Cannabis Grow Bible is part of a foundation series and is
    a developing project. We listen too and talk with 100's of growers
    every single year. It is with their advice that we can offer you the latest
    updates on growing techniques and strains.
    The Cannabis Grow Bible is an information system. We hope
    that you stick with us and learn more about how to grow BIGGER
    Chapter 1 :
    Chapter 2 :
    - SEEDS
    Chapter 3 :
    Chapter 4 :
    Chapter 5 :
    Chapter 6 :
    -ph CONTROL
    Chapter 7 :
    -PROBLEMS WITH 12/12
    Chapter 8 :
    Chapter 9 :
    Chapter 10 :
    Chapter 11 :
    Chapter 12 :
    Chapter 13 :
    Chapter 14:
    Chapter 15:
    Chapter 16:
    Chapter 17:
    The book is a grow bible. There is still much work that needs
    to be done to provide something that is truly of bible size, but that will
    come in time. The reason why I know this is because cannabis
    suppression has suspended cannabis information gathering over the
    past 60 years. I can safely say that you can find books on Roses that are
    10 times thicker than this book with heaps more information. Roses
    are not illegal in most countries, so scientists are free to explore the
    Rose. Sadly the same can not be said for cannabis......until now.
    The Cannabis Grow Bible (CGB for short) is new. New, in
    that the book is one of a kind. Those who are willing to take serious
    risks in getting you this information have discovered most of what you
    will read and learn here. It is fine and easy for me to compile the book
    and write it. I am not at risk by printing this book, but those who grew
    out hundreds of plants in their basement to provide me with raw data
    on this subject matter are at risk. It is with their help that they have
    been able to help me parse what is real and what is not in the world of
    growing cannabis. They have helped take facts and figures and use
    these to put together a book that would truly help someone grow bigger
    buds. The results have been outstanding and I am very thankful for
    what they have done.
    In this book you will learn a number of things. Probably too
    many to remember all in one go if this is your first time growing. That
    is why I have broken the book into easy step by step portions. The book
    runs from start to finish just like a growing plant would. So you can
    imagine the life cycle of the cannabis plant being the foundation for
    the style and layout of this book. This is what makes the book work. It
    is part essay / part science. Too many books do not cover the science
    very well and others do not cover the practical side very well. Here you
    will meet both worlds as one.
    There are some simple things you need to grow a cannabis
    plant and this book will explain all those things to you, but there are
    other things you need to know to grow a super cannabis plant and this
    is where the book helps too, but it does not cross the two elements over
    which can sometimes confuse the reader. The book will clearly define
    what you can or can not do, but most of the time this has nothing to do
    with your growing experience. It has more to do with how much
    money you are willing to spend, what cannabis strains you have, and
    where you are growing.
    A grower is not limited by their growing experience. A
    grower is limited by law, space, money, information and good
    genetics. We can not help you with money, space and the law, but we
    can help you with growing information and we can tell you where to
    obtain good genetics.
    Don't ever let bad results hamper your new hobby. That is
    part of the process of learning. However, this book will point out some
    mistakes that people have made so you don't have to repeat them and
    learn the hard way.
    Glance over this book and flick through the chapters. Get an
    air of what is going on. Then read it all from start to finish. By the
    time you turn the last page you will probably have a bit of your own
    home grown bud in a pipe. If you can do that then tell people about
    this book. It is our goal to get everyone participating in growing the
    great herb.
    This is not the final book on the subject either. This book has
    been designed in such a way that the book will grow on a yearly basis.
    We will be adding new chapters, new pictures, new methods and new
    theories every year. That is why the cannabis grow bible has become
    the growers handbook of choice.
    We hope that you stick with us and we hope that this book
    will help you to get where you want to go. Happy growing and most of
    all remember to........
    ...HAVE FUN!
    Greg Green.
    The Cannabis Grow Bible
    By Greg Green
    "Since it's inception marijuana is natural, given by God for all living
    creatures to use. Let peace and sanity prevail. Let the herb grow free.
    There is no finer hobby on this planet than tending to a garden that
    gives such delightful rewards." - Greg Green.
    Chapter 1
    This picture is of a young female Skunk#1 plant developing her flower
    cluster. This picture is from Strawdog.
    Cannabis plants have been living on this planet for thousands,
    maybe millions of years, and have been doing so for quite some time
    before man's intervention and after. Cannabis can grow nearly
    everywhere and anywhere as long as the temperature is not too low
    and there is enough sunlight and food present for the plant to flourish.
    In Asia, one can travel to the various regions around Mongolia and
    visit the cannabis plant naturally growing on the hillsides and across
    the vast plains, sometimes covering entire hill faces and spreading
    down onto the valley below. The Cannabis plant is a very adaptable
    plant and can grow both in and outdoors.
    The Cannabis plant has managed to travel across the globe
    without the help of man. The seed has been carried by the wind, in
    bird droppings and has attached itself to animals that can, and do, trek
    over long distances.
    As you can see Mother Nature has distributed this plant in many ways.
    The origins of the Cannabis plant are not entirely clear but
    today it is generally recognized by most biologists and cannabis
    researchers that it began its life somewhere in the Himalayas (Figure
    Figure 1.1 - This is section of the map of Asia. The area in the square
    is where scientists believe cannabis started its Life.
    Today, human intervention has caused the Cannabis plant to
    grow under more controlled conditions and in areas where the plant
    would not have had a previous history. It is estimated that in most
    countries there must be at least 2 - 12 different cannabis strains
    growing wildly.
    Wild Cannabis plants are rare in countries that have tried to
    eliminate the plant by burning fields and conditioning woodlands. In
    certain countries the Cannabis plant has been identified as a dangerous
    drug and has been killed off by human beings and law enforcement
    officials. It is treated as a weed and as a plant that causes social,
    mental and physical problems. None of these reasons for removing the
    plant are well founded but the cull of cannabis has occurred anyhow.
    The Cannabis plant was used for many things other than the
    extraction of THC (to be discussed later). Our ancestors, up until the
    late 1800's early 1900's, used the Cannabis plant to create clothing
    and other materials. The Cannabis plant or ‘hemp' as it is called in the
    textile industry is a very strong material and will withstand large
    amounts of stress applied to it. Hemp material is widely regarded as
    one of the best possible materials for producing fabrics. A pair of
    trousers made from hemp, or a shirt made from hemp will withstand
    the test of time. It is a far more superior material than cotton. This
    should give you some clues as to why the fabrics industry wanted to
    put a stop to the cultivation of marijuana in the late 1800's. Hemp
    fabric products will last longer than cotton fabric products thus the
    buyer buys less over longer periods of time. This is the first instance of
    the Cannabis plant being subjected to ridicule for capitalist gain.
    The Cannabis plant has been subjected to a number of
    stereotypical formats. The first one is that the resin produced by the
    plant is physically addictive. This is not true and I will explain why. In
    psychiatry there is a list of classifications for addictions of all abusive
    substances. It is contained in a paper called - ICD-10 (classifications of
    Mental and Behavioral Disorders) which you can read on-line here.
    Medical doctors are not informed clearly about the use and
    abuse of cannabis. This is because cannabis research is illegal in most
    countries or if research is allowed most of the results are suppressed.
    The only way a medical doctor can help a person with a
    cannabis problem is by having some experience with people who have
    had cannabis problems in the past. There are no special books to turn
    too. There are no references which explain clearly what to do or IF
    cannabis is physically addictive. There are no pills for cannabis
    addiction (there are for alcoholism).
    The only place a doctor can go is to the archives of what other
    countries have said about the drug and its abuse. As a doctor, one
    would maybe try Holland and read up on some of the material there, or
    Belgium or Switzerland. There can be found medical research papers
    that relate to cannabis dependence and all of them say the same thing.
    (A) Can it be abused? YES. (B) Can it be addictive? YES. (C) Is
    cannabis abuse or use life threatening? NO, but mental side effects
    such as depression can be, but only a small percentage of addicts (NOT
    USERS, BUT ADDICTS) go through this. (D) Has anyone ever died of
    cannabis use? ONLY 1 PERSON in the history of cannabis has died
    from its use, but read on. Bruce Lee, the martial arts expert died after
    taking cannabis, but the death certificate was later changed too 'death
    by misadventure' because of another medical herb that he took which
    he did not know he was allergic too. So the correct answer is 0 people
    have died from using cannabis. (E) How do you treat cannabis
    addiction? Psychotherapy is the only answer.
    In fact there are absolutely no reasons for the prohibition of
    cannabis, other than:
    1) It is hard to tell if someone is under the influence of cannabis.
    Driving/working with machinery is a problem here.
    2) People might smoke too much and become a little lazy.
    3) Many governments have prohibited it for over 70 years and it would
    seem very stupid if they told everyone that they where wrong about it.
    Now let us look at these points for a moment.
    1) Yes it is hard to tell and make no mistake - if you drive after
    smoking cannabis then you are just as stupid as if you where driving
    under the influence of alcohol. It is never advised to use cannabis and
    then perform a procedure, like driving, which requires your total
    attention. As of yet there is no on the spot breathalyzer test for
    cannabis use, but there are tests to determine if someone has used
    cannabis recently, in the last few hours, in the last few days, weeks or
    months. However, alcohol is not banned in a lot of countries but
    cannabis is.
    2) It happens. Some people do smoke too much pot and they become
    docile to the point where they just want to watch television and eat.
    However, if there is no money about, and the person needs to survive
    or live somehow, you will soon find that person can restore their life
    back to the way it was before they started their cannabis binge by
    simply - Not smoking for a few days. A few days of not smoking is all
    it takes to rid cannabis of any effects it has had on the human body.
    There may be residual cannabinoids left in the system but this does not
    pose any problems and will soon wear away.
    This is not that easy with alcohol or heroin user. They will
    have to go through a long period of detoxification before they can
    resume a normal life. A cannabis user does not have to go through the
    detoxification period because there simply is none. Not only does the
    alcohol user have to spend a few days getting it out of his/her system
    but they will also have to deal with the withdrawal symptoms. This can
    last for months. With cannabis, it is simply, stop smoking cannabis
    and resume operations as normal. (Note: Pharmaceutical firms would
    love to sell a pill to cure cannabis addiction, but as of yet can not. They
    can not prove that their pill does anything because there are no
    cannabis withdrawal systems to observe. Thus the pill would be
    deemed a fraudulent product if put on the market.) Also many
    homeless people's living standards in most cases are attributed to
    alcohol dependence/addiction and rarely, IF ever, is their low living
    standard attributed to cannabis dependence. Cannabis dependence is
    psychological. Treatment of cannabis addiction is done by psychiatrists
    and psychologists and GP's. Heroin and alcohol is treated by
    psychiatrists, psychologists, GP's and doctors of internal medicine for
    the somatic systems of addiction.
    3) This is a major problem because the government may have to set
    people free from prison and radically change their justice department's
    stance on cannabis which means that jobs will be lost and revenues
    (billions of this - $$$) will be lost if cannabis was decriminalized.
    Cannabis prohibition is a booming industry that creates jobs and
    capital. However if cannabis was decriminalized then these lost profits
    could be derived from a new cannabis industry.
    Probably one of the best sites for medical information is
    www.cannabisx.com, www.lycaeum.org, or www.overgrow.com
    One other thing to mention is that street cannabis may
    contain other added drugs. In most clinical cases, a person who
    complains about cannabis addiction and shows physical signs of
    addiction is not actually addicted to cannabis. They are addicted to the
    other drug substances that the supplier has added to his produce to
    make it stronger. 100% home grown clean cannabis does not contain
    physical additive properties. People who add other drugs to cannabis
    are not doing the cannabis community a favor. This is a good reason to
    grow your own pot.
    There are many strains or versions of the Cannabis plant alive
    today. Most strains are the result of human intervention and these are
    the types you will most likely come across or even smoke. Breeders try
    to produce strains that are tasty, smell good and give the user different
    types of highs. These are the strains that are best looked out for
    because you can be guaranteed that the plant has got a ‘grow history'
    behind it and that the seller of the seeds will know a good bit about the
    plant and how it ‘works'.
    This ends our brief look at the history of Cannabis. There is
    much more to it than just this and many other books that discuss the
    legal aspects of Marijuana go into great detail about the history of
    Marijuana. In fact the history of Marijuana is so interesting and deep
    that a dozen chapters here would not cover the vastness of this plant's
    Whenever we hear the word Cannabis we think of the famous
    leaf shape like the one on this book's cover. Many magazines show
    joints being rolled thick with leaves. Leaves are in fact the lesser
    potent part of the plant next to the stem and the roots. The cannabis
    plant can be divided into 6 main sections (Fig 1.2.). Bud, Stem,
    Branches, Nodes, Leaves, and Main Cola.
    Fig 1.2 - This is a picture by BigIslandBud. Each of the parts of the
    plant have been Indicated. The 3 horizontal lines on the right show 3
    Node levels of branching and where they occur.
    The next thing to know is that plants have a gender. The
    genders are male and female and sometimes a mix gender called the
    hermaphrodite condition. Now listen to this closely.
    1) The male plant is not used for smoking because it contains low
    levels of THC and does not taste very good, but it can get you high.
    2) The female plant when pollinated does produce THC but also
    produces seeds which prevent larger quantities of bud from being
    3) A non-pollinated female (sinsemilla) plant will produce more
    flowering buds with no seeds and will produce more quantities of THC
    than the male plant or a seeded female plant. The buds produce resin,
    which contain THC, and can drip down onto the leaves. When she is
    fully mature she should produce a very pleasing high depending on the
    grow method, the strain of plant and when it is harvested.
    To put it plainly, males can be smoked but are not very good
    and are considered vastly inferior to the female plant. The female plant
    when pollinated produces seeds and can be smoked but is vastly
    inferior to a non-pollinated female plant (sinsemilla) that produces
    more bud. It should be the goal of every Cannabis user to grow nonpollinated
    female plants with big buds. The goal of a cannabis breeder
    is too produce quality seeds and plants. How both these things are done
    is what this book will help you to understand.
    At the end of the Cannabis plant's life cycle the plant is
    harvested. This means one of two things. The plant can be completely
    uprooted and treated (called a complete harvest) or the plant can be
    harvested a small bit and used again for a second flowering term (this
    is called re-veging (Figure 1..3) and re-flowering).
    Figure 1.3 - A plant that is being re-veged. Picture by Vic High.
    When Cannabis is harvested the harvester concentrates on the
    best part of the plant, namely the top cola and the buds. The leaves are
    the last thing to worry about and the stem and roots are normally
    thrown away. There are many ways to harvest a plant and we will
    explain it in detail, later. Once the grower has selected the parts they
    want, they then set about curing their harvest (Figure 1.4). Curing
    your harvest is important. It helps one to produce a finer product. After
    the curing has been done the grower can then choose how he/she
    wants to finally produce their smokable mix (figure 1.5). They can use
    the cured plant as it is and smoke it dry or they can produce hash or
    oils from the curing process.
    Figure 1.4 - This is a picture of some cured buds.
    Figure 1.5 - This is the result of a good indoor harvest.
    Both Pictures by Kryptonite.
    Figure 1.6 - This is a picture of an indoor garden from Kryptonite.
    The next thing one should know about are the different types
    of Cannabis species. There are 3 main species of Cannabis plants.
    These are Sativa, Indica and Ruderalis. Each species has its own group
    of strains which are many. Each species has different characteristics
    and each strain of each species has its own special identity.
    Figure 1.7 - Picture of Sativa leaf by Slowhand.
    Height - Can grow tall. Averages anywhere between, 4 - 15 feet.
    Nodes - Has long internodes between branches, 3 inches to 6.
    Leaf - Pointy leaves with no markings or patterns.
    Figure 1.8 - Indica Leaf picture by Kryptonite.
    Height - Small plants. Averages anywhere between 6 inches - 4 feet.
    Nodes - Short internodes between branches. 3 inches and less.
    Leaf - Rounded leaves with marble like patterns.
    Figure 1.9 - This is a picture of some Ruderalis / Indica hybrids from
    Sensi Seeds. www.sensiseeds.com
    Height - Small plants. Averages anywhere between 6 inches and 4 feet.
    Nodes - very short internodes with much branching.
    Leaf - Small and thick.
    Cannabis plants produce psychoactive ingredients called
    cannabinoids. The main ingredient of the cannabinoids that gives the
    high effect is called - delta 9 THC. All strains vary in THC levels that
    come in different percentages. Some plants may contain 100% THC
    but the "levels" of THC may be low. Other plants have only 60% THC,
    but the "levels" of THC may be very high. A good potent plant will
    have both levels and quantities very high. Cannabis plants also
    produce something called - delta 8 THC. This ingredient is in low
    levels but does contribute to the high. When we mention THC levels,
    we are talking about both delta 8 and 9 THC.
    There are also other ingredients that add to the high such as
    CBD, CBN, THCV, CBDV, CDC and CBL, but are only very minor
    compared to THC.
    The difference between THC levels and THC quantities is that
    THC levels are genetic. They are not under the influence of the
    grower. THC quantities on the other hand are. This is to do with bud
    mass and how much resin can be generated in that bud mass.
    Some bud may only contain 20% THC, with a THC level of 5.
    The same plant grown under better conditions and light will produce
    70% THC, with a THC level of 5. The ‘5' is genetic. The quantities of
    20% and 70% are under the grower's control.
    When examining a strain in a seed-bank catalogue one is
    guided to check for the THC levels of that plant to understand how
    potent the plant is. Many seed sellers and breeders measure their
    plants THC levels and give accounts on how much THC their plants
    have. Of course many breeders like to exaggerate on how much THC
    their plants produce, but some do not. If you wish to know more about
    THC levels it is best to consult your seed-bank or breeder for details.
    No complete study of cannabinoids has been made public
    since this book's publication. This is because cross breeding produces
    so many different results that it is hard to keep track on what is
    happening. Some 'old timer' strains are still around and have been
    tested. This information can be obtained from the larger seed
    production companies in Holland. THC testing is also an expensive
    process that requires heavy amounts of research.
    The other interesting factor is that some plants do not produce
    any THC at all. These plants have been genetically engineered (GM)
    to produce very low levels of THC and are mainly used by farmers in
    some countries who have permission to grow cannabis for hemp
    production ONLY. It is best to keep away from these seeds and strains.
    They will not get you high. There is project called the PMP (potency
    monitoring project) that is carried out by some government-funded
    agencies, but the results are questionable.
    The other thing that may interest you is that Cannabis can be
    cured in various forms and one of these popular forms is HASHISH
    (Figure 1.10).
    Figure 1.10 - This is some raw hash extraction by Kryptonite. This
    hash is pure without any additives.
    Hashish can also be graded and one of the most famous
    grades of Hashish is called Zero Zero. Hashish making (Figure 1.11)
    can improve (but sometimes degrade) the overall potency of marijuana.
    The grades of Hashish are as follows. 00(zero zero), 0, 1, 2, 3. Zero
    Zero is by far the most purest form of Hashish on the market today and
    comes from plants that have high levels of THC in conjunction with a
    good Hash making technique. Sometimes the technique may be good
    but the levels of THC in the plant are low. This may produce a grade
    such as a 2 or a 3.
    It is wise to note that the Potency of a plant depends on a
    number of factors. It should be the goal of every grower to produce a
    potent, high grade, product. Zero Zero is also a 'western' concept
    derived from hash types that come from Morocco.
    Figure 1.11 - This picture shows some hash being made. The powderlike
    substance is the collection of trichomes from the plant. This
    powder will eventually be solidified to make a bar of hash.
    Photograph by Chimera.
    Female plants produce resin glands (Figure 1.12 and 1.14).
    Some of these glands may have lots of resin but are not very potent.
    Other plants may have little resin but are very potent. Optimal growth
    gives rise to a plant that has lots of resin and is very potent. Resin
    glands are produced all over the female flowers and new leaves. They
    can be seen clearly with the use of a magnifying aid. These resin
    glands are correctly called Trichomes.
    Figure 1.12 - This picture is a macro shot of some trichomes as they
    look on the plant. Notice the ball shaped tips. These contain
    cannabinoids. Photograph by Joop Jumas.
    Figure 1.13 - This flowering female is covered in Trichomes. That is
    what gives this bud her frosty look. Picture by Chimera.
    Resin can be rubbed off the bud using the fingers and then
    rolled into the palms to create small balls of hand rubbed hashish. It is
    within these glands that one is to find the main concentration of
    produced cannabinoids and THC. When a plant is in full flowering the
    resin gland can explode or break dropping resin down onto the leaves
    below. This can also give the leaves their shiny frosty potent look
    during flowering. Towards the bottom of the plant are located the fan
    leaves. These leaves are generally large and collect most of the light
    for plant growth. Because these leaves are far away from the top of the
    plant, which produce the most amount of resin glands and buds, they
    collect the least amount of resin and are not very potent. It is best to
    consider separating these fan leaves from the rest of the plant after
    harvest because these leaves will not give you the best quality high.
    Figure 1.14 - Trichomes Photograph by Joop Jumas.
    We should now have an idea as to what we are looking for in
    terms of a good quality smoke. We are looking for non-pollinated
    female plants that have flowered, producing lots of buds with resin
    glands that contain high levels and amounts of THC. We are also
    looking for plants that have been well cured and processed in a way
    that allows us to sample the full flavor, smell and taste of the plant.
    One must also be aware that some plants are very potent and can
    literally knock one's socks off. This is where taste comes into play.
    Some people like plants that give a head high but do not cause one to
    fall asleep. Other people like plants that give a down effect and cause
    the body to become less responsive to stimuli. The body down is called
    ‘The couch-lock effect'. The head high is simply called ‘The head
    Now another thing must be considered here. Remember that
    we talked about Species of Cannabis - Sativa, Indica and Rudereralis?
    Well Rudereralis is hardly used much today. Sativa and Indica are
    extremely common and these 2 species will be the main focus of this
    book. Also both species have two different forms of high. The high
    type of each species can also be controlled depending on the time at
    which you harvest. Not only this but the species can be crossed to
    produce Indica/Sativa type plants or Sativa/Indica type plants. This
    may sound all very confusing at first, but it is in fact all quite simple.
    We will explain more about this in our next chapter.
    Chapter 2
    Figure 2.1 - Some cannabis seeds by Kryptonite.
    At the moment there are approximately 450 seed varieties of
    Cannabis on the market today. Out of the 450 seed varieties, 200 are
    worth looking at and out of the 200 varieties about 50 or so are
    outstanding. Each strain is either a pure species type (taking 2 plants
    of the same species and crossing them) or a crossbreed of two or more
    species (taking 2 plants from different species and crossing them).
    Out of the 450 seed varieties we said that 200 where good.
    This leaves 250 left. Those 250 are usually very unstable crossbreed
    strains. These complete hybrids plants are mixed so much that they
    can not be classified at either Sativa or Indica. They are classified in a
    different way and we will explain this in the strain format table below.
    Most hybrids do not last long on the market and are primarily
    found only among breeders who are experimenting with their plant's
    genetics. Seed producers tend to only produce the following strain
    categories. Some Hybrids can be excellent though!
    PURE SATIVA (This is a pure species)
    SATIVA (This is a mostly Sativa species with some Indica)
    PURE INDICA (This is a pure species)
    INDICA (This is a mostly Indica species with some Sativa)
    INDICA/SATIVA (This is a 50/50 cross between a Sativa and an
    Indica species)
    They also produce:
    RUDERALIS (This is a pure species)
    And some other Ruderalis mixes. However Ruderalis is a
    problematic plant. It does not produce large quantities of THC, nor
    does it flower like the other varieties. Ruderalis is considered substandard
    by most growers because it flowers according to age and does
    not flower according to the photoperiod. We will explain what the
    photoperiod is in a moment.
    Now remember that we said an Indica/Sativa cross would
    produce two different highs. Well we lied a little. If they are both
    50%/50% crosses then the high will be a 50%/50% mix. Indica/Sativa
    and Sativa/Indica is really the same thing.
    Pure Sativa is a total ‘Head High'. Pure Indica is a total ‘Body
    Stone/couch-lock'. A 50/50 cross will give a 50% ‘Head high' and a
    50% ‘Body Stone'. If an Indica plant is crossed slightly with a Sativa
    plant it will give a 60% ‘Body Stone' and a 40%‘Head High'. A Sativa
    plant that is crossed slightly with an Indica plant will give a 60%
    ‘Head High' and a 40% ‘Body Stone'. The 60/40 ratio is most
    common but some breeders can change that ratio. When choosing a
    seed, check to see if it is pure or if it has a ratio. Most seed sellers will
    have this listed along with their seed type. So when we look at some
    strains that are crossbreeds we must understand which species the
    plants are leaning towards. Along with the cross you can expect that
    the plant will look different. Some Sativa plants may be shorter
    because of the Indica breeding in them and some Indica plants may be
    taller because of the Sativa breeding in them. This is okay though
    because later on we will find that as a grower we have control over
    how a plant will look and grow. As a grower we can influence height
    and plant features. We can also harvest the plant in such a way that we
    can produce a different high type. The later you harvest the plant the
    more you will help produce a couch-lock effect. Harvesting just before
    peak will induce a cerebral high. If you are working with strains that
    are for either cerebral or couch-lock highs then you can harvest early
    or later and help produce some of these ‘high type' properties.
    Figure 2.2 - This is a wonderful harvest picture by GIYO.
    Hopefully with the knowledge you have been given so far you
    are equipped to choose a plant that fits your needs in terms of height,
    potency and high type. There is no point trying to grow an 8-foot
    Sativa Bush indoors if you do not have the space for it. 2 foot Indica
    plants outdoors may not survive if other plants compete with it for
    light. As a rule we can always shorten the plants lengths through
    pruning, but rarely can we double the plants height if the strain's genes
    only allow the strain to grow 2 or 3 feet.
    Figure 2.3 - A small grow room by Mr.Zog.
    The best way to get seeds is from a friend who has grown a
    type of plant that you enjoyed to smoke. This, by far, is the best way
    because, (1) You will get the seeds for free and (2) you know what the
    high type will be because you have already tasted it.
    The next best way is the Internet. The Internet is full of seedbanks
    that wish to sell you seeds, but there are a few problems that you
    may encounter. The first problem is that some of these seed-banks will
    rip you off. The second is that some of these seed-banks do not ship
    worldwide. The third is that some of these seed-banks misrepresent
    their stock. The fourth is that seeds can be very expensive. Some seedbanks
    sell seeds anywhere between (US Dollars = $, UK Sterling = £)
    $80/£70 and $300/£290 for 10 - 16 seeds. There are rip-off artists out
    there, but then again some of these seeds are worth the money because
    the strain is excellent in vigor and production. So how do we choose
    our seed-bank and how do we really know what seeds to pick?
    As a rule if you find a classy seed-bank then you will find
    classy breeders using that seed-bank to sell their seeds. If you find a
    seed-bank then the first thing you should do is to examine what people
    have to say about that seed-bank. The best way to find this out is to
    check one of the more popular websites on the net like
    www.cannabisx.com or www.yahooka.com. Some web sites give
    listings and ratings on seed-banks.
    You can also do a search on the net using a search engine like
    AltaVista or Yahoo. Find a good web site that is used by a number of
    people and not a web site that is used by one person. A community of
    users is a good place to go for message board forums and chat. Also
    check to see that the site has a registered URL, like a .com site. If they
    use a free web site service then consider staying clear of it because it
    can disappear without trace overnight. Once you have found a web site
    then run a search on 'seeds'. A listing may appear of all known seedbanks
    that deal over the Internet. It is best then to check out the
    reviews on each seed-bank by the public. A good one is
    www.yahooka.com or www.cannabisx.com. This gives the latest
    update on each seed-bank and gives them a review out of 5. Find the
    URL of each seed-bank and check out the prices. Some seed-banks do
    deals on seeds and you will find that prices do change from bank to
    bank. The next thing you do before buying anything is to send the web
    master an E-mail. Ask him/her about their services, what seeds you
    like, how they delivers, security arrangement, and if they can deliver to
    your country. In some countries seeds are legal. In others they are not.
    Wait until they give you a reply. If you do not get a reply then do not
    use that seed-bank. These people are salesmen and should
    communicate with you and answer all your questions. Also ask how
    the money should be sent and ask about postage and packaging. Most
    seed-banks sell their seeds in batches of 10 - 20. This means that you
    will get 10 - 20 seeds in the post. Anything can happen. A misplaced
    foot in the postal office can kill the seeds, making them not viable.
    Good seed-banks provide good packaging. Ask about it.
    If your seeds do not arrive send an E-mail to the seed-bank
    and ask them what happened. If they do NOT reply or if your seeds are
    lost write them a complaint and then post that complaint in one of the
    web boards like yahooka.com. The more people complain the better the
    chances of indicating seed-banks that are ripping people off. Also if
    you get your seeds in good condition then it is always wise to post a
    good review of that seed-bank. This will also improve your
    communication with that seed-bank the next time you buy seeds (you
    may get discounts). If you do not have access to the web then you will
    have to get addresses for these seed-banks and send them a letter
    asking for further information. Some seed-banks have even advertised
    in the back of this book.
    Okay, so now you have an idea of what type of plant you want
    and the seed-bank that you are going to use. The next step is too check
    if the seeds are for indoor or outdoor use. There is a saying that all
    cannabis seeds can be grown indoors and outdoor. This is true, but that
    is not what the breeder had intended. If the breeder had created a plant
    that does well indoors then it is suggested that you only grow these
    seeds indoors. If you grow outdoors and the plant does not produce
    that well, then you know that you should have followed the breeder's
    advice. Next time take that advice. There is nothing stopping you from
    experimenting, and some growers have produced excellent results by
    putting outdoor seeds indoors or putting indoor seeds outdoors, but it is
    best if you follow the advice you are given, especially if you are new to
    Figure 2.4 - Outdoor Sativa.
    Figure 2.5 - Indoor Sativa.
    Both of these pictures, figure 2.4 and 2.5, show a mostly
    Sativa strain growing outdoors and indoors. As you can see this would
    probably be labeled an outdoor strain because of its size. The grower,
    mullummadman, has been able to grow it both ways though.
    You may also find that a number of similar strains have been
    produced by different breeders. When you look at the seed-bank list
    you may see 1 - 4 types of the same plant. What is going on here you
    ask? Well, let us take Skunk#1 for example. Skunk#1 is a mostly
    Sativa plant but there are about 7 breeders who have provided a certain
    seed-bank with these seeds. Each seed breeder tries to develop the best
    plant possible for that strain type. You will find that some breeders are
    good and others are not so good. Make sure that you check with the
    seed-bank to see which breeder's strains are the best. Always choose
    the best. The reason for choosing the best is that later you can
    PRODUCE YOUR OWN SEED from that strain! Welcome to the
    wonderful world of Marijuana growing.
    Search for Serious Seeds and Paradise Seeds on the internet. They are
    both Dutch seed companies.
    The next thing to look for is flowering times. Each strain is a
    bit different on flowering times. In a nutshell flowering is the next
    cycle after your plant shows its sex. There are 3 main stages in plant
    growth. Germination, Vegetative growth and Flowering. It is towards
    the last days of flowering that you should begin your harvest. If the
    seed-bank says, Skunk#1 Flowering time: 7-9 weeks then you should
    be able to know roughly when your plant will be ready for harvest (in
    this case it will 7 - 9 weeks from the time your plant starts to flower).
    Some plants have shorter flowering times and others have
    longer. This is a guide to help you understand how long it will take,
    after vegetative growth is complete, before you will have a chance to
    savior your plant's delights. The last piece of advice is this. Always
    consult someone about your strain type. Who knows, they may be able
    to recommend something better.... Or maybe even have a private seed
    stash of their own.
    Figure 2.6 - This is some Skunk#1 by Strawdog.
    Figure 2.7 - Seeds enough to grow a 1000 plants! Picture by
    Figure 2.8 - This is another great picture of some female bud by
    This is important to bear in mind before you grow your weed.
    Have you got the time to take care of your plants? Are you going to be
    taking long holidays? Have you got someone you trust to take care of
    your plants? And if you do how secure is your grow area? How do the
    people you live with feel about this? Can you hide the smell when the
    plants start to flower? Are you prepared to pay money on lights and
    other grow items? Are you prepared to pay the costs of a higher
    electricity bill? Are people going to see your grow room? Are people
    going to walk past your grow site outdoors? Is the meter man going to
    see your grow room? Is the gas man going to see your grow room? Are
    you sure that you really want to do this?
    Figure 2.9 - This is an example of how some outdoor plants can get
    really big and tall. Sometimes they can be hard to hide. Picture by
    If you are negative on any of these points above then I suggest
    that you resolve those issues before you move on.
    The next thing I am going to tell you is the most important
    thing you will ever hear when growing marijuana. People have lived
    their whole lives growing cannabis and have never had an encounter
    with the law. It is so simple, but very hard to do. If you can do it then
    you are halfway to being an expert grower. Are you ready for it?
    If you do this then you will never have a problem other than
    someone accidentally walking into your grow area. NEVER EVER
    TELL ANYONE ANYTHING, EVER. If you can do this then you will
    have more security than a castle equipped with guard-dogs henchmen
    and the works. Loose lips cause 99.9% of all security related issues
    being breached. 00.1% is caused because you did not take the time out
    to conceal your area well enough. Loose lips sink ships.
    If you plan to share your crop with your friends then do it by
    another means, like - ‘Hey guys look what I just bought'. The only
    people who should know that you grow are the people who live with
    you. If your husband/wife has loose lips, then maybe you should
    consider guerrilla growing outdoors (explained later.) Other than that,
    these are the most important factors you need to consider. Never grow
    at home if other people are not going to know about it. This is bad and
    always causes problems in the end. So what does that say? Growing on
    your own is the best way. Growing with other people is a problem
    unless you know they are okay with it. You will have to figure some of
    these things out for yourself.
    The next factor is bugs and pests. Always, always have a
    bottle of pesticide that kills SPIDER MITES. Spider Mites can reduce
    your plants to garbage within a couple of days.
    OUTSIDE. People who have done this have managed to kill nearly
    every plant in their house because they brought a plant indoors that
    had spider mites. Marijuana plants are very vulnerable to mite attacks
    because the spider mites love to suck marijuana plants dry. They are
    tiny, about half the size of this dot --->> . I can not stress how
    important this is. We will talk more about pests later.
    The next thing we will talk about is what we expect our seeds
    to do before they become full flowering plants.
    Figure 2.10 - This is example of what pest damage can do to your
    crop. Notice how the leaf has been eaten away. Picture by Slowhand.
    Figure 2.11 - Another wonderful bud shot from Chimera.
    We said before that a plant would grow in three main stages.
    Germination, Vegetative growth and flowering. Plants actually grow
    in 6 stages. Here is the life cycle of the cannabis plant.
    This is the initial stage of growth and occurs when your
    seed's embryo cracks open and the seedling produces a root. This root
    fixes itself into the soil and pushes the newborn seeding up and over
    the soil surface. Following surface contact two embryonic leaves open
    outwards to receive sunlight, pushing the empty seed shell away from
    the seedling. It takes anywhere between 12 hours to 3 weeks for seeds
    to germinate. Once the plant has reached this stage it goes into the
    seedling stage.
    Figure 2.12 - This is a great picture of an
    Indica seedling by Strawdog.
    Seedling Stage:
    After the first pair of embryonic leaves are receiving light
    (Figure 2.12), the plant will begin to produce another small set of new
    leaves. These leaves are different from the last and may have some
    Marijuana characteristics such as the three-rounded finger shaped
    points. As the seedling grows, more of these leaves are formed and
    bush upwards along with a stem. Some stems are very weak at this
    stage and need the support of a small thin wooden stake tied to the
    seedling with some fine thread. The seedling stage can last between 1
    and 3 weeks. At the end of the seedling stage your plant will have
    maybe 4 - 8 new leaves. Some of the old bottom leaves may drop off.
    Figure 2.13 - Here is a picture of a cannabis plant in vegetative
    growth. This picture is from GIYO.
    Vegetative Growth:
    The plant now begins to grow at the rate which its leaves can
    produce energy. At this stage the plant needs all the light and food it
    can get. It will continue to grow upwards producing new leaves as it
    moves along (Figure 2.13). It will also produce a thicker stem with
    thicker branches and with more fingers on the leaves. It will eventually
    start to show its sex. When it does this it is time for the plant's preflowering
    stage. It can take anywhere between 1 and 5 months for the
    plant to hit this next stage.
    At this stage the plant slows down in developing its height
    and starts to produce more branches and nodes. The plant fills out in
    the pre-flowering stage. During this phase of the plant cycle your plant
    will start to show a calyx which appears where the branches meet the
    stem (nodes). Pre-flowering can take anywhere between 1 day to 2
    weeks. (See last page of this book for pre-flowering/calyx illustration)
    Figure 2.14 - This is a great picture of a flowering plant. It should be
    indicated here that this plant is a female. Picture by GIYO.
    During this stage the plant continues to fill out. The plant will show its
    sex clearly. The male plant produces little balls that are clustered
    together like grapes. The female plant produces little white/cream
    pistils that look like hairs coming out of a pod. Each of the plants will
    continue to fill out more and their flowers will continue to grow. It can
    take anywhere between 4 to 16 weeks for the plant to fully develop its
    flowers (Figure 2.14). During this time the male's pollen sacks would
    have burst spreading pollen to the female flowers.
    Figure 2.15 - Seeded bud picture
    by Shecky Greene.
    The female plant will produce seeds at this point if she has received
    viable pollen from a male plant. The seeds grow within the female bud
    and can take anywhere between 2 weeks to 16 weeks, to grow to full
    maturity. The female pistils may change color before finally bursting
    the seedpods, sending them to the soil below. (Breeders like to collect
    their seeds before the seedpods burst.)
    These are the six stages of the life cycle of a cannabis plant. It
    is important to know that if the males are separated from the females
    and killed off then the females will not become pollinated. Let us go
    back a step and describe what happens here.
    Figure 2.16 - This is some bud by Giyo. The picture is upside down
    because it is freshly harvested bud strung up.
