What kinda plant training did you roll with Foyle? LST? Topping? F.I.M? And how long did you veg for before switching to flower?
Vegged for about 6-7 weeks, topped at around week 3-4. Scrog. Harvested about 8-9 weeks after switching to flower.
At last, cfl lovers! I use 1 25o watt hy grow cfl Blum, on one plant, I run 6000k in veg 24 hour, I have netted my one plant and it has been tipped, pinched out the top leader to grow 2 leader heads, I now have 6 leaders on one plant and there all 2 " from my bulb, only two switch over to two, 2700k 250wat cfl witch last year got me great result, 12- 12 for flower. Ps use a big pot. Big roots, big plants, much love And get your water for a pound that has koi carp in. Then you know it's the right ph and it should be full of air, and organic benafits
LST or SCROG is almost necessary when using CFLs. Your harvest will be good if you provide the proper nutrients throughout the grow.
I actually ph'd my pond water yesterday and it was 7.5. This is a small ten foot by 5 foot oval pond with a recycling pump that draws water through a filter to keep the water from becoming green soup. I don't actually have Koi but I do have a dozen Comets (goldfish) - they still get pretty big - and they seem to like it there since they breed and I have several generations in there. Coincidentally I was in a discussion about pond water and the "pond scum" my filter collects on another thread because I need more Spirulina and don't like how much it costs - was hoping to substitute a little of that stuff but was worried about any bad stuff that might be in it. Anyway, I thought about watering with the pond water but the ph is too high for me right now - my current runoff is right at 7 and I need to knock it down a few points before I start throwing anything above 7 at them. I have read a number of posts vouching for pond water so as soon as I get a handle on my runoff I will probably give it a try, as well as seeing if a tea with a little pond filter scum is beneficial. If anyone can offer insight that would be great - I only have one grow - very successful - and I hate flying blind. Science!
I've heard that but I'm not sure I understand. If one were to go organic - I do and I've never used chemicals - and the runoff was phing way out or range - let's say super acid or super alkaline, would it not matter? My ph isn't way out of range - in fact I dropped it a couple a points this latest watering down into the upper 6 range, but it seems logical that if the ph wasn't in a happy range for the plant's needs you would still be getting nutrient lock out is some fashion or another. Btw - my mix is organic potting dirt (not MG), green sand, perlite, vermiculite, EWC, dolomite lime, alfalfa, and kelp meal.
It's not that Ph won't matter but you're suppose to have a mix that will give you as neutral Ph as possible. It is possible to f**k up your Ph is you have too much of one component. Some ingredients are very Alkaline (Lime) or Acid in higher concentrations. And if you have hard water or something you could also be throwing off the Ph.
That makes sense - thanks for clarifying. I've seen a bunch of posts with the blanket assertion more or less, "Go organic and PH don't matter" and was wondering about it since it seemed to defy logic. I guess since the runoff from my mix was right at 7 before I started a gradual down adjustment that I got it as neutral as could be
LED/CFL combo is the way to go. I got a QP dry with nothing more than 180 watt full spectrum ufo and 4 40 watt cfl's (with CFL go by true watt.. aka a 150 watt equivalent cfl is only 40 watts). use LED for veg then once flower hits get those Y-splitter sockets and put 2 40 watt 2700k bulbs on each side of plant.. Your lower growth will be as dense as top nugs. LED makes shit frosty as can be too. I've been smoking weed for 16 years. what I grew was some of the best smoke I'd ever had.. not because I grew it but because they smell/taste/high were out of this fucking world.
When you hear this from organic gardeners they are referring to organic soil mixes based on good quality compost and/or vermicompost. These items are high in both microbial life and humic acids. An organic soil mix is "dynamic" - meaning that the pH will fluctuate up and down depending on which organic matter happens to be breaking down at a given time - and that's ok. Between the soil microbes and humic acids the soil pH will be regulated and buffered and it will not matter if the pH rises or lowers. I haven't checked or adjusted pH of anything in a number of years. Quality compost is the key to the whole deal. It is crucial to use good viable compost loaded with living organisms. Without this key component as the basis for your soil soil pH is much, much more of a consideration. J
Hey which UFO do you have. I'm using a ProSource 180w LED from 2010 that has been a champ. Hasn't let me down yet. Combined with CFL's on splitters, I get good yields. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Search the net for Dr. Bud Greenjeans. That fool (not a fool) was using cfls in a mini grow and produced some serious weight. Its all about how you do it. I loved the 6500k for vegging and always tossed a few 6500s into my flower room to help out my 2 600hps units. Dont let anyone tell u that it cant be done well with CFLs. I know tjis is an old thread, but for the younglings that want to know, again, search for Dr. Bud Greenjeans.
I'm enjoying the rapid growth with mine. I like cfls. Easy to work with. I built panels for mine. One 500 actual watt 30x30 with fan cooled reflector hood and a 690 actual watt 45x45 passive cooled setup. Both are working very nicely but extensive plant training is more than necessary. I'm growing sativa hybrid so it's big but only using the top 12 inches. After that idk how growing a foot away would work so keep em small and they'll do fine Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum