From their site: "To develop heavier, tighter, sweeter fruits and blooms extremely quickly add PK 13-14 at the rate of 1 - 2 mL/L, three to four weeks before harvesting (week five or six of an eight week flowering cycle) to your nutrient tank. Then add flowering nutrient until your desired EC is reached. Use for one week only. Due to PK 13-14 being pharmaceutical grade never use it for more than one week! To radically accelerate the blooming response, improve quality and significantly boost flower yield add CANNABOOST Accelerator at 2-4 mL/L. For alternative use, follow directions as above, however add PK 13-14 without flowering nutrient until your desired EC is reached. Important precautions PK 13-14 is pharmaceutical grade so it’s essential to follow the directions exactly. Never use more than the recommended amount. Never use longer than the recommended time duration. When used as per the directions PK 13-14 will reward you with a sizeable increase in yield."
Bear in mind though, that if you're using nutrients such as GH bloom and micro, that adding extra phosphorus and potassium would be completely pointless. That's what sometimes people don't take into account. If your main feed is already high in both elements there's no need for any more. A simple understanding of the simple things helps a lot. The most important flower booster is safe and steady feeding. Lots of people don't believe it, but after time you really appreciate it.
It has been proven through plant tissue analysis in roots, stems and flowers that a high level of P is not needed or used by plants..Most plants typically use ~6:1 N ratio or there abouts..So yes, I agree if your base nutes have the proper levels relative to other elements as plant need/use then no additional PK booster should be supplied.. Reducing/withholding N when all other elements are adequately available at proper levels will/should induce blooming.. I have been running a dry fert schedule with no bloom booster whatsoever, none, and frankly have not seen a drop in yield and have experienced healthier(greener)plants till flush.. Healthy plants/leaves produce flowers, not a high(er) level of P or any so-called bloom booster.. M2cents worth..
Makes sense to me. Perhaps if someone wanted a default nutrient ratio and rough ec/ppm throughout the life cycle they could simply look at the grow guide's recommendations and the corresponding nutrient profiles and then deduce an optimum ratio throught a grow.
Yep, there's only a certain amount of nutrition a plant can take up and the rest is just bullshit. There's no money in truth. I've just bought some 2-2-3 tomato feed.... for £1. I'll start a seedling in it and see how it gets on. I've got a couple of freebies here I can use.
Yeah, that!..^^^^ Not saying all additives/supplements are bad..Used properly IF needed, some work as intended.. SOME I might add..
Ive got 5 ladies in coco, 2 weeks into flower, along with another in soil, same age. I have a slight problem. I don't have any ferts heavy in P for this stage..(for soil) so.. I'm thinking... could I use the same mix as the one I use for the cocos? Maybe diluted 50/50?. Otherwise, I need to locate a source of P, figure out how much to use, how to apply it etc.. What you think? I don't have ready access to stores.. but I'm sure there must be some commercial ferts heavy in P? I've looked in the garden stores - cant find any.. The Stoke The Stoke
Is your lady in soil also in a container?..AFAIK the reason a higher P level in outdoor soil was used/supplied is b/c it is easily leeched out in soil beds and it's ability to uptake outdoors in colder weather..Doesn't matter much in indoor container gardening..The plant(s) will uptake what they need/utilize and any additional P is a waste..Phosphate over-nuting can cause leaf chlorosis and it competes with iron(Fe) and maganese(Mn) and can cause deficiency's of these micros.. So yeah, give em the same mix and see how they do..At a lower ppm level..
Yes..they're all in airpots, and the soil is Allmix with noots already in and I've just been feeding her basic feed with top heavy N. , but I' m thinking that after two weeks in flower, they'd be running a bit low on P. I'll give it a try. Is ther any info anywhere on the NPK ratios of the Canna coco nutrients..? That would be handy... The Stoke
I've ordered a blumat system for the coco ladies..they're doing so well, thought I 'd reward them.... One thing I've noticed is that the static reservoir increases in ph about .1 per day. So, seems fair to me, if I'm going away for a few days...set the ph initially at say, 5.6' and after 4 days it would be around 5.9. I've been using an air curtain to keep the res fresh. Does that seem a reasonable sort of wheeze? Not ideal, but itll only be out of kilter for around two days... The Stoke
I've used and currently using Canna's rhizotonic for veg. No other nutrients in veg besides worm cast tea. But flower i am using Canna's BIOCanna line BioFlores and BioBoost at 1/4 strength in beginning and 1/2 strength weeks 3-4 of flower and up. Ofcourse with a week of straight water and one feedng of molasses and another week of flush. Buds are always tight and delicious!
See you guys use Canna's "other" stuff. See i like to keep it simple. If you go organic with peat moss and some Fox farms ocean forest cut one to one you can't screw it up. And i never go full dose with any product. Less is usually always more.