    During this stage the plant continues to fill out. The plant will
    show its sex more clearly. The female plant produces little
    creamy/white pistils. The plant will continue to fill out more and its
    flowers will continue to grow. It can take anywhere between 4 and 16
    weeks for the plants to fully develop. During this time though there are
    no males to pollinate the female plants. The buds will grow larger and
    develop more resin glands. Resin may drop down onto the leaves and
    the plant becomes very sticky. The pistils on the buds begin to get
    thicker and cluster into balls. The reason for the high increase in bud
    growth is that the female plant is trying her best to attract male pollen.
    Towards the last days of flowering the pistils will change color
    Indicating that the plant is ready for harvest.
    Given the above data it can take anywhere between 10 weeks
    and 36 weeks for a plant to grow to maturity. That is, again, anywhere
    between 2.5 months to 9 months. The most common grow time is 3 to
    4 months. All this is dependent on the strain that you choose. Pure
    Sativa can run anywhere into the 6 - 9 month bracket. Indica can
    flower in 6 weeks. As you can image a Sativa/Indica plant will fall into
    the 2 - 4 month flowering period.
    Figure 2.17 - Seeded bud picture by Shecky Greene.
    Figure 2.18 - Great bushy plant picture by X3n0.
    Chapter 3
    What is propagation?
    Propagation: 1 The action of breeding or multiplying by natural
    processes; procreation, generation, reproduction. 2 The action of
    spreading an idea, practice, etc., from place to place. 3 Increase in
    amount or extent; enlargement; extension in space or time.
    Propagation is 'The Grow'. However most people treat
    propagation as the actual events occurring between the planting of the
    seed and the transplant of that seedling to the main grow environment.
    Here we will treat propagation as the entire process of growing from
    seed to harvest. Propagation also includes the logistics of the grow.
    So what are you going to do? Are you going to buy a batch of
    10 seeds and grow them all in one go? Are you going to then kill the
    males and just smoke the females? Are you going to keep the males
    and produce more seeds from the females? How many seeds can a
    female plant produce? Should I plant my 10 seeds in one go? What
    should I do to guarantee that all my seeds will grow? These are the
    questions that you should be asking before you begin to grow and this
    is where propagation logistics comes into play. The answers depend
    largely on the size of your grow area and what your budget is.
    Let's say we have about $200/£180 to spend on seeds. We can
    buy an expensive strain like a G13 cross and then we can grow the
    G13 and produce more seeds from it. We can get anything between
    100 and 2000 seeds depending on plant size and grow conditions. If
    we grow this season for 4 months and at the end produce a lot of seeds
    then we may never need to buy seeds for this strain again.
    There is something else we can do called - CLONING.
    Figure 3.1 - Here are some clones by Slowhand.
    This is a technique whereby we can grow a number of plants
    and select a good female. Then we can take cuttings from that female
    mother plant and grow these cuttings into new plants. Clones always
    keep the same sex and vigor of the mother plant. It is also possible to
    create a garden of plants that will last for decades through cloning
    from a single female mother plant. Cloning is discussed in detail in a
    later chapter
    For the new grower it is advised that you buy 10 seeds and
    only germinate 3 the first time followed by another 3 the following
    week followed by the last 4 in two weeks after that. This will allow you
    some degree of experimentation as you may fail on your first attempt
    to germinate the seeds because of lack of any previous cannabis
    growing experience.
    For people who have germinated seeds once before in the
    past, it is advised that you germinate 5 followed by another 5 the next
    week. If you are a long time grower with a good amount of growing
    experience then you can germinate all 10 in one go. Again you do not
    have to do it this way. It just helps reduce the risk of failing all the
    seeds because of bad germination methods.
    During your plants growth you may decide that you want to
    pollinate ONLY ONE of your females. This means that you need to
    have two grow areas. One for growing all your female plants and
    another for growing a single or more females mixed in with some
    males. As we said before this depends on how much grow space you
    have and how much money you want to spend. It is important that
    your pollination room is kept well away from your female grow room.
    Pollen can travel by air and it is advised that the two areas are kept
    well apart. Also bees and other insects can spread pollen. Not only that
    but you can too. Always wash your hands and face after handling a
    male plant. This saves problems of pollen from a male plant getting
    onto a female that you wish to keep for sinsemilla.
    Figure 3.2 - Pollen from the male plant can be collected by shaking it
    over a clean surface such as a sheet of glass. The pollen can then be
    swept up by using a credit card. If you gather it in a piece of paper
    like this then you can........
    Figure 3.3 - .....Store male pollen in a test tube like this. If
    kept out of the light pollen can keep for a long time. You can use this
    pollen to make seeds from a female plant by sprinkling some of the
    pollen onto the female flowers. Photography film canisters also make
    great pollen storage units. Both picture by Slowhand.
    Figure 3.4 - This is a great picture of an indoor grow room by GIYO.
    The light hanging down over the plants is a HPS light. It gives off an
    orange glow to the grow room.
    So being logical we can see that we have paid a bit of money
    for 10 seeds and that we want to get 100% germination results. The
    following passages will tell you how to achieve that success rate.
    Seeds can be germinated in a number of ways. Some ways
    guarantee more success than others. It is recommended that you
    consider the 'rockwool SBS propagation tray' method.
    Figure 3.5 - Germination picture by BushyOlderGrower.
    Seed soil propagation:
    This is a method whereby the seeds are placed down in moist
    soil about 3mm or the length of the seed from the surface. The soil is
    kept moist (Not soaking wet) by sprinkling water over it once a day.
    This has a moderate success rate. Out of 10 seeds only 7 - 8 may
    Seed towel propagation:
    Figure 3.6 - This is an example of some seeds that have germinated.
    This method is the towel germination method. Picture by Kryptonite.
    This is a method whereby the seeds are placed either on a
    damp towel or on a damp piece of cotton wool. Cheesecloth may also
    be used. The seed is then covered with more damp wool or a damp
    towel. The towel/wool must be kept moist at all times. If the material
    dries out it may damage the seeds. Everyday check to see if the seeds
    have started to produce any roots. If they have then immediately
    transfer the seedling to a grow medium (such as soil) using a pair of
    tweezers. Do not touch the root. This has a moderate to high success
    rate. Out of 10 seeds 8 - 9 may germinate. The problem with this
    method is that sometimes the transplant can cause the seedling to go
    into shock. This can kill the germination process leaving you with
    nothing. With practice you can get all your seeds to germinate.
    Propagation kits:
    This is a method whereby the seeds are placed in small unit,
    called a seed or clone propagator, which is designed to help plants
    germinate. One such kit is called a rockwool SBS Propagation Tray.
    Some of these kits can be heated and look like a miniature greenhouse.
    At the bottom of the tray is a small area where water, or even better
    ‘some germination hormone' is poured. Small grow cubes called
    rockwool cubes are placed into slots in the tray, which automatically
    dips the rockwool into the solution (Figure 3.8). The seeds are placed
    into tiny holes in the cubes and the cover is then put back on the unit.
    Figure 3.7 - Propagation kit and Clones by Strawdog.
    This has a very high success rate. All the seeds can sometimes
    germinate and in most cases often do. The disadvantage to this method
    is that you need to spend money on the tray, rockwool and grow
    fertilizers. The price of the tray is about $10/£10, the rockwool cubes
    $5/£5, the grow fertilizers $5/£5. If you have spent $50/£50 on seeds
    then why not spend the extra $20/£20 on getting a small kit together
    like this. The other advantage is that you can use this same tray to help
    root your clones.
    Figure 3.8 - Overhead shot of some seedlings germinating in
    rockwool. Picture by Shecky Greene.
    Drafts are a killer and will stunt germination. Always make
    sure that you keep your germinating seeds away from any open
    windows or fans. Also make sure that the room is kept warm. A cold
    room can inhibit your germination rates. The other thing to look out
    for when using germination fertilizers is to make sure that your
    mixture is correct. Do not use high doses of fertilizers with seedlings.
    In fact water is all seedlings should need. You do not need to add
    anything. Some people do use germination solutions though, but make
    sure that you keep these solution strengths down low. An incorrect
    mixture can burn your seedlings and cause them to fail. Another thing
    to do is to leave your seeds alone to grow. Do not go fiddling with
    them, hence the term ‘digging up your seeds'. Some people tend to
    disturb the soil to see how their seeds are doing. This is a bad move
    and can break or even damage the seed and root. The other thing to
    keep in mind is that some strains produce seedlings that have weak
    stems. This means that the seedling may tend to lean, sometime more
    than 90 degrees, to the left or right. If you find that your seedlings
    need support then use a small stick to hold your seedling up. Tie the
    stem to the stick using a piece of thread. Never tie the thread above a
    growing shoot or the seedling will push up against the thread and rip
    itself. You may continue to use a stick to support your plant as it
    grows. If your plant still has a weak stem during vegetative growth it is
    recommended that you give the base of the stem a little shake every
    morning and evening. This will help the plant to develop a more solid
    stem. Outdoors the wind shakes a plant and causes it to develop this
    solid stem. You can fake the wind by doing this mildly every morning
    for two or three seconds. However if you read on you will find that
    indoor fans help do this. (Note: Never bring a stick from outdoors
    indoors for support as the stick may have some bugs on it. Some bugs
    such as spider mites can go undetected in their incubation nests inside
    the wood.)
    Seeds must also be viable if they are going to germinate.
    Never use white seeds. These are immature. Find seeds that have white
    and grey markings or another color apart from white.
    Crushed seeds will also not germinate. Old seeds may have
    trouble germinating. Always try to use the best seeds you can find.
    During the stages between germination and vegetative growth
    the grower may find that he/she needs a bigger pot. Transplanting is
    done nearly always as early as possible. One example of a transplant is
    when the seedlings are ready in their rockwool SBS tray. The seedling
    is lifted from the tray along with the rockwool cube and placed in
    another grow medium such as soil, or maybe even a hydroponics setup
    (more about hydroponics later). That is called a transplant. There is
    not much of problem when transferring the cube and seedling to the
    soil. Just dig a small hole in the soil for the cube and place it in. Cover
    the cube with soil. The cube will not effect your plant's growth and
    will add support if anything.
    If you have started your seedlings in soil then you may want
    to transplant the plant to a bigger pot. The problem with transplanting
    is that people like to move the soil and roots along with the plant from
    one pot to another. This means that the plant must be lifted out with
    the soil in place. How is this done? Well there are two ways. The first
    way is that one does not need to remove the plant from the smaller pot
    at all. All you have to do is cut away the base of the small pot and
    place this pot into the bigger pot of soil. The roots will grow down
    through the bottom hole of the old pot and into the new one. The roots
    will always find their way down. The other way is too make sure that
    the soil is very dry. Delay watering your plant for a couple of days and
    let the soil settle hard. Then you can use a clean knife to cut around
    the inside of the pot. Cut deep, but do not damage the roots. When you
    have done this push your fingers down into the side and lift the plant
    and soil out. You will have some breakaway soil but this does not
    matter as long there is not too much of it lost. Quickly place the plant
    into the larger pot and fill with soil. Give your plant some water so
    that it will take to the new soil. Never ever try to lift your plant by the
    stem. Even though the stem may look safe and strong this nearly
    always causes problems down the line. You should always have a firm
    grip of the soil when transplanting. Some people like to clean the
    roots, but I would not recommend it for cannabis. If your soil is very
    compact you may be able to turn the pot upside down and tap the
    whole medium out as one solid mass.
    During some transplants the cannabis plant may go into
    shock, even if your transplant was clean and perfect. If you have kept
    your plant well it should survive. If the plant has not been looked after
    it may fail quickly. A good grower always takes care of his/her plants.
    Transplant shock is caused by a disturbance of the roots. If the roots
    are cut or fall down, the plant does not respond well to this. This is
    why you must always make sure that you keep a firm hold of the soil
    during transplants. Also refrain from feeding them for 1 week if you
    can. There are some transplant feeding products that work as
    hormones out there and you may wish to have a look at those.
    There are many soils out there that advertise themselves as
    germination soils. They basically are the same as any other soil except
    they contain micronutrients and are kept somewhat 'clean' (the soil is
    sifted and no compost is added). Ordinary loam soil with a pH of 7 and
    an NPK of higher or equal amounts of N than P or K is good for
    starting seeds in. Even the ratios of NPK @ 5:1:1 or 8:4:4 are good.
    Just make sure that the N is equal too or higher than the P and K
    factors on the label. More about soil later.
    We are now coming to the first core divide in growing
    marijuana. At this stage you should now know something about the
    History of Cannabis, How it is smoked, Cannabis Species, The
    Cannabis High, Seeds, How to choose and obtain seeds, Grow factors,
    The life cycle of the plant, Propagation, Germination and
    Transplanting. Now all these things are generally pre-production
    methods except for Transplanting. You are about to take your seedling
    and put it into your main grow area. This means that for the next 3 - 9
    months your plant is going to be located in a certain environment.
    That environment is either indoors or outdoors. So let us talk about
    each in brief for a moment.
    Figure 3.9 - Indoor Grow room picture by Shipperke.
    Light is the most important factor next to choosing your
    strain that you must consider. There are two main ways to light your
    plants indoors - Natural light and artificial light. Both ways have
    advantages and disadvantages.
    The first thing you should know is that indoor lights produce
    bigger flowers (more bud) than natural window light. This means you
    get more THC quantity with artificial lights than you will with natural
    sunlight indoors. Even in countries that have hot sun for 6 months of
    the year you can still find it hard to produce big buds indoors under
    natural light. Some people have grown plants under an attic window
    that they open during the dry days. This will grow you bud but not as
    much as you would get using an artificial light system. The other side
    of the coin is that natural light is free, electricity is not and grow lights
    are a little bit expensive to buy and use. They are definitely not as
    expensive as it is to run an electric cooker 24 hours a day but they are
    little expensive to use all the same.
    Figure 3.10 - The Sun. Picture by Inf3cted.
    When using a window grow try to place your plant near a
    window that gets the most sunlight. Sun comes up in east and sets in
    the west. It travels more north or south depending on which side of the
    equator you are. Think about it for awhile. Also remember that you
    have the seasons to think about. If you plan on a window grow try to
    establish when you want your plant to receive most of its light. You
    want your plant to get most of its light during flowering. If July is the
    best month for sunlight then you may consider producing your
    seedling back in April or May or even as early as late March. Try to
    guess when you will get the best weather. Coordinate this with the
    flowering times directed by the breeder and you will be able to foresee
    your harvest time.
    Also remember that people can look up and see your plant if
    they are sitting near the window. Do people come to wash your
    windows? Also remember that if you have a Sativa plant then they will
    get big. Take all these factors into consideration when you are growing
    your plants with natural sunlight indoors.
    If you are growing indoors then you may have a room or part
    of a room that you wish to use such as an attic, closet, basement, spare
    bathroom or hot press. These locations nearly always need artificial
    light. You may even decide to build a cabinet yourself. There are many
    ways to set-up an indoor grow room. We will discuss this later in
    Figure 3.11 - Indoor Grow room. Picture by Kryptonite.
    Outdoor growing is growing on your own property outdoors.
    Guerrilla farming is growing away from your property in public areas
    or on someone else's property. For this part we will talk a bit about
    Figure 3.12 - Outdoor Grow. Picture by Mullummadman.
    The biggest problem with outdoor growing is keeping your
    grow area secure and private. Some people will rip-off your plant in a
    second if they see what you have (Figures 3.13 and 3.14). Others will
    just create trouble for you. Security is vital. I once heard about a small
    hippy community who lived near a forest here and grew their
    marijuana near a stream. They eventually had to stop growing as their
    plants where being ripped-off by the locals in the town nearby. It also
    must be understood that the thieves where not just teenagers either.
    Adults will do this too. In some cases where the cannabis industry is
    booming, rippers are professionals and this is their main source of
    financial income.
    Figure 3.13 - This is a picture of an Outdoor grow that has been
    ripped off. The smaller image shows a picture of the plant before it
    was ripped off. Picture by Slowhand.
    Figure 3.14 - This is another shot of a grow area that has been ripped
    off. As you can see rippers are without mercy. They would not even
    leave a little bit of branching so that the grower could take cuttings
    from his plant. Picture by Slowhand.
    The best way to conceal an outdoor garden is to grow the
    Cannabis plants among other plants that will mask the cannabis. The
    other way is too grow the plants is inside a brick cubicle with a sheet
    of glass on top. Some of you may have the advantage of living out of
    town and have gardens in which this kind of stuff can be constructed.
    Hide your crop well. Everybody does not easily spot marijuana but
    someone who is trained to watch out for this plant will see it right
    away for what it is. If you feel that unwanted people may see your
    grow area then you might want to invest in some form of a greenhouse
    that has the windows painted white but the top glass left clear. The
    white walls will help reflect the direct sunlight coming down around
    your plants.
    Guerrilla growing is hard work and most often prone to ripoffs.
    By planting in a forest or in someone else's field you are not in
    any danger of being caught with the plants ON YOUR PROPERTY.
    Having said that the person's property that you planted on is at risk.
    Be a nice grower and do NOT plant on someone else's property. It is
    not a nice thing to do and looks bad on the cannabis growing
    community. Find a public area such as a forest or a hill slope. Look for
    an area that is away from the public eye. Look for an area that will
    receive plenty of light. There are lots of places for this sort of thing.
    You have just got to spend time finding them. This is the key to
    guerrilla growing. Find a good patch and you will have good bud.
    Figure 3.15 - Photograph by Mullummadman.
    Your grow patch, whether on your own property or public
    property, must be treated. Leaving seeds in the soil and coming back
    four months later is generally not going to get you good results. Two
    main things must be done to the patch to begin the grow - weeding and
    Figure 3.16 - A night shot of an outdoor grow by Slowhand.
    Some guerrilla farmers keep it simple. What they do is start
    their seedlings in small plastic pots indoors. When the seedlings have
    developed the grower cuts the bottom of the pot away. A small piece of
    cardboard is taped to the bottom of the pot. The plants, in their pots,
    are then taken to the grow patch. A hole is dug in the ground and the
    pot and plant is placed in the earth. The cardboard is removed and the
    hole is filled in with soil. That way you have germinated your plant
    and only need to worry about secondary factors such as light, security
    and pests. The roots will find their way out of the bottom of the pot
    and into the soil below. Don't worry about the roots not finding a way
    out of the pot. They always do, that is their job.
    Figure 3.17 - Picture by Slowhand.
    Most outdoor growers favor this method. A patch near a river
    is ideal. Easy access to water helps if there is a short draught.
    Figure 3.18 - This is another picture of some great colas by
    Here is a list of the basic items that are used to grow cannabis
    plants indoors and out.
    - Seeds.
    - Soil.
    - Propagation tray.
    - Rockwool cubes.
    - Pots.
    - Support sticks.
    - Thread.
    - Watering can.
    - Water spray bottle.
    - Spider Mite spray.
    - Other bug sprays.
    - A pair of scissors.
    - A sharp knife.
    - Grow nutrients.
    - Rooting gels.
    - Growth enhancing fertilizers.
    - Large pitchfork.
    - Small shovel.
    As we advance to the latter stages of this book we will see that
    the grower can equip himself/herself with much more items that can
    help them on their quest for bigger buds!
    The male plant is not a good smoke (Figure 3.19). This
    however may not always be the case. Some strains have male plants
    that produce more THC than other males of a different strain.
    Sometimes the male can be stronger than a female from another weak
    strain. Most male plants from good genetics are stronger than the
    Ruderalis female. Males can be smoked or made into hash oil. Simply
    wait until the plant is flowering and then clip the top 6 to 12 inches of
    the plant away and remove the leaves. Throwaway any stems and
    branches. Cure these leaves and then find out for yourself if the male is
    any good or not. You may be in for a surprise.
    Figure 3.19 - This is a good example of what a male plant looks like.
    Instead of pistils we have small round pollen sacks. The picture is
    from The Penguin.
    Most seeds that fail to start germinating do so because their
    shell is too hard to break open and allow water to seep in. At the end
    of your germination period you may have found that 25% or more of
    your seeds have not managed to pop out. You can help these seeds to
    grow by using a method known as Scuffing.
    Simply get a small box, like a matchbox. Line the inside of
    the box with sandpaper. Place the seeds into the box. Cover the seeds
    with more sandpaper. Close the box and shake the seeds in the box for
    a few minutes. Now the seeds are scuffed and their outer shell should
    be easier to pop open. Plant these seeds in soil and they should be able
    to germinate.
    Chapter 4
    Before we go any further we should really address this topic
    because it crops up so often. Security is always an issue whether you
    are an outdoor or indoor grower. We have learned before that the best
    way to secure your grow area is too prepare yourself fully for any event
    that may occur in the foreseeable future.
    Pre-production security arrangements are very important. A
    sudden peak in your electricity bill may attract unwanted attention
    from certain authorities that look for these things. This may seem odd
    to you, but it does happen.
    It is now common practice that most countries who still have
    prohibition on cannabis plants set up special task squads to track down
    growers. The most often used technique by these agencies is tracking
    purchasing orders. Many agencies keep a tab on certain grow shops
    and look through the items that are being sold to outside customers.
    This tracking requires a special court order but the police can obtain
    this with ease. If someone has been identified as buying suspicious
    grow products, then the agency will also try to find out what other
    things have been bought using the same credit card or another
    electronic money transfer medium. Many a grower have been caught
    out this way. The best way to avoid this system is to PAY CASH.
    Seed-banks are also sometimes tracked by certain agencies
    that watch for incoming mail with certain stamps and envelope
    headers. Sometimes it is not the agency that do the tracking but people
    themselves in the post office who want to rip you off. IT DOES
    HAPPEN, and quite a bit as well. To get around this most seed-banks
    do not head their mail anymore. If your seed-bank does head their mail
    with their company address it is best to keep away from that seed-bank
    in the future.
    If you have done the right thing then you should have all your
    growing tools and kits bought via cash and your seeds purchased from
    a good seed-bank that has good seeds and a safe secure way of sending
    you their product. Many seed-banks use great stealth to get you your
    seeds. It is advised that you never have seeds sent to your grow area.
    When growing indoors try to consider certain factors
    cropping up in the near future. Like visits from repairmen or gasmen.
    Some growers have a grow room which they can sweep clean in under
    1 minute. This means that they have a closet near by where they can
    quickly move their plants too, if any visitors do pop up.
    Always keep your security closet near your grow area. It is no
    good walking around your house with five or more plants in your
    arms. It is a bad idea to use your toilet for the backup security area
    unless you have another one that the guest can use.
    Apart from this backup area the other thing you must
    consider with indoor security is the smell. Now Super Skunk and
    Skunk#1 are very smelly plants. When the plant is in flowering she
    begins to stink.....Hence the name ‘Skunk'. If you live in an apartment
    complex then there is no way you will be able to hide the smell unless
    you have some form of an EXTRACTOR FAN or an OZONE
    GENERATOR (Figure 4.1).
    Figure 4.1 - This is a home made Ozone Generator. Picture by
    In some indoor set-ups a fan can be used to extract any
    unwanted smell away from the corridor outside. It can be pumped
    through a window or filter to another area where the smell will not be
    noticed. Not only that but plants love fresh air and wind, so the fan can
    do two things at once for you. An ‘Ozone Generator' is a device that
    can be purchased from most grow shops. It helps to get rid of cannabis
    odor problems.
    Apart from the smell problem the other problem you will have
    is with fires. Now this is a very important thing to know about. Some
    people growing indoors tend to use very shoddy lights with even
    shoddier fixtures.
    Many people have lost their homes because of this problem.
    Taking short cuts with lighting and electricity is a big no no. I have
    heard off and met many people who have come home only to find a
    fire brigade outside who have just finished putting out the fire which
    engulfed part of the house. The same thing happens in every case. The
    grower gets closer and sees a number of police officers looking around
    the room. The fire officer points to the cause of the fire - a half melted
    light fixture with burnt out sockets. The officer looks around and sees
    the plants all crispy and black. They both know what this is all about.
    Why do they know? Because they have seen it a hundred times before.
    New Marijuana growers nearly always make the mistake of
    creating inferior lighting set-ups. Needless to say that this is because of
    three things. (1) They don't have the right information because of
    government censorship laws. (2) They do not have the money to invest
    in a proper lighting system. (3) They just want to grow their pot quick
    and fast and cheaply. We will discuss proper lighting systems in
    another chapter.
    As we have said before the best way to secure your outdoor
    garden plants is via a shelter. One must also remember that some
    outdoor plants do smell and this can carry over a short distance given
    the right wind and the right climate. Most people would not know
    what the smell is but some DO! Many growers get around this problem
    by growing cannabis plants that have very little smell during
    flowering. These types of strains are listed by most seed-banks. Again
    you should ask about strains that have low smell levels. All Cannabis
    plants smell to some degree during flowering.
    Figure 4.2 - Nice Bud picture from RealHigh.
    Figure 4.3 - An outdoor Haze plant by Slowhand.
    The other thing to do is to make sure that during harvest time
    you have harvested as quickly and as privately as possible. Standing
    over a small shelter putting cuttings of cannabis into a big black bag is
    not exactly the most secure way to go about this. Some people go out to
    their garden with black plastic bags and drop the bag over the plant
    before pulling it up. This way you will not expose your crop to anyone.
    Some people do their harvesting at night. This is not recommended
    though as it can draw unwanted attention to you.
    If you are growing your plant outdoors in the open without a
    shelter and away from the general public then you may want to create
    a pen for your plants. A pen made from chicken wire will prevent any
    unwanted predators such as deer or rodents from eating your plants.
    Predators are a big problem with outdoor growing. We will talk about
    pests later.
    Tracks left behind from your ventures too and from your grow
    area are the worst give-away for any guerrilla farmer. People just love
    to walk through the woods and say "oh look a nice track, I wonder
    what is down there?". Try not to create a track when you go to your
    grow area. Even by visiting the same spot once every two weeks you
    will leave a trail that some hikers might see and use. Try to access
    your grow through several different routes if you can.
    Figure 4.4 - This is a picture of a guerrilla grow deep in the woods.
    The cannabis is hidden low down in the foreground of this picture by
    As a guerrilla grower you should try to keep away from
    hacking through 100 feet of brambles to get to your grow site. When
    choosing a spot find an area that is not too dense but not too sparse
    either. Some Guerrilla growers have even created small grow baskets
    that they hang from trees away from the public eye. If the baskets are
    well camouflaged then you can get away with loads!
    As a guerrilla grower you should always wear gloves when
    handling your work. If you have buckets near by do not leave
    fingerprints on any of these. Also you will want to consider having a
    good reason for being in your grow area. Imagine that you are walking
    back from your path, with no crop on you, and someone jumps out of
    the bush. He says - “What are you doing here?”. Of course you know
    that there is a river near by so you show him your fishing rod or your
    binoculars and bird spotting book. There are many things you can take
    with you on your trip to make you look more like somebody else other
    than a cannabis grower. Many grow sites have been staked-out by
    people you would not like to meet. Always check the area around your
    grow site for any people who may look suspicious.
    The worst security time for any guerrilla grower is during
    harvest time. This is when you must go from your grow area to your
    home with your growing rewards. Always do this as early as possible
    in the morning just as the sun rises. Always double-check the area for
    any suspicious looking people. Pack your buds and plants into black
    plastic bags (brown paper bags are better) and then put these into a
    backpack. Walk towards the edge of the forest /woods/clearing and
    quickly drop your bag down against a bush and cover it up. Walk
    towards your car and look around again. Drive your car for about five
    minutes and look around to see if you can see anything. If you see
    anything suspicious, or anything following you leave the bag and go to
    town (not home - leave that until the situation is under control again).
    If things look okay, drive back to where you left your bag. Pick up your
    bag and put it in the boot or trunk of the car. Drive home carefully.
    Some people can get away with guerrilla farming lots of pot.
    This is commercial growing on a risky scale but can still be found in
    various parts of the world where cannabis is still banned. The growers
    usually live deep in the forest miles away from the nearest town. They
    may spend up to 7 months out there on their own, cultivating the crop.
    Recent grow busts by the police have identified some several tons of
    bud being grown by as little as 3 people living squat in some unknown
    region of British Colombia.
    There is not much more to outdoor growing than this. Most of
    the elements that you need to complete your outdoor grow are in the
    indoor growing chapter of this book. Read through this and it should
    give you ideas about how to treat your outdoor grow patch.
    Chapter 5
    There are many ways to grow your cannabis plant indoors.
    The two core methods of indoor growing are soil growing and
    hydroponics. There is a separate chapter for hydroponics, and so this
    chapter will deal with soil growing.
    Figure 5.1 - Indoor Grow room. Picture by RealHigh.
    There are many ways to grow an indoor soil garden. The most
    common indoor set-ups are:
    1. Bench growing,
    2. SOG growing,
    3. ScrOG growing
    4. Cabinet growing.
    We will discuss these methods in a moment but let us first see what
    they all have in common.
    Lights come in all shapes, sizes, wattage and type. A full
    indoor grow lighting kit should contain the following items. Bulb,
    reflector, ballast, timer and electrical inputs/outputs.
    Figure 5.2 - Regular HID Bulbs.
    Figure 5.3 - A reflector with bulb and ballast.
    Figure 5.4 - This is a picture of a timer.
    Most lighting kits are open, meaning that no hood or glass
    will cover the bulb. It hangs directly under the reflector. The bulb is
    fixed into a socket that is attached to the inside of the reflector. That
    socket is connected to the ballast. The ballast can be internal or
    external. If external there will be a cord leading to the ballast from the
    bulb's socket. The ballast plugs into a domestic light socket like the
    one you have in your home. Some ballast types even have a built-in
    When buying a lighting system it is recommend that you buy
    a complete system and an extra bulb. Check to make sure that the
    lighting system meets safety regulations and has some sort of
    guarantee with it.
    Figure 5.5 - This is an example of what an external ballast looks like.
    You might be able to see the timer on top of it.
    Light can be separated into a spectrum, which form the colors
    of the rainbow. Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.
    Each of these lights mix down to give white light. Artificial lights,
    because of their nature, tend to lean towards a tint of one of these
    colors when they mix down to form white light.
    The electro-magnetic spectrum is a term used in lighting to
    describe the distribution of electro-magnetic radiation by reference to
    energy. This table roughly gives wavelengths, frequencies and energies
    for parts of the spectrum. There is also the color part of the spectrum
    that is very important for plants.
    Plants are green, which means that Plants absorb light at the
    middle of the spectrum (Orange to Indigo). Cannabis plants need this
    part of the light spectrum to reach full growing potential. The intensity
    of the light is also important. A light that feeds the full bandwidth with
    all light spectrums will work very well - like sunlight. When dealing
    with artificial lights it is better to choose a light that concentrates its
    intensity on the top part of the spectrum. The most common indoor
    light systems are called HID lights. We will discuss the full range of
    lights that you may come across in some grow rooms.
    Domestic Lights:
    Figure 5.6 - A domestic bulb. Also called
    an incandescent light source.
    These are the lights you find in use around your house. These
    lights come in all sizes and wattage - 15 watts to 150 watt. These
    lights are not suitable for growing because of their low light intensity
    and bad color spectrum.
    Fluorescent Tube Lights:
    Figure 5.7 and 5.8 - These are examples of some fluro fixtures and
    bulbs that can be bought in most hardware stores.
    These lights are the long industrial lights that are found in
    many a school and work place. These lights come in nearly all lengths
    and sizes. 2 to 10 feet are the main sizes that are out there. They also
    run between 10 watts and 300 watts. These lights are okay for growing
    but they provide little light and are hard to set up properly. They also
    are not in best light spectrum for Cannabis plants to grow in.
    Halogen Lights:
    Figure 5.9 - A Halogen light.
    Halogen lights are the small lights that can be seen on the
    outside of factories for flood lighting the grounds during the night.
    They are usually small and black. These lights can range anywhere
    between 75watts and 4000watts.
    Halogens get extremely hot and can provide an unsuitable
    condition for growing Cannabis under. They are not recommended
    because they are dangerous to use indoors for growing. They are also
    not in the best light spectrum for growing Cannabis.
    Fluorescent White Tube Lights:
    These are not in use much and are very similar to the
    Fluorescent lights except they are in the correct growing spectrum.
    These lights are not very strong and do not range much above
    100watts. They are only recommend for growers who do not want to
    grow full flowering cannabis plants.
    Figure 5.10 - White Tube Light.
    Horticultural Lights:
    These lights are professional horticultural lights. They are
    developed by horticultural lighting companies and are tested to suit
    growing plants indoors. These lights are commonly called HID (High
    Intensity Discharge). Like the former lights these also come in kits
    with bulb, reflector, ballast and timer. They also come in different
    wattage and different shapes and sizes. If you want to grow good bud
    then you need a HID. A HID is the second most important purchase
    you will make next to choosing your strain.
    Metal Halide (MH) and Mercury Vapor (MV):
    The lights are HID lights and are used for the seedling and
    vegetative growth stages of your plant. They can also be used for
    flowering and are quite good too. They come in all shapes and sizes
    and range from 75W - 4000watts. These lights are very common and
    are a good kit for the indoor Cannabis grower.
    Mercury Vapor is not as common as it used to be. It has
    almost been replaced byMetal Halide now. If you have a choice
    between the two it is best to stay with the new MH kits. MV also has a
    tendency to be slightly out of the optimal spectrum range.
    High Pressure Sodium (HPS):
    This is the lighting choice of many a Cannabis Cultivator.
    These lights come in all shapes and sizes and have a range of 75watts -
    4000watts. These lights are in the perfect spectrum for growing
    cannabis and come highly recommended.
    Figure 5.11 - This is an example of a HPS and also a MH Light
    system. There is nothing at face value to Indicate that the light is a
    HPS or a MH. To check this out we need to look at the ballast and the
    bulb and read what is says about the type of light system that it is. MH
    lights tend to give off a blue tone, while HPS tend to give off an
    orange tone.
    The first thing to say is that some growers have a MH set-up
    for seedlings and vegetative growth and a HPS for flowering. The HPS
    is a better flowering lamp, while the MH is a better veg lamp. If we
    can only afford one we should get a HPS. Both MH and HPS can be
    used for vegetative growth and flowering. However since we are
    growing for bud, we should try to get the best HPS we can.
    The next thing they look for is the light kit itself. Check to see
    that the light is certified and is in good shape. Then check to see if the
    light is air-cooled. Some of these lights have a fan built in which keeps
    the light cool. If you see this then you know that you are going to need
    somewhere to vent your air. This may mean that you need to adjust a
    wall in your grow area so that the air is extracted from the light.
    Figure 5.12 - This picture shows two air-cooled hoods attached to
    their respective air ducts. This photograph is by Chimera.
    Lights that are air-cooled (Figure 5.12) tend to last longer and
    do not heat up your grow area that much. Most expert growers like to
    keep a room at a stable controllable temperature and use these aircooled
    lights to achieve that. If your light is not air-cooled then you
    will have to build an air vent and fan in your grow room wall to keep
    the temperatures under control. Cannabis leaves will burn if placed too
    close to a HID light.
    Figure 5.13 - This is a water-cooled light system. These inventions
    have been around for awhile but have not caught on that much
    because they require a good bit of work. A constant pump of cool
    water must be circulated into and out of the light system.
    The next thing to check is how the light is supported. Does it
    require a light stand or does it require to be hung from the ceiling. In
    most cases you will be able to make your own stand if you feel that you
    are not willing to fasten a few hooks and chains to your ceiling. Also
    check to see if the electrical fittings suit your needs. Will they plug
    straight into your system at home or do you need an adapter? Maybe
    you might require an extension cord with your purchase. Most HID
    kits can only take a specific wattage of bulb and a certain type of bulb.
    If you have a 600W HPS system, then you should only use 600W HPS
    bulbs. Some lighting kits have something called a 'switchable ballast'
    (Figure 5.14). This means that you use both MH and HPS lights with
    the system. Check your kit for further details.
    Figure 5.14 - This is a picture of what the switch looks like on a
    ballast that can take 2 HID types.
    The next thing to look for is the guarantee. Check to see what
    the manufacturer has said about this light and how long the guarantee
    is for. Last but not least is the most important part of your light. The
    wattage and lumens.
    HID Lights can range anywhere between 75W and 4000W. In
    general the stronger the wattage the more light that bulb will produce.
    However we must also consider another factor and that factor is called
    Lumens. Lumens are the correct way of measuring how much light per
    square foot a bulb emits. Lumens and wattage do go hand in hand but
    can vary a large amount between systems. The better the lighting kit,
    the better the lumens it will cast. Lumens have more to do with the
    design of the light than the wattage of the light itself. Some 600W
    lights may give the same lumens as a 400W light. Have a look at this
    This is interesting because we have two types of HPS lights
    using the same bulb wattage and one of the types is casting more
    Lumens than the other. The reason for this is that the higher lumens
    kit is better quality than the other. So we now know that some lighting
    kits produce better Lumens than others. Check through HID lighting
    kits and look at how many lumens they cast. This is a good Indicator
    of how professional that light is. Also a 4000W HID is too much for
    any grow room. A 1K (1000W) bulb is the maximum light wattage you
    should purchase. Use several 1K bulbs if you need more light. A 4K
    bulb will bleach Cannabis and is very hot.
    Now for the big question. How many Lumens do I need? Well
    this depends on three things. (1) How much do you want to spend? (2)
    How many plants do you have? (3) How big is your grow area?
    M.V 175 8000
    M.H 400 36000
    H.P.S 600 45000
    H.P.S 600 36000
    You do not want to go less than 2500 Lumens, even for one
    plant. You want to get the best so you need to hit the 45000 mark or
    more. In general one light that casts 45000 lumens is enough to cover
    a workspace of about 3 feet by 3 feet. This is quite an average space
    and you will probably get anything between 6 - 9 plants in that area.
    Again we must keep in mind the strain that we are growing. One large
    Sativa plant can cover a 9 square foot grow area in no time. Short
    Indica plants are different. You can get maybe 12 plants into a 9
    square foot grow area. If you really want to pump up your plants then
    you may consider a lamp that casts 100,000 Lumens or more. If you
    want a bigger grow area then you may consider 2 lamps that cast
    100,000 Lumens each. All is relative to how much you want to grow
    and the size of your grow room.
    Let's say for the record that we would like to grow 4 plants.
    Then what we should aim for is a light that casts 45000 Lumens. This
    means we should buy a 600-Watt HID system. Let's say we want to
    pump up our available light to around 60,000 Lumens. This means we
    should buy a 1000-Watt HID system. If our area is bigger we might
    need 2 or more 1000-watt HID lights to achieve this. It is all very
    respective to the 3 elements we mentioned above.
    There is nothing wrong if you want to use a 1000-watt HID
    light on 2 plants. They will grow bigger and better. The only thing is,
    do we really want to spend all that money on the light and the
    electricity bill? HID lights range anywhere between $220/£200 and
    $700/£670 for a full kit. You may be able to buy the parts and build
    your own, but this is only recommended if you have some experience
    with lights first. A 600W HPS kit should cost about $250/£230. This is
    money well spent if you want great plants with big buds.
    Over time you will understand more about grow rooms and
    how to light them properly. With experience you should be able to tell
    what light suits your needs. As a general rule, when in doubt buy a
    400W HPS or better. Even a 250W HPS can get you good-sized buds
    but go below that mark and you will only end up with less than
    average results.
    The reflector part of the lighting kit can also cause a
    difference in lumens cast between two different systems using the same
    bulb. The reflector does it exactly what is says. It reflects light. The
    other thing to consider is that when the light bounces off the reflector
    it is going to fall down on your plant. When it does your plants will
    absorb this light. Not all of the available light is picked up by the plant
    and some of the light will escape and reflect off your workbench. Your
    bench may even absorb some of the light. This is your light that you
    are spending money on so why not try and do something about saving
    this escaping light. Some reflectors are very good and some are very
    poor. Reflectors should not be any color other than white or polished
    metal. Some reflectors may have a small green film of plastic covering
    their insides. Remove this if you can. It should just pull off like a piece
    of tape.
    Many people get mirrors or tin foil and line their grow area
    with it. This is NOT good. MIRRORS ABSORB LIGHT. This
    means that only a small amount of your light is reflected back towards
    your plant. What you need is something white. White is the best color
    for reflecting light, period. Not shiny glossy white, just plain ‘flat'
    white. A white wall will reflect more light than a mirror will. Many
    growers like to paint the walls of their grow ‘flat' white. This helps a
    lot. Other people like to line their grow area with the back end of tin
    foil wrapping (the white side). This is okay, but make sure that you use
    the white side and not the shiny side.
    A substance which looks like a tin foil sheet, called Mylar
    (Fig. 5.15), is very popular in cannabis grow rooms. Instead of using
    white walls you can use this reflective alternative. Most DIY and
    hardware stores will sell it in roles.
    Figure 5.15 - Mylar comes in roles like this.
    Figure 5.16 - Mylar in the grow room by Shipperke
    It is also recommend that you keep a spare bulb at all times in
    case your other bulb dies. It is no good going down to the local
    hardware store only to find that they are out of the bulb type that you
    need. This could leave your plants without light for along time.
    It is also wise to remember that plants need
    water and lights use electricity. Both these factors when
    mixed are extremely dangerous. Be safe and wise and
    keep all electrical outlets away from your plants and any
    liquids that you use.
    Okay so you have your grow area set-up with all your security
    arrangements met. You have your lights set up and hanging down over
    your grow area. You also have some form of light reflection around
    your plants to help conserve your light. Your seed-bank has sent you
    your seeds and you have germinated them. They are on a tray next to
    you and you are preparing to transplant them into larger pots. The
    larger pot will stay with the plant throughout its life cycle and you
    need to provide the best medium possible in which your plant will
    Figure 5.17 - Nice Indica/Sativa plant from BushyOlderGrower.
    Soil comes in many types and varieties. What you will find as
    you go along is that you will add various ingredients to your soil to
    improve plant growth.
    The Cannabis plant will grow long and winding roots into the
    soil. These roots absorb water and other minerals from the soil to help
    it grow. The soil also goes through dry periods when you do not water
    your plant or when the plant has absorbed most of the water. During
    these dry periods air is allowed to creep in between the soil particles,
    allowing the roots to breathe.
    There are 3 main factors to look at when buying soil. (1) pH,
    (2) Nutrients and (3) Structure.
    pH is a way of measuring how much acid and alkaline is in
    the soil. The pH scale runs from 1 - 14. 7 is neutral, 0 is very acidic
    and 14 is very alkaline. Cannabis plants in soil like a pH of 7. When
    choosing your soil you should be looking for a pH of 7. It should tell
    you this on the bag. Going above or below this mark can cause your
    plant problems during growth. Small pH meters (Figure 5.18) can be
    bought in most gardening shops and can be used to measure the
    overall pH of your soil.
    Figure 5.18 - This is a picture of two cheap pH meters that can be
    purchased from most grow shops.
    The three major nutrients that are found in soil are Nitrogen,
    Phosphorous and Potassium or NPK for short. NPK can come in two
    forms - with the soil or as a stand-alone fertilizer (usually in a bottle).
    When you look at the bag you will see that the % of each part is stated.
    Such as 20:20:20. This means 20% N, 20% P, 20% K. The remaining
    40% is just other elements that make-up the soil. In liquid it would
    usually be water. This ratio can change between different types of
    nutrient and soil brands so we need to understand what Cannabis likes.
    Cannabis plants like good levels of N and a normal level of P
    and K during vegetative growth. You need to pick a bag that has all
    three, not just 10:20:0. When looking at chemical fertilizers you need
    a mixture that has the first number higher or equal to the rest. 12-12-
    12 is fine, 20-20-20 is fine, 12-6-6 is fine and 18-4-5 is fine. The 12-
    12-12 and 20-20-20 are the best ones to find. Something like 8-20-20
    is not suitable for vegetative growth. Bags with higher P are for
    flowering plants. As a grower we do not transplant to new soil for
    flowering. We simply use plant feeds to bring up the P levels during
    Try to find a soil that is not too moist. In other words try to
    find a soil that dries out well and does not hold water like mud. It
    should say on the packet whether the soil is a wet or dry one. Try to
    find a balance between the two. Wet soil will sometimes cause plant
    damage because your roots need air to breathe. Dry soil may also dry
    out too quickly and needs to be watered more often. Try to find a soil
    that is loose and feels fine but slightly heavy in your hands.
    Basically the soil structure is up to you. Do not buy anything
    that is hard and bulky or too soft and weightless. Medium Soft and
    heavy is what you want.
    There are many more types of soil mediums out there and
    here we will briefly go through a few. Marijuana can be grown in most
    of these soil types but you will see that there may be some problems
    with a few of them.
    (Also there is a type of artificial medium on the market called
    Perlite. It is a good medium but does not come with any nutrients and
    generally needs to be mixed with another soil type. Vermiculite is
    another product like Perlite which should be treated the same way.
    Mix them well with soil if it is your first time using them. With a bit of
    experience you should be able to control the mixture ratios better.)
    Sand and Silts:
    Figure 5.19 - Sand.
    Sand soils can be pure sand or a mixture of sand and soil. The
    problem with sandy soil is that it drains water and minerals out too
    quickly. This means that it is a very dry soil and not suitable for our
    needs. These soils can waste our time and money.
    Silt soils are nearly the same as sand soil except they are more
    clay-like and of a darker color. Silts hold nutrients well but do not hold
    water very well. Like sands they are prone to quick drainage. Sands
    and Silts are rarely used on their own to grow cannabis. Mostly it is
    mixed with other soil types.
    Figure 5.20 - Clay
    Is a stiff tenacious fine-grained earth consisting of hydrated
    aluminosilicates that become flexible when water is added. Marijuana
    roots do not really like clay. Clay can rarely be used on its own to grow
    Cannabis. Mostly it is mixed with other soil types.
    Figure 5.21 - Loam
    Loams tend to be a mix of all of the above. The combination
    of the mix is always stated on the bag. In fact, in most cases normal
    soil that you buy in the shops has sand, silt and clay mixed in with it.
    When you encounter a bag of soil it is nearly always going to be a
    Loam. Loams are very fertile soil composed chiefly of clay, sand, and
    humus. They are highly recommended. It must be noted at this point
    that you do not want to bring natural outdoor soil in. This is because
    the soil may not be sterile and it may contain bugs and pests. Always
    buy soil from a gardening shop. Soil is the cheapest part of your grow.
    Figure 5.21 - Humus
    Is the organic constituent of soil, formed by the
    decomposition of plant materials and can be bought in bags at the local
    gardening shop. Most of these products try to eliminate bugs and other
    living matter from the soil but sometimes this is not 100% successful.
    Don't be too surprised if you find a worm or green fly in the package.
    Humus is also sometimes known as compost, but compost is the final
    mixture of manure (which is of organic origin), loam soil and some
    other mediums with added organic matter. Humus is that added
    organic matter stuff.
    Figure 5.22 - Plant in three gallon pots by BushyOlderGrower
    Basically pots come in all shapes and sizes. Marijuana plants
    are best kept in pots that are somewhat large (1.5 - 3 gallon pots)
    because cannabis does grow long roots.
    Also you are better off buying a pot that has some form of
    perforations (holes) at the bottom. The perforated pot sits on a small
    dish (you should be able to buy these at the same time you buy your
    pots). When you water your plant some of the water may drain down
    through the soil and come out through the perforations and into the
    dish. The dish should be emptied if this happens to avoid water spills.
    More advanced growers use pots that do not contain
    perforations at the bottom. This is because advanced growers never
    water or feed their plants too much. If you over-water your plant, these
    perforated pots will drain some of the water through to the dish. What
    happens is that the water may also leech down some of the nutrients
    that you have added to your soil. Over-watering can cost you time,
    wasted nutrients and even kill your plant.
    Before you use a pot make sure that you clean it thoroughly
    before use to get rid of any unwanted chemicals or dust that may have
    gathered in the shop or factory.
    Pots are very cheap to buy. It is always best that you only use
    one pot per plant. If there is a problem with the soil, watering or
    nutrients then only one plant will feel the effects.
    Figure 5.23 - Picture by Chrisesq.
    Figure 5.24 - This is a great picture of a method known as doublepotting
    which helps create a thicker stem. During vegetative growth
    the bottom of the top pot is cut away and is placed on top of a new pot
    with fresh soil. The roots grow down into the next pot. Look at the size
    of the cola in this picture by GIYO.
    So at this stage you now have the best soil that you can get
    your hands on. You take the seedling and make the transplant. You fill
    in the empty areas of the new pot with more soil. You pat down the top
    of soil lightly and you apply the stake if needed to support your plant.
    You also add a small amount of water to your pot and you place the
    pot on the bench under the light. You will leave the light on 24 hours a
    day and watch as your plant grows over the weeks from its seedling
    cycle to its vegetative state.
    Figure 5.25 - A Picture of seedlings finishing their seedling stage and
    going into vegetative growth. By Vic High.
    Figure 5.26 - Top shot of an Indica plant in veg by Ralpheme.
    During your plants vegetative cycle it will begin to grow
    quickly and produce more leaves and new branches. The stem will also
    grow thicker. This is when your plant begins to look like a marijuana
    Water your plant ever second or third day or better still when
    they dry out. Never let the soil dry out completely for long periods of
    time. The following method works best with good size pots.
    Day A - watering, Day B - let dry, Day C - let dry, Day D - check soil
    and water if needed.
    This really does depend on the size of your pots though. If you
    pick up your pot when it is dry and pick up the same pot when it is has
    been watered, you can tell the difference in weight. This is a good way
    to judge if your pots need water or not.
    It is easy to see signs of over-watering. Watch your plants
    after you have watered them for the next 2 - 3 days. Do the fan leaves
    point outwards to receive more light? Or do they wilt downwards and
    look like claws. If they wilt then you may be under-watering or overwatering.
    Check the soil. Is it dry? If it is then add more water. If it's
    wet, then leave the soil dry out for more time until your leaves pick up
    again. You will eventually understand more about your plants needs as
    it grows along. What you need to do is form a pattern or relationship
    with your plants watering needs.
    Over-watering does kill plants if the watering continues. If
    this happens let it dry out and hope for the best. Use a fan near the
    surface of the soil if you can. You may find that you need to water
    everyday because your light may be discharging a lot of heat and your
    soil might be a quick draining type.
    Your plant needs all the light it can get in vegetative growth.
    Leave your light on 24 hours a day and enjoy watching your plant as it
    If you have a good stand or light support you will be able to
    lower or heighten your light. This is great because the closer your light
    is to the plant the more light it will receive. However make sure it is
    not too close or it will burn your leaves. If you can keep your hand at a
    certain area under the light and not feel discomfort then your plants
    should do okay too. If you feel discomfort, so will your plants. Use
    common sense and adjust your lights accordingly.
    Some Cannabis plants can grow as fast as an inch a day! So
    you need to watch out that your plant does not push up against the
    light. Be safe and know your plants grow rate before attempting to
    place your light very close to the plant.
    If you do suffer a burn use a pair of clippers to remove the
    burnt areas. This is only advised for light burns and not for soil or
    nutrients burns.
    Chapter 6
    By now you have managed to set up the basic environment in
    which your indoor plant will grow. As a gardener you have total
    control over that environment and need to make sure that it meets your
    plant's needs.
    As your plant grows through its life cycle it begins to absorb
    some of the minerals from the soil. When it does remove minerals it
    adds some waste material of its own. We have said before that
    Cannabis plants like a steady pH of around 7. The removal of nutrients
    and addition of waste material on top of other factors may cause this
    pH to increase or decrease.
    It is always good to check the pH at least once every week for
    plants that grow in soil. It is also good to check the soil's pH a day or
    two after you feed your plant. A pH test kit can be purchased in most
    grow shops. The electronic test kits can be a bit expensive though. If
    you find that your soil's pH has shifted out of the 6 - 8 range you may
    want to try and bring the pH back to 7. Again, below 7 is acidic and
    above 7 is alkaline. There are two ways to do adjust the ph of the soil.
    The first is called a soil flush and is not recommended but may be
    needed under certain circumstances such as serious pH fluctuations
    and chemical burns.
    A soil flush is a last resort ‘time to save our dying plant'
    maneuver. You only resort to a soil flush when all else has failed. Let
    us pretend for a moment that you have a soil that holds a lot of water
    and you want to feed your plant. You take out your favorite feeding
    bottle and you decide that you want to add it straight to your plant and
    then pour water in after.
    This is never recommended! Always mix your food with
    water in a container and then use the container on your plant, such
    as a jug or watering can. Try following the guidelines on the
    feeding bottle along with the recommendations in the book. If not
    the following story may happen!
    So you open the cap and bend it over towards the soil. You
    flinch, the bottle spills. The next thing you know half of your raw
    feeding liquid has managed to find it's way into the soil. You curse
    yourself that you did not follow the instructions. You grab your hair,
    ‘What to do?' you say. You pick up this book and turn to this chapter.
    You read about the soil flush and see that your plant now has a small
    chance of survival. You know that all the raw chemicals will kill your
    plant. All hope is lost. This is your last resort. Here is how to flush
    your soil.
    STEP A.
    (1) Take the plant to a sink.
    (2) Turn the plant on its side making sure that you do not break the
    (3) If you think the stem will break then quickly find a long stick and
    place it in the soil.
    (4) Use a piece of sowing thread to tie the plant to the stick at several
    (5) Tape the stick to the pot.
    (6) Tilt the plant on its side so that the top of the pot with the soil is
    facing at an angle towards the sink.
    (7) Watch the color of the liquid that runs out.
    (8) Do this until all the liquid has poured through.
    STEP B.
    (1) Pull your plant back up and sit it in the sink. Pour lots of water on
    top of the soil.
    (2) Wait until the water flows out the bottom of the pot. Look at the
    color of the flow.
    (3) Repeat this process until the color of the water becomes clearer.
    (The soil should get very muddy when you do this and some of the
    mud will pass out with the water.)
    (4) Once the water is clear tilt your plant on its side again and wait for
    all the water to drain out. You may repeat this process several times. If
    your feeding solution does not have a color then you should keep an
    eye on the texture and smell of the solution that you are flushing out.
    When this changes your flush has worked.
    (5) Quickly take your plant to a warm dry area and wait for the soil to
    dry out.
    (6) Use a pH meter to test the pH of your soil.
    (7) Follow step D.
    STEP C.
    (1) You can use a screwdriver to make holes in your pot if it is light
    and the plastic is not tough. You can always use thick masking tape
    later to patch the holes closed. If you can do this then do and follow
    step B.
    (2) If you can not then you need to do an emergency transplant.
    (3) Quickly set up a new pot and put in new soil leaving a large gap in
    the middle where your plant will go in.
    (4) Take your plant and use a knife to cut around the edge of the soil
    as close to the rim of the pot as possible. Go as deep as you can.
    (5) Put you fingers in down around the inside of the rim and pull the
    plant out of the pot. Try not to rip the roots.
    (6) Hold the soil over the sink and place it down near the drain
    holding it together with your hands. If your root mass is big you may
    need help doing this.
    (7) Turn on the water and let it run slowly down over the soil.
    (8) Keep holding the plant for a number of minutes until you see a
    change in the water that is coming out from the soil. Do not crush the
    soil just hold it. It will get muddy and it will break up a bit, but this is
    to be expected.
    (9) When the water changes quickly place the plant into the new pot.
    (10) Fill up the spaces with new soil and use a stick to prop up your
    plant if needed.
    (11) Quickly take your plant to a warm dry area and wait for the soil to
    dry out.
    STEP D.
    (1) Every day measure the pH of the soil. If you have flushed your
    plant properly it should return to the near 7 mark (given that the water
    you use is a neutral pH of 7). In the meantime you can be reading
    about how to change your plant's pH as directed on the next pages.
    It is sad to say but very few plants do survive such an
    emergency soil flush. The soil flush is, in its essence, over-watering
    your plant to the point of removing most of the minerals and
    ingredients in the soil. If your plant manages to pull through you have
    done well. If your plant does not then you will know better next time.
    A soil flush causes the plant a great deal of shock and should only be
    attempted as a last resort if your plant is dying and can not be cured by
    any other means.
    If your plant makes it, the plant may have sustained some
    damage. If any of the leaves are burnt or look dead you can remove
    them from the plant by clipping them away. Plants usually take about
    2 weeks to get back to full health.
    pH - bringing back to neutral from acidic:
    If the pH of your soil is too acidic then you may want to bring
    it back to a natural 7. What you need is Lime. Lime can be bought in
    small containers from any grow shops. Just simply add some lime to
    your soil the next time you water your plant. Only add small amounts
    each time and then the next day use the pH meter to study the effects.
    What you will find is that you will get to know your soil better than I
    could describe here and know what it needs. Advanced growers know
    how much lime they need to bump their acidic soil back to 7. They
    know this by trial and error. This is one thing about cannabis growing.
    The best cannabis growers grow good cannabis because they have
    made many mistakes in the past. Learning is an experience and that is
    why people enjoy growing. They like to learn more and experience
    more. Don't let a bad growing encounter put you off.
    pH - bringing back to neutral from Alkaline:
    If the pH of your soil is too alkaline then you may want to
    bring it back to a natural 7. To correct this you need to make your soil
    more acidic. Here is a list of ingredients that can each be used to return
    your plants PH to 7.
    -Cottonseed meal
    -Lemon peels
    -Ground coffee
    -Some Fertilizers also are very acidic and can bring the pH down to 7.
    When using this method always moderately apply the
    substance and check the pH. Over time you will know what measures
    to use. This is best left up to the grower as he/she will know how big
    their pot is and how much should be added. Experiment a bit and learn
    as you go along.
    pH up / pH down:
    These products are available in most grow shops. They
    actually act as a pH agent for adjusting your soil pH. They only come
    in two forms - pH up and pH down. More and more people are using
    these chemicals to adjust their soil pH.
    Remember NPK? Well, NPK are the primary ingredients that
    are needed in soil for marijuana to grow well. NPK stands for
    Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium. In addition to these there is
    something called secondary supplements. Secondary supplements are
    found within the soil but sometimes not all of them are there. The
    secondary supplements are as follows. Ca (calcium), Mg (magnesium),
    and S (sulphur). CaMgS for short. There are also seven more
    micronutrients. These are as follows: iron, boron, chlorine,
    manganese, copper, zinc, and molybdenum.
    These micronutrients are not extremely important for good
    plant health, but the secondary nutrients and Primary nutrients are.
    Check your bag to see if it has some secondary nutrients.
    Sometimes a Ca, Mg, or S deficiency in the soil may cause
    growing problems for your plant. If the soil is lacking one of these
    factors your plant may start to display a nutrient deficiency. Mg
    problems are common. To correct this feed your plant a 1/3 of a spoon
    full of Epsom salts per 3 gallons of water every 3 - 4 weeks.
    If your soil does not have these properties and you feel that
    you are going to have future problems then simply find a feeding
    product that contains these elements. Next time you feed your plant
    you will be able to supplement it with these missing secondary
    Micronutrient problems rarely show themselves unless there
    is a problem with lockout. Lockout is a chemical reaction that takes
    place among the nutrients in the soil. It can occur if a large amount of
    one single nutrient is added. This can lockout the other nutrients,
    preventing your plant from using them. If lockout does occur then you
    need to flush your soil.
    Feeding is the process of adding to your soil what the plant
    has taken out. You will only need 3 types of feeding solutions
    throughout your plants growth. You will need a bottle of feed where
    the NPK has equal or higher levels of N than P and K and you will
    also need a bottle that has higher levels of P than N and K. The first
    one is to be used during vegetative growth and the second is for
    flowering. You will also need a third bottle of secondary nutrients.
    Keeping a 4th bottle of micronutrients is also handy just in case.
    You should only feed your plants when they need it. The
    amount of feeds that you will use is relative to your growing conditions
    and strain. Most plants only need to be fed every fortnight at 50% or
    less than what it says on the label. Marijuana plants burn easily. So
    never mix your solution at 100%. If it says use 1 cap full of feed per 3
    gallons of water, then use 1 cap full per 6 gallons of water. Sometimes
    you might even end up burning them using these low levels. This goes
    for both flowering, secondary nutrients and veg feeds. You should
    never have to feed cannabis plants once a day. During flowering
    simply switch the feeding bottle over to the one with the NPK where P
    has higher levels than N and K. You may want to add secondary
    nutrients once every 3 weeks to your grow. Epsom salts is a great way
    of giving your plant Mg, which is probably the most important
    secondary nutrient.
    During vegetative growth and flowering, cannabis plants love
    to get fresh air. Always keep a window open and let your grow room
    refresh itself every day. The fresher the air the better. Also during the
    dry periods, in between watering, the roots like to breathe. Fresh air is
    always the best air. During winter you may want to reduce the time
    you leave the windows open as the cold may stunt growth. Just refresh
    the air in your room for 15 - 20 minutes during winter and close it
    If your grow is enclosed then use fans to extract the old air
    and another fan intake to refresh the system.
    Cannabis plants work best in the 40 - 80 percent relative
    humidity area. rH (relative humidity) is the amount of water in the air.
    Fresh air always is the best way to control humidity. If you have a rH
    measuring kit you can judge for yourself how much fresh air you need
    before hitting the optimum 60% level.
    There are some expensive devices called De-humidifiers that
    control humidity in the room. This is not recommended unless you
    have a very large grow area underway. Just use fresh air and you can't
    go wrong.
    Temperature is controlled by any heating unit or natural
    sunlight that your room receives. Normal households have suitable
    temperatures for growing cannabis in. The best meter for temperature
    control is the human body. If you find it is too cold in your grow room
    then so will your plants. 75 degrees is what you should aim for.
    Slightly warmer rooms do help plants to grow a bit quicker. Use a
    thermometer to analyze your room's temperature. If too cold, turn on
    the heating. If too hot, open a window and maybe even use a fan.
    During the dark periods of the flowering phase the temperature is
    allowed to drop down as far as 55.
    Plants enjoy C02 and release O2 during a process called
    photosynthesis, but more 02 is released than C02. Since our plants
    would like more C02, the grower can use a C02 generator to help the
    plant's growth. C02 also helps grow bigger buds! Since room C02
    levels in general are low the plants can use a bit more. You can buy
    C02 systems in some grow shops.
    Figure 5.27 - This is a regular squirrel cage fan. These fans come in
    all sizes and can be bought in most hardware stores.
    Fans can be placed quite close to mature marijuana plants.
    Cannabis plants like the wind if it is a slight breeze because it helps
    them to develop stronger stems and branches. Also fans circulate the
    air around your plants.
    Fans help create an environment which makes the plant think
    that it is outdoors. Get a fan if you can. It is worth it and will help you
    grow a better plant!
    Chapter 7
    By now you have managed to set up the basic environment in
    which your indoor plant will grow. You have your plants in some pots
    under a grow light with some white surfaces nearby and some fresh air
    in the room. You have also been watering your plant properly and you
    have been adjusting the pH and nutrients in the soil.
    Everyone makes mistakes on their first time growing. Very
    few get to this stage without problems, so don't feel too bad if you did
    not get it right. Growing marijuana is like riding a bike. Once you get
    it, it is hard to forget.
    You have been adjusting your lights and watching your plants
    grow. If you have not had any problems your plants should have a
    number of nodes and a small leaf mass at the top of your plant which
    you know is going to form the next set of leaves and branches.
    Your leaves should be flat and stretched out. If they are, then
    your plant is enjoying its environment. If not then maybe you should
    consider turning to our problem solver chapter to see what has gone
    You have been watching the height of your plant every week
    and now the plant is becoming more like the picture of the strain that
    you viewed in the seed-bank brochures. Then one day you notice that
    the plant is not growing much taller anymore. It seems to have
    stopped. You take a closer look and see that there appears to be small
    new growths at most of the nodes between the stem and the branch.
    This is new to you. These have not developed before so you ask
    yourself, “what are they?”
    Your plant is now reaching the end of its vegetative stage.
    These small new growths are going to produce more leaf, branches and
    FLOWERS. The plant is now entering its Pre-flowering stage.
    Now is the time when you should be hoping for as many
    females as possible and that all your work has not been in vain. You
    closely look at the new growths (Calyx) to see if you can identify your
    plant's sex, but it is still too early to tell.
    The early stages all look the same you say? What should you
    do now? You do not know? You will have to wait and see.
    There are three things that can reveal your plant's sex early
    on but these are not 100% accurate. They are more of an educated
    guess. So remember these methods can fail to be accurate but most of
    the time they are a good indicator.
    First Early Sexing Method:
    If you have been growing the same strain and all the seeds at
    the same time, then you may notice that some plants are taller than
    others. This is a sign that the smaller plants are female and the taller
    ones are male.
    If you want too, you can separate your plants into two sections
    in order to see how good your guesswork was when you do finally
    identify sex. The other thing to know is that male plants in general
    start to pre-flower before females. If you have taller plants that are
    producing new growths before the smaller ones, then the taller plants
    are probably male.
    Second Early Sexing Method.
    A good way to identify plant sex at early date is to look at the
    calyx with the aid of a very fine magnifying glass. (See last page of
    this book for pre-flowering/calyx illustration)
    If the calyx is raised on a small short stem then it is probably
    a male. If the calyx is not raised on a small short stem then it is
    probably a female.
    Third Early Sexing Method.
    Force-flowering a cutting is probably the best early sexing
    method out there. Simply take a cutting from the plant that you want
    to sex and place the cutting in a cup of water or into a cloning medium
    such as rockwool. Give the cutting 12 hours light and 12 hours total
    darkness. The cutting will flower and display its sex. Clones will carry
    the exact same genetic make-up as the plant it came from, including
    These methods are NOT 100% accurate but will help you to
    understand more about the visible differences between male and
    female plants. In a moment we will explain how to identify sex
    properly and completely.
    Your plant will Pre-flower between 1 and 2 weeks and during
    this period the new growth regions begin to change shape depending
    on whether the plant is male or female. It is during this shape change
    that you can properly detect your plant's sex.
    Pre-flowering is a sign that your plant is mature enough to
    start flowering. As a grower you have a simple choice to make. Do you
    want to flower now? Or do you want to continue vegetative growth?
    Here are a few facts before you make that choice.
    - Some cannabis plants can be kept alive for up to 10 years by simply
    keeping a light on the plant at all times. These plants will grow to a
    certain height and then form into a bush. It will then eventually stop
    producing branches and will spend the rest of its life growing new
    leaves to replace the old ones.
    - Bud production is not equal to the height of your plant. Bud
    production is equal to your growing environment, your strain's genetic
    make-up and the amount of nodes that the plant has. All nodes are
    potential bud areas, but every strain has a genetic threshold for bud
    - It is possible to get more bud with lots of plants which are flowered
    as soon as they are mature (which also keeps them shorter and
    smaller), than extending vegetative growth with less plants until they
    reach their maximum height and size. The time frame for the shorter
    option may also produce more bud turnover per annum.
    Figure 7.1 - A Picture of a large indoor grow by Vic High.
    Keeping these things in mind, you can either choose to flower
    now or choose to keep your plant growing until it reaches its size
    threshold before you start flowering. If you take the longer route then
    prepare to have the space for it, because when you flower most
    cannabis strains they can sometimes more than double in height and
    If you have pre-flowers and want to flower you only have to
    do one thing. You must put your plants under a 12/12 schedule.
    Figure 7.2 - A Picture of an indoor grow by
    Mia Stoner.
    Most people never get good results or bud quantities from
    cannabis plants because they have never heard of 12/12.
    12/12 is easy to explain. Cannabis plants grow outdoors
    naturally between the months of April to October/November. This
    means that towards the Sept/Oct/Nov dates the plants will be in
    flowering. During this time the days get shorter and the nights get
    longer. When this occurs the plant is under 12 hours of light and 12
    hours of darkness. When this 12/12 PHOTOPERIOD occurs the plant
    is naturally stimulated to flower. If the 12/12 continues then the plant
    will produce its flowers. As long as 12/12 continues the flowers will
    grow larger and more plentiful. This is part of the cannabis plants
    evolution and how it has taught itself when to flower. Naturally as a
    grower we want lots of flowers so we need to put the plant through a
    light cycle of 12/12. This means that we must turn our lights on and
    off at these given ratios.
    During pre-flowering you will either manually turn on your
    lights for 12 hours and turn off your light for 12 hours everyday or you
    will use an automatic timer. If your light comes with a timer set the
    timer to do this. Throughout the 12 hours of darkness it is best to keep
    your grow area as dark a possible. A small desk light at the other side
    of your room will cause your plant not to react properly to 12/12 which
    will result in continued vegetative growth. In fact any light that
    penetrates the darkness will stop your plants from flowering properly.
    That means that your grow room must be sealed to the point where it
    is completely light proof. If you want to learn how to do this perfectly
    then I suggest that you read up on 'Photography Dark Rooms', either
    on the Internet or in your local library. Photographers use common
    items that can be bought in most hardware shops to make their filmprocessing
    rooms light tight. If you can replicate their ideas (basically
    a thick black screening around the doorframes or any open light
    points) then you will have a great system for flowering plants in. I
    think most of you would have done this by now anyway if you listened
    and took the advice on covering your grow with either Mylar or white
    walls/boards. If you have prevented any light from leaking out, then
    you have prevented light from leaking in!
    Problems with 12/12
    If you switch to 12/12 before pre-flowers have shown then you
    may encounter the following problems.
    - Stress related sex problems (Hermaphrodites).
    - Abnormal bud growth.
    Stress related sex problems MIGHT produce hermaphrodite
    plants. The stress of what is sometimes called "early flowering" (it is
    not really early flowering, there is no such thing as early flowering.
    We will explain this in a moment) triggers the plant into a situation
    where it thinks that its chances of reproduction are slim to none. That
    situation is a condition called - 'self-pollination'. It does this by
    producing both male and female flowers on the same plant. The male
    flowers then pollinate the female flowers which will eventually
    produce seeds. The reason for this is that the plant notices that the
    photoperiod is irregular and that it should no longer be in the
    vegetative cycle but in flowering. This shocks the plant into a last
    ditch effort to receive pollen because it feels that it has missed its
    chance to receive pollen already (in the wild males release their pollen
    just around the time that females begin to flower and sometimes even
    before that).
    Figure 7.3 - This is what hermies look like. Notice that both
    male pollen pods and female pistils are present on the plant. They are
    hard to see and you should check your female buds every week for
    signs of any male flowers. 1 and 2 indicate the hidden male flowers.
    You should be able to see their lumps in this photograph if you look
    close enough. Picture by Rasta Linus.
    Figure 7.4 - Here is another shot of the hermie condition. The male
    pods are not clearly visible when they first develop and this is why
    checking for them is a must. Picture by Rasta Linus.
    Figure 7.6 - These series of shots also show
    the hermie condition clearly. Picture by Rasrta Linus.
    Hermies cause problems because they may carry the hermie
    trait with their offspring. In fact, genetically the hermie will only
    produce female seeds and hermaphrodite seeds. It will never produce a
    male seed. If you have ever seen all female seeds been advertised by
    seed-banks then you should have the right to know that these seeds
    come from female plants which are stressed into producing male
    flowers. The plants then self-pollinate themselves and the results are
    female and hermaphrodite seeds. In a special case a female known as
    an XX female will produce more female seeds than hermaphrodite
    seeds. That is how female seeds are created. In general growers try to
    keep away from any hermie plants because they will spoil a Sinsemilla
    crop. Also having pollen floating around in your grow room from a
    hermie plant will spoil everything else including breeding projects.
    Abnormal bud growth is a side effect of this. Because the
    plant produces male pollen sacks in with female flowers you may
    notice that the bud looks different. Also the quantity of female bud
    produced is decreased because of pollination.
    Early induced flowering is not technically forcing your plant
    to flower. If you force flower on one strain that has not pre-flowered it
    will flower at roughly the same time as an exact copy of the same
    strain which has been flowered only when the pre-flowers appear
    naturally. Force flowering simply acts by stressing the plant into a
    crisis condition.
    Get the best out of your plant and wait until your plant starts
    pre-flowering before switching to 12/12.
    Keep feeding and watering your plant as normal. Pay
    attention to the flowering areas as they begin to grow. At this stage you
    may want to switch to your flowering feeds. Soon you will be able to
    see your plant's sex.
    You now have spent time and money on your plants. You
    have grown a small selection in the hope that you will get some
    females out of them in the end. If you end up with no female plants out
    of 15 seeds then send the seed-bank a letter explaining how out of the
    15 seeds 15 where male. If you are lucky and sincere in your writing
    then the seed-bank may send you some free seeds or give you a
    discount on your next order. Seed-Banks or breeders are not
    responsible for male/female ratios. It simply is not under their control.
    People get 100% females and others get 100% males, but it is rare that
    such a thing will happen. To get 5 or more females in a pack of 15 is a
    good thing.
    Here are some pictures of male and female plants.
    Figure 7.6 - This is a picture of a male plant. You can see the male
    pod clusters clearly. The picture is by the 'Chronic Couple'.
    Figure 7.7 - This is a female plant by BigIslandBud.
    Notice how the female produces little white hairs and the
    male produces little ball like shapes. This is the definitive male/female
    telltale factor. Do not kill away any plants before you see these flowers.
    It is the only time that you can really say for sure if the plant is male or
    If all things have gone well and you have taken good care of
    your plants, you will now enter the flowering stage of the plant's life
    cycle. You have removed and maybe killed off the males. You now
    have a number of females to work with. This is going to be the most
    important time you will spend taking care of your plant.
    The male plant produces pollen sacks which, when ripe, burst
    and scatter pollen to the female plants. The female plant produces
    white hairs at the internodes and top cola (head) of the plant during
    flowering. These hairs (pistils) begin to curl slightly and grow longer
    and thicker. The top cola should carry the most pistils. These pistils
    are sticky too touch (do not touch them too much! they also contain
    your much wanted THC) and begin to cover in resin over the flowering
    period. The reason for the stickiness is that it is used by the female to
    catch falling pollen. If the female plant is not pollinated she will try to
    grow more sticky areas. Hence the results of a sinsemilla
    crop........Bigger and Better Buds!
    Figure 7.8 - Picture by BushyOlderGrower.
    During the strict cycle of 12/12 she will eventually reach a
    peak period of flowering. Along with the flowering cycle the plant will
    also fill out more. More leaves, more branches and more flowers. Your
    plant will start to almost take the shape of a Christmas tree. The lower
    fan leaves will be stretched out to the max in order to receive the most
    light. Running upward in a cone shape she will get tighter
    with floral and leaf development.
    During the peak period of flowering the female pistils on the
    flower's tips will swell up. When the swelling takes place the pistils
    will begin to change in color. They will generally change from a white
    to an orange tint to a red tint to a brown tint. All strains are different
    but in general it is a white to red or a white to brown color change (It
    is best to use the breeder's recommended flowering times for harvest
    guidelines though). When she does this you are ready to harvest her
    and sample your favorite herb.
    Each strain does have their own flowering times and each
    strain also may have a different color tint when they reach a flowering
    We will talk more about harvesting in another chapter.
    Chapter 8
    New ways of improving your plants yield have crept up over
    the years or so and some of them have become quite popular. The three
    most common new types of indoor growing are SOG, ScrOG and
    Cabinet growing. These are basically ways to grow seriously large top
    These methods do not have to be soil based, one can use
    hydroponics instead but soil is generally the most widely used medium
    with these set-ups.
    The idea behind these methods is that the bottom branches of
    indoor cannabis plants do not catch much of the light cast from the
    HID and are not that good to smoke either because they are fan leaves.
    So why not create an
    apparatus that concentrates on the top part of the plant. In most cases
    the cola is going to produce the most bud so why not try to get that
    part of the plant to grow really big. So along came the idea of SOG,
    which is also called Sea of Green.
    A SOG set-up can be any size but must maintain a certain
    overall shape. First of all you need to grow some plants normally first.
    Wait until you see flowers and then select the nicest female you can
    find. Take cuttings from this female mother plant and grow the
    cuttings out until they have roots. When you do take multiple cuttings
    try to create as many plants as you can fit into your grow set-up. In
    SOG grows we are looking a 1 plant per square foot or even one plant
    per 0.10 square feet. So that should be a good estimate as to how many
    clones you will need. Now, we want to look at pots here first. What we
    really need are tube shaped pots or pots that have a longer depth than
    width. You can make these yourself or buy these pots in the store. All
    we want to do is pack in as many pots with plants as we can into the
    SOG grow chamber. It is just a big cluster of pots with clones. The
    clones are planted all at the same time. No more new plants are
    introduced into the SOG grow room. When they have reached your
    desired height (keep it small), they should be flowered. Because the
    clones have been taken from a mother plant, the clones will carry the
    age of the mother plant with them. Since we took them from a
    flowering mother they will start to flower as soon as we start 12/12.
    The final harvest result will be a full canopy of bud, hence the
    name Sea Of Green. Because you are using clones you only have to
    grow the clones out for the remainder of their flowering times. This
    means you can have a large bud quantity turnover ever 2 months.
    Figure 8.1 - An example of a ScrOG by 'A Merry Caner‘.
    This is like a SOG (Sea of Green) grow except fewer plants are used in
    conjunction with a screen to fill the grow area out with heavy top
    colas, hence its name - ScrOG (Screen of Green).
    This screen is simply a large wire mesh put between your
    light and the plants (Figures 8.1 and 8.2). Again clones from a female
    plant are used like in the SOG method, but we allow at least 1 square
    foot per flowering plant in the ScrOG method.
    The plants are not flowered until as such time as they have
    covered the entire mesh with green. As the plants grow up through the
    wire mesh they are trained and worked around the netting to form a
    very even canopy. The top colas and side branches are all trained
    under the screen.
    Figure 8.2 - Another basic ScrOG grow. Picture by Rattdog.
    There are many variations of the above two methods. They all
    still contain the same principles. SOG and ScrOG's were originally
    set-up to get the most out of poor quality fluorescent lights. Today's
    growers (since HID's came along) with a 600 watt HID bulb have
    literally taken these set-ups to a new level.
    The veteran fluorescent user would line the roof of the shelf
    or the box with fluorescent tubes to try and get the most out of their
    grow with this method. Now with HID lights they can really push their
    buds to the limit. Some people even grow top colas that are the size of
    soda bottles or large corncobs!
    Figure 8.3 - This picture shows a ScrOG variation. It is a small ScrOG
    set-up for a cabinet grow. This picture also contains a Homemade
    Octagonal Vented Hood for a 250W HPS light. Picture by Foz
    RealHigh is a ScrOG lover and has been growing ScrOG style
    for some years. He has added a bit to the ScrOG method through his
    experience with the process. This should help you understand more
    about the ScrOG method and what people have learned with this new
    This is like a SOG (Sea of Green) grow, but a screen is used
    to train the plant to grow horizontally creating a canopy of buds
    beneath the light. The screen is simply 2” chicken wire, or 2” nylon
    poultry fencing, or one can use hooks and 20 lb. fishing line to make
    their net.
    The screen is at a set height above the plant medium. This
    height varies from 8” to 24” depending on the light type you are
    using. The light should be hung by chains and adjustable so that one
    can raise it if needed.
    Clones are used again like in SOG style, because we do not
    want a hole in the canopy were a male was removed. This is why we
    use female clones for SOG and ScrOG grows. It does not take as many
    plants for ScrOG growing as compared to SOG. One should allow at
    least 1 square foot per flowering plant in a ScrOG grow.
    This method also takes anywhere from 1 to 3 weeks longer
    per grow because we will be in a vegetative stage longer than a SOG
    The plants are trained to grow horizontally under the screen
    until they are 2 weeks into the flowering cycle. At this point you let the
    tops grow vertically through the screen. One should always train the
    main growing tops to the outside of the screen. They always grow the
    tallest, and we want the tallest to be on the perimeter of the screen. As
    the tops grow vertically, push the large fan leaves down under the
    screen, allowing the light to get to all the developing bud sites. If leaf
    growth is excessive, one should first cut the finger in half making a
    shorter leaf and allowing light to get to the bud site. Leaving half the
    leaf on the plant still allows it to make energy for the plant to grow.
    Taking a whole fan leaf away in one go can stunt growth.
    In a week take off the rest of it. Some do not remove leaf at
    all, but I do it to help with air movement, reduce chance of mould or
    fungus, and to allow light to penetrate the bud sites. Just remember to
    remove a little at a time if you do remove leaf.
    At this point flowers are forming and growing vertically
    creating a carpet of bud above the screen. Now we go below the
    screen and remove all the lateral branches and stray bud sites. The
    canopy has thickened up enough now that light is blocked from
    reaching this lower growth. It is only sucking away your plant's
    energy from the buds under the light. Remove all branches that have
    not made it to the screen and the stray bud sites. We want the plant to
    concentrate all its grow energy on the developing flowers above the
    The main 3 differences between a SOG and ScrOG grow is
    the number of plants grown, the screen, and the slightly longer grow
    cycle of the ScrOG. Both methods can be done under the same light
    and in soil or with hydroponics. There are many variations of the
    ScrOG grow, but they all contain the same principles. There are the
    V-ScrOG, Stadium ScrOG, Flat ScrOG, and the Cylinder ScrOG
    grows in today's homes. I think you can picture what these look like.
    They work the same way but just have a different shape.
    One of today's strains has earned a place in the ScrOG
    garden and this is C99. One will find a pure Indica or Indica
    dominant cross will produce the best in a ScrOG grow. A good ScrOG
    grow will average 2 ounces of bud per square foot of screen, but one
    can not expect this the first few grows, for it takes proper timing and
    the correct strain to accomplish this.
    ScrOG was originally designed for grow area's limited in
    height and fluorescent lights were used to light the grow area. Today's
    growers are using HID (High Intensity Discharge) lights for growing
    ScrOG. They have taken it to the next level with these lights and are
    generating great results.
    Today's grower is always trying some thing new to better the
    production of their favorite plant.
    So there we have RealHigh explaining to us how he has
    worked with the ScrOG system. As you can see he has added much
    more to the basic ScrOG than we have mentioned. All this comes with
    experience, practice and experimentation.
    To define this is going to be no easy task. A cabinet can be
    your hot press, small closet, an old refrigerator, a box, a press, or a
    simple cupboard will do. The grow area is usually small and can
    accommodate 1 to 4 plants at a time. The idea behind a cabinet grow
    (Figure 8.4) is to keep a cycle of plants growing at all times. There are
    three things a cabinet needs to get started, and these are:
    -The Cabinet
    -A Light
    -An air vent with fan.
    Most people simply set up their lights so that it is adjustable.
    Figure 8.4 - A simple cabinet grow by X3n0.
    They do this by using adjustable chains or a spring-type cord.
    A large hole is made in the unit to allow some air to get in. Another
    hole is made to allow air to escape. A fan is placed in one of the holes
    that will extract the hot air which is being generated by the heat from
    the bulb. This vent and fan would be near the top of the cabinet near
    the light. Hot air rises and that is why it is placed there up top. The
    intake hole is on the opposite side of grow area and can have a fan in it
    also. This fan is generally moving a bit quicker than the extractor fan
    to allow a fresh supply of air to circulate before leaving the grow room.
    The walls are painted flat white or Mylar is hung for
    reflective purposes. The plants are usually placed in separate pots and
    go through their entire life cycle within the cabinet environment.
    Clones are taken from the plants and placed either on a second shelf in
    the cabinet or near a window in your house. Some people have made a
    small compartment in their cabinet for clones and germination. This
    can be any size, but is kept small because you only want to just keep
    the clones alive. This small compartment will probably have one or
    two fluorescent lights in it for the clones. It would be best to keep the
    compartment at the top of the grow chamber near the exhaust fan. You
    do not need an intake fan for these clones unless it is a big set-up. A
    simple hole in the side will allow the plants to breathe. After the
    harvest, these clones are put into the grow room and the process is
    repeated. It is a Perpetual Grow. The legal term is a Marijuana
    Factory. You can harvest bud every 30 days if you have the right
    Your light can be air-cooled in a few ways. The most common
    way is to mount a 4" dryer flange on the hood and link from the hood
    flange to the exhaust fan flange with a 4" dryer hose. A fan can be
    mounted on the hood also.
    Figure 8.5 - This is a picture of a typical air-cooled system that can be
    purchased in most grow shops that sell grow lights.
    Figure 8.6 - Nice Frosty Bud by 'A Merry Caner'.
    As you can guess all of the above grow methods can be
    shaped to suit the grow room. Many a cannabis cultivator have turned
    entire rooms into a ScrOG or SOG grow. Size is totally up to the
    grower. For those who are happy with 4 ounces of dried bud every
    month a small SOG or Cabinet grow is the way to go. For those who
    want a bigger yield to last all year then a large ScrOG grow may be
    considered. Many a 5-ft. x 5-ft. ScrOG grower have delivered 30 to 50
    ounces of Marijuana every 2 months. When conditions are at their
    optimum level this can be achieved.
    An expert's indoor grow room would look something like this.
    14-ft. x 24-ft. area x 9-ft height. Several vertically suspended HPS
    lights would hang from the ceiling. The roof, walls, and floor would be
    covered in reflective material like flat white paint and Mylar. All
    lighting fixtures would be met at a junction box on the wall. Ballasts
    would also be attached to the wall. The plants would be placed on the
    ground in large container buckets inter spread between the lights
    hanging down. The room would also be completely light proof.
    Multiple air ducts and extraction fans would take the hot air
    out and pull the fresh air in. An Ozone generator would be in place to
    kill the smell and cannabis odor. Other items may be in place such as a
    CO2 generator, electrical generator, and even a light mover like a
    Light Rail III. A Light Rail is a horizontal light mover and there is a
    ‘Sun Circle' that the lights suspend from that move the lights in a
    circular pattern. This allows fewer lights to be used in covering a large
    grow area like this one.
    Figure 8.7 - This is a picture of a Sun Circle
    light mover.
    That is about the bones of what a professional grow room
    would look like.
    The objective of the perpetual grow is to keep most of the
    room flowering at all times. This means that while your plants are
    flowering you will have an equal amount of plants in the vegetative
    growth stage. So in essence, half the grow is in its vegetative stage and
    the other half is in its flowering cycle.
    As with most grow rooms, the grower will learn to make the
    best use of his/her grow space. The room will become an intense hobby
    area and a most rewarding one too. In time the grower may even begin
    to learn more about plant genetics and start to develop some strains of
    their own breed and stock. Soon the grower may find himself or
    herself entering competitions or even producing some of the finest
    seeds available on the market. As you know seeds sell between $20.00
    to $150.00 for 15 seeds. A breeder could soon find their hobby turned
    into a nice little income maker. In countries like Holland, Switzerland
    and Belgium seed production is already well underway. Canada is
    establishing a business and even trade
    Chapter 9
    As the grower begins to experiment with soil types and
    mixing them they may begin to look at alternative growing mediums
    such as rockwool or clay pebbles. These are mostly artificial grow
    mediums designed to contain all the plant's mineral needs and allow
    air to get the roots to promote good growth.
    Figure 9.1 - This is a picture of rockwool in various forms. You can
    see slabs and cubes in this picture. 'Grow Dan' is a popular brand of
    In the early days of experimenting with artificial grow
    mediums inventors found that plants just needed a suitable material
    that holds minerals, performs some form of drainage and allows air to
    get to the roots. If they could invent a non-toxic medium then the plant
    would surely grow as well as it would in soil. During most
    investigations they found that the roots did not respond too well to the
    mediums, but that the plant was receiving nutrition in every aspect
    when the nutrients were added to the artificial medium by hand. To
    solve this problem the inventors looked back into the history of
    growing. They found that many Ancient Civilizations where growing
    their plants directly in running streams. A light reed or bush was used
    to keep the plants stems above the rushing water. Of course the
    inventors knew that only certain types of plants could be grown this
    way. Then someone had the bright idea of creating a small unit that
    held water and had the medium and plant set-up in such away that the
    medium would support the plant above the tank that would feed water
    to the roots once they grew out from the medium.
    Figure 9.2 - Rockwool cubes are excellent for cloning.
    Figure 9.3 - This is the underside of a hydroponics system. Notice the
    root masses hanging down like fine clear strands. Root masses can
    really grow long in hydroponics systems. This image is by Shipperke.
    The method is called hydroponics and is a very successful
    way of growing marijuana if you are looking for large bud quantities,
    or bud all year long.
    Hydroponics is the technique of growing plants without
    soil, but rather in beds of sand, gravel, or artificial mediums that
    are flooded with a nutrient solution.
    Basically a simple hydroponics system consists of a pot, a
    reservoir, a grow medium, a pump and a set of growth nutrients. The
    system itself has a top layer and a lower layer. The top layer holds the
    grow medium and the bottom layer holds the water with added
    nutrients. The plant is grown in the medium where it will develop a
    stem and a set of roots. The roots will grow through the medium and
    down into the nutrient solution. Water and nutrients are pumped into
    the lower portion of the tank through a reservoir at certain timed
    intervals. The plants drink the solution down and thus expose their
    roots to the air more. If this it timed correctly and the growing solution
    is maintained the plants will flourish! This is because the plant can
    devote more of its energy into upper-body growth rather than putting
    that energy into roots searching for water and air. Now having said
    this, hydroponics produce massive root clusters and I mean a big mass
    of roots. One can easily pick up a 2-gallon bucket full of root growth
    from a single plant! This is because roots thrive in hydroponics
    Hydroponics has become a fast growing trend in cannabis
    cultivation. It does require a certain degree of maintenance, but the
    results are sometimes incredible. On the other hand if a hydroponics
    system is not well maintained the whole unit may fail and kill your
    plants very quickly. This is the biggest problem that the hydroponics
    grower has to contend with.
    Hydroponics, when done correctly, can produce a flowering
    plant up to 3/4 the normal time that it would take with a soil grow.
    That is right! Hydroponics can grow bigger and better buds in 3/4 the
    time it takes to grow the same strain in soil.
    There are many hydroponics systems out there but here are
    ones that are most commonly used.
    - Nutrient Film Technique - NFT
    - Flood & Drain - Ebb & Flow
    - Drip Irrigation System
    - Aeroponics
    - Automatic hydroponics Pots
    - Manual hydroponics Pots
    Figure 9.4 - This is a picture of an NFT system.
    An NFT system is an all-in-one system. In other words the
    reservoir which holds the pumps and nutrient solution is contained in
    the same system. These systems are generally very flat and long. There
    is a constant flow of nutrients to the roots and back to the reservoir.
    Figure 9.5 - This is a professional reservoir unit. It is light tight and
    contains perforations for pump attachments.
    Figure 9.6 - This is a popular Ebb and Flow system on the market
    today. All hydroponics systems can be used to grow cannabis.
    An Ebb and Flow is another all in one system that is
    recognized by its depth. The grow medium is located above the
    reservoir which pumps the nutrients and water to the roots at a set time
    and rate. This means that during the day the plant will go through
    spells of dryness. The nutrient solution is pumped into the medium
    and is slowly drained back into the reservoir again. The whole unit
    recycles the nutrient solution at timed intervals.
    The Drip Irrigation System is another all in one system that
    feeds the plants individually. The plants are located in separate
    chambers and the nutrients are fed to the medium by a small dripper.
    The solution is drained through much like an Ebb/Flow system.
    Figure 9.7- This is an example of an aeroponics system.
    Figure 9.8 - Aeroponics can be classified as a branch of hydroponics,
    but in recent years it has become something of a method in a field of
    its own.
    These systems are generally expensive and are used by
    professional growers. The unit itself can be recognized straight away
    by its design. The plants are grown in a medium that is placed into
    slots along a lengthy tube. The tubes can run anywhere from 1 meter to
    20 meters in length. Inside the tube are nozzles which mist down the
    roots of each plant with grow nutrients. The reservoir, which contains
    nutrients, is kept outside of the tube in a tank. The nutrients are
    pumped from the tank to the nozzles and then the remaining solution
    that drips from the plants is drained into another tank that is normally
    checked before being reused again.
    Figure 9.9 - An Aeroponics unit in use by Taffy Lewis.
    Figure 9.10 - This is a complete aerokit with over 20 plants. Picture
    by Taffy Lewis.
    Figure 9.11 - This is an example of an automatic and manual pot
    These are pots that are used for growing one plant at a time.
    In each pot a pump delivers the nutrients (or they are manually fed by
    hand), into the bottom of the pot until the nutrients reach the roots.
    The roots then suck up as much as they can until they are dry. Once
    the roots are exposed the pot is fed with more nutrient solution again.
    These units are good for the grower who wishes to grow big bushy
    cannabis plants in a simple stand-alone unit.
    This is the most important part of your hydroponics set-up.
    Your mix and the choice of nutrients will depend on whether your
    plant will die, grow, grow big, or grow very very big.
    Nutrient solutions basically come in a number of different
    forms. It is vital to check that the solution you use is the best for your
    type of plant. Some solutions are for soil and can only be used with
    soil. They contain the wrong elements for hydroponics use. There are
    soil-based supplements/fertilizers and then there are hydroponics
    Most hydroponics nutrient solutions are complete nutrient
    solutions. They provide every element and compound needed for
    proper plant growth. Because of this hydroponics nutrients are a bit
    steep in price. Always spend your money on the correct nutrients
    because any short cuts will lead to failure and kill your plant.
    Single Packs:
    If all the nutrients are contained in a single pack there is a
    chance that the elements may combine and precipitate in the pack.
    This may cause the solution to become unbalanced and is then
    rendered useless to you and your plants. Keeping this in mind, get a
    complete nutrient solution that is contained in several bottles called
    ‘Twin' or ‘Triple packs'.
    One brand name called Formulex has managed to hold all the
    elements in a single pack using certain chemicals to prevent
    precipitation. This pack is very good for starting clones or seeds in a
    rockwool SBS tray. Formulex can be used in soil grows also.
    Figure 9.12 - Formulex
    Twin / Triple Packs:
    Figure 9.13 - This is an example of triple pack nutrients.
    For best results the hydroponics grower should consider a
    Twin or even a Triple pack. Basically the chemicals are held in
    different packs to prevent precipitation. Optimum, Power Gro, Ionic,
    and General hydroponics Flora Series are the most common multi part
    nutrient solutions. The most popular one with cannabis cultivation is
    the G.H. Flora Series, a 3-part system - Gro, Micro, and Bloom. An
    experienced grower can adjust these nutrients to get optimum
    performance from their plants.
    These packs have instructions on the bottles explaining how
    to mix down the nutrients into water, and can be broken down and
    mixed weaker or stronger to the grower's needs.
    Depending on what set-up you are using, you may find that
    your solution goes through a system that uses the nutrients in the
    reservoir over and over. As the plant extracts the nutrients and
    minerals from the solution it will become depleted of its resources over
    time. For this reason we must understand how to monitor our
    nutrients. In today's world monitoring systems are a bit expensive. If
    you have a ppm reader (TDS meter, Total Dissolved Solids) you can
    understand how much of your nutrients have been used up and how
    much more you need to add to reach the optimal nutrient level. All
    reservoirs will become unbalanced and need replenishing. As a general
    rule, an initial amount is used to fill the reservoir. As the plants use up
    the solution, we top up the reservoir to maintain the initial level.
    If you start with 10 gallons of solution then we need to top up
    to that total of 10 gallons every few days.
    Figure 9.14 - Ppm reader (TDS meter).
    If you do not have a reader you can still grow a good crop, but
    it takes practice to get it right. If a cannabis hydroponics grower does
    not have a ppm reader, then they tend to replace the reservoir more
    often instead of topping it up. That way the grower is certain that the
    new solution will contain everything the plant needs. If you have a
    ppm reader then you only need to top off the reservoir as needed. PPM
    (parts per millionth) readers can be expensive, but over time they will
    help you save money on the cost of hydroponics nutrients.
    There are many hydroponics mediums to use that your plant
    will take root in. Rockwool appears to be the most popular and comes
    in either slabs or cubes. These cubes vary in sizes from 1" to 6" cubes.
    The slabs can be cut to suite the shape of your pot or container.
    Many growers like to use the cubes for seed germination and
    for rooting cuttings. This seems to be the easiest to use. Many growers
    claim that rockwool should be pre soaked for 24 hrs in water with a pH
    level of 5.6 (7.0 for soil grows). This is to stabilize the pH level of the
    How to make up nutrient solutions:
    Always follow the very simple instructions on the products.
    All you need is a container to make up the nutrients in and the
    nutrients themselves. Each of the packs should have A, B, and C
    written on them. The mixture is usually 3.5mls of A and B and C per
    liter of water. This is called a 100% strength mixture if you follow the
    guidelines as stated exactly on the label.
    Hydroponics pH:
    After you have mixed up your nutrient solution you will want
    to take a pH reading of it. If you have any problems, just like in soil
    growing, you will need to adjust your pH level. Now, you do not use
    the same method to adjust pH levels as described in the soil chapter.
    For hydroponics you need to buy a pH Up and pH Down adjusting
    solutions. These are cheap and can be added to your solution to
    balance the pH level.
    Cannabis plants in a soil system like a pH of 7, but in
    hydroponics systems they like a pH of 5.2 to 6.3. You will discover
    it is easier to maintain a pH range and not a set level.
    Figure 9.15 pH up and pH down products for hydroponics use.
    Always check your hydroponics pH level as often as you can.
    pH can slip up and down very quickly in hydroponics systems.
    Alga is part of a large group of non-vascular mainly aquatic
    cryptogams capable of photosynthesis.
    Always keep your container away from exposure to direct
    light, as alga will grow in the container if you do not. This seems to be
    something of a problem because we grow plants under lights and we
    may have a system that has to be sitting near the light so the plants can
    grow properly. Most hydroponics systems have been manufactured
    ‘light tight' to eliminate this problem. If you built your own system
    then you may want to keep your solution sealed from the light by using
    thick black PVC tape to cover the lid and the entire reservoir. This will
    help prevent alga from growing in your system.
    If you do have alga growth then you need to clean your system
    out. Wash the unit and replace the nutrient solution with a fresh mix.
    Also try to find the source of the light leak and patch it up. Using a
    thick black garbage bag works well to keep the light out.
    Grow and Bloom:
    Some of the double packs come in two different sets - Grow
    and Bloom. Basically the Grow solution is used during the plants
    vegetative stage and the Bloom is used during the flowering stage. The
    Bloom formulas contain more Phosphorus and Potassium and less
    Other packs have a complete all in one function, but they are
    lacking some additional extras.
    Cannabis may find a lot of the nutrients that are mixed full
    strength to be too strong and it will burn them. It is recommended that
    when using any hydroponics formulations with cannabis that you do so
    in MODERATION for your first grow. Many cannabis growers have
    bought these products with anticipation of producing great buds only
    to get great plant burns instead. It is best to start off with 30% strength
    at first and then increase if needed.
    Marijuana cultivators have found that full strength nutrient
    solutions are not a good thing. In fact even medium strength formulas
    have the power to burn your plants. Consult the information on the
    packs, but in general 3.5 mls of A and B and C per liter is usually
    called 100% strength. The same amount mixed with 2 liters of water is
    50% strength. Marijuana can grow very well between 30% and 50%.
    Never go full strength with your nutrients if this is your first time. Try
    30% for the first attempt and see how your plants do. You will be
    surprised at how rich a bud content you will produce with this amount
    of nutrients. The most common problem associated with hydroponics
    is plant burns. I have rarely heard of someone under-feeding his or her
    plants in a hydro system. I have heard plenty of reports about
    overfeeding plants in hydro systems. Over time you will get to know
    your strain and what it likes. The better you know your strain the
    better you will be able to control your feeding amounts.
    If you have scales in your bucket or what looks like kettle rust
    then you have not been maintaining your pH level. Scale is caused by
    very acidic pH levels. Your local water company will provide you with
    a read out of your water. You can buy nutrient products to use with
    hard water. If this problem persists just drain and clean your reservoir
    and mix a new batch of nutrients to the correct pH level. Some use a
    Reverse Osmosis water filtering system to clean their tap water.
    Distilled water has a stable pH level of 7.0.
    This is easy and not so easy. Beginners rely on a ppm meter,
    but a veteran grower learns to read the plant. The plant will tell you if
    is getting enough or too much or too little. It takes a few grows to learn
    to read the plant but you can do it with experience. The plant may
    have drunk all the nutrients up or just some of them. Some nutrients
    are taken up by the plant and stored within the plant until it needs
    more. A top up can be done if you do not want to change the reservoir
    totally. If you do not have a PPM meter to calculate this accurately,
    simply write down your nutrients mix ratio from day 1. Let's say we
    used 3.5 ml of A and B and C in a 1 liter drum. Now the plant has
    drunk 1/2 a liter, now all you need to do is make another liter of 3.5ml
    mix in another container and add 1/2 of it to the reservoir. This is one
    simple way of doing it, but you are left with a half liter of solution, so
    do your math and make a mixing chart so you can mix up different
    amounts as needed. Local grow shops will help you most of the time
    with any questions that you might have about their products.
    Growing in hydroponics is not rocket science. It is a simple
    process which can vary from system to system depending on what kind
    of a set-up you choose. Most of the nutrient mixes are explained
    extremely well on the packs. If you follow their instructions and
    remember that Cannabis only needs 30%-50% strength nutrients then
    you will do just fine.
    Over the years Cannabis cultivators have decided to try and
    beat the system by building their own systems. There are over 100
    different types of systems that can be made by hand at home. Out of
    these 100, 15 have proven to be useful for cannabis. One of the more
    famous simplest systems is DWC, Deep Water Culture, a.k.a "The
    Bubbler". This system is very cheap to put together and yet still
    provides excellent growth rates. There is nothing like it for the price.
    The bubbler is a rewarding way to grow.
    Figure 9.16 - A picture of a Bubbler with a young clone, by Strawdog.
    Basically the bubbler is just a bucket with a lid and pump. But
    the set-up is so extraordinary that it simply zings the plant into life.
    This method can grow a plant from 5 ft. to 8 ft. (if not more), with
    plenty of fresh buds as long as it maintained and managed well by you,
    the grower.
    Here is a list of what to you need to build the bubbler.
    The Bubble Bucket:
    (1) Get two 5-Gallon buckets with lids. (Wash it out with bleach)
    (2) Get a 6" Net pot.
    (3) Cut a hole in lid of bucket so the net pot sits in neatly all the way
    (4) Cut a hole in the lid about 2cm in diameter near the rim (the pump
    hose goes in here).
    (5) Use Black gaffer tape to wrap the pot so it is light proof. (If light
    gets in alga will
    develop in the water. This is not good.) Wrap the lid as well.
    (6) Get a fish-tank pump and air-stone.
    (7) Get your medium together - rockwool, clay pebbles etc.
    (8) Get the Nutrients and Mixes together.
    Figure 9.17 - A close-up of the net pot and lid by Strawdog.
    Simply mix your nutrients together in the second bucket. Set
    the air-stone in the center on the bottom of the first bucket and hang
    the air pump somewhere above the water level on the wall of your
    grow room. Use the hole in the lid to feed the airline through. Fill the
    bucket up with the nutrients to a level were the net pot just touches the
    solution. Turn on your air pump for 24 hours a day. That is it. The
    pump will send air through the tube to the air-stone and it is released
    into the water. The air bubbles the solution causing it to splash at the
    surface wetting the roots and feeding the plant. Check the bubbler
    everyday to see how much your plant has drunk. Let your roots get air
    everyday by letting a root zone form. Let the solution level drop an
    inch below the net pot. The net pot holds the cutting in rockwool and
    the rockwool is surrounded by the clay pebbles. Do not constantly top
    up your reservoir, it is sometimes better to let the water level drop 1
    gallon and then replace that gallon. Once a root mass has develop the
    plant will grow like no other.
    Figure 9.18 - A close-up of some early roots and underside of the netpot.
    Picture by Strawdog.
    Basically this set-up is just bubbling the nutrients solution
    with the pump. The pump sucks in air from the room and this air
    contains Oxygen that the roots need. As the unit bubbles the roots get
    air, nutrients and water. The plant loves this and thrives.
    When you want to change your mix you may have a spare
    bucket that is the same shape and size. Simply swap the lid over with
    the plant, root-mass and air-stone into the new bucket. This is a great
    little system that comes highly commended.
    Chapter 10
    Figure 10.1 - Outdoor night shot of a flowering Cream Sodica
    Cannabis Plant. Picture by X3n0. Plant by Breeder Steve.
    Many a smoker will say that the best cannabis they ever
    smoked was outdoor cannabis. This says a lot about natural sunlight
    and the outdoor environment. If you live in a climate that is warm
    enough for tomatoes to grow outdoors then you have the climate to
    grow some good weed. As an outdoor grower you may either choose
    your own back yard or a guerrilla grow in a woods or field. We have
    discussed this in a previous chapter before, so we will not go into what
    the two types are here.
    When you have found a plot that suits your needs you can
    then start to prepare your plot. Seeds that are planted in untreated
    ground will have a low germination rate. Also you need to think about
    when to grow. The months of March and April are very good times to
    start your plants because when your plants are mature and begin to
    flower it should be about August to September which is just about the
    time daylight hours start to decrease. So in April you want to find your
    grow spot. Try to remove as many weeds as possible during your grow
    plots preparation and do not leave heaps of earth around for people to
    notice. Carry the earth away in bags if you have too. You can then
    simply sow your seeds in the ground. Do not burry them too deep, a
    1/2" to 1" is fine. You may choose to add some pre-made soil to the
    patch which you have bought from the store. Again, find a soil with a
    NPK value where N is higher than P and K values. This is helpful
    because you will find that bag soil does not contain living masses or
    potential living masses such as weeds. Even though you may have
    treated your outdoor soil patch it may still contain seeds or spores from
    weeds and other plants. You will most certainly have to weed your
    outdoor area nearly every week during the initial stages of the grow.
    Figure 10.2 - Notice how in this picture that the
    area has been cleared of major weeds. This plant has
    little to no competition. Picture by Slowhand.
    After you have sown your seeds simply sprinkle some water
    over them. That is all you need to do. It is that easy. You do not need
    to adjust the soil pH yet or feed the soil. What you have done should be
    fine for starting seedlings.
    If Mother Nature does not provide water for your plants then
    you need to draw water and feed your plants when they need it.
    Some outdoor growers have got some cute ideas. Some
    growers germinate their seedlings indoors and place them into pots.
    They cut away the base of a pot and hold the bottom in using a piece of
    cardboard and sticky tape. They then go to their grow area and clear
    away the weeds. They then dig small holes and place the pots into the
    hole, removing the piece of cardboard before doing so. They then cover
    the edge of the pot so the pot can not be seen anymore. The roots will
    grow down through the hole in the bottom of the pot and into the
    surrounding outdoor soil. This method has the advantage that the
    seeds have already germinated. If you are a really cute grower then you
    will consider cloning all females and growing these in pots before
    transplanting the pot and plant to the hole in the ground outdoors.
    Amazing or what! You will have all female outdoor plants!
    It is also a good idea around the second week of vegetative
    growth to spray the area with some pesticide.
    Cannabis growing is really fun because the more you know,
    the more tricks you will invent by yourself to get the most out of your
    yields. Some of the best cannabis growers are very exotic with their
    grow methods. A number of people have even tried outdoor
    hydroponics to get their plants to grow bigger and better.
    When growing outdoors you need to keep your plants in good
    shape and free from any unwanted predators that may find your top
    cola and leaves to be quite tasty. We will talk about this in the chapter
    about pests.
    The best way to weed is buy hand. Do not attempt to add any
    weed killer to your grow area unless you know more about the weed
    killer you are using and how it reacts with cannabis. Some weed killers
    say that they will protect your plant and only kill the weeds around but
    this is not very agreeable with marijuana plants. If you want to test
    weed killers then it is suggested that you may create a small patch with
    one clone to see how the weed killer reacts with it. For now, do your
    weeding by hand.
    When you have weeded a grow area your plant will grow
    much better without having to worry about competition for light.
    Generally throughout the plants grow cycle you will have to weed the
    patch every week for the first 2 - 3 weeks and then once every month
    until as such time as the competition has been left truly and well
    behind. Some grow areas may be weed free in March, but come June
    the area may not seem like it has been weeded at all because of the
    speed of weed growth. Whenever you visit your plants make sure you
    pull up a few weeds as it does help.
    If you feel that your area is very dense with weeds then you
    may consider a ground cover. A ground cover is basically a cover that
    is placed on the ground with holes in it that the marijuana plant grows
    up through. Covers can be anything from plastic bin liners to sheets of
    paper. Of course this does not look good if you want to create a stealth
    grow area, but it does keep the weeds down.
    Figure 10.3 - Some outdoor seedlings by GrowerManiac.
    This is Mother Nature's job most of the time. All your water
    should come from the heavens. If you find that you have a drought or a
    long warm spell during summer then you may wish to carry some
    water to your grow area. If you have to trek over long distances then it
    is suggested that you fill a sack with plastic bottles of water.
    Some garden growers use sprinkler systems during dry spells.
    This is great but again may attract unwanted attention that you do not
    How much water your plant needs depends on how big your
    plant is. Some larger plants will require a minimum of a gallon of
    water per day.
    Natural loam soil will be able to hold water for anywhere between 4 - 6
    weeks before becoming extremely dry under the sun.
    Deep pockets of water may be held below the surface that
    would not be noticed by the grower on the surface. The best way to
    judge whether your plants need water or not is by the way they look. If
    they are wilting badly, then they need water. If not, then they may be
    okay. In general outdoor plants tend to wilt a small bit anyway during
    the summer months. If you want to really make sure that your plant
    has a water source underneath it, simply dig a small hole about a foot
    deep to the side of your plant but keep an eye out that you do not hit
    any major roots. Put your hand down inside the hole, does it feel dry?
    Or does it feel cool and moist? If it is cold and moist then the soil has
    stored some water below the surface. Your plants can drink this
    without problems.
    Figure 10.4 - Outdoor rooftop grow by Inf3cted.
    Nutrients can be added to the soil during the grow. Switching
    to a P feed during the flowering weeks will also help. Outdoor soil
    treatment is much like indoor soil treatment bar the weeding. For
    further information on feeding check the indoor grow chapters.
    If you have good sunlight and enough water then your plants
    will grow throughout the full cycle quite well. During the end of the
    flowering season you will be ready to harvest your plant and reap your
    Figure 10.5 - Another Outdoor rooftop grow by Inf3cted. These plants
    are not flowering yet because it is too early. This Sativa will start
    flowering in a few months time though. The gaps will fill up with bud
    and make the plant look full overall. Also this plant has been shaped
    by careful pruning.
    Figure 10.6 - Outdoor bud shot by BigIslandBud. Look at the frost and
    crystals on that cola. This plant is nearly ready for harvest.
    Figure 10.6 - This outdoor cola is ready for harvest. Picture by
    Chapter 11
    Cannabis plants will grow like most other plants and will
    eventually fill out into a Christmas tree shape towards the end of their
    flowering cycle.
    From its vegetative cycle to its flowering cycle the cannabis
    plant develops in three most noticeable sections. The top cola, the midsection
    and the base. The top cola will develop a large amount of bud
    and generally is a very flower-full part of the plant. The mid-section
    contains bud and stems along with old and new leaves. This section
    will fill with buds that grow in between the nodes near the stem.
    Although these buds will generally be smaller in size to the main cola
    they should be just as potent. The bottom section of your plant will
    contain the large fan leaves and a small amount of bud. Also towards
    the bottom of the plant you will see some very small leaves that are
    about to fall away and may look yellow.
    Once a grower knows about the plant's different sections they
    can treat each section to get the most out of their plant. The bottom fan
    leaves are generally not smoked and are used only to gather light for
    your plant. If your plant is growing under an artificial light source and
    you do not think that these fan leaves are receiving much light then
    you may think about cutting them away. This is NOT a good idea. Fan
    leaves produce sugar that is used in bud production. If you cut away
    the fan leaves you may cause your bud growth to stunt causing you to
    finish up with a smaller harvest. Leave fan leaves alone where and
    when you can.
    The only times when you should remove a fan leave is when it
    is either dying, badly burnt or covering a large bud mass. In a SOG or
    a ScrOG set-up you may want to remove a fan leaf or two because it is
    covering the bud mass of another plant. Light is the probably the most
    important factor in bud development and if the fan leaf is preventing
    light from reaching the bud, then you may want to remove it. Read the
    ScrOG section again about clipping leaves.
    You should remove any dead leaves from the
    bottom of your plant and throw them away. Never leave the dead
    leaves on your soil as a fertilizer. These dead leaves tend to attract
    unwanted pests.
    This really only applies to outdoor growers, but some indoor
    set-ups such as ScrOG, SOG and BOG may need to be thinned.
    Growers like to grow their plants in a uniform condition. That
    is - growers like all their plants to be the same height. That way we
    can perfectly arrange our light so that it is not too far away or close to
    the tops. If one plant is racy then we would have to adjust the light to
    suite that plant. This means that we may end up with light gaps like
    the following.
    -Distance from Plant A to light is 1 meter.
    -Distance from Plant B to light is 0.5 meters.
    -Distance from plant C to light is 8 inches.
    In this case you could imagine the plants in a slope shape in
    there grow environment. Obviously we are going to be wasting light,
    not to mention space on this set-up so we need to prevent this slope
    from happening. That is where thinning comes into play.
    The reason for the slope or curve is because some plants
    might tend to be a bit racy. Some of the plants will try to grow quicker
    than others to try and receive more light. If this happens the racy plant
    will cause the smaller ones beside it to receive less light. To control
    racy plants we use a process called thinning.
    If you discover a few racy plants then just cut them down to
    the same level as the others (called pruning) or remove them all
    together. Once you have done this you will see all your plants growing
    nicely along at the same level. Now, do not throw away the
    cuttings from the thinning before you read the next line. You can
    clone these cuttings into new plants!
    By the time you have finished your thinning you will have an
    even grow area with some clones that you can use to grow more bud.
    Now the other thing to remember is that some people may
    tend to thin the other way round. That is - leaving the taller ones and
    remove the smaller ones. Again in Cannabis growing the taller plants
    are generally male and the smaller ones are female if you have started
    from seed. Do you want a garden full of possible males?
    During the thinning process you may want to tackle some
    dead leaves or leaves that have some mould build up on them. Mould
    looks like a rust or fluff on the leaves and will most of the time spread
    to other parts of the plant. So why not cut these away too while you
    thin your grow area.
    Thinning your grow makes it look nicer and tidier and helps
    to improve your overall yield.
    Light Bending:
    Light bending occurs when a plant tries to grow at an angle
    towards the light. You may have seen some of the outside plants in
    your grow area bending towards the light to try and get their share. If
    your plants bend too much they will eventually grow towards (or even
    into) another plant. This is not good as they will cover other plants.
    Also during flowering the buds can get heavy and may cause your
    plant and pot to fall over. To avoid light bending simply switch your
    plants around from day to day. If a plant leans too much one way, then
    take it towards the middle of the pack or turn the plant around. It only
    takes a day or two for the plant to bend back straight again. If your
    plants can not be moved, such as in the case of hydroponics in
    conjunction with a ScrOG grow, then you may have to tie your plants
    up so that they do not bend.
    Figure 11.1 - Here is an example of some tied up buds.
    If you are outdoors and you have a massive problem with this
    then you may have to cut away some surrounding foliage to allow
    more light to get in at your plants. If you can not do this then try to use
    a small stake and thread, such as bamboo, to keep your plant upright.
    Remember that if your plants are bending then they are trying to tell
    you something. They need more direct light!
    Many a marijuana cultivator have taken a pair of clippers to
    the top of their plant just above the last branch formation during the
    3rd or 4th week of vegetative growth. The top is removed by shearing
    it away at the stem. This can also be done during the thinning stages.
    What happens next is that the main stem may split off in two or more
    directions. This creates a V shape at the top of your plant. The end
    results after flowering are two or more top colas instead of one. Now,
    many a cannabis grower will tell you that this is a great thing to do
    and sometimes it is. Two top colas instead of one does sound appealing
    but alas it must be said that this TOPPING method of pruning does not
    always work out the way you think it will.
    Figure 11.2 - The results of Pruning by Chrisesq.
    Figure 11.3 - Single cola picture by anonymous.
    Figure 11.4 - This is a good example of what a young topped plant
    looks like. As you can see the main stem has been clipped to produce 2
    new stems. Picture by Strawdog.
    Sometimes the plant will produce two small top colas instead
    of two big ones. This really depends on the strain and the
    environment. Many a grower have managed to bring a plant into
    growing more than six top colas by this method. Each strain will have
    a threshold for bud production, which can not be improved on. Some
    plants when grown fully without pruning do not reach their threshold.
    The strain Blueberry is a good example of this. If you grow blueberry
    without topping you will not achieve maximum bud production from
    that plant, but if you do top the blueberry you will. Other strains are
    not so flexible and by topping you will not increase bud production.
    The two top colas will simply be sharing the same volume of bud that
    a single cola would have produced on the same strain. So pruning for
    production is strain related and grow related. You need to find a strain
    that responds well to topping.
    It is advised that you experiment with this pruning method.
    Do this with 2 out of 10 females with every grow you do. You will find
    in time that during this vegetative prune you will be able to shape your
    plant. Plants are generally pruned 3 - 4 weeks into their vegetative
    cycle but can be pruned sooner or later or more than once. Pruning
    during flowering will cause problems with bud production because the
    plant will divert its energy from bud production into branch and leaf
    production. The results will be a slower rate of Bud growth.
    Remember how we spoke about Indica plants being small and
    Sativa plants being tall. Well if you learn to prune your plant right you
    can generate small bushy Sativa plants that grow in tiny spaces.
    Without pruning the Sativa plant it will probably stretch to five feet
    and more.
    For every stem or branch you prune, the cut area will develop
    two more branches. Look outside at any tree. See how the stem divides
    into branches which sub-divide into more branches which divide into
    new shoots and leaves. Well some marijuana plant only grow a main
    branch out from the stem and this may stay that way throughout its
    entire grow. Any filling out usually occurs when new leaves and
    branches develop at the nodes. Some lateral branches may develop new
    shoots but these are somewhat small and thin and do not support much
    bud growth. If we prune our plant we can make it more like the tree
    that we see in the garden. There is also a limit to how much we can
    prune. Let us follow a prune path for a moment.
    If we prune the stem, it will split into two. We can prune both
    these two new stems and end up with four stems. We may try to prune
    each of these four stems to try and create eight stems, but this depends
    on the strain and its branching limit which is genetically based. We
    may be able to prune some of the lateral branches but again if the plant
    has reached it threshold it will not produce more new branches. All
    strains are different in this respect.
    Prune cuts are made using clippers at a 45-degree angle to the
    shoot being cut.
    Some people like to keep their plants small and wide.
    Cannabis plants are great for making bushes with. It is a simple
    process. During the 3rd week of vegetative growth prune half the
    plant's branches and leave the other half. Never remove all the
    branches. Cannabis plants need at least 50% of the leaves to continue
    growing without fatal stunting problems. If you go less that 50% you
    may end up killing them. Do not prune just one side of the plant.
    Prune per side to achieve the 50%. You may also prune the main top
    cola if you wish the cola to split into two or more parts.
    Wait until the 4th or 5th week of vegetative growth and prune
    the other half. (Only do this if the prune cuts you previously made
    have grown new branches and leaves.)
    During the seventh week of vegetative growth you will notice
    that your plant has become more concerned with growing outwards
    than with growing upwards.
    Let us pretend that we have a plant with 8 shoots. That means
    it is 4 nodes high. We perform our pruning as described and we end up
    with 16 shoots, but our plant is still 4 nodes high. Now this does not
    mean that we can keep doubling our shoots forever. Pruning just
    pushes the plant to grow all its shoots early. If you keep pruning up
    until the eighth week of vegetative growth with a plant that is 4 nodes
    high, the most amount of shoots you will get will be about 32. They do
    not really go beyond this factor much, but again this is strain
    dependent. Now each new shoot has a junction point or a node that it
    grew out from. Each node should produce some bud during the
    flowering stages. It is more than possible to create a marijuana plant
    that droops down over the sides hiding the pot. Not only that but
    different strains grow in different sizes. It is more than possible, with
    the right strain, to have a single plant cover an entire desk using this
    This has been discussed before in the indoor growing set-ups
    with ScrOG and SOG. Training is simply the art of tying down your
    plant's main stem so that it grows in a ‘S' shape pattern. Mainly this is
    used to prevent plants from reaching their natural height without
    pruning (although you can also prune trained plants without a
    Training is done by simply attaching a piece of thread to the
    stem and bending the plant over. The thread is then locked down to
    either another part of the stem or a piece of the grow room frame.
    People have managed to grow all kinds of shaped plants using this
    method - from corkscrew shapes to complete full circles. Some
    growers even like to grow their plants horizontally across during the
    vegetative stage of growth. During the flowering cycle the light is
    moved above the plant to encourage thicker bud growth along the
    main stem. Sometimes this method does not work so well, but when it
    does the overall bud production can be excellent.
    If during your training a stem should break simply hold it in
    place again using a stake/stick support and bind it with cheese cloth or
    a cloth bandage wrap with pours. Applying honey to the wound also
    has its benefits. If you rub honey into the wound the plant should be
    able to heal itself a bit quicker. Watch out for any new growth at the
    break area and try to trim these away should any be produced because
    they will try to break away the upper part of the stem, effectively
    TOPPING your plant.
    Figure 11.5 - Picture of a Stem Break by Slowhand.
    Increasing Yield:
    The yield is the amount of smokables that your plant will
    produce at the end of its grow. Now at this stage you should have a fair
    idea of the following.
    The history of Cannabis, how it is used, different species and
    strains, THC, types of seeds and where to get them. The life cycle of
    the marijuana plant, how to germinate seeds, propagation,
    transplanting, male/female sexing, basic indoor/outdoor/guerrilla
    growing, security, Lights, light spectrum, HID, Lumens, soil types pH,
    soil nutrients, pots, watering, environmental control, soil flushing, Air,
    12/12, flowering, SOG, ScrOG, Cabinet growing, hydroponics,
    hydroponics nutrients, the bubbler, outdoor growing and plant care.
    With this amount of information you should be armed to the
    teeth and ready to tackle any ideas about where you want to grow, how
    much you want to grow and what you need. So the question may still
    be in your mind - "Can I actually grow marijuana?"
    Many people can grow it without a problem. How many
    people can grow good thick potent bud? Now that is the question!
    You see this is what Marijuana cultivation is all about. How
    much you know and the more you know the better the results will be.
    This hobby is so interesting that it is more addictive than the substance
    produced at the end of the day (marijuana has no physical additive
    properties but growing it is so rewarding that you may become
    addicted to growing!). I know plenty of growers who gave up smoking
    pot and yet continue to sit at home and develop new strains. It is a very
    addictive hobby.
    The more you grow the more you will learn about what your
    plant needs. The two most fundamental factors in high yield growth
    are - Strains (good genetics) and Light.
    Optimal light along with good strains will lead to great yields
    and bud plentiful plants. Of course high yields may not mean highly
    potent bud. Potency depends on the strain and how your plant is
    grown, remember.
    Many a grower have found that some of the grow bloomers
    and advanced feeding products actually produce greater amounts of
    bud but reduce the potency and produce a different taste. To
    understand which feeding products are better to use than others
    requires a degree of experimentation on your part, but experimentation
    is what growing is all about. To discover new methods of growing the
    marijuana cultivator MUST experiment and through FAILURE learn
    Cloning is a simple method of replicating your plants. In most
    cases a clone is taken from a mother plant and grown out into a whole
    new plant. The clone will contain the exact same genetic code as its
    mother plant.
    Figure 11.6 - Picture of some clones in soil by Slowhand.
    Figure 11.7 - Picture of some clones in a
    hydroponics starter kit by Mia Stoner.
    In a selection of 30 seeds you may find a nice mother plant
    that you wish to keep. You can keep here genetic profile indefinitely by
    cloning her.
    Figure 11.8 - Picture of a clone that has just been cut from a mother
    plant by Slowhand.
    Any cannabis plant can be cloned once it has been grown to a
    certain height. The best place to take a cutting for cloning is above a
    node which has at least 2 nodes above it. The smallest cuttings on
    average are 3" in length.
    Once the cutting has been taken it is placed in the growing
    medium and should form new roots over the next week to three weeks
    Cloning straight to soil has a low success rate. Leaving clones
    in water also has a low success rate. The best medium for cloning is
    rockwool cubes or Oasis foam bricks.
    Not only that but in order to increase your success rates with
    cloning you may wish to purchase some rooting solutions such as
    Clonex ($3) which can be bought from most grow shops.
    Figure 11.9 - Picture of homemade clone chamber by Tick.
    Make sure that you use a clean instrument, or even better a
    sterile instrument, when you make your cut. Take the cutting and dip
    the cut area into the rooting solution before placing it in the medium.
    Clones do not need much light to root. Try to avoid using the bigger
    grow bulbs for cloning. A simple window with some outdoor light is
    all that you will need for that clone to root. Many people use Fluro
    lights for clones.
    Figures 11.10 - Clones can be kept in small places, by Tick.
    When the clone takes root in the rockwool you will see the
    roots jut out from the sides of the cube. When this happens the clone is
    best transferred to its new grow medium, which can be soil,
    hydroponics or aeroponics.
    This is the most successful way of producing clones on the
    market today. You may even live in a country where the trade of
    cannabis clones is legal. The great thing about cloning is that you can
    create 100's of female plants from one single female.
    Here is another method of cloning called Air Layering written
    by Strawdog.
    How to air-layer a clone.
    Match sticks or toothpick
    Razor blade
    Rooting hormone (Clonex)
    Plastic wrap
    (1) Sterilize all your cutting tools before using them.
    (2) Find a branch that is at least 1/8 inch thick with a minimum of two
    (3) Use the Razor Blade to split the branch vertically / lengthwise.
    (4) Use tweezers to open the slit. Do not break the branch totally.
    (5) Get ‘clonex' and apply it to the open wound. Tape a matchstick
    parallel to the stem for support.
    (6) Pack the open wound carefully with any grow medium, or use a
    rockwool cube to cover the area (just split the cube down one side and
    slide over the branch).
    (7) Wrap the area with the small plastic bag. The effect of this should
    be a funnel shaped plastic wrap enclosure.
    (8) Pack the bag with grow medium before closing with tape.
    (9) Use a pin to create holes around bag. This will allow the
    soil/medium to receive air.
    (10) Use an eyedropper to keep the soil wet. Do this everyday. After 2
    weeks your cutting will have developed roots and you can cut away the
    branch below the roots. Now you have a clone with roots ready for
    growth. You can choose to remove the plastic bag if you feel that it is
    too tight to allow all the roots to pass through it.
    Chapter 12
    Predators and pests will always be a problem. Here are some
    Predators and Pests that you may encounter during your grow. Along
    with their names we have also explained how to get rid of the
    unwanted pest.
    Also it must be said that a cat for a garden grow is the #1
    defense system against most small predators, but an indoor cat will
    bring unwanted pests into the house! You can not have the best of both
    worlds. Cats also like to play with indoor plants so be very careful with
    your plants and pets!
    Only use repellents and pesticides that are clearly marked for
    FOOD PRODUCTS USE on the label. If it is NOT FOR FOOD
    are going to be smoking your plants later. You do not want to end up
    in a hospital because of smoking poisoned bud. If it is safe for FOOD
    PRODUCT USE then it will be safe to smoke. Read the products
    instructions clearly and carefully. Do not take short cuts. Do exactly
    as it says on the label.
    Figure 12.1 - Woodchuck.
    Woodchucks will nibble your stems and collapse the plant.
    The way to solve this is by using predator urine (Also see Deer) or by
    building a very small mesh fence around the bottom of your outdoor
    plants. This will keep the chucks from eating your stems and branches.
    Use more than one rap of mesh and make sure that you keep it tight.
    Also planting Marigolds near your grow will help keep the chucks
    Like to lay their eggs in your bud and stem. They can reduce
    your plant to nothing in weeks. You need a pyrethrum-based
    insecticide to keep them away. Ask your local grow shop for
    information on this product. It will also help keep away other insects
    such as mites.
    Figure 12.2 - Rabbit
    Rabbits can reduce a crop to nothing in a couple of days and
    will continue to feed from the same patch until they are stopped or the
    patch is destroyed. For more details See Woodchucks.
    Figure 12.3 - Groundhog.
    (Also see Woodchucks.) Dry chlorine helps keep Groundhogs
    away from your plants. Find any Groundhog holes near your grow area
    and apply the dry chlorine around the hole.
    Fusarium Oxysprum is rare, but still a problem in some parts
    of the world. This fungus wilts your plants and will eventually kill
    them. You actually need to get a fungicide from your grow shop. If
    they don't have it, then you need to order it over the Internet.
    Figure 12.4 - Deer.
    Deer are so very curious that even electric fences will not stop
    them over time. In order to solve deer problems you need to get hold of
    predator urine from hunting shops. Find out which urine works best
    with deer to keep them away. However find predator urine which does
    not attract plant-eating animals. Simply spray the urine on your patch
    and this will help keep the deer away.
    Figure 12.5 - Grasshopper
    Harmless unless in large numbers. (Also see Powder Bugs).
    Figure 12.6 - Caterpillar
    The only sure way to get rid of cutworms is to use a cutworm
    repellent. Try to find a product that works on cutworms and cutworms
    only. All of these cutworm products work very well and can be bought
    in most grow shops.
    Figure 12.7 - Whitefly
    Deadly. Can reduce your plant to trash in days. Safer's soap
    helps to kill Whitefly. This can be bought in most grow shops. (Also
    see Powder Bugs).
    Figure 12.8 - Snail
    Make a circle of table salt about 4 feet away from base of your
    plant. Then make another circle a foot in from that. Salt is deadly to
    snails and slugs and will keep them out.
    Figure 12.9 - Mites
    Deadly. Can reduce your plant to trash in 2 - 3 days. (See
    Powder Bugs).
    See Powder Bugs.
    They don't like water. If you over-water the soil around your
    plant they will leave. (See Powder Bugs).
    Figure 12.10 - Ant
    Will make a home out of your grow for their nests. (See
    Powder Bugs). They are also a sign of Aphids - ants farm aphids!!!
    Ants can be removed using Boric Acid, or any popular 'colony killer'
    Figure 11.11 - Aphids, picture by Vic High.
    See Powder Bugs.
    See powder Bugs
    See powder Bugs.
    It does happen that sometimes the bugs win. No matter how
    much you might spray them or try to kill them, they keep coming back
    to your grow room. To solve this you will have to create a clean room,
    which means a total and complete cull of your harvest.
    First set-up another grow room of smaller size enough to
    support some cuttings and clones. Take cuttings from what plants you
    have and move the cuttings to that room. You will use the cuttings
    again eventually in your clean grow room if you want to continue those
    Next up take all the grow equipment, bar electrical
    equipment, to the bathroom. Clean down the entire equipment with
    bleach. Fill a tub with water and bleach and let the grow equipment
    rest there for a day.
    Back to the grow room. First start with the walls. Clean the
    walls down with bleach if you can. You will maybe have to paint them
    again after. Do the corners, up high and clean out any holes, extraction
    holes, fittings, pipes, etc. Then clean around the rim of the room. If
    your floor can be lifted up then you can also do this to get in at the
    corners a bit better.
    After this cleaning has been done you can consider smoking
    the room. Various pest killing smoke bombs can be bought in most
    grow stores. Follow the instructions carefully and smoke bomb the
    room. This will guarantee the demise of any bugs, eggs or larvae but
    remember eggs are usually safe from these sprays, that is why they
    recommend a reapplication 7-10 days after initial treatment- MAKE
    Once this is done, clean the room again like you did the first
    time. Now you should have a clean room, free off pests. Repeat the
    process if needed. The more you clean it, the better it will be.
    Electrical items should be dusted down before returning them
    to the grow room. Dry down your other grow equipment which was
    bleached and return this to the grow room.
    Your cuttings need to be checked for bugs. Also you do not
    move the cuttings back to the grow room until you have taken cuttings
    from these cuttings. Grow the cuttings out for a week or two and check
    them everyday for bugs. If you find any then you may have to use a
    pesticide on the cuttings. When you are sure that your cuttings are
    clean, take new cuttings and place them in new soil and clean pots.
    Take these to your grow room and watch their progress and look out
    for any signs of pests and bugs.
    If you have done this correctly then you should have
    eliminated all signs of pest infestation in your grow room.
    Mites and other small pests can lay their eggs in cuttings and
    these can be missed when you look for pests because they are not
    obvious. The pesticides should have killed them, but some pests like
    the powder bugs lay their eggs inside the stems and seem to always
    come back. If you can't get rid of bugs like this then you may have to
    toss your genetics away and get new ones. For breeders this can be a
    difficult task. A long term project can be terminated by a few bugs
    wreaking havoc in the grow room. Breeders should pay strict attention
    to keeping their grow rooms clean at all times. And remember - Never
    take anything that has been outside into your grow room.
    Chapter 13
    Got a problem that you need to identify? If common sense
    does not solve it then it sounds like you have a feeding problem and
    want to know how to sort it out. Well this is what this chapter is all
    Before we begin we should tell you what a chemical burn is.
    A chemical burn is what the plant suffers because of over-feeding. A
    chemical burn can be compared to a half-smoked joint. At the tip of
    the joint you have this shriveled gray ash, in the middle you have the
    burn creeping towards new paper which leaves a pattern behind it, and
    then you have the part you have not smoked yet. A plant burn looks
    like this almost. The plant sucks up the water and the food. It
    distributes these elements to the leaves at the bottom first and then
    works its way up the plant. This process takes days to work as you
    know FROM WATERING and WHEN TO WATER! The damage
    starts at the tips of the leaf and slowly moves to the center of the leaf,
    leaving behind it some crispy matter that flakes away between your
    fingers. This is what a chemical burn looks like. A nutrient problem
    does not look burnt. A nutrient problem looks like a cell collapse with
    discoloration. The part may wither and die, but it should not look
    burnt. That is major difference between a chemical burn and a nutrient
    problem. In time you should be able to tell the difference for yourself.
    Also check your pH. If your pH is not right, then solve the pH
    problem before you go and do anything else.
    A) Look at your problem and quickly search for any bugs. When you
    have completed this search, eliminate any bug problems by using the
    advice in the bug chapter. Also note the type of attack to make sure
    that it is not a bug problem AND is a nutrient problem, which can
    happen. Do your leaves look sucked and dry? Do you have any black
    dots on them like bugs? Try to tell the difference between a bug attack
    and a nutrient problem. Nutrient problems damage the plant on a
    somewhat consistent level. Bug attacks are less consistent in the
    damaged generated. They leave damaged patches everywhere on your
    If the problem seems to affects only the lower portion of your
    plant and or a bit of the middle then read B). If it is only effects the top
    of your plant and the tips then you should go to J). If the plant is
    covered with the problem then go to F).
    B) If your plant is in vegetative growth and the leaves are going very
    yellow, then you need more Nitrogen. If your plant is in flowering and
    you have stunted growth, yellow leaves and it looks to be dying then
    you need more Nitrogen. If your plant is in flowering and does not
    look like it is dying but looks red or dark green/yellow then you need
    to treat it with more P, which is Phosphorus. If these do not help then
    go to C.
    C) If your plant has leaves that are curling up, twisting and are going
    yellow then check to see if your light is burning them or if the grow
    chamber has enough air circulation. If this is fine then you need to
    consider adding more Mg which is Magnesium to your plants. Epsom
    salts are good for this. Add 1/4 - 1/3 table spoon of Epsom salts to 3
    gallons of water is fine. If you still have a problem go to D).
    D) If the tips of the leaves turn brown and curl slightly then you are
    looking at a K problem which is a Potassium problem. If not, move
    onto E.
    E) Does your plant look wilted? Maybe you over-watered? If not, go to
    F) The veins are green, but the leaves are yellow. This is an Iron
    problem, Fe. If not, move on to G:)
    G) Leaves are not twisted but are yellow at the base. The tips are fine.
    This is a Manganese problem, which is (Mn). If not, move on to H).
    H) Still haven't solved it? Then flush your soil and find another type of
    plant food that has all of these. N, P, K, Ca, Mg and S. Get Epsom
    Salts and get a small canister of micronutrient. Iron, boron, chlorine,
    manganese, copper, zinc, and molybdenum. Try using a nutrient
    mixture that we have already mentioned before in the indoor feeding
    section. If this doesn't solve your problem, then maybe you have one of
    the following:
    Your plant has outgrown the pot. The entire root mass would
    have grown to its maximum capacity. This causes stress and a variety
    of problems. The only cure for this is a bigger pot.
    Well...what can we say causes this..Hmm there are a number
    of things. If you followed H) right then you should not have this but we
    will explain it anyway. Lockout occurs when the plant can not get
    access to a nutrient or a group of nutrients. This could be caused by the
    absence of nutrients (a deficiency) or by a chemical reaction in the
    medium/solution that causes a toxic substance to block the roots, or
    causes a chemical reaction that creates another substance that changes
    the chemical properties of the other nutrients. As you can see this is
    really a very open subject matter. pH problems can lockout nutrients,
    your soil type can lockout nutrients, your water can even lockout
    nutrients. But these lockout causes are rare and more than likely
    something other than what cannabis needs has been added to the
    solution causing this reaction. When in doubt, transplant into fresh
    soil or a fresh hydroponics solution.
    Yep, there is a lot of garbage out in the market. Crap genetics
    do exist and people still buy them. The genetics may have mutations,
    warping, flowering problems, a weakness in them or poor germination
    rates that will sometimes cause nutrient symptoms to appear even
    though your nutrient problem does not exist. The only solution is to get
    some new genetics.
    Chapter 14
    Harvesting is the act of reaping your rewards and is without a
    doubt the most fun you will have with your garden. First of all you
    should know that harvesting smells. It stinks up the place really
    quickly, so keep this in mind. Now you will have followed the
    guidelines that the breeder set forth with his or her seeds about the
    flowering times. At the end of the flowering time examine your bud.
    Keep what you see in mind because now you will be able to judge other
    plants to know if they are finished or not. You do not really need to
    know the breeder's flowering time if you have been able to understand
    and identify a bud that has reached maturity. Here are some things that
    help identify when to harvest. Some of these things do not appear on
    every strain though.
    - 50% to 70% of the pistils change color.
    - Your plant stops producing crystals.
    - Your plant stops producing resin.
    - The fan leaves and lower leaves have turned yellow and are starting
    to drop off.
    - The smell has reached a peak.
    - Bud mass has not increased in the past few days.
    These are good Indicators that your plant is now ready for
    harvest. There is only one sure way to harvest your plant and anything
    else is pretty much a variation of it. Also we must add that harvesting
    an Indica plant and a Sativa plant have slight differences.
    Your 1 foot - 4 foot plant should he hacked at the base. The
    plant should then be hung upside down in a cool room, with no light
    and fresh air. Take a pair of clippers out and remove as much of the
    fan leaves as possible. Then remove the secondary leaves and put these
    into a separate pile. Last but not least gather some trim from the bud.
    “Trim” is the small leaves that are covered in resin. Now you have 4
    different qualities of weed to choose from. The fan leaf will only be an
    okay smoke, the middle leaves a little better and the trim will be very
    good. The BUD is the PRIME stuff though and this will give you your
    best quality high!
    Leave the plant like this until a branch can break easily
    between your fingers. When it does you are ready to cure the Bud. This
    harvesting process takes about two to three weeks to properly finish.
    This is much like the Indica except the harvest itself may be
    quite labor intensive. Outdoor growers like to grow Sativa plants
    which sometimes grow up as far as 12 feet carrying over 20 oz of bud
    sometimes. These plants are not harvested easily. You need a canvas
    spread or another medium that you can use to carry the bud in. The
    plant should be chopped at the base and spread out on the canvas. The
    canvas is then rolled up and tied down tight for transport. Obviously if
    you have more than one plant then you might need more than one
    canvas sheet.
    The plant should then be hung upside down in a cool room,
    with no light and fresh air. Because of the plant's size and bushiness
    you may have to cut the branches and hang these up separately. Take a
    pair of clippers out and remove leaves and trim as suggested in the
    Indica Harvest section.
    It must be pointed out here that light degrades THC
    quantities. Your room does not have to be as light- proof as your grow
    room does during 12/12. Just don't expose your harvest to any direct
    These are cured by leaving them dry on a flat surface, away
    from direct light and with plenty of fresh air. The leaves will dry up
    after 3 weeks and are easily smokable at that stage. Test them out to
    see what you liked and what you did not like. Another thing you could
    do with the trim is to make some hash from it. We will talk about this
    in another chapter. Do not try to speed up your drying process with
    ovens or microwaves or heat. Let them dry out normally and you will
    cure yourself a much better smoke from the leaves.
    As soon as the branches are brittle you should consider
    canning your bud. Canning is a great way to get the most from your
    bud. Find a can with a removable lid. The more cans you have the
    better. Using a pair of scissors, clip your bud from the branch and put
    it into the can. The branches and stem are not much good to you. They
    do contain THC, but only in small quantities. Most stem and branches
    go in the bin.
    Now take the can and place it a room or cupboard that is
    dark. Everyday open the lid for a few hours (6 hours is good) and then
    close the lid again. Also shake the bud around a bit every couple of
    days. This is the most common curing technique out there and it does
    do its job well. Bud that is cured well smokes the best! I would give the
    canning process between 3 - 4 weeks before you should really sample
    your goods. 8 weeks old bud can smoke extremely well and year old
    bud is vintage stuff but can loose potency. Fresh bud (8 weeks canned
    curing) is the pinnacle point of cured bud. After that some of the THC
    cannabinoids change composition and become different cannabinoid
    compounds. Fresh bud is far better than aged bud. You may find other
    curing processes out there, but canning does work wonders and is
    cheap to do.
    If you have dried your plants for three weeks while hanging
    upside down you can subtract that time from the canning time to know
    when you should be in for a bit of smoke. Although you can have good
    bud to smoke two weeks after you harvest it is better to wait for four
    weeks or more.
    Chapter 15
    Before we begin breeding we will keep it simple for those who
    want to learn how to perform simple breeding procedures and then we
    will make it a bit more advanced.
    Let's go the simple route first. We may want to produce seeds
    from our crop to continue a strain that we purchased or obtained. By
    breeding two plants we can produce seeds. You are breeding to
    continue a strain here but you will not completely replicate the plants
    again unless they are IBL (To be explained later), but you will
    generate seeds that contain most of the parents' features but maybe not
    all. Some of your offspring should be like the parents but other
    offspring will show different traits such as potency, color and taste.
    How easy is it to make seeds? Well it is easy if you have
    healthy plants and a stable-growing environment. When your male
    plants burst their pollen in your grow room they will pollinate the
    female flowers. At the end of flowering the bud will contain seeds. The
    seeds should be grayish in color. If they are white, then they are not
    viable and you harvested them too early. Wait until the end of
    flowering to get your seeds. Your seeds will be in with the bud. It takes
    quite a bit of time to sort them out from the bud. If you want to use the
    seeds in more than 2 years time store them in a freezer. Before that
    time storing them in a small film canister will work well enough.
    Film canisters are a great place to store pollen in. You can
    save pollen in a canister for the next harvest. Pollen can be stored in
    the freezer for around 18 months. The odds of having pollen keep
    though are slim. Pollen is best used up to 6 months. The pollen can be
    extracted from the male flower as soon as the flowers are ready to
    open. You will see the male flower open out from its pod. It is best to
    gather pollen after it falls from the pod onto the leaves. Simply shake
    the pollen onto the female flowers to pollinate them.
    Want to breed your plants to make more seeds? Well this
    depends on what you want to do. Do you want to create a new strain?
    Then move onto the basics of genetics section. Do you want to create
    some seeds that are similar to the parents or do you want to create a
    cross of two plants to create a Simple Hybrid strain? Then read on.
    So you bought $120 Silver Haze seeds and you want to make
    more seeds without any interference from another strain? That is easy.
    Just make sure that the male plants and the female plants are together
    from only the same strain batch. Do not introduce another strain into
    the pack. If you only have Silver Haze in your grow room, then all you
    need are some males and females. By letting the males pollinate the
    females you will get Silver Haze seeds. But you will loose some of the
    features that the original parent plants had in the selection of
    offspring, unless the strain you got was an IBL.
    It is easy, just take a male plant from one strain and a female
    from the other. Say Big Bud and Skunk. The result will be BIG BUD
    X Skunk, but there will be differences in the pack. Some of the plants
    will lean more in the BIG BUD direction and some in the Skunk
    direction. Some variations that where not present in the parents may
    also appear (if the parents where not both IBL). If you want to
    concentrate on creating more seeds so that they ONLY go in one
    direction (creating uniform plants) then you need to read more in this
    Genetics are somewhat difficult to understand at first so it is
    best if we give you a grounding in some of the breeding concepts
    mentioned in this chapter.
    We will start by first explaining what a couple of words mean.
    These words will appear throughout this chapter so it is best to define
    them at this point.
    Each of the units of heredity which are transmitted from parent to
    offspring in gametes, usually as part of a chromosome, and control or
    determine a single characteristic in the offspring.
    [There are genes responsible for each feature of your plant to be
    inherited, for leaf color, stem structure, texture, smell, potency, etc.]
    Any of a number of alternative forms of one gene.
    [For example the Gene for purple bud color may have 2 forms, one for
    purple and one for dark red.]
    An individual that has identical alleles at one or more genetic loci,
    which is not a heterozygote and so breeds true.
    [Your plant is to be said homozygous for one feature when it carries in
    its responsible gene pair the same gene twice, which means both genes
    of the gene pair are equal.]
    An individual having different alleles at one or more genetic loci.
    [Your plant is said to be heterozygous for one feature when the genes
    of the responsible gene pair are unequal.]
    An organism distinguishable from others by observable features.
    [How your plant looks is the phenotype. It is the summary of all the
    features you can see on the outside of your plant. It can also be smell
    and taste.]
    The genetic constitution of an individual, esp. as distinguished from
    the phenotype; the whole of the genes in an individual or group.
    [How your plant looks like inside, which features it can possibly
    inherit - you can't see those - is called the genotype. It is the summary
    of all genetic information which your plant carries and can inherit to
    its offspring.]
    Of a gene or allele: expressed even when inherited from only one
    parent. Of a hereditary trait: controlled by such a gene; appearing in
    an individual to the exclusion of its allelic counterpart, when alleles
    for both are present.
    [A gene is said to be dominant when its effect can be seen in the
    phenotype of your plant. Only one dominant allele in the gene pair
    must be present to be seen in the phenotype of your plant].
    Of a gene, allele, or hereditary trait: perceptibly expressed only in
    homozygotes, being masked in heterozygotes by a dominant allele or
    [A gene is called recessive when its effect can not be seen in the
    phenotype of your plant, when only one allele is present. The same
    allele must be present twice in the gene pair if you can see its
    expression in the phenotype of your plant.]
    A position on a chromosome at which a particular gene is located.
    A threadlike structure of nucleic acids and protein which carries a set
    of linked genes and occurs singly in prokaryotes and in characteristic
    numbers, usu. paired, in the cell nuclei of higher organisms.
    All of life is made up of a pattern of genes. This pattern is
    similar to the two sides of the zip on your jacket. One side is from the
    mother, the other is from the father. Each "gene locus", a particular
    space on that chain, controls one bit of information about the eventual
    appearance of the plant.
    Each gene locus contains 2 genes, one from the mother, one
    from the father. A pair of letters such as BB, Bb, Pp, pp, etc generally
    notates these. Capital refers to dominant genes while lower case refers
    to recessive. B can Big bud while b can be smaller bud. This is just an
    example. The letters refer to a human beings imaginary reference for
    what a specific gene locus controls. Any letter can be assigned to it.
    Dominant and Recessive:
    Individual genes within a locus are said to be either dominant
    or recessive. This is noted by a capital letter for a dominant gene and a
    lower case letter for a recessive gene. Dominant genes have a stronger
    effect and if only one is present, will win over the recessive gene in
    that locus.
    For example the B gene means the plant will produce big bud,
    while the b gene means the plant will produce small bud. Since B is
    dominant a plant with a Bb genotype will produce Big Bud. The B is
    dominant over the b. In order for a recessive gene to have an effect,
    both genes must be recessive, so BB is Big Bud, and Bb is Big Bud,
    but bb will be small bud.
    Modifying Genes:
    By breeding we can determine.. Let's say... what the color of
    the plant's bud will be, or more importantly, what color the offspring
    of two plants is going to look like. The final appearance however will
    be the result of more than one gene locus. Plants may have several
    color genes for different parts of the plant. A plant's genetic structure
    is quite complex.
    Partial Dominance:
    Now that we have explained the basics of dominant and
    recessive, you can move on to the next step.
    Some gene loci in plants have more than two possibilities.
    These are sometimes referred to as ‘partially dominant genes' and are
    usually given some type of secondary marker such as B' or B".
    They work just like dominant and recessives except that there
    are more than two options. If a gene is dominant over another gene, it
    will win. Just like a dominant will win a recessive.
    An understanding of breeding concepts requires a basic
    understanding of Hardy-Weinberg's Equilibrium. Breeding depends
    upon the knowledge of population genetics. To understand the value of
    the H/W Equilibrium, you may have asked yourself a question like this
    “If certain diseases are a dominant trait, then why haven't
    large sections of the population got this disease?”
    The same question applies to cannabis breeding. If purple bud
    color is a dominant trait then how come my offspring from the purple
    bud strain do not have purple buds? Or, I have been selecting Indica
    mothers and cross breeding them with mostly Indica male plants but I
    have some Sativa leaves. Why does this happen? Hardy-Weinberg's
    Equilibrium will help you to understand these questions and there
    Okay, first of all these questions reflect a very common
    misconception. That misconception is that the dominant allele of a
    trait will always have the highest frequency in a population and the
    recessive allele will always have the lowest frequency.
    There is no logic behind the idea that a dominant trait should
    show a tendency to spread over a whole population. Also there is no
    logic behind the idea that a recessive trait should die out.
    Gene frequencies can be in high ratios or low ratios no matter
    how the allele is expressed. The allele can also change, depending on
    certain conditions. It is the changes in gene frequencies over time that
    result in different plant characteristics.
    Hardy-Weinberg Equilibrium will show us whether or not
    gene frequencies have changed in a population.
    A population is a group of individuals of the same strain or
    species, [such as cannabis Indica or cannabis Sativa (species), or
    Skunk#1 and Master Kush (strains of a species)], in a given area
    whose members can interbreed with one another. This means that they
    share a common group of genes. This common group of genes is
    known as the GENE POOL.
    Each gene pool contains all the alleles for all the traits of all
    the population.
    For a step in evolution to occur some of the gene frequencies
    must change. That is why we have different types of cannabis plants.
    The gene frequency of an allele refers to the number of times
    an allele for a particular trait occurs compared to the total number of
    alleles for that trait.
    Gene frequency is calculated as follows.
    The number of a specific type of allele, divided by, The total number
    of alleles in the gene pool.
    The Hardy and Weinberg principal describes a theoretical
    situation in which there is no change in the gene pool. This means that
    there can be no evolution.
    For a test example let us consider a population whose gene
    pool contains the alleles B and b. Assign the letter c to the frequency
    of the dominant allele B and the letter d to the frequency of the
    recessive allele b.
    [In most cases you will find that c and d are actually notated
    as p and q by convention in science, but for this example we will use c
    and d.]
    The sum of all the alleles must equal 100%.
    So c + d = 1.
    All the random possible combinations of the members of a
    population would equal (c x c) + 2cd + (d x d). Which can also be
    expressed as:
    (c+d) X (c+d)
    We will explain this in detail in moment, but it is best to know it for
    The frequencies of B and b will remain unchanged generation after
    generation if:
    1. The population is large enough.
    2. There are no mutations.
    3. There are no preferences. For example a BB male does not prefer a
    bb female by its nature.
    4. No other outside population exchanges genes with this model.
    5. Natural selection must not favor any specific individual.
    Let us imagine a pool of genes. 12 are B and 18 are b. Now
    remember The sum of all the alleles must equal 100%. So this means
    that the total in this case is 12 + 18 = 30. So 30 is 100%.
    If we want to find the frequencies of B and b and the
    genotypic frequencies of B, Bb and b then we will have to apply the
    standard formula that we have just been shown.
    f (B) = 12/30 = 0.4 = 40%
    f (b) = 18/30 = 0.6 = 60%
    Both add to make 100%. Now we know their ratios.
    c + d = 0.4 + 0.6 = 1
    We have proven that c + d must equal 1.
    Very straightforward, yes.
    Remember that all the random possible combinations of the members
    of a population would equal (c x c) + 2cd + (d x d), or (c+d) X (c+d)
    Then, c + d = 0.4 + 0.6 = 1
    And (c x c) + 2cd + (d x d)
    = BB + Bb + bb
    = .24 + .48 + .30 = 1
    This means that the population can increase in size, but the
    frequencies of B and b will stay the same.
    Now, suppose we break the 4th law about not introducing another
    population into this one.
    Let us say that we add 4 more b.
    b + b + b + b enter the pool. This brings our total up to 34 instead of
    30. What will the gene and genotypic frequencies be?
    f (B) = 12/34 = .35 = 35 %
    f (b) = 22/34 = .65 = 65%
    f (BB) = .12, f (Bb) = .23 and f (bb) = .42
    Oppss, .42 does not equal 1. This means that the Equilibrium law fails
    if the 4th law is not met. When the new genes entered the pool it
    resulted in a change of the population's gene frequencies. However if
    no other populations where introduced then the frequency of .42 would
    be maintained generation after generation.
    However we would like to point out that we used a very small
    pool in the above example. If the pool were much larger then the
    number of changes, even if one or two new genes jumped in, would be
    insignificant. You could calculate it, but the change would be on an
    extremely low level 0.000000000001 of a difference in reality.
    This is just as basic example to get you started. It may not
    make complete sense at first but if you read on then it will fall into
    place. Some of you may be asking the question.
    How do I know if a trait, such as bud color is Homozygous Dominant
    (BB), or Heterozygous (Bb) or Homozygous Recessive, (bb)?
    If you have been given seeds or a clone you may have been
    told that a trait, such potency is Homozygous Dominant, Heterozygous
    or Homozygous Recessive. However, you will want to prove this to
    yourself. Especially if you are going to use that plant in a future
    breeding plan. You will have to do what is called a Test Cross.
    Determining the phenotype of a plant is fairly
    straightforward. You look at the plant and you see its phenotype.
    Determining the genotype can not be done through visible observation
    alone. The genes themselves are somewhat hidden except for their
    visible related phenotypes.
    Again there are three possible genotypes that the plant can
    create. Let's say golden bud is dominant and silver bud is recessive.
    Here is the table.
    Homozygous Dominant: BB = Golden Bud.
    Heterozygous: Bb = Golden Bud
    Homozygous Recessive: bb = Silver Bud.
    (The Golden and Silver bud colors are the phenotype. The b and B are
    genotype notations.)
    The reason why Bb is golden and not silver is because B
    dominates b.
    Most phenotypes are observed characteristics but some things
    like bud taste are also phenotypes that can not be observed. If we look
    at a Mostly Sativa species like a Haze plant we will notice that it is
    pale green. Now in a population of Haze plants we may notice that one
    or two out of one hundred maybe dark green and not pale green. This
    suggests that the dark green color is recessive. We are not totally sure
    until we have completed the test but the gene frequencies suggest this.
    We may also notice that the bud is golden on most of the plants so this
    suggests that the golden bud color is a dominant trait. Some of the
    buds on only a few of the plants may be silver. This suggests that the
    silver trait is Recessive (bb in our example).
    We know that the only genotype that produces the recessive
    trait is homozygous recessive (bb). So if a plant shows a recessive trait
    in its phenotype, its genotype is probably homozygous recessive.
    A plant with a recessive trait always has a homozygous
    recessive genotype.
    But this leaves us with a problem. Is the Golden bud or pale
    green leaf color a Homozygous Dominant (BB) or is it Heterozygous
    So now is the time to perform the Test Cross. Any test cross is
    a cross of an organism with an unknown dominant genotype (like in
    our case) with an organism that is homozygous recessive for that same
    To do this test we need another cannabis plant of the opposite
    sex that is homozygous recessive (bb) for the same trait. So we will
    stick with bud color as our example. Hey, we have a few silver bud
    plants around that we think are recessive. Let's use them and see what
    happens. We pollinate the female plant (Does not matter if the female
    is dominant or recessive one), and we get our seeds and plant them. 3 -
    7 months later we see the results.
    This brings us to the next important rule that we will learn.
    If any of the offspring from a test cross have the recessive
    trait, the genotype of the parent with the dominant trait must be
    We will explain why in a moment and this will all make
    sense to you. Also we must mention that we should be talking about a
    large population here. 1000 plants is a good population to be sure with.
    100 plants are good but 20 or less can be dodgy.
    The more plants we use the more reliable our results will be.
    In our example, our unknown genotype is either BB or Bb.
    The Silver genotype is bb.
    Let's put this information into a mathematical series known as Punnett
    We start by first putting in out known genotypes (above). We
    only do these calculations for 2 parents that will breed. We know that
    our recessive trait is bb and the other is either BB or Bb, so we use the
    term B? for the time being. Our next step is to fill in the box with what
    we can calculate.
    The first row of offspring Bb and Bb will have the dominant
    trait of Golden Bud. The ?b and ?b can either be Bb Bb, or bb bb. This
    will either lead to an offspring that will produce more golden bud (Bb),
    or silver bud (bb). There are 2 possible outcomes. Let us fill in the 2
    possible values of ? and see that this is true.
    The first possible outcome is where ? = B. This means the all
    are offspring will have Golden bud.
    The second possible outcome is where ? = b. This means that some of
    our offspring will have golden bud (Bb) or Silver bud (bb).
    The first possibility proves that there is no way we can
    produce silver bud in the offspring.
    The second possibility proves that we will have some golden
    bud and some silver bud. Not only that but we can understand clearly
    what the frequency will be. Count them!
    Bb + Bb = 2Bb
    bb + bb = 2bb
    2 out of 4 will have golden bud. 2 out of 4 will have silver bud. Half
    our offspring will have silver bud! The ration is 50:50.
    The second possibility tells us a number of things.
    (1) Both parents need at least one b trait each for the silver bud to pass
    on if it is a recessive trait.
    (2) If any silver bud is produced in the offspring then the mystery
    parent B? must be Bb. It can not be BB.
    Homozygous Dominant: BB = Golden Bud.
    Heterozygous: Bb = Golden Bud
    Homozygous Recessive: bb = Silver Bud.
    So if the golden bud parent when crossed with a silver bud parent
    produced only Golden Bud, then the parent must be Homozygous
    Dominant for that trait. If the parent produced any silver bud then it
    must be Heterozygous.
    The rules are:
    1. The plant with the dominant trait is always crossed with an
    organism with the recessive trait.
    2. If ANY offspring show the recessive trait, the unknown genotype is
    3. If ALL the offspring have the dominant trait, the unknown genotype
    is homozygous dominant
    4. Large numbers are needed for reliable results.
    And this is your first step into the world of breeding because:
    (1) When you breed plants you want to continue a trait. Something
    that you like to see on your plant or taste with your plant or the height
    of your plant.
    (2) When you want to continue that trait you must know if it is
    Homozygous Dominant, Heterozygous or Homozygous Recessive.
    (3) You can find that out by running a test cross.
    So the question may arise - How do I breed for several traits,
    like taste, smell, vigor and color? Well that is a big question. Maybe to
    understand more about that we should learn more about Hardy-
    Weinberg Equilibrium.
    Hardy-Weinberg Equilibrium Part 2
    If we mate two individuals that are heterozygous (e.g., Bb) for
    a trait what will we find? (Let's make the Punnett square).
    Look at that. In this group our resulting offspring will be:
    1 BB,
    2 Bb,
    1 bb
    This means that:
    25% of their offspring are homozygous for the dominant allele (BB).
    50% are heterozygous like their parents (Bb) and
    25% are homozygous for the recessive allele (bb).
    Now look at this closely. Unlike their parents Bb Bb, 25%
    will express the recessive phenotype bb. So if we where given two
    parents that displayed golden bud but where BOTH heterozygous for
    that trait Bb, we would also produce offspring that have silver bud. But
    since Bb is dominant in both parents, neither of the parents would
    display the phenotype for silver bud.
    This is really what breeding is all about. When we have a
    strain that we want to keep, how do we know that the parts we want to
    keep will actually be kept in our breeding process?
    This is where the test cross comes in. If we create seeds from
    a strain that we bought in a seed-bank how can we be sure that the
    offspring will have the character that we like? Well the facts are this.
    If the trait(s) we wish to continue are Homozygous Dominant (BB) in
    both the parent plants then there is no way we can produce a recessive
    genotype for that trait in the offspring. We already explained this in
    the previous section.
    Let's prove this:
    Look! It is impossible for the recessive trait to appear.
    And if both parents contained the recessive trait we can not
    produce the dominant trait. Let us see this in action too.
    There we proved that too.
    So now we are starting to understand that in order to breed a
    trait properly we must know if it is Homozygous or Heterozygous or
    Homozygous Recessive before we can understand what it is we are
    this ladies and gentlemen is what breeding is all about -
    Understanding a trait's genotype, predicting the outcome of a cross
    and LOCKING DOWN TRAITS. So how can we lock down a trait you
    might ask? Well we will cover this later after we understand a bit more
    about this subject matter.
    Gregor Mendel (1822-1884) was an Austrian monk who
    discovered the basic rules of inheritance by analyzing results from his
    plant breeding research programs.
    He noticed that 2 types of Pea plants gave very uniform
    results when breed within their own gene pool and not with one
    another. The traits he noticed where:
    (This is not a Punnett square. Just an example to show the different
    phenotypes seen in two different Pea plant strains.)
    He noticed that the offspring all carried the same traits when
    they breed in with the same population or gene pool.
    Now since there where no variations in with each strain he
    guessed that both strains where homozygous for these traits. Because
    the pea plants where from the same species Mendel guessed that either
    the Solid seed shells where recessive or the wrinkled seed shells where
    recessive. So he used the genotype notations (SS for solid, ss for
    wrinkled). He knew that they could not be Ss, because one lot did not
    produce any of the other strain's phenotypes when they breed within
    their own gene pool.
    Let's explain this via 2 basic Punnett squares where SS = Pea plant#1
    for the trait of ‘solid seed shells' and ss = pea plant#2 for the trait of
    ‘Wrinkled seed shells'.
    That was Pea plant#1 results. All the offspring will be SS.
    That was Pea plant#2 results. All the offspring will be ss.
    The First Hybrid Cross:
    Mendel made his first hybrid cross between the 2 strains. The
    results where all solid seeds! Here is the chart below.
    Now up until this point he did not know which trait from
    which plant was recessive or dominant. But since all the seeds where
    solid, then he knew that Pea Plant#1 contained the dominant genotype
    for seed shape and that Pea Plant#2 contained the recessive genotype
    for wrinkled seeds. Also he knew that Pea Plant#2 contained the
    recessive genotype for seed shape. This means that in future TEST
    CROSSES with other pea strains, he could determine if a seed shape
    trait is Homozygous or Heterozygous because he had identified the
    recessive trait (ss).
    Remember the rules of test crosses to determine this? Here
    they are again.
    1. The plant with the dominant trait is always crossed with an
    organism with the recessive trait.
    2. If ANY offspring show the recessive trait, the unknown genotype is
    3. If ALL the offspring have the dominant trait, the unknown genotype
    is homozygous dominant
    4. Large numbers are needed for reliable results.
    So the offspring from the last Punnett square where all Ss.
    When he crossed 2 parents from the bunch of offspring he got the
    following results.
    What he has done here is to mate 2 individuals that are heterozygous
    (e.g., Ss) for a seed shape trait. In this group the resulting offspring
    will be:
    This means that:
    25% of the offspring are homozygous for the dominant allele (BB).
    50% are heterozygous like their parents (Bb) and
    25% are homozygous for the recessive allele (bb).
    Bingo! Remember this a few pages back?
    In his first cross to create the hybrid plant Mendel ended up
    with NO recessive traits for seed shape. But when he crossed the
    offspring because they where heterozygous for that trait he ended up
    with some having the recessive trait, some having the homozygous
    trait and some continuing the heterozygous trait.
    In correct breeding terms his first cross between the plants is
    called the F1 cross or F1 generation. The breeding out of those
    offspring is called the F2 cross or F2 generation.
    Now since he has Ss, ss and SS to work with you can probably
    do the Punnett square for each to see how they will work out. It would
    be a good time to test your knowledge on this. Compare your results
    with what you have learned about ratios in this chapter and you will be
    able to see how it all fits together. It is really very simple once you
    know a few rules......but like most things there are exceptions to the
    Back to frequencies:
    We know that if two heterozygous parents are crossed that the
    ratios will be 50/50 with regards to the allele (Remember the genotype
    can be Ss, SS or ss, but the allele is either S or s. Look at the table
    below when we cross two heterozygous parents and count the alleles.
    We can see S S S S (4 x S) and s s s s (4 x s).
    If we break them apart we can see this clearly.
    Again, we know that if two heterozygous parents are crossed that the
    ratios will be 50/50 with regards to the allele.
    Now remember Equilibrium? Where we consider a population
    with a gene pool that has the sum of all the alleles equal to 100%, but
    we may have different ratios? Such as 80% have S and 20% have s or
    60% have S and 40% have s. Well maybe we should look at where
    these laws collapse and where they fail to work as expected.
    There are five reasons when the law of equilibrium fails to work.
    These are:
    1. Mutation
    2. Gene migration
    3. Genetic drift
    4. Non-random mating
    5. Natural selection
    Let us go through each one.
    A mutation is the change in genetic material, which can give
    rise to heritable variations in the offspring. In nature maybe exposure
    to radiation will do this. In this case the result will be a mutation of the
    plants genetic code and thus when it breeds with the same population
    it is effectively a ‘Migration' of foreign genetic material. Even though
    nothing new has been added into the population from an outside
    population, the mutation of one single plant will act just like another
    strain that migrated into the gene pool.
    Gene Migration
    When we deal with a population of plants we refer to a group
    of plants that breed within themselves without any interference from
    an outside population. Over time a population will reach equilibrium
    and this will be maintained as long as no other population migrates to
    this one. When another population is introduced it will cause new
    genes to enter the pool. This is called ‘Introgression'. During the
    process of introgression many new traits will pop up in the population.
    Genetic Drift:
    If the population is small equilibrium may be violated. By
    chance alone certain members will be eliminated from the population.
    We will find that the frequency of an allele will DRIFT towards higher
    or lower values.
    Non-random mating and Natural selection:
    This suggests that something external may influence a
    population to a stage where mating is not random. If some flowers
    develop earlier than others then they will gather pollen earlier than the
    rest. If some of the males release pollen earlier than others then the
    mating is not random. Or maybe all males release their pollen earlier
    resulting in some of the later flowering females ending up as a
    sinsemilla crop. This means that these late flowering females will not
    make their contribution to the gene pool. Again equilibrium will not be
    With regards to natural selection the environment may cause
    a problem with a section of plants. If this section does not survive then
    they will not be able to make a contribution to the gene pool. If this is
    the case and if selections are made so that other plants do not make a
    contribution then we know that trait frequencies can be controlled to a
    certain degree. And the ability to control the frequencies of a trait is
    Breeding cannabis strains is all about manipulating gene
    frequencies. Most strains that are sold by reputable breeders through
    seed-banks are very uniform in growth. This means the breeder has
    attempted to lock certain genes down so that the genotypes of those
    traits are homozygous.
    If we can imagine for a moment that a breeder has two strains
    - Master Kush and Silver haze. The breeder lists a few traits that they
    like. * Donates the trait that they like.
    This means that they want to create a plant with the following features
    and call it something like Silver Kush.
    Now all the genetics that they need are in both of the gene pools for
    Master Kush and Silver Haze. We could just mix both populations and
    hope for the best or we could try to save time, space and money by
    calculating the genotype for each trait and using the results to create a
    The first thing the breeder must do is to understand the
    genotype of every trait that is featured in his/her ‘ideal' strain. In order
    to do this the genotype of each parent strain or population for that
    same trait must be understood. Since there are 4 traits that the breeder
    is trying to isolate then 4 x 2 = 8 Genotypes for these phenotype
    expressions must be made known to the breeder.
    Let us take the Pale Green Leaf of the Silver Haze for starters.
    The breeder will grow out as many Silver Haze plants as they can find.
    They will then note down if any of the population have any other leaf
    color trait. If not, then the breeder will note that the trait is
    homozygous (We will call the trait - M). Now it can either be MM or
    mm. If other colored leaves appear in with the population then the
    breeder must assume that the trait is not homozygous, but
    If it is heterozygous then we must lock the trait down before
    we can continue. This is done through selective breeding. Let is look
    closely at the parents for a moment.
    If both parents where MM we would not have seen the
    variations in the population for this trait. It is a locked down trait. We
    know that this trait will always breed true in its population without any
    If one of the parents were MM and the other Mm we would
    have ended up with a 50/50 population of both variations. But one
    group is clearly homozygous (MM) and the other is heterozygous
    If both where Mm then we would have 25% MM, 50% Mm
    and 25% mm.
    Even though we can see the frequencies we still do not know
    if the Pale green leaf trait is Dominant or Recessive, but we can find
    this out by performing A Test Cross.
    Now we are not going to go through the Test Cross chapter
    again but we can show you how to isolate the genotype that you need,
    which is either MM or mm because we want to breed that trait true.
    We must also keep track of the parent plants being used here.
    To keep parent plants alive, clone them! The exact same
    genetic material will be passed on from clone to clone.
    In this this cross do you see MM offspring and the mm
    offspring? Well by their very nature they can not be the same. By
    running several Cross Tests we can isolate the plant that is either MM
    or mm and break away anyMm from the group. Whether it is MM or
    mm, we can still breed the trait true by breeding it with other parents
    that are onlyMM or mm respectively. So we may have to do several
    test crosses to find a male and female that have either MM or mm for
    that trait. Once we have done this we have isolated the genotype and it
    will breed true within the same population.
    So if we ran a seed-bank company called “PALE GREEN
    then the seeds that we create will ALL breed PALE GREEN LEAVES
    and the customer will be happy. In reality though they want the exact
    same plant that won the cannabis cup last year.....or at least something
    close to it. So we will have to isolate all the traits that helped that
    strain of cannabis to win the cup before people are happy with what
    they are buying. I think you get the point.
    How many tests it takes to know the genotype is not certain.
    You may have to use a wide selection of plants to achieve the goal, but
    never the less it is still achievable and much more so than nonselective
    breeding in the wild. Each trait must be locked down in a
    population, so that the population for that trait is homozygous. The
    next step is to lock down other traits in that same population.
    Now here is the hard part.
    When you are working on a trait you must keep the other traits that
    you are looking for in mind.
    By breeding alone you may accidentally lock down another
    trait that you do not want or even remove traits that you want to keep.
    If this happens then you will just have to work harder at keeping the
    traits that you want and exploring genotypes through multiple Cross
    Tests. Eventually through selection and keeping records you will end
    up with a plant that is true breeding for all the features that you want.
    The gene pool is there but the objective is to lock down the traits of the
    pool. Also by keeping your own records you will be building up your
    own little map of cannabis genes. For instance if someone grows
    Blueberry from a known breeder and asks what the berry taste
    genotype is, you might be able to tell them a little bit about your
    experiences and what you found. This may help them cut corners.
    Maybe one day we will be able to genetically map cannabis and
    everything will be much easier.
    Also a breeder never sits back and says “Right! I am going to
    be on the lookout for all 1000 traits that I want.” That is crazy. What
    they need to do is concentrate on the main phenotypes that will make
    their plant unique in some way. Once they have locked down 4 or 5
    traits they can them move on. Step by step is how True breeding
    strains are created. If anyone says that they developed a true breeding
    strain in 1 or 2 years then you can be sure that the genetics they started
    with where somewhat true breeding in the first place. (Known true
    breeding strains like Skunk#1 and Afghani#1 have taken 20 years to
    get to the stage they are at now.)
    Eventually you will have your Silver Kush strain but only
    with the 4 genotypes that you wanted to keep. You may still have a
    variety of non-uniform plants in the group. Some may have purple
    stems, others may have green stems, some might be very potent, and
    others might not be so potent. By constantly selecting new traits that
    you want to keep, you can manipulate the strain into a totally true
    breeding strain for every phenotype. However it is extremely unlikely
    that such a strain exists on the market that is 100% true breeding for
    every single phenotype. Such a strain would be called ‘A perfect IBL'.
    If you are able to lock down 90% of the plant's phenotypes in a
    population then you can claim that your plant is an IBL. I think in
    today's world that this would be an acceptable % to reach.
    The core Idea behind this technique is to find what is known
    as a ‘Donor' plant. A Donor plant is one that contains a true breeding
    trait (homozygous Dominant) for that trait. The more lock down traits
    are homozygous Dominant the better are your chances of developing
    an IBL.
    IBL is short for In Breed Line. This does not mean that the
    line of genetics will be true breeding for every trait, but in general this
    terminology (IBL) used by breeders does refer to a strain as being very
    uniform in growth for a high % of the strain's phenotypes.
    Let us use the example of hamsters. In a litter of hamsters we
    may find that they all have the same phenotypes. If that population
    reproduces and no other phenotypes crop up then we can consider the
    fact that these hamsters come from an In Breed Line. If the hamsters
    continue to breed and all show the same traits without variation then
    we know for certain that the gene pool has been locked down.
    There are some breeding techniques that you may like to
    know about. These techniques can seriously breach the law of Hardy-
    Weinberg's Equilibrium. Which in our case can be a good thing
    because it will reduce a trait in a population or promote a trait in a
    population. The strain MAY not be true breeding for the selected
    traits, but it will certainly help make the population more uniform for
    that trait.
    Our first cross between the Master Kush plant and the Silver
    Haze is known as the F1 hybrid cross. Let us pretend for the moment
    that both traits are homozygous for leaf color. The Haze is pale green
    the Kush is Dark Green. Which one is MM or mm we do not know?
    Until we see the offspring.
    This F1 cross will result in hybrid seeds. Now since M is
    dominant over m, then we will know which color is more dominant
    and from which parent it came from. In the example let us pretend that
    the overall results are pale green. This means that the pale green allele
    is dominant over the dark green.
    M = Silver Haze pale green leaf trait is dominant.
    m = Master Kush dark green leaf trait is recessive.
    But we also know that because no variations occurred in the
    population that both parents where homozygous for that trait. However
    ALL the offspring are heterozygous.
    Now here is where we can take a big short cut in manipulating the
    gene pool for that population.
    By cloning the parent plant MM, we can use this clone in our cross
    with the Mm offspring. This is known as a BACKCROSS. Obviously
    if our parent is female then we will have to use males from the Mm
    selection in out backcross.
    Now our first backcross will result in 50% being homozygous for that
    trait (MM) and 50% of the offspring being heterozygous (Mm) for that
    If we did not backcross but just used the heterozygous offspring for the
    breeding program we would have ended up with:
    which is 25% Homozygous Dominant (MM), 50% Heterozygous
    (Mm), and 25% Homozygous Recessive (mm).
    So backcrossing will seriously control the frequencies of a specific trait
    in the offspring.
    The first backcross is simply called A BACKCROSS. Now let us see
    what happens when we do our second backcross using the same
    PARENT that we are keeping alive through cloning. Our second
    backcross is referred too as SQUARING.
    Since we are dealing with only 2 types of offspring Mm and MM we
    will either repeat our results.....
    Which is the same as our results from our first backcross. Or.........
    All the offspring will be MM and thus true breeding for that trait.
    Those offspring are the results of squaring. We have not really cubed
    anything here, but this is a good example to get you started because it
    shows how we can manipulate a population by backcrossing.
    Cubing in reality is less controlled than this. Cubing is a way
    of increasing the frequency in a population for a certain trait. It MAY
    not result in true breeding but it will promote a trait in a bunch of
    plants. Also the actual selection process is somewhat random.
    In a population we select a mother plant that we want to keep
    because of her features. In the same population we gather pollen from
    50% of the males that have characteristics similar to the mother plant
    and 50% that do not. The pollen is mixed in their respective portions.
    So we have two packets of pollen in the end. We must clone the female
    to create 2 females. We then use the 2 packets of pollen on each clone
    When we grow out the offspring from the two females we will
    select the population of the offspring that mostly resembles the mother
    plant traits that we are looking to promote in the population. What
    happens is that the best male pollen should have been selected by the
    female as the one that she prefers. The reason for taking the 2 sets of
    pollen from 2 sets of males is to create a control experiment to show
    how this method actually interferes with the frequencies of the gene
    pool. By right, your selection of poor male pollen will only bring about
    a poorer quality population that do not resemble the female clone.
    In reality we only select pollen from the best males that most
    resembles the female when we use this method.
    Do you remember one of the laws that breaks equilibrium?
    Non-random mating and Natural selection. Well that is what we are
    doing here.
    The resulting offspring should have a high frequency for the
    traits that we like in the mother plant.
    The problem is that we do not know which male from the
    bunch is the one that WON this female over, but it is quicker and less
    time consuming in creating a strain that is somewhat uniform for a
    specific trait.
    By repeating the process we can help increase the mother
    plants trait frequency in the offspring's population but we will
    probably end up with some plants that are non-uniform for that trait.
    The best way to achieve this process is as follows. Find a
    female that you like and clone this female and her male parent. Take
    pollen from the male parent and pollinate the female. The offspring
    should contain a 50%/50% of the genes for both parents.
    Take pollen from the males of that offspring and mix them
    together. Pollinate a clone of the mother. This step should insure that
    selection is no longer random and you are promoting the frequency of
    the mother's traits in the next offspring.
    Repeat the process two more times and you will have
    effectively CUBED (meaning backcross x 3) this strain. This can push
    the mother plants traits as high as 90% in a population but we will
    probably get some non-uniform plants in the offspring too.
    Cubing does not really help us to select for traits that we
    want, like in our Silver Kush experiment. It simply helps us to keep a
    few traits that a mother plant has. Cubing is a common procedure
    adopted by breeders who find a good healthy mother plant in a
    selection of seeds that someone has given them.
    This method can also fail very quickly if your selection of
    males are the wrong choice.
    Selfing is the ability for a plant to produce seeds without the
    aid of another plant. This refers to hermaphrodite plants that selfpollinate.
    There is no such thing as a ‘gene pool' or population with
    regards to hermaphrodites since the only pollen that a hermaphrodite
    will use is the pollen that it generates itself. Both male and female
    flowers are located on the same plant. There can be variations in the
    offspring though.
    It is nearly impossible for a hermaphrodite to create any male
    only plants. A hermaphrodite may create female only seeds and
    hermaphrodite seeds. Also the female only seeds may carry the
    hermaphrodite trait.
    Extra Notes on Selfing by Vic High:
    [These notes where taken from a commentary that took place on the
    Internet and are worth reading. Nothing has been changed or omitted.
    Notes Provided by Vic High, BCGA breeder]
    Notes and Interviews byMr XX
    100% Female Seeds
    Posted by TheSiliconMagician on February 13, 1999 at 05:17:41 PT:
    As some of you know I have been a regular in the chat room
    for awhile now and I spend large amounts of time in there. Anyway, I
    have had the extreme pleasure of speaking to Mr. XX. over the last
    few nights for many hours and have gotten to know him quite well via
    E-mail and the chat. As it turns out he confided in me and a few others
    about his process for coming up with 100% Seeds.
    Now, Mr. XX is a very nice guy. Funny to and its always a
    pleasure to speak with him. The guy does not speak English too well
    but his wit comes through the rough language and he's a riot to talk to.
    He is a pure lover of cannabis. He feels that everyone should share and
    share alike and help the community in general.
    He simply wants to share his knowledge with the cannabis
    community because he has spent 15 years researching this and I spoke
    with him in depth about it. Done with Mr.XX's permission because he
    wants everyone to be able to do this.
    He stressed literally hundreds of plants with an irregular
    What he does is put the lights on 12/12 for 10 days. Then turns the
    lights on 24 hours, then 12/12 again for a few days, then back to 24
    hours for a day, then 12/12 again for a few weeks.
    If he does this and no hermaphrodites come up. He has found
    a 100% XX female that cannot go hermaphrodite naturally. He says
    that your chances of finding a 100% XX female is vastly increased
    when using Indica genetics. He told me that the more Afghani or
    Nepalese genetics the plant has, the better the chances of finding a
    natural XX female. His exact words were "Where did Mother Nature
    give weed a home at originally?"
    I tried to get him to narrow it down to a ratio, but he never
    specified just how many plants per are XX females his exact words are
    "plenty of XX girls for everybody" and that is all he will say on the
    subject. Only that it takes a lot of time and a lot of plants to find that
    one female.
    He then uses Gibrellic acid. 30 centilitres of water with 2
    grams of Gibrellic acid [Authors note: This is an incorrect amount
    please follow the directions at the end of this section next to the *
    mark. TSM did correct himself but not in this post. He did so later on.]
    (Continued) and 2 drops of Natruim Hydroxide to liquefy the Gibrellic.
    Then applies as normal and creates the male flowers. He has as pud
    said gotten down to the 4th Generation with
    NO loss of vigor, NO genetic deficiencies and NO hermaphrodites. He
    claims that the plants are EXACT GENETIC CLONES of one
    another. Complete sisters. Basically it's clone from seed instead of
    from normal cloning methods.
    Posted by TheSiliconMagician on February 13, 1999 at
    05:17:41 PT:
    Mr.XX also says that it is easy for the home grower to find an
    XX female. It's a very time consuming process but a straightforward
    one. He says that home growers should confine themselves to ONE
    strain. Mr. XX used a Skunk#1 x Haze x Hawaiian Indica. He says to
    separate those plants from your main grow and stress the hell out of
    them. Do this over and over with every new crop of seeds you get of
    that strain until you find the XX female. While this is probably
    difficult it is by no means impossible.
    Another anecdote "The slimmer the fingers the harder it is to
    find the XX girls", so if you have that Columbian Sativa.. it is going to
    be nearly impossible for you to find that 1 female.. he says it's possible,
    but very unlikely.. TSM
    * CORRECTION: 0.02g of Gibrellic, NOT 2 grams
    And this concludes the chapter on Basic Breeding. Hopefully
    in later editions we will be to expand on what we have mentioned here
    and show you some examples of some breeding projects and how they
    work. In the meantime you should have enough information here to
    start work on your own cannabis strain.
    I wish to thank Vic High, Chimera and Strawdog for making a
    major contribution to this chapter.
    Chapter 16
    This section contains a list of cannabis strains that you will
    more than likely come across if you shop around.
    * = A very good strain.
    ** = Suitable for new growers.
    *** = Not suitable for new growers.
    TB = Indicates an IBL strain.
    OUT = Not suitable for indoors.
    P = High potency.
    C = No seeds available. Clone format only.
    Afghani - *, **, TB,
    Afghani #1 - *, **, TB, P
    BC Hash Plant
    Black Domina - P
    Champagne - P, C
    Cream Sodica
    Durga Mata
    G-13 -P, C
    Hindu Kush - *, **, TB
    Kush -*, **, TB,
    Mangolian Indica
    Masterkush - *, **
    Northern Lights - *, **, TB, P
    Pluton 2
    Purple Star
    Romberry - *, P
    Shishkeberry - *, P
    Shiva -*, **, P
    Williams Wonder
    Aurora Borealis
    Big Bud - *, **
    Big Treat
    Blueberry - *, **
    Chemo -*, C
    Chronic -*
    Early Bud
    Early Girl -*, **
    El Nino
    Great White Shark -*, P
    Hawaiian Indica x Skunk #1
    Himalayan Gold -*
    Inca Spirit
    M39 -*
    Matanuska Valley ThunderFuck -*, C
    MCW (MightyMite x Chemo x Widow) -*
    Mister Nice
    Northern Lights #1 -*, **, P
    Northern Lights #2 (Oasis) -*, **, P
    Northern Lights #5 -*,**, P
    Peak 19
    Romulan -*
    Sensi Star
    Shiva Shanti -*, **
    Sweet Tooth -*
    Texada Timewarp -*, P
    Top 44 -*, **
    Yumbolt -*
    Cambodian -***, P, OUT
    Durban Thai x Cinderella 99 -***, P
    Haze Strains -***, TB, P, OUT
    Malawi -***, OUT
    Swazi -***, TB, P, OUT
    Thai -***, TB, P, OUT
    Beatrix Choice
    Cinderella 88/99 -*, **, P
    Durban Poison -*, **, P
    Durban X Skunk
    Durban/Thai -***, P, OUT
    Early Pearl - *, **
    Early Skunk - *, **
    Haze #1 -***, P, OUT
    Haze #19 -***, P, OUT
    Haze Skunk -***, P, OUT
    Kali Mist -*, **, P
    Lambs bread Skunk -*, P
    Mexican Sativa -***, OUT
    MullimbimbyMadness -*, ***, P, OUT
    Neville's Haze -*, ***, P, OUT
    Original Haze -*, ***, P, OUT, TB
    Power Plant -*, **, P, OUT
    Pure Haze -***, P, OUT
    Purple Haze -*, ***, P, OUT
    Purple Skunk -*, ***, P, OUT
    Sensi Skunk -*, **, TB, P
    Shaman -*
    Silver Haze -*, ***, P, OUT
    Skunk #1 -*, **, TB, P
    Skunk Passion -*
    Skunk Red Hair
    Super Haze -*, ***, P, OUT
    Super Silver Haze -*, ***, P, OUT
    Swazi X Skunk -***, OUT
    AK-47 -*, P
    Apollo 11 -*, P
    Blue Heaven
    BubbleGum -*, **, P
    California Indica
    California Orange
    Dutch Dragon - *, **, P
    Early Riser - *
    Euforia -*, P
    Flo -*
    Fruit Loop
    Green Spirit
    Hawaiian Indica -*
    Holland's Hope
    Jack Flash -*, P
    Jack Herer -*, P
    Juicy Fruit -*
    KC 33
    Killer Queen -*, P
    Leda Uno
    Mighty Dutch
    Night Queen
    Orange Crush -*
    Orange Strains
    Plum Bud
    Pole Cat -*
    Purple #1 -*, **
    Purple Power -*, **
    Rosetta Stone -*
    Shiva Skunk -*, **, TB
    Silver Pearl -*
    Skunk Indica -*, **
    Space Queen -*
    Special K
    Stonehedge -*
    Super Skunk -*, **, TB, P
    Trance -*
    White Rhino
    White Russian -*
    White Widow -*, **, TB, P
    This concludes the list of known strains on the market today.
    We will be updating this list with more feedback from you, the reader.
    Chapter 17
    Hash is a compressed format of the cannabis drug but it is not
    just compressed bud. In fact compressed bud has nothing to do with
    Hash contrary to public belief.
    Cannabinoids are the major drugs produced by the cannabis
    plant. We have already looked at Trichomes and we understand that
    these tiny stalked resin glands contain our THC and other
    cannabinoids. We also know that female flowers produce the majority
    of the little trichomes. Now this is all over the flower's surface and are
    correctly called “stalked capitate trichomes”. Since we are on this topic
    we will ask you to refer to Figures 1.12 and 1.14 in chapter 1. The
    gland heads (the rounded tips) secrete the major cannabinoids within
    an oil-like substance that you can remove by rubbing your fingers over
    the bud. We normally refer to this substance as resin. The stalks that
    support the gland heads are secondary to the head in cannabinoid
    production amounts. The gland and the stalks may also burst. In the
    case of a strain like afghani#1 that is thick with resin, this sometimesexplosive
    action of the gland is automatic.
    The reason why the cannabis plant produces resin oils is to
    gather fallen pollen from the male plant.
    When we smoke bud we hope to covert the oil into a vapor
    that we can inhale. However the surface of the flowers is not the only
    area which produce cannabinoids. It is known that the bulbous glands
    on the leaves produce cannabinoids and so does the stem, but these are
    only in minor quantities compared to the stalked capitate trichomes.
    Hash is made primarily from the collection of the stalked
    capitate trichomes. When the collected trichomes are compressed they
    form a blocky mass which we refer to as Hashish.
    There are many ways to do this ranging from bulk hash
    production to small finger sized quantities. Also each method will
    produce different qualities or grades of hashish. Some methods will
    gather only the trichomes, while other methods will gather trichomes
    and some other subsidiary elements like leaf particles and branch
    shavings. Water extraction seems to be the best way of achieving
    trichome extraction only. Let us look at each home method. We will
    not discuss other methods used for mass production by some eastern
    countries as these are somewhat substandard to the home methods
    mentioned below. In fact some of these ‘old eastern practices' are less
    common in their native homelands now because of these updated
    There is also a preparation process that you must go through
    with your dried plants before you attempt any of the methods outlined
    When you harvest your bud you will have trimmed the leaves
    away from the bud. This trim is what we refer to as Skuff. Skuff should
    be sticky. So whether it is on the stem or branch or leaf or bud, if it
    feels sticky then you can use it to extract the resin. Now if you really
    want to be a connoisseur about this then you should examine your
    skuff for trichomes with a microscope. If any parts of the skuff do not
    have trichomes then discard them.
    You must take this trim and store it much the same way as
    you would canned bud for 3 to 6 weeks.
    Also the quality of the overall result can not be much better
    than the genetics that you started with in the first place. If you used
    plants that where not very potent then don't expect to produce very
    potent hash from them.
    Flat Silk Screening:
    Screening is a process much like cheese grating but on a
    much finer level. A silk screen is stretched across a square wooden
    frame and nailed tight to it. The screen typically has a pour size
    between 180 to 120 microns. The smaller the microns the higher the
    quality but less the amount. The larger micron pours will result in
    larger sieved amounts but some leaf matter and branch trim will drop
    through. This will degrade the quality of hash that you smoke.
    Actually typical street hash is not nearly as fine or better in quality
    than the larger pour screen method.
    The bud is placed over the screen and can either be manually
    dragged across the screen or rolled across the screen using a roller.
    Manually it is much easier if you are using smaller quantities of bud
    but for larger quantities another method should be adopted like the
    automatic tumbling method. A sheet of glass placed under the screen
    is the best way of catching the matter that falls through the screen.
    After the process is finished the screen can be patted down to shake
    any powder that is stuck in the pours.
    Flat Metal Screening:
    This is done much like the flat silk screen method but before
    the flat silk is used the bud will go through a metal grating process.
    The metal grate is usually made from tough nylon or stainless steel
    and is of equal proportions in pour size to the silk screen. By first
    using the metal grate we can remove more matter from the bud than
    the single silk screen would do. The bud matter that passes through the
    metal screen can then be sieved through the silk screen by shaking the
    screen back and forth over a glass surface. You can end up with 2
    grades of sieved bud residue this way. The silk screening should
    produce mostly trichomes.
    Multiple Screening Method:
    This is a refined version of the above two methods. Several
    screens can be used in this method but the average is four of five. Each
    screen running from start to finish should have a different micron
    measurement starting from the largest and running down to the
    smallest silk screen. The bud matter is sieved through the first screen
    and then down onto the second screen. The process is repeated picking
    up and sieving with each new screen until most of the matter has
    passed through. You should end up with several screens that contain
    bud matter running down to the finer trichomes on the last screen.
    This is an excellent way to achieve the best results. You should end up
    with several screens each with different qualities of cannabis residue.
    Now that you have an idea of what screening is about we can
    look at it in better detail. This explanation will apply to all of the
    above screening methods.
    We stated that a metal screen is used first followed by a silk
    screen. Nowadays steel fabrics can be bought in sizes that have much
    smaller pours than even the finest silk screen.
    You should typically look for a metal screen that is ranged
    somewhere between 100 lines per inch to 140 per inch. A common
    screen used by most home hash makers is a screen with 120 lines. A
    wooden frame is constructed to hold the screen in place on one side.
    You can glue the screen on or nail it into place.
    Take 4 small wooden blocks and place them over a sheet of
    glass or a mirror. Place the screen over the blocks. Have a gap of an
    inch or so between the mirror and the screen. Place small amounts of
    skuff on the screen and gently role it back and forth across the screen
    using a credit card or similar plastic object. Do this very gently, over
    and back and over and back and over and back. You may have to push
    the skuff over and back a hundred times before you can see the tiny
    resin glands gather on the mirror below. All this is done with very
    little pressure.
    Once you have collected as much resin glands as possible use
    the card to sweep them off the mirror and onto another surface. Now
    take the ‘used' skuff and this time apply a bit more pressure to it as
    you roll it back and forth across the screen. With this little bit of extra
    force applied you will be able to knock through any resin glands that
    did not fall through the first time, but you will also push through some
    veg material such as branch shavings and leaf particles. This second
    round of pressing will result in a lower quality grade of skuff.
    You see skuff is skuff. From when you cure your trim to the
    point where you sieve it through, it is still skuff. Your objective is to
    try and collect as much resin from the skuff as possible. You will not
    end up with hash, but you will end up with different grades of skuff
    that can be used to make hash later.
    You can smoke the different grades of skuff there and then,
    but you may notice that it is hard to do so. Since this powder is so fine
    it will typically fall from a joint easily or pass through the pours of a
    pipe screen. In order to solve this problem we must compress the skuff
    into hashish. This we will discuss later after we talk about other
    extraction techniques.
    A drum machine is an automatic screening device. You will probably
    have to build one yourself but this is easy enough to do with the right
    materials. The size of the unit depends on how much cannabis you
    wish to sieve at a time. Most drum machines have a 1.5 - 2ft diameter.
    This is a simple example of what a drum machine looks like.
    In between the two wooden cylinders is the screen. The cannabis trim
    is placed inside this screen and a small motor attached to the side
    rotates the drum. As it rotates, very slowly (2 rotations a minute), the
    trichomes drop through the sieve onto the surface stand between the
    legs of the drum. A simple mirror or sheet of glass is best used to catch
    the skuff. You can keep the tumbler rotating for up to 1 hour to get the
    most from your skuff without applying any pressure. If you want to
    apply more pressure to the skuff then place a small wooden cylinder in
    with the barrel. This will help press the skuff as it passes under the
    cylinder. Different sized screens can be used to extract better quality
    Water Extraction:
    Resin glands can be removed from the cannabis plant by
    agitating the trim in cold water, typically ice cold water or water that
    has been chilled in a fridge overnight. The trim is placed in a bucket
    and the cold water is poured in on top. The whole lot is swirled or
    mixed around using a blender. After mixing you let it sit for a few
    minutes before scooping out the skuff that is floating on the surface.
    The remaining liquid is strained through a sieve. By sieving this liquid
    through a coffee sieve you will be able to collect most of the trichomes,
    as they will not pass through with the water. Just let the coffee sieve
    dry and hey presto!, you got excellent grade skuff to make hash from.
    The basic idea behind this is that cold water breaks the glands
    away from the leaf matter. The glands will eventually sink to the
    bottom of the bucket because they are heavier than water. The bulk leaf
    matter should stay afloat which can be easily scooped away.
    Again the quality of the skuff will determine the quality of
    hash that you will smoke. Remember on the first chapter we talked
    about Zero Zero?
    Well this is a term used to grade the quality of hashish. The
    simple ratio is cannabinoids : vegetable material. Good quality hashish
    has a high ratio of cannabinoids to vegetable material. 00 is a term
    used byMoroccans to express that the hash has the highest level of
    cannabinoids to vegetable achieved by their extraction process. You
    can almost imagine that this is the finest skuff available compressed
    into hashish. To compress hashish is simple.
    Take your fine skuff and put into a cellophane bag. Fold it
    into a block shape. Tape the ends of the cellophane down to create the
    Press it with your hands to make it more even and try to
    create the best square block you can with it. Use a pin to make a few
    holes on both side of the bag. Just scatter a few around. A hole per
    square inch is a good measurement to go by.
    Get two or three newspaper pages and dampen it down with a
    cloth that has just been rinsed. Don't break the paper just dampen it
    down. Set an Iron to low heat and place the newspaper over the
    cellophane bag. Hold the iron down over the paper and press it down
    with medium pressure for fifteen seconds. Turn the bag over and place
    the newspaper on top again. Wet it down if need. Press again for the
    same amount of time. You should only have to do this once or trice per
    Let the bag cool for five minutes and remove the cellophane.
    Voila! You have a nice block of hash like in the picture on the
    introduction pages to this book. Easy as pie! Also your quality of hash
    will be better than the street hash you find on the market. Street hash
    tends to be made from the less finer skuff material to make more
    blocks of hash at a lesser quality. If you smoke homemade hash then
    you will probably understand why 90% of street hash is sold at rip-off
    prices. Those big ounce chucks you buy probably only contain 10% of
    the good stuff, if any at all!
    Many countries use most of these techniques to make hash.
    You can almost imagine that in order to achieve bulk amounts you will
    have to use a lot of skuff in conjunction with a lot of employees or
    several drum machines working around the clock.
    Acidity: Acidity is Indicated by a pH value Below 7.
    Aerate: Loosening or puncturing the soil to increase water penetration.
    Afghani: A short Indica land race strain from Afghanistan. Very
    Air layering: A specialized method of cloning a plant which is
    accomplished by growing new roots from a branch while the branch is
    still connected to the parent plant.
    Alkaline: Having a pH value of above 7.
    Alternate host: One of two kinds of plants on which a parasitic fungus
    must develop to complete its life cycle.
    Alternate: To be "located directly across from", or it can apply to
    stamens when between the petals.
    Annual: Completing one life cycle.
    Bactericide: A chemical compound that kills or inhibits bacteria.
    Bale: Any package of marijuana weighing over 10 lbs.
    Ballast: A transformer used mainly with HID lighting equipment.
    Bhang: An Indian and Middle Eastern drink made from cannabis.
    Biennial: Completing the life cycle in two growing seasons. Cannabis
    is not biennial.
    Biological Control: Total or partial destruction of pathogen
    populations by other organisms.
    Blight: Rapid death of a leaf.
    Blotch: A disease characterized by large irregular spots on a leaf.
    Blue light: Mercury based light or a Metal Halide light.
    Blunt: A joint rolled in a tobacco-leaf wrapper.
    Bong: A water-cooled pipe made from glass.
    Bonsai: The art of growing carefully trained plants.
    Bract: A small leaf or scale-like structure associated with and
    subtending an inflorescence or cone.
    Bud: Female flower.
    Caespitose: Growing in tufts.
    Calyx: Outer whorl of flowering parts; collective term for all the sepals
    of a flower.
    Cambium: The thin membrane located just beneath the bark of a plant.
    Canker: A canker is a necrotic often sunken area on a stem, trunk, or
    branch of a plant.
    Cannabinoids: The psychoactive compound found in cannabis.
    Chillum: A small fat pipe made of clay.
    Chlorophyll: The green pigment in leaves. When present and healthy
    usually dominates all other pigments. It is important in the conversion
    of CO2 and H2O into glucose.
    Chlorosis: Chlorosis is the yellowing of normally green tissues due to
    the destruction of the chlorophyll or the partial failure of the
    chlorophyll to develop.
    Chronic: A strain of cannabis or a high-quality cannabis weed.
    Clasping: Leaf partly or wholly surrounding the stem.
    Clones: Rooted Cuttings. Normally considered female in the context
    they are spoken about unless otherwise directed.
    CO2: The chemical formula for carbon dioxide.
    Cola: Refers to the main branch of cannabis flowers located at the top
    of the stem.
    Colombian: Common imported bud from Colombia. Also a strain.
    Compost: An organic soil amendment resulting from the
    decomposition of organic matter.
    Corolla: Inner whorl of floral parts; collective name for petals.
    Creeping: To creep along a structure usually using the structure for
    Dieback: Dieback is the progressive death of branches or shoots
    beginning at the tips and moving toward the main stem.
    Dioecious: The male and female flowers are on different plants.
    Disease: Any malfunctioning of host cells and tissues that results from
    continuous irritation by a pathogenic agent or an environmental factor/
    Dividing: The process of splitting up plants into separate groups.
    Doobie: A common expression for hash or weed.
    Dope: A slang term for cannabis. Sometimes it is a slang term used for
    Double Digging: Preparing the soil by systematically digging an area
    to the depth of two shovels.
    Epidermis: The outer most layer of cells of the leaf and of young
    stems and roots.
    Evergreen: A plant that never loses all of its leaves at one time.
    Fan Leaves: They are the largest leaves of the cannabis plant that
    gather the most available light.
    Fertilizer: A plant food, which when complete should contains all
    three of the primary elements -N.P.K.
    Floret: A Small flower.
    Flower: Seed producing structure of a plant.
    Foliar Feeding: Fertilizer applied in liquid form to the plant's foliage
    in a fine spray.
    Four Twenty: (4:20), the time of day that is okay to start smoking.
    Fungicide: A compound toxic to fungi.
    Gall: Swelling of plant cells.
    Ganja: Term for pot derived from India but associated also with pot
    from Jamaica.
    Genotype: The genetic constitution of an individual, esp. as
    distinguished from the phenotype; the whole of the genes in an
    individual or group.
    Germinate: The process of the sprouting of a seed.
    Glabrous: Smooth, no hairs present.
    Glands: Refers to resin producing part of the cannabis plant.
    Glandular: Bearing glands.
    Grafting: The uniting of a short length of stem of one plant onto the
    rootstock or stem of a different plant.
    Grass: A very common term for cannabis.
    Habitat: Natural setting where a plant grows. Usually refers to a
    specific plant community.
    Hash/Hashish: Compressed Cannabis Resin.
    Hemp: This is the stalk and stems produced from the cannabis plant
    that are used to make fabrics.
    Herb: Another term used loosely to refer to cannabis.
    Hermaphrodite: A trait of a plant where both the male and female
    flowers are located on the same plant.
    HID: High Intensity Discharge light system.
    Hookah: A large water pipe from India.
    Host: A plant that is invaded by a parasite and from which the
    parasite obtains its nutrients.
    HPS: A high Pressure Sodium Light.
    Humus: The brown or black organic part of soil resulting from the
    partial decay of leaves and other matter.
    Hybrid: The offspring of two plants of different species or varieties of
    those species.
    Hydroponics: The science of growing plants in mineral solutions or
    liquid, instead of in soil.
    Indica: A species of cannabis plant.
    Infection: The formation of a parasite within or on a host plant.
    Infectious Disease: A disease that is caused by a pathogen which can
    spread from a diseased to a healthy plant.
    Inflorescence: The flower cluster of a plant.
    Inoculum: The pathogen or its parts that can cause infection.
    Internode : The distance between branches along the stem.
    Joint: A cannabis cigarette.
    Kief: A term from Morocco used to explain a fine grade of quality
    Lateral: Referring to side(s) of the plant structure.
    Leaching: The removal or loss of excess salts or nutrients from soil.
    Leaflet: Segment of a compound leaf.
    Leafy: Having numerous leaves.
    Lesion: An area of diseased tissue, normally with a change in color.
    Linear: Resembling a line; long and narrow and of uniform width.
    Also refers to uniform growth.
    Loam: A rich soil composed of clay, sand and organic matter.
    Lobe: A major expansion or bulge-like shape, as at the margin of a leaf
    or petal.
    Lumen: A scientific measurement for luminosity from a light source.
    Manure: Organic matter, usually the excrement of an animal such a
    horse, which is used as a rich fertilizer.
    Margin: The edge, generally of a leaf.
    Marijuana: Another term for cannabis.
    Mary Jane: A codeword for marijuana.
    MH: Metal Halide light system.
    Micronutrients: Mineral elements that are needed by some plants in
    very small quantities.
    Mildew: A powdery growth on the plant's surface.
    Mother: A selected mother plant kept for its vigor or likable
    characteristics by the grower. It is used for cloning and breeding.
    Mottle: Refers to irregular patterns on the leaf of light and dark areas
    like blotches.
    Mutation: A change in genetic material brought about by an abnormal
    influence such as radiation.
    Native: A plant that occurs and grows naturally in a specific region or
    Necrosis: A necrosis is dead tissue on areas of the plant.
    Nematicide: A chemical compound that kills nematodes.
    Nematode: Microscopic, wormlike animals that live in water or soil,
    or as parasites of plants and animals.
    Node: Position on a stem from which one or more structures
    (especially branches) arise.
    NPK: Abbreviation for nitrogen (N), phosphate (P), and potassium
    (K), the three primary nutrients for plants.
    Oil: Refers to cannabis resin when it is not in a solid state.
    Organic: This refers to a method of gardening utilizing only materials
    derived from living things and not man made chemicals.
    Osmosis: The process by which a solvent passes through a semipermeable
    membrane into a region of greater solute concentration, so
    as to make the concentrations on the two sides more nearly equal.
    Paraquat: A defoliant used to kill the cannabis plant around the world.
    Parasite: An organism living on or in another living organism (host)
    and obtaining its food from the latter.
    Pathogen: An entity that can incite disease.
    Peat moss: The partially decomposed remains of various mosses. Used
    as a substrate.
    Peduncle: The stalk of a flower or of a flower cluster.
    Perennial: Living for more than two years or growing seasons.
    Perianth: The floral envelopes; collectively the calyx and corolla,
    especially when they are alike.
    Perlite: A form of obsidian consisting of vitreous globules expandable
    by heating and used for insulation but in our case it is used as a plant
    growing medium.
    Petiole: Leaf stalk.
    pH: The pH is a measure of the acidity of a solution.
    Photoperiod: The timed amount of light that a plant receives.
    Photosynthesis: The chemical process in plants in which carbon
    dioxide and water are converted into glucose by the influence of light
    Phototropism: The inclination, which plants have, to grow towards
    Phyllotaxy: How leaves are arranged on a branch or stem.
    Pinching: Using the thumb and forefinger to lightly crush a branch or
    stem which promotes further branching and causes the plant to bush
    Pistil: The ovule-bearing organ of a flower.
    Pollen: The male gametes or microspores of a seed plant, produced as
    a fine granular or powdery substance in the anthers of a flower or the
    male cone of a gymnosperm and usu. transported by wind or insects.
    Pollinate: Convey pollen to or deposit pollen on a stigma, an ovule, a
    flower, a plant and so allow fertilization.
    Pot: Another term for cannabis.
    Potency: The strength of the cannabis drug. Usually measured by the
    THC levels in a plant.
    Predator: A predator is an insect or animal that feeds off other
    animals, insects or plants.
    Pruning: The cutting and trimming of plants to remove dead or injured
    wood, or to control and direct the new growth of a plant.
    Red light: Usually refers to a Sodium based light (HPS).
    Reefer : Another term used for dried cannabis. Specifically a cannabis
    Resistance: The ability of an organism to exclude or overcome a
    rH: Abbreviation for relative humidity. The relative humidity is
    expressed in a percentage and measured with a hygrometer.
    Roach : A filter for a cannabis cigarette.
    Root ball: The network of roots along with the attached soil of any
    given plant.
    Root bound: A condition that exists when a potted plant has outgrown
    its container.
    Roots: The colorless underground, part of a vascular plant which
    serves to anchor it and convey nourishment.
    Rot: Rot is the disintegration, discoloration, and decomposition of
    plant tissue.
    Rust: Rust is a plant disease that gives a "rusty" appearance to an
    infected surface of the plant.
    Sativa: A species of cannabis plant.
    Scorch: Scorch is the burning or drying and browning of leaf margins.
    Usually caused by overfeeding.
    Senescent: The growing old and dying back of plant tissue.
    Sepal: Can mean a leaf or segment of the calyx.
    Serrated: Having jagged edges.
    Sinsemilla: Refers to non-pollinated female cannabis plants.
    Skuff: Sifted resin from the cannabis plant.
    Skunk: An old strain of cannabis that has a strong smell and sour
    Spliff: A term used to describe a cannabis cigarette.
    Staking: The practice of driving a stake into the ground next to, and as
    a support for, a plant.
    Stamen: The male organ of the flower that bears pollen.
    Stash: A personal amount of cannabis.
    Stigma: The receptive part of the pistil.
    Stipule: Appendage at base of leaf stalk, often leaf or scale-like.
    Stoma: An organ in the leaves of plants. The stomata allow the plant
    to breathe.
    Stout: Thick and sturdy.
    Substrate: Refers to the growing medium.
    Susceptible: Lacking the inherent ability to resist disease.
    Symptom: The external and internal reactions or alterations of a plant
    as a result of a disease.
    Taxa: A group of plants, defined by the scientific plant classification
    Terminal: At the tip of a structure.
    Tetrahydrocannabinol/THC: The psychoactive cannabinoid in
    marijuana that is responsible for the high or drug effect.
    Thai stick: A cannabis sweet made by wrapping cannabis around a
    thin bamboo splint.
    THC: See - Tetrahydrocannabinol/THC.
    Thinning: Removing some plants to allow sufficient room for the
    remaining plants to grow.
    Toke: To inhale cannabis.
    Transpiration: The release of moisture through the leaves of a plant.
    Transplant: The process of moving one plant from it's medium to
    another medium or another location.
    Underground: A nasty term used to describe a movement of the people
    who grow and share cannabis.
    Vascular: Term applied to a plant tissue or region consisting of
    conductive tissue.
    Vegetative: The growth phase of a plant that occurs before flowering
    and after the seedling stage.
    Vermiculite: Any of a group of hydrated silicates resulting from the
    alteration of biotite and ultra basic rocks; spec. a monoclinic
    aluminosilicate of magnesium occurring as platy yellow or brown
    crystals or foliated scales. Flakes of this mineral used as a moistureholding
    medium for plant growth or a protective covering for bulbs
    Virus: A sub microscopic obligate parasite consisting of nucleic acid
    and protein.
    Weed: A common term used to describe cannabis.
    Whorl. Group of three or more structures of the same kind (generally
    leaves or flower parts) at the same node.
    Wilt: Wilt is what happens when the leaves of a plant droop.
    Zonked: To be very stoned. Usually refers to the Indica type high.
    It is by practical application of this book that the journey from
    novice grower to guru is achievable. Never try to do more than what
    you can.
    As a whole the following factors are the most important in
    achieving good results.
    -Preventing a problem instead of solving it
    -Air circulation
    -Pot/Container Size
    Without a doubt light is a very important factor in bud
    production and plant growth. Although results can be achieved using a
    250W HID or fluorescent tubes, a 400W HID is better. A 600W HID
    will produce a much better crop than a 400W HID and a 1K HID is the
    best single light available on the market today. If you are not getting
    the bud sizes that this book is showing you then upgrade your light
    system. It still has to be said that not everyone wants to grow this
    amount of bud and a 1K HID does cost a good bit of money to run.
    However with a 1K HID light you will improve your results.
    Also conserving light is important. Use reflectors, white walls
    and Mylar to keep the spread of light even and contained in your grow
    room. Any light leaks mean that usable light is being lost. You're
    paying for it so try and use as much of it as you can. Your plants will
    love you for this.
    It goes without saying that a plant with genetic traits for low
    bud production amounts and potency will not create an outstanding
    plant. If you start with bad genetics you will only end with bad results
    no matter what you do or how good a grower you are.
    If you want to obtain good genetics then get your seeds from a
    seed-bank that advertises good strains from reputable breeders. Most of
    the best breeders enter competitions such as the ‘Cannabis Cup' in
    Amsterdam. You should pay a visit to Amsterdam and sample what
    the breeders have to offer in the coffee shops. The coffee shop owners
    will sometimes tell you where you can get seeds from some bud that
    you liked to smoke.
    Most of the cannabis plant pictures in this book come from
    well-known strains that breeders have produced. Most of these strains
    can be bought through seed-banks.
    Preventing a problem instead of solving it:
    Prevention is better than cure. Any problem will stunt growth
    to some degree. Solving the problem before it happens entails knowing
    what problems to expect during your grow. This book has explained
    some of the problems you will face. Healthy plants are rewarding
    plants. Take good care of your plant's health and reap the rewards for
    doing so.
    Air circulation:
    Very important. Outdoor plants do not have this problem but
    indoor plants can sometimes stunt or grow weakly if they do not get
    fresh air. Fresh air is important to replace any impurities that build up
    in your grow room. Also the percentage of different compounds that
    make up air can change or fluctuate if new air is not introduced into
    the grow room. This can cause problems with your grow. Also heat
    can build up in spaces that do not have good air ventilation. A rise in
    temperatures can cause a plant to stunt. Keep fresh air moving around
    your grow room at all times for the best results.
    Dust is also a problem. In a grow room you need to use
    ventilation to keep dust from settling on your sticky bud. Those tiny
    pistils are producing the resin that you want. A big blob of dust on a
    pistil will only stunt its growth, not to mention reduce the overall
    effect that the bud has when you sample it.
    Air circulation also brings a mild wind to your grow. This is
    important for stem and branch growth. Wind will make the plant react
    by stressing it a little. That reaction is thicker stem and branch growth.
    This is important for bud production, as the plant will be thicker,
    stronger and healthier overall. I have seen growers use fans in their
    grow rooms that can triple the width of a stem. On more than one
    occasion I have seen indoor stems that are 2 inches thick and the plant
    was only 4 foot high! That plant produced the most bud in the same
    strain population too. The reason for this was because it was located
    very near to the main fan and was directly under the light. The
    growing conditions where optimal for that plant. It loved it.
    This is the medium that your plant will grow in throughout its
    life. If the soil does not suite cannabis then cannabis will not grow well
    in that medium no matter how good a grower you are. You may have
    to experiment with soil before you find a good soil that suites cannabis.
    Do not ever underestimate how important soil is. Make sure the pH is
    right and the nutrients that your plant needs are in the soil. Soils
    should hold a bit or water but should also drain well. We don't want
    muds or fast draining soils. Find a middle soil that does both well.
    Pot/Container Size:
    Also make sure that you use plenty of soil in large containers.
    I can tell you right now that a container that is only 4” x 4” will stunt
    your overall yield. You will be able to produce close to 0.5 Oz per
    plant (if the plant has good genetics) in a pot of this size, but a 6” x 6”
    will allow much more bud growth. A standard pot size for higher
    quantity results should be around 12” x 12” or more. I think a
    container that is 24” x 24” is good too, but takes up a lot of space.
    These larger containers are for mostly Sativa and pure Sativa species.
    Indica/Sativa, Mostly Indica and Indica will grow well in 12” x 12”
    Cannabis plants like food but not too much as we said before.
    If you provide the food that your plant needs then it will provide you
    with good results. However some fertilizers can change the taste of
    your bud. Many people say this is a myth but you will be able to taste
    the difference between natural outdoor bud and indoor bud that has
    been chemically treated if you smoke enough varieties from various
    grow techniques.
    Some people have complained about headaches after smoking
    indoor cannabis that has been burnt through overfeeding. There are
    many reasons for this and one big reason is that the grower has not
    used a feeding solution that is for food plants but one that is for plant
    appearance like roses. Some of these non-food plant fertilizers contain
    other ingredients than just the standard primary, secondary and
    micronutrients. These extra ingredients can sometimes be toxic and a
    warning label is written on the side of the bottle to indicate this. The
    same goes for pest sprays that are toxic. This is another good reason
    why you should grow your own bud.
    However if you have read this book then you know to stick to
    food fertilizers only and sprays that can be used on food plants. If you
    get your feeding mixtures right you will boost the overall performance
    of your plant. You will keep it healthy too.
    Hormones can also increase the overall yield and vigor of
    your plant. In some countries hormones are banned because they might
    interfere with a plant's genetics.....and yours. It is best to read up more
    on hormones before you use them, but most people have used
    hormones, with a good brand name, and have achieved larger bud
    quantities. Hormones can sometimes be expensive.
    If you use 12/12 and keep your flowering room completely
    light tight, you will improve your overall yields. A 100% light tight
    room will increase yields by 30% than a room that is only 99% light
    tight. That is how important total darkness is!
    If you can understand and control the above points then you
    will achieve the goal.
    This book will expand on a yearly bases. We will be adding
    new tips and tricks from growers around the world to keep up with the
    times. We hope that this book has helped you in some way and that
    you will use it for future reference.
    Remember - Do not break the law. Before you get seeds,
    clones or grow cannabis check your countries laws to make sure that
    you do not conflict with them. We would like you to grow cannabis but
    we do not want you to get into legal trouble either.
    Have Fun and thanks for reading this book.
    Greg Green.
    Here are some great resources for cannabis related material that you
    may want to check out. They come highly recommended.
    A great shop to check out for the latest in pipe and pipe designs. The
    RayDiaTor is a new water-cooled pipe. Check it out at
    A great place to shop for great strains on the market today. Send an
    E-mail to chimera for the latest stock lists and prices!
    Want to hang out and chat with fellow growers from around the
    world? Check out
    A great source for the latest information on cannabis news!
    Serious seeds is a great Dutch cannabis seed business that
    developed the critically acclaimed AK-47 strain. AK-47 is one of the
    most potent cannabis strains on the market today. They have also won
    a number of cannabis cups.
    Who are we? Serious Seeds is a small firm, concentrating on
    the production of high quality, stable and consistent cannabis seeds for
    the connoisseur Cannabis smoker. First, Serious strains are bred and
    stabilized for many generations with quality as the highest priority.
    These stable strains are selected for their unique properties then
    crossed to produce vigorous Fl hybrid seeds.
    When you grow our seeds you can be assured that the results
    will be consistent because every batch of seeds has been tested for good
    germination rates and uniformity. You will notice that we carry only
    five sorts of seeds and maybe you wonder why? After all, there are
    over a hundred types listed in some other seed banks. Instead of
    padding our list with seed varieties that are available elsewhere,
    Serious sells only our few custom developed and always prize-winning
    varieties. Serious Seeds are sold per 15 in a protective and airtight
    How do you know we're any good? In recent years there has
    been an explosion in the Cannabis seed business. By looking at any
    seeds it is impossible to tell what sort of weed will come out of them. If
    you go with a known Dutch breeding outfit like Serious Seeds then you
    can be assured that the seeds you receive are some of the highest
    quality genetic material available on the cannabis seed market today.
    One of the nice things about Serious seeds is our outlets. In
    Amsterdam our seeds are also sold in coffee shops along with our bud.
    If you visit one of these shops you will be able to try them out for
    A second measure of our quality is the number of awards we
    have won in the High Times Cannabis Cup. The Cannabis Cup is
    hosted by the smoker's magazine High Times and looks for the best
    Cannabis strains in Amsterdam every fall, awarding several prizes in
    different categories. In 1994 our 'AK-47' and 'Chronic' took awards
    through another company. In 1995 we grew into Serious Seeds and our
    'Kali Mist' won the Cup for best Hydro strain. In 1996 we introduced
    ‘White Russian', and it won the highly-valued, all-round-best award -
    "The Cannabis Cup"!
    What's in a name? Cannabis strain names (like Serious seeds
    - 'AK-47') are rapidly winning over the different sectors of the coffee
    shop industry. Serious Seeds has registered all of its names and even
    fought in court over the use of those names, but for the buyer the
    situation can be confusing. So, BEWARE, don't buy cheap seeds sold
    with popular names because more than likely you will be disappointed.
    Look for the name of the company that made the seeds. Consider who
    created the strain and what prizes it has won. Serious Seeds means
    quality! We have a name to uphold, so only buy REAL Serious seeds
    in their genuine packages from us.
    Indoor or outdoor? All of our strains are developed inside,
    under HPS lights. This means that they do very well inside. From the
    experiences of our customers, we know that when grown outside in the
    right location, the results can be even better than inside growing. That
    is no surprise, what is better than the sun? Even in the Netherlands,
    home of Serious Seeds, we have seen good results from outdoor crops
    of 'AK-47' and 'Chronic'.
    Under natural conditions the 'AK' finishes early enough to
    grow it in the garden. The Chronic thrives on our balconies where it
    receives lots of light and stays protected from rain and strong winds. In
    weather conditions similar to those of Holland you need to protect
    cannabis flowers from the elements by picking early or sheltering the
    plants. Indoor or outdoor growing is really a question of "Where do
    you live?" and "Can you protect the plants from the elements long
    enough to let them finish (like maybe in a glasshouse)?"
    We are always interested in photos of plants growing in
    extreme conditions. We invite you to tell or show us your results in
    extreme conditions (high latitude or extremely wet areas for example)
    then we can learn more about the limits of Serious Seeds genetic
    [Please note: Serious Seeds only mails to countries where it
    is legal to import cannabis seeds. Our advice is to check the customs
    regulations before you order. We can not be held responsible for
    persons breaking these regulations; neither do we accept productliability.
    You order at your own risk.]
    Contact Information:
    Serious Seeds
    Postbus 2796 1000CT Amsterdam
    Phone: +3120636.0989 Fax: +3120636.0989
    KvK: H2703000 Postbank:6870020
    Email: [email protected]
    History of Serious Seeds:
    The breeder behind Serious Seeds, Simon is his name, is
    responsible for the material sold by the seed bank. He studied biology
    at one of the universities in Amsterdam and was a non-smoker. He
    only discovered the merits of smoking pure marijuana after his study
    while traveling through Africa in 1986. From that moment on he
    started collecting seeds. Back in Holland he immediately started
    growing those seeds out and crossing what he thought were the best
    plants. Contacts with other growers gave him access to different plants
    from which he also selected the best ones. The genetic background of
    this material was not always clear but he was able to create some
    fantastic strains.
    Simon worked for some time at Sensi Seeds and still has a
    good relationship with the people behind Sensi, Ben and Alan
    Dronkers. In 1994 an effort was made to start a seed company with
    some American pot refugees. That year the AK-47 as well as the
    Chronic won prices at the American Cannabis Cup festival in
    Amsterdam. That first seed company with the Americans was
    discontinued and in 1995 Serious Seeds was formed.
    It has always been a Serious policy to have our products
    grown out by some of the best coffee shops in Amsterdam. The
    ‘Greenhouse' is one of those coffee shops which carries ‘Serious'
    products. The Greenhouse coffee shop won a Cannabis Cup in 1995
    with the Kali Mist produced by us, Serious Seeds. In 1996 another
    famous Amsterdam coffee shop ‘The Dampkring' won the Overall
    Cup at that years Cannabis Cup with our newest Serious strain White
    Serious has always been a small company, and prefers to stay
    like that. We love to smoke and basically try to develop new and
    interesting plants to grow and smoke for our own pleasure as well as
    for our clients. This means we don't work to produce something new
    every year for commercial reasons or to compete in the next contest.
    We want to put a new name out when we think we have something
    worth while for pot growers and smokers to try.
    An easy-growing good producer, this strains power earned it
    the name. More the idea of a 'one hit wonder' than anything violent is
    intended by the name. 'AK' has won many awards at the Cannabis Cup
    and other Cannabis festivals - 6 in total! These plants have a short
    flowering period, producing hard compact buds that gleam with resin
    crystals making any farmer proud. Quality without compromise, this is
    some serious flower power! And floral it is - be aware that these plants
    do have a strong smell.
    For connoisseur stash there is nothing like the almost 100%
    sativa flowers from Kali Mist. A superb sativa with a high calyx-toleaf
    ratio and long, running tops that produces full, fluffy, buds.
    Expect spiralling buds with a high resin content and a delightfully
    spicy scent. Kali Mist won the 1995 High Times Cannabis Cup for
    Best Hydro and is the personal choice smoke for many expert
    With great pride we now announce the availability of White
    Russian seeds. The big winner of the cup of all cups, the Cannabis Cup
    in the 1996 High Times Magazine Cannabis Cup competition. These
    seeds produce plants that are fantastic in both appearance, and effect.
    This is no surprise once you know that White Russian is a combination
    of the famous AK-47 and the equally well known White Widow. Since
    this is our most skunky variety, expect compact tops with few leaves
    and completely coated with white resin as well as a plant that is quite
    strong smelling even in the vegetative period. The quality is fantastic.
    Grow it and you will know it!
    Originally the Bubble Gum was developed by growers in
    Indiana, USA. From there the genetics moved to New England and
    eventually Holland. Here the decision was made to bring the several
    different phenotypes, all named Bubble Gum down to one type of
    plant. It took many generations to finally produce this stable Bubble
    Gum, with the characteristic sweet smell and euphoric high - the
    original trademarks of this famous strain. The result is a short broadleafed
    plant which grows a compact heavy bud with a very white,
    crystalline appearance. Bubble Gum has been widely admired since the
    mid 1990, winning 2 awards in the cannabis cups of 1994 (3rd best
    coffee shop) and 1995 (3rd Biocup).
    Our most commercial variety, Chronic is the plant to grow
    when yield and quality are top concerns. With its mostly indica
    background Chronic can produce up to 600 g/m² without losing that
    connoisseur feeling. The strong high comes from the heavy resin
    content. Smokers that know and grow choose this plant for its
    combination of appearance and sweet smell. Winner of the Third place
    in the Hydro competition of the High Times Cannabis Cup in 1994.
    This is the best choice for growers tired of losing quality when
    increasing yield.
    Please contact us if you want to find out how to get our
    strains. You will not be disappointed and we know that when you have
    tried us you will come back for more.
    If you want to be able to ask more questions about growing or
    post your own grow pictures then I suggest that you use the internet
    which is the best way to make contact with the growing community.
    http://www.cannabisx.com is the place to go. There is a whole list of
    articles, news, medical updates and cannabis research papers that you
    can read. It also happens to have a Chat feature and a Bulletin Board
    system (called ‘X-Forums'). I post there now and again so you should
    be able to make contact with me if you wish. I sometimes take E-mails
    but can't guarantee that I will get around to answering all your
    questions. You can E-mail me at: [email protected] but it would be
    better for you if you posted to the Bulletin Board system there instead.
    Greg Green
    Two weeks into flowering. This plant has very Indica dominant leaves.
    Picture by X3n0.
    This is a mostly Sativa plant. Notice her low height and very Sativa
    dominant leaves. Picture by Vic High.
    Inside the bud is a world of trichomes. Picture by Joop Jumas.
    Nice dry and manicured bud. . Picture by ThePenguin
    This is a well rooted clone. The clone was originally started in a
    rockwool cube. After roots developed and grew out from the rockwool
    cube the grower placed the cube and clone into some soil. You can see
    the rockwool cube at the base of stem. This grower will cover that
    surface up with soil after a bit more watering. Picture by Strawdog.
    Thick pistils grow out from a host of calyx patches. The results can be
    quite a marvelous display. This particular plant is being flushed dry of
    nutrients seven days prior to harvest. You can see that the tips of the
    leaves are suffering. The objective here is to completely rid the plant
    of Nitrogen and other chemicals before harvesting. It makes the bud
    easier to cure and make it taste better. Picture by NebuchadnezzaR .
    Pure hash does not need to be smoked in large amounts. Here
    MillumMadman has sparked up a few little hand rolled pellets of
    hashish. Picture by MullumMadman.
    This is a hydroponics SOG grow. The entire unit holds all ten clones.
    Picture by Mia Stoner.
    This is an elevated plan shot of a pruned cannabis plant. As you can
    see branching is very angular. Picture by Infected.
    Calyx development. Picture by Infected.
    A Calyx. The ultimate Pre-flowering Indicator. Illustration by
    Argosun Classic MH 1000 117000 581 ~3K
    Hortilux Super HPS TM EN HPS 1000 145000 535 ~2K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1100 133000 505 ~3K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1000 117000 470 ~3K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1000 117000 470 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 1000 117000 442 ~4K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1000 110000 441 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 1000 110000 416 ~4K
    Sunmaster Cool Deluxe MH 1000 80000 340 ~5K
    Hortilux Super HPSTM EN HPS 430 58500 220 ~2K
    Sunmaster Super HPS Deluxe HPS 600 85000 205 ~2K
    Hortilux Super HPSTM EN HPS 400 55000 205 ~2K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 400 40000 159 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 400 40000 151 ~4K
    Sunmaster Cool Deluxe MH 400 32500 138 ~5K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 400 36000 136 ~4K
    Sunmaster Super HPS Deluxe HPS 400 55000 132 ~2K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 250 22000 87 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 250 23000 87 ~4K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 250 21500 85 ~3K
    Sunmaster Cool Deluxe MH 250 19000 81 ~5K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 250 21000 80 ~4K
    Hortilux Super HPS Deluxe HPS 250 32000 77 ~2K
    Lamp Efficiency In LUMENS:
    Hortilux Super HPS TM EN HPS 1000 145000 535 ~2K
    GE Lucalox® Standard HPS 1000 140000 ~2.1
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1100 133000 505 ~3K
    Philips Son Standard HPS 1000 130000 ~1.95K
    Philips Son T HPS 1000 130000 ~1.95K
    Osram Sylvania Lumalux® Standby HPS 1000 127000
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1000 117000 470 ~3K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1000 117000 470 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 1000 117000 442 ~4K
    ArgoSun MS MH 1000 117000 581 ~3.2K
    GE High Output (HO) MH 1000 115000 ~3.8K
    Osram Sylvania Super Metalarc® MH 1000 115000 ~4K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1000 110000 441 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 1000 110000 416 ~4K
    GE High Output (HO) MH 1000 110000 ~3.4K
    GE Multi-Vapor® Standard MH 1000 105000 ~4K
    Philips Son T Plus HPS 600 90000 ~1.95K
    Sunmaster Super HPS Deluxe HPS 600 85000 205 ~2K
    Sunmaster Cool Deluxe MH 1000 80000 340 ~5K
    Hortilux Super HPSTM EN HPS 430 58500 220 ~2K
    Hortilux Super HPSTM EN HPS 400 55000 205 ~2K
    Sunmaster Super HPS Deluxe HPS 400 55000 132 ~2K
    Philips Son T Agro HPS 400 55000 ~2.05K
    Philips Son T Plus HPS 400 55000 ~1.95K
    Philips Son Plus HPS 400 54000 ~1.95K
    GE Lucalox® Standard HPS 400 51000 ~2.2
    Philips Son Standard HPS 400 48000 ~1.95K
    Philips Son T HPS 400 48000 ~1.95K
    Osram Sylvania Lumalux® Standby HPS 400 47500 ~2.1K
    GE Extra High Output (XHO) MH 400 44000 ~4K
    GE High Output (HO) MH 400 41000 ~4K
    Osram Sylvania Compact Super Metalarc® MH 400 41000
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 400 40000 159 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 400 40000 151 ~4K
    ArgoSun MS MH 400 40000 ~3.2K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 400 36000 136 ~4K
    GE Multi-Vapor® Metal Halide Standard MH 400 36000
    Sunmaster Cool Deluxe MH 400 32500 138 ~5K
    Hortilux Super HPS Deluxe HPS 250 32000 77 ~2K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 250 23000 87 ~4K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 250 22000 87 ~3K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 250 21500 85 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 250 21000 80 ~4K
    Sunmaster Cool Deluxe MH 250 19000 81 ~5K
    Lamp Efficiency for MH & HPS:
    Argosun Classic MH 1000 117000 581 ~3K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1100 133000 505 ~3K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1000 117000 470 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 1000 117000 442 ~4K
    ArgoSun MS MH 1000 117000 ~3.2K
    GE High Output (HO) MH 1000 115000 ~3.8K
    Osram Sylvania Super Metalarc® MH 1000 115000 ~4K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 1000 110000 441 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 1000 110000 416 ~4K
    GE High Output (HO) MH 1000 110000 ~3.4K
    GE Multi-Vapor® Standard MH 1000 105000 ~4K
    Sunmaster Cool Deluxe MH 1000 80000 340 ~5K
    GE Extra High Output (XHO) MH 400 44000 ~4K
    GE High Output (HO) MH 400 41000 ~4K
    Osram Sylvania Compact Super Metalarc® MH 400 41000
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 400 40000 159 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 400 40000 151 ~4K
    ArgoSun MS MH 400 40000 ~3.2K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 400 36000 136 ~4K
    GE Multi-Vapor® Standard MH 400 36000 ~4K
    Sunmaster Cool Deluxe MH 400 32500 138 ~5K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 250 23000 87 ~4K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 250 22000 87 ~3K
    Sunmaster Warm Deluxe MH 250 21500 85 ~3K
    Sunmaster Natural Deluxe MH 250 21000 80 ~4K
    Sunmaster Cool Deluxe MH 250 19000 81 ~5K
    Hortilux Super HPS TM EN HPS 1000 145000 535 ~2K
    GE Lucalox® Standard HPS 1000 140000 ~2.1
    Philips Son Standard HPS 1000 130000 ~1.95K
    Philips Son T HPS 1000 130000 ~1.95K
    Osram Sylvania Lumalux® Standby HPS 1000 127000
    Philips Son T Plus HPS 600 90000 ~1.95K
    Sunmaster Super HPS Deluxe HPS 600 85000 205 ~2K
    Hortilux Super HPSTM EN HPS 430 58500 220 ~2K
    Hortilux Super HPSTM EN HPS 400 55000 205 ~2K
    Sunmaster Super HPS Deluxe HPS 400 55000 132 ~2K
    Philips Son T Agro HPS 400 55000 ~2.05K
    Philips Son T Plus HPS 400 55000 ~1.95K
    Philips Son Plus HPS 400 54000 ~1.95K
    GE Lucalox® Standard HPS 400 51000 ~2.2
    Philips Son Standard HPS 400 48000 ~1.95K
    Philips Son T HPS 400 48000 ~1.95K
    Osram Sylvania Lumalux® Standby HPS 400 47500 ~2.1K
    Hortilux Super HPS Deluxe HPS 250 32000 77 ~2K
    Three Things Marijuana Doesn't Do
    By California NORML, 1992.
    1. No brain damage seen in marijuana-exposed monkeys
    Two new scientific studies have failed to find
    evidence of brain damage in monkeys exposed to marijuana,
    undercutting claims that marijuana causes brain damage in
    humans. The studies were conducted by two independent
    research groups. The first, conducted by Dr. William
    Slikker, Jr. and others at the National Center for
    Toxicological Research in Arkansas examined some 64
    rhesus monkeys, half of which were exposed to daily or
    weekly doses of marijuana smoke for a year. The other, by
    Gordon T. Pryor and Charles Rebert at SRI International in
    Menlo Park, California, which is still unpublished, looked at
    over 30 rhesus monkeys that had inhaled marijuana one to
    three times a day over periods of 6 to 12 months. Neither
    study found evidence of structural or neurochemical
    changes in the brains of the monkeys when examined a few
    months after cessation of smoking.
    The new results cast doubt on earlier studies
    purporting to show brain damage in animals. The most
    famous of these was a study by Dr. Robert Heath, who
    claimed to find brain damage in three monkeys heavily
    exposed to cannabis. Heath's results failed to win general
    acceptance in the scientific community because of the small
    number of subjects, questionable controls, and heavy doses.
    Subsequent rat experiments by Dr. Slikker and others
    reported persistent structural changes in the brain cells of
    rats chronically exposed to THC. The studies did not show
    that pot kills brain cells, as alleged by some pot critics, but
    they did show degeneration of the nerve connections
    between brain cells in the hippocampus, where THC is
    known to be active.
    Although scientists have regarded the animal
    evidence as inconclusive, some critics have cited it as proof
    that pot causes brain damage in humans. Thus Andrew
    Mecca, the director of California Department of Alcohol
    and Drug Abuse, recently stated on the Ron Reagan, Jr. talk
    show (Sep. 2, 1991) that marijuana "leaves a black protein
    substance in the synaptic cleft" of brain cells, a claim
    apparently based on Heath's monkeys. When asked by a
    NORML member for his evidence, Mecca sent a list of three
    references, none of which turned out to have anything to do
    with brain damage.
    Although the new monkey studies found no physical
    brain damage, they did observe behavioral changes from
    marijuana. Slikker's group found that monkeys exposed
    once a day to the human equivalent of four or five joints
    showed persistent effects throughout the day. Slikker says
    that the effects faded gradually after they were taken off
    marijuana, and were not detectable seven months later,
    when they were sacrificed. Autopsies did reveal lingering
    chemical changes in the immune cells in the lungs of
    monkeys that had inhaled THC. However, Slikker's group
    concluded that experimental exposure to marijuana smoke
    "does not compromise the general health of the rhesus
    William Slikker, Jr. et al, "Chronic Marijuana Smoke
    Exposure in the Rhesus Monkey," Fundamental and
    Applied Toxicology 17: 321-32 (1991)
    Guy Cabral et al, "Chronic Marijuana Smoke Alters
    Alveolar Macrophage Morphology and Protein Expression,
    Pharmacology Biochemistry and Behavior 40: 643-9
    Merle Paule et al., "Chronic Marijuana Smoke Exposure in
    the Rhesus Monkey II: Effects on Progressive Ratio and
    Conditioned Position Responding," Journal of
    Pharmacology and Experimental Therapeutics 260: 210-22
    2. Pot found not to cause fetal alcohol syndrome
    A new study of children born to marijuana-smoking
    mothers found no link between marijuana exposure and the
    birth defects of fetal alcohol syndrome (FAS). The new
    study, by Dr. Susan J. Astley of the University of
    Washington, published in the January, 1992 issue of
    Pediatrics, contradicted a 1982 study by Dr. Ralph Hingson,
    in which prenatal exposure to marijuana was found to
    increase the risk of FAS.
    Hingson's results, which have not been replicated,
    have been questioned on various methodological grounds, in
    particular the difficulty of controlling for combined drinking
    and pot use.
    The new study looked for facial deformities
    symptomatic of FAS in 40 children whose mothers had
    smoked marijuana heavily during pregnancy and 40
    controls, It found no association between marijuana and
    FAS, but deformities were observed in children of women
    who drank 2 ounces of alcohol per day or took cocaine.
    3. New study finds pot doesn't lower testosterone
    A new study by Dr. Robert Block at the University
    of Iowa disputes the commonly held notion that marijuana
    alters the level of testosterone and other sex hormones.
    The study contradicted a widely publicized 1974
    study by Dr. R.C. Kolodony, which reported decreased
    testosterone levels in men who smoked marijuana
    The U. of Iowa study found that chronic marijuana
    use had no effect on testosterone, luteinizing hormone,
    follicle stimulating hormone, prolactin and cortisol in men or
    Noting that six other studies had failed to show
    lowered testosterone levels in men, Dr. Block concluded: "It
    appears that marijuana, even heavy use of the kind that's
    typical in the United States, doesn't alter testosterone
    levels." However, he cautioned that heavy use might have
    other adverse effects, including "possible effects on
    reproductive function and mild, selective cognitive
    impairments associated with heavy, chronic use."
    Block's study is published in Drug and Alcohol
    Dependence, Vol. 28: 121-8 (1991).
    10 Things Every Parent, Teenager & Teacher Should
    Know About Marijuana.
    (Text of a flyer from the Family Council on Drug
    "Prohibition...goes beyond the bounds of reason in that it
    attempts to control a man's appetite by legislation and
    makes a crime out of things that are not crimes. A
    prohibition law strikes a blow at the very principles upon
    which our government was founded."
    -- Abraham Lincoln, December, 1840
    This pamphlet was researched and produced as a public
    service by the Family Council on Drug Awareness, P.O.
    Box 71093, LA CA 90071-0093
    1 Q. What is Marijuana?
    A. "Marijuana" refers to the dried leaves and flowers of the
    cannabis plant [1], which contain the non-narcotic chemical
    THC at various potencies. It is smoked or eaten to produce
    the feeling of being "high." The different strains of this herb
    produce different sensual effects, ranging from sedative to
    2 Q. Who Uses Marijuana?
    A. There is no simple profile of a typical marijuana user. It
    has been used for 1000s of years for medical, social, and
    religious reasons and for relaxation [2]. Several of our
    Presidents [3] are believed to have smoked it. One out of
    every five Americans say they have tried it. And it is still
    popular among artists, writers, musicians, activists, lawyers,
    inventors, working people, etc.
    3 Q. How Long Have People Been Using Marijuana?
    A. Marijuana has been used since ancient times [4]. While
    field hands and working people have often smoked the raw
    plant, aristocrats historically prefer hashish [5] made from
    the cured flowers of the plant. It was not seen as a problem
    until a calculated disinformation [sic] campaign was
    launched in the 1930s [6], and the first American laws
    against using it were passed [7].
    4 Q. Is Marijuana Addictive?
    A. No, it is not [8]. Most users are moderate consumers
    who smoke it socially to relax. We now know that 10% of
    our population have "addictive personalities" and they are
    neither more nor less likely to overindulge in cannabis than
    in anything else. On a relative scale, marijuana is less habit
    forming than either sugar or chocolate but more so than
    anchovies. Sociologists report a general pattern of
    marijuana use that peaks in the early adult years, followed
    by a period of levelling off and then a gradual reduction in
    use [9].
    5 Q. Has Anyone Ever Died From Smoking Marijuana?
    A. No; not one single case, not ever. THC is one of the few
    chemicals for which there is no known toxic amount [10].
    The federal agency NIDA says that autopsies reveal that 75
    people per year are high on marijuana when they die: this
    does not mean that marijuana caused or was even a factor in
    their deaths. The chart below compares the number of
    deaths attributable to selected substances in a typical year:
    Tobacco 340,000 - 395,000
    (excluding crime/accidents) 125,000
    Drug Overdose
    (prescription) 24,000 - 27,000
    Drug Overdose (illegal) 3,800 - 5,200
    Marijuana 0
    *Source: U.S. Government Bureau of Mortality Statistics,
    6 Q. Does Marijuana Lead to Crime and/or Hard
    A. No [11]. The only crime most marijuana users commit is
    that they use marijuana. And, while many people who abuse
    dangerous drugs also smoke marijuana, the old "stepping
    stone" theory is now discredited, since virtually all of them
    started out "using" legal drugs like sugar, coffee, cigarettes,
    alcohol, etc.
    7 Q. Does Marijuana Make People Violent?
    A. No. In fact, Federal Bureau of Narcotics director Harry
    Anslinger once told Congress just the opposite - that it leads
    to non-violence and pacifism [12]. If he was telling the truth
    (which he and key federal agencies have not often done
    regarding marijuana), then re-legalizing marijuana should be
    considered as one way to curb violence in our cities. The
    simple fact is that marijuana does not change your basic
    personality. The government says that over 20 million
    Americans still smoke it, probably including some of the
    nicest people you know.
    8 Q. How Does Marijuana Affect Your Health?
    A. Smoking anything is not healthy, but marijuana is less
    dangerous than tobacco and people smoke less of it at a
    time. This health risk can be avoided by eating the plant
    instead of smoking it [13], or can be reduced by smoking
    smaller amounts of stronger marijuana. There is no proof
    that marijuana causes serious health or sexual problems [14]
    but, like alcohol, its use by children or adolescents is
    discouraged. Cannabis is a medicinal herb that has hundreds
    of proven, valuable theraputic uses - from stress reduction
    to glaucoma to asthma to cancer therapy, etc. [15].
    9 Q. What About All Those Scary Statistics and
    A. Most were prepared as scare tactics for the government
    by Dr. Gabriel Nahas, and were so biased and unscientific
    that Nahas was fired by the National Institute of Health [16]
    and finally renounced his own studies as meaningless [17].
    For one experiment, he suffocated monkeys for five minutes
    at a time, using proportionately more smoke than the
    average user inhales in an entire lifetime [18]. The other
    studies that claim sensational health risks are also suspect,
    since they lack controls and produce results which cannot be
    replicated or independently verified [19].
    10 Q. What Can I Do About Marijuana?
    A. No independent government panel that has studied
    marijuana has ever recommended jail for users [20].
    Concerned persons should therefore ask their legislators to
    re-legalize and tax this plant, subject to age limits and
    regulations similar to those on alcohol and tobacco.
    For More Information, Write:
    Family Coucil on Drug Awareness
    P.O. Box 71093, LA CA 90071-0093
    1. The same plant, known as hemp, has an estimated
    50,000 non-drug commercial uses including paper, textiles,
    fuels, food and sealants, but these uses are also banned by
    existing laws. Sources: Encyclopedia Britannica, federal
    documents and historical records.
    2. Coptic Christians, Rhastafarnians [sic], Shintos,
    Hinus, Buddhists, Sufis, Essenes, Zoroastrians, Bantus, and
    many other sects have traditions that consider the plant to
    have religious value.
    3. Their personal correspondence and records reveal
    that U.S. Presidents Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, and
    others smoked hashish, as did Benjamin Franklin and Mary
    Todd Lincoln. President John F. Kennedy is also reported to
    have smoked marijuana to relieve his back pain. Many of
    America's greatest leaders and Founding Fathers (including
    George Washington) were hemp farmers. Sources: National
    Archives, published reports.
    4. Archeologists report that cannabis was possibly the
    first plant cultivated by humans - about 8000 B.C. - and was
    used for linen, paper, and garments. Source: Columbia
    University, _History of the World_. It was being smoked in
    China and India as early as 2700 B.C.
    5. Turkish smoking parlors were popular in both
    Europe and America. as well as the Middle and Far East, as
    recently as the turn of the Century.
    6. The exhaustive Indian Hemp "Raj" Commission
    report (1986) by British authorities found no reason to
    restrict its use. But the notorious yellow journalist William
    Randolph Hearst fabricated and published horror stories
    about marijuana that were eventually investigated and
    shown to be lies, but not until long after the marijuana
    prohibition was enacted in 1938. Source: Larry Sloman,
    _Reefer Madness_.
    7. Laws against marijuana were passed a year after the
    invention of a machine to harvest and process hemp so it
    could compete commercially against businesses owned by
    Hearst, the DuPonts and other powerful families. Source:
    Jack Herer, _The Emporor Wears No Clothes_.
    8. Marijuana does not lead to physical dependency.
    Costa Rican Study, 1980; Jamaican Study, 1975; Nixon
    Blue Ribbon Report, 1972, et. al.
    9. Source: Psychology Today, Newsweek, et.al.
    10. Source: All univerity medical studies: UCLA,
    Harvard, Temple, etc.
    11. Costa Rican Study, 1980; Jamaican Study, 1975;
    "The legal drugs for adults, such as alcohol and
    tobacco...precede the use of all illicit drugs." Source:
    National Academy of Sciences.
    12. The FBI reports that 65-75% of criminal violence is
    alcohol related. "Pacifist syndrome" testimony was given by
    Federal Bureau of Narcotics Director Harry Anslinger
    before Congress (1948). However, the "Siler" Study
    conducted by the U.S in Panama (1931) reported "no
    impairment" in military personnel who smoked marijuana
    while off duty.
    13. "The only clinically significant medical problem is
    that scientifically linked to marijuana is bronchitis. Like
    smoking tobacco, the treatment is the same: stop smoking."
    Source: Dr. Fred Oerther, M.D.
    14. Coptic study (UCLA), 1981; "There is not yet any
    conclusive evidence as to whether prolonged use of
    marijuana causes permanent changes in the nervous system
    or sustained impairment of brain function and behavior in
    human beings." Source: National Academy of Sciences.
    Source: Dr. Tod Mikuriya, _Marijuana Medical Papers_.
    Marijuana could replace at least 10-20% of prescribed drugs
    now in use. Source: Dr. RaphaelMechoulam. Marijuana
    was a major active ingredient in 40-50% of patent medicines
    before its ban.
    16. 1976
    17. 1983
    18. The U.S. Government reports that the oral dose of
    cannabis required to kill a mouse is about 40,000 times the
    dose required to produce symptoms of intoxication in man.
    Source: Lowe, _Journal of Pharmacological and
    Experimental Therapeutics_, Oct. 1946.
    19. In another famous study, Heath/Tulane (1974), wild
    monkeys were brutally captured, then virtually suffocated in
    marijuana smoke over a period of 90 days. Source: National
    Institute of Health.
    20. Examples: the "LaGuardia" Committee Report (New
    York, 1944) and President Richard Nixon's Blue Ribbon
    "Shafer" Commission (1972).
    Abuse 25
    Acid 141, 271, 325, 355
    Addictive 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 256
    Aeroponics 209, 212, 213, 214
    Afghani 317, 325, 328, 335, 345
    circulation 277, 356, 358, 359
    layering 261, 345
    Air-cooled 130, 131, 132, 199, 200
    Air-stone 228, 229, 231
    Alga 223, 228
    Alkaline 141, 157, 162, 345
    Allele 288 - 292
    Alternate 345
    Animals 23, 267
    Ants 271
    Aphids 271, 272
    Asia 22, 23
    Attack, plant 63, 277
    Attic 93, 94
    pots 209, 215
    Backcrossing 319 - 321
    Bale 345
    Ballast 120 - 122, 128 - 133
    Bamboo 247, 354
    Basement 18, 94
    Bees 79
    Belgium 25, 204
    growing 120, 136, 152
    Bending 246, 247, 254
    Bhang 345
    Bleach 134, 228, 273
    Blight 345
    Bloom 218, 223
    Blotch 345
    Blue light See Metal Halide (M.H)
    Blueberry 250, 317, 330
    Blunt 345
    Bong 346
    Bonsai 346
    Boron 163, 278
    Breathe 141, 143, 165, 199, 353
    Breeding See chapter 15.
    Bubbler 226, 227 - 231
    Bulbs 120 - 130, 391
    Bushes 252 - 253
    Cabinets 94, 120, 188, 193, 197 - 199, 256, 256
    Calcium 163
    Calyx 68, 170, 171, 351, 353, 375, 385, 389, 390
    Cambium 346
    Canker 346
    Cannabinoids 27, 38, 39, 43, 44, 283, 335, 342
    death 25
    Canning 283
    Canopy 189, 191, 194, 195,
    Canvas 282
    dioxide CO2 166, 346, 351
    Cardboard 101, 235
    Cash 108, 109
    Caterpillar 268, 269
    Cats 264
    CBD 38
    CBDV 38
    CBL 38
    CBN 38
    CDC 38
    Ceiling 132, 202
    Cellophane 343
    Characteristics See phenotype
    Cheesecloth 84
    burns See over feeding
    Chlorine 163, 266, 278
    Chlorophyll 346
    Chlorosis 346
    Chromosome 288 - 290
    Clay 145
    Cleaning See Sterile
    Clipping See Pruning and Topping
    Clones 78, 85, 86, 172, 189, 191, 194, 199, 217,
    227, 236, 245, 257 - 262, 297, 315, 320,
    322, 323, 326, 362, 384, 387
    Clonex 259
    Closet See Cabinet
    Cola 29, 32, 103, 151, 185, 188, 191, 192, 236,
    241, 242, 243, 248, 249, 250, 252, 346
    Cold 87, 165, 166, 238, 342
    color See Phenotype and Genotype.
    Compost 91, 147, 346
    Containers See Pots
    Copper 163, 278
    Corkscrew 254
    meal 162
    Court 108, 369
    Credit card 80, 108, 339
    Creeping 276, 347
    Cross See Backcross, Heterozygous and Hybrid
    Crystals See Trichomes
    Cubing 319, 321, 323
    Cull 24, 273
    Curing 33, 280, 283
    Curling 277
    Cuttings See Clones
    Cutworms 268, 269
    Dangers 24, 127, 138
    Deer 115, 265, 267
    Deficiency 163, 278
    Delta-8 THC See THC
    Delta-9 THC See THC
    Dieback 347
    Dioecious 347
    Discoloration 276, 353
    Disease 292, 345, 347, 349, 351, 353, 354
    Dividing 347
    Dominant 290 - 318
    digging 347
    potting 151
    Draft See Cold
    Drainage 145, 205
    Drift, genetic 310, 311
    Drip Irrigation 209, 212,
    Dripper 212
    Driving 26
    Drum machine 340, 341, 344
    Ebb & Flow 209, 211
    E-mail 52, 53, 380
    Embryonic 66
    Epidermis 347
    Epsom salts 163, 165, 277, 278
    Equilibrium 292, 303
    Evolution 176, 293
    F1 308, 319
    F2 308
    Fan 87, 88, 110, 130, 131, 154, 165 - 168, 197 -
    199, 202, 359
    Fan Leaf 44, 154, 186, 195, 243, 244, 280, 281
    Father 290
    Feeding See Nutrients
    example 59
    Fertilizer See Nutrients
    Fire 111
    Flavour 56
    Flood &
    drain See 'Ebb and Flow'
    Flowers See Male and Female
    times 56, 94, 187, 189, 280
    Fluorescent 125, 127, 192, 196, 199, 356
    Flush 157 - 161, 164, 256, 278, 385
    Foliar Feeding 347
    Forests 96, 99, 117, 118
    Formula 223, 224, 295, 346
    Formulex 217
    Frequency See Equilibrium
    Frosty See Trichomes
    Fungicide 267, 348
    Gall 348
    Ganja 348
    migration 310, 351
    Gene Pairs 290
    Gene pool 293 - 297, 305, 306 - 312, 317 - 320, 322,
    Genes 288 - 293, 295 - 297, 311, 312, 317, 323,
    Genetic drift 310, 311
    (GM) 39
    Genotype 289, 297 - 299, 302 - 307, 309, 313 - 317,
    Germination 56, 65, 66, 79, 83 - 85, 87 - 89, 91, 107,
    199, 221, 233, 279, 368
    Gibrellic acid 325
    Glabrous 348
    Glands 44, 335
    Gnats 271
    Grafting 348
    Greenhouse 85, 89, 372
    Ground coffee 162
    Groundhog 226
    Grow Dan 205
    growing 63, 99, 115,255
    Habitat 348
    Halogen 126
    Hamsters 318
    Hard Water 225
    equilibrium See Equilibrium
    Harvest 32 - 34, 44, 45, 48, 49, 56, 74, 77, 94, 114,
    117, 187, 189, 199, 239, 241, 242, 244, 273,
    280 - 284, 286, 336, 385
    Hashish 39 - 44, 336, 340, 342, 343, 348, 386
    Hawaiian 326, 330, 333
    Haze 114, 286, 287, 298, 312 - 314, 319, 326,
    331, 332
    Heat See Temperature
    Hemp 24, 39, 348
    Hermaphrodite 31, 177, 181, 323 - 325, 348
    Pictures 178 - 181
    Heterozygous 288, 298, 299, 301 - 304, 307 - 310, 314,
    315, 319, 320
    (High Intensity
    Discharge) 120, 123, 128, 131 - 135, 188, 192, 196,
    255, 345, 348, 356, 357, 391
    High Pressure
    Sodium (HPS) 82, 129, 130, 132, 134, 136, 193, 202, 348,
    352, 370, 391
    Himalayas 23
    Hippy 96
    Homozygous 288, 297 - 299, 301 - 308, 312, 314 - 320
    Hookah 348
    Hormones 91, 361
    HPS See High Pressure Sodium
    Humidity 165, 166, 352
    Humus 146, 147, 349
    Hybrids See Heterozygous
    Hydroponics Chapter 9
    IBL (In Breed
    Line) 285, 287, 313, 318, 328
    Incandescent 124
    Indica 35 - 37
    Infection 349
    Inflorescence 413
    Influence 346, 349
    Inhale 335, 354
    Inoculum 349
    Insecticide 349
    Insects 79, 265
    Internodes 36, 37
    Ionic 218
    Iron 163, 278
    Kief 349
    Larvae 268, 274
    Pictures of 36
    Leaf Hopper 268
    Lee, Bruce 25
    Lemon peels 162
    Lesion 349
    Light Rail 202
    Loam 146
    Lobe 350
    Lockout 163, 164, 278, 279
    Locus 290, 291
    Logistics 77
    Lumens 133 - 136, 255, 391
    Magnesium 163, 277
    Picture of 106, 183
    Manganese 163
    pots 209, 215
    Manure 147, 350
    Margin 350, 353
    Marigolds 265
    Maturity 72, 74, 280
    Mealy Bugs 273
    Medical 9, 25, 28
    Medium 85, 89, 90, 108, 139, 143, 144, 147, 172,
    188, 194, 205 - 208, 211 - 213, 220, 224,
    228, 259, 278, 282, 343, 351, 353 - 355, 359
    Gregor 305, 306, 308
    Metal Halide
    (MH) 128 - 130, 132, 350, 391
    (MV) 128
    Microns 337
    Micronutrients 91, 163, 164, 350
    Mirrors 137, 339, 341
    Mites 63, 34, 88, 265, 270, 274
    Molybdenum 163, 278
    Mongolia 22
    Mother plant 78, 79, 189, 257 - 259, 321 - 323, 350
    Mottle 350
    Mould 195, 246
    Mud 143, 159
    Mutation 310, 311, 350
    Mylar 137, 138, 177, 199, 202
    hydroxide 325
    selection 295, 310, 312, 322
    Nematicide 350
    Nematode 350
    NFT Nutrient
    technique 209 - 210
    Nitrogen 142, 163, 224, 277, 351, 385
    Node 30, 253, 259, 350, 355
    mating 310, 312, 322
    NPK 163 - 165
    Nutrients 163 - 165, 216 - 226
    Odor 110, 212
    Offspring 181, 285, 287, 288, 289, 291, 292, 299,
    300 - 308, 311, 315, 319, 320 - 323, 349
    growth 42,
    Organic 147, 346, 349 - 351
    Osmosis 225
    149, 154, 160
    generator 110, 202
    Parasite 348, 349, 351, 355
    Pathogen 345, 349
    Peat moss 351
    Peduncle 351
    Perennial 351
    Perforation 149, 210
    Perianth 351
    Perlite 144, 351
    Pesticides 264, 275
    Pests See Chapter 12
    pH 91, 141, 142, 146, 156, 157, 159 - 162, 169,
    221, 222, 225, 235, 255, 276, 278, 345, 351,
    Phenotype 289, 290, 297, 303, 314
    Phosphorous 142
    Photoperiod 47, 176, 177, 325, 351
    Photosynthesis 166, 223, 351
    Phototropism 352
    Phyllotaxy 352
    Pinching 352
    Pistil See Trichomes
    PMP (potency
    project) 39
    Pollen 70, 72, 74, 79 - 81, 106, 177, 178, 181, 185,
    285, 286, 312, 321 - 323, 335, 352, 353
    Pots 101, 104, 139, 148, 149, 153, 154, 169, 189,
    199, 209, 215, 235, 256, 274
    Potassium 142, 243, 277, 351
    Pot Bound See Rootbound 278
    Potency 39 - 41, 50, 105, 256, 257, 283, 285, 288,
    297, 328, 352, 357
    Powder bugs 265
    Power Gro 218
    Precipitation 217, 218
    Predator See Chapter 12
    Pre-flowering 68, 169 - 173, 176, 182
    Pressing 339
    Propagation See Chapter 3
    Pruning 50, 240, 245, 247, 248, 250, 251, 253
    Psychoactive 38, 346, 354
    Pumps 209, 211
    Punnett square299, 303, 305 - 308
    Purple 288, 292, 317, 329, 332, 334
    Pyrethrum 265
    Rabbits 265
    Racy 244, 255
    Radiation 123, 311, 350
    Recessive 289 - 294, 297 - 308
    Reefer 352
    Reflector 120, 121, 128, 136
    Re-flowering 32
    Reservoir 207 - 211, 213, 219, 220, 223, 225, 226, 230
    Resin See Trichomes
    Resistance 352
    Re-veging 32
    osmosis 225
    rH See Humidity
    Roach 352
    Rock-wool 83, 85 - 87, 89, 104, 172, 205, 206, 217,
    220, 221, 228 - 230, 259, 261, 262, 384
    Root Bound See Pot Bound 278
    Rot 353
    Ruderalis 35, 37, 47, 105
    Rust 225, 246, 353
    Safer's soap 269
    Salt 270
    Sand 144
    Sativa 35, 36
    Scale 118, 141, 225, 272, 346, 353
    Scorch 353
    Screens 338, 341,
    of Green) 188, 190, 191 - 196, 202, 244, 246, 253, 256
    nutrients 163 - 165
    Security See Chapter 4
    Seed-banks 51 - 56
    Seedling 66, 67, 77, 85, 88, 89, 91, 94, 128, 152, 354
    Seeds See Chapter 2
    Senescent 353
    Sepal 353
    Serrated 353
    Sexing 171, 172, 255
    Shavings 336, 330
    Shock See Stress
    Silk 337 - 339
    Silt 145, 146
    Sinsemilla 31, 73, 80, 181, 185, 312, 353
    Skuff 336, 337, 339 - 344, 349, 353
    Skunk 22, 55, 56, 57, 109, 110, 287, 293, 317, 326,
    Slugs 270
    Snail 270
    SOG (Sea of
    Green) 120, 188, 189, 191, 192, 194 - 196, 202,
    244, 253, 256
    Soil 66, 72, 84, 85, 88 - 91, 100, 101, 104, 107,
    119, 141 - 147, 151 - 164, 169, 188, 196,
    205, 206, 207, 208, 216, 217, 221, 222, 233,
    235, 238, 239, 244, 255 - 257, 259, 261,
    262, 271, 274, 278, 279, 345 - 347, 349,
    350, 356, 359, 360, 384
    Species See Indica, Sativa and Ruderalis
    Spider mites 63, 64, 88, 104
    Spliff 353
    Squaring 321
    trichomes See Trichomes
    Stamen 353
    Stash 56, 353
    Stem Break 225
    Sterile 273
    Stimuli 45
    Stipule 353
    Stoma 353
    Stout 353
    Strains 328
    cannabis 28, 337, 343
    Stress 24, 64, 177, 278, 326
    Substrate 351, 353
    Sugar 243
    Sulphur 163
    Switzerland 204
    Taxa 354
    TDS meter 219, 220
    Temperatures 131, 166, 358,
    Terminal 354
    Test Cross 297, 299, 302, 304, 307, 315, 316
    -cannabinol See THC
    industry 24
    stick 354
    THC 24, 31, 38, 39, 41, 44, 45, 47, 92, 105, 185,
    255, 282, 283, 335, 352, 354
    THCV 38
    Thermometer 166
    Thinning 242 - 247, 354
    Tie 88, 158, 247
    Timer 39, 120 - 122, 128, 176
    Toke 354
    Training 253, 254
    Traits See phenotype
    Transpiration 354
    Transplant 77, 85, 89, 90, 139, 143, 152, 159, 279, 354
    Trichomes 41 - 44, 335 - 338, 341, 342
    Trim 254, 281, 282, 336, 337, 339, 341, 342
    breeding See IBL
    Termites 271
    Twisting 277
    12/12 174 - 177, 182, 186, 189, 256, 282, 325
    Urine 265, 267
    Variations 192, 196, 287, 305, 311, 314, 315, 319, 323
    Vascular 223, 353, 354
    Veins 278
    Vent 130, 131, 197, 199
    Vermiculite 144, 354
    Viable 53, 72, 89, 285,
    Virus 335
    material 156
    indoor 153
    outdoor 238
    Wattage 120, 124, 128, 132 - 134
    Weeds 233 - 237
    Whitefly 269
    Whorl 346, 347, 355
    Wild 24, 177
    Wilt 154, 238, 267, 355
    Wilt Fungus 267
    Wind See Air
    Windows 87, 94, 99, 165
    Wire 115, 191, 194
    Withering 276
    Woodchuck 265
    Yields 235, 256, 361
    ZERO ZERO 39 - 41, 342
    Zinc 195, 331
    Zonked 335
    The materials presented in this publication are distributed by the
    publisher for information purposes only. The information is provided
    solely on the basis that readers will be responsible for making their
    own assessments of the subjects discussed and are advised to verify all
    relevant representations, statements, information and obtain
    independent advice, including legal advice, before acting on any of the
    information contained in or in connection with this publication.
    Although every care has been taken to provide information that is
    suitable for this publication we can not accept responsibility for
    unsuitable, incomplete or inaccurate material that may be contained in
    this publication.
    We make no claim as to the accuracy of the information in this
    publication, or the accuracy of the information provided by third
    parties connected to this publication.
    Whilst every effort has been made to ensure that the information is
    accurate, we will not accept any liability for any losses or damages
    which may be incurred by any person acting in reliance upon the
    The Cannabis Grow Bible
    © Copyright 2001, Greg Green
    All rights reserved.
    No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
    transmitted by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
    recording, or
    otherwise, without written permission from the author.

  2. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted by any means, electronic,
    mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the author.

    Hahahaha!! that's pretty funny :D

    thanks for taking the time to post that man,
    I downloaded the pdf without any problem. +rep
  3. i have lots of gowing vids a very very good video on growing hydro with a home made system but its a pretty big vid i need an upload place
  4. bookmarking
  5. bump..................................................
  6. Yeah, that's where you got the pics of the set-up you posted on the other thread...:D
  7. Get rapidshare manager from the RS website and upload on Rapidshare =]
  8. That Was The 1st Book I Ever Got,really Helps. If ya google it you get the PDF as the 1st one but the pix are in BnW.
  9. cannabus?


    ride the canna-bus
  10. Damn Doob,you musta got mad high today....LOL:hello:;)

  11. yeah dude i was/am mad baked :bongin:
  12. LMFAO,...nice!
  13. i alrdy posted this.
  14. That was easily the longest first post Ive ever seen. I have a bearing scroll on my mouse and it goes pretty fast, and damn did it take a long time to get to the first reply.
  15. Great post!
    it was a great read. When you talked about
    dominant & recessive i had a flashback to my 7th grade science class. It was exactly word for word the way my teacher explain it. lol.

    good luck with everything.

    :bongin: <-----I just like this smiley. he seems to be having a great time.
  16. thanks for that man. appreciated.
  17. Hey everybody. Can I get the rapidshare download for the grow bible for free somehow? Dont have money need the knowledge.:confused:
  18. Great Post. I wished I paid more attention in school ....oh never mind.
  19. wtf... what kind of crack have you been smokin?

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