Can someone help me analyze my water/soil tests?

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by Ancient3328, Jun 13, 2019.

  1. Hey guys, I just got my test results back from Logan Labs and am quite confused honestly haha. I understand the numbers but don't know what they mean in relation to whether or not I will be okay moving forward with my soil/water. This water is just from my tap and I am hoping I will be able to use it for my no-till set up as I have been paying an arm and a leg for poland springs for a couple of years now. My soil is a first round soil that I grew in one time and had pretty good luck in. I mixed it following the no-till revisited thread and my only mess up was top dressing far too often but I have lived and learned from it. Anyways I am going to attach the pictures to this thread in the hopes that someone can help me figure this out. Thank you all!
  2. Here are the pics guys

    Attached Files:

  3. Sorry man. I am the absolutely worst/wrong guy to ask about this. This is the reason I personally got away from hydroponic gardening… Because I don’t want my own gardening tips be a science or anything that I need to figure out.

    Hopefully one of the other fellas can help you out.

  4. @jerry111165 Ahh darn no worries Jerry! Btw I am only getting this report for organic growing. I just wanted to know if my tap water would be sufficient to grow with.
  5. #6 Ancient3328, Jun 14, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019
    Anyone have any input? I am just trying to figure out if my water will cause any issues in a no-till set up. Thank you guys!

    Edit: So I have done some more research and have found that all I have that may be an issue is slightly high sodium and chloride. From what I read anything over 50ppm for sodium could be an issue and anything over 70ppm for chloride could be an issue. Considering my sodium is 52ppm and my chloride is 78ppm do you guys think I need to take any measures to remediate that or should it be fine because they're so close to the amounts stated?

  6. I'll be happy to give an opine i just cant do so atm. kinda upside down with me arse up higher than me elbows mate! and no, no, NO! i am not "assuming the position" as it's said. :bongin::bongin::bongin:... i just be busier than 3 mofos rat now :smoking:
  7. @Possuum Haha quite possibly the best response ever! I appreciate it a bunch no immediate rush, I am just so excited to be able to save 15 bucks a week on water haha. The soil has also been run once but has been sitting for about 3 months now. I am planning on transplanting into that soil this weekend and will re-inoculate with microbes and such. From my research so far it looks like I should be good to go on the soil and I believe my water will be okay. I haven't been able to dissect the saturated paste report yet though so that one I definitely need some guidance on. Thanks bruddah!
  8. well, i'm not sure this reply will be my only reply but i can offer these observations to start. there is at minimum one very, very, important lesson to be learned here; organic gardeners tend to over compensate with their organic inputs often times resulting in a lot of excess elements both soluble and insoluble and this show true in both the soil test and the paste report.

    by definition the saturated paste report details the soluble cation and anions in the soil water solution that are immediately available for root absorption. the soil test report indicates the cations and anions in the soil that are available just not immediately. the paste report is like cash in hand and the soil test report is like a savings account. i think we can see that there are plenty of cations and anions both in cash and in savings.

    fwiw i measure all my nutrient sources in Tbsp per cf these days. gone for me are the days of, "one cup of this, two cups of that, a bunch of 1/2 cups of this and that", etc., ultimately ending up with four or six cups per cf. of nutrients that's way too much. plants grow just fine on a lot less of total nutrients typically expressed as ppm's when using synthetic fertilizers. just think about that and let it sink in.

    your soil tests on the higher limits of ca, mg, na, and cl. high ca and mg can cause interference with p uptake. there's not much to do about high na and cl except ro water or dilution. you could consider collecting rain water, using distilled water, or using bottled water known to have low levels of na and cl. you would have to figure out an appropriate dilution ratio but 1:1 would be a good place to start (50/50).

    all your micronutrients and ph are in the right zone. with the exception of the na and the cl you're pretty much good to go imo. all the other reported variables would be acceptable for greenhouse operations. the telling piece of all is really in the paste report and the soil report. it really shows to me some very important consideration should be given to "how much" of something we add per cf to grow a plant, how much is actually used by a growing plant, and what we need to think about when we reuse our soil if we plan on amending the soil before next use.

    consider the dilution method for reducing na and cl and study both paste and soil report before amending for reuse.

    that's about all i have atm without writing a whole bunch of stuff down and getting deep into the weeds on the ppm and balance of elements scale.

    hth's. just an opinion.
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  9. @Possuum Thank you for all of that valuable information! So, considering I have been using Poland Springs for years now and am dying to switch back to tap water, do you think with the high amounts of na and cl in my soil I would have issues using the tap water pictured in the third picture? I definitely top dressed this soil too much which is why I think there is so much both in the checking and savings account lol. My initial mix was pretty spot on to the no-till revisited mix but as I said I went a little crazy with top dressing. Do you think I could use this soil as it sits with good luck? I am hoping I can as I do not have any other soil made but I would much rather buy some soil from BAS or KIS and spend money there rather than fight things the whole way through my grow.

    Is there a way without RO to lower na and cl in my soil? Moving forward I will NOT be top dressing anything except one small application (2-3tbsp) of MBP before I initiate flowering. Not in this soil but my other soil I have going now which is going AMAZING...probably because I haulted all the top dressing lol.
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  10. #11 Possuum, Jun 14, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2019
    i'm not the definitive source but ...

    sodium, salinity, and salt are often used interchangeably but depending on the context they mean different things. i think logan labs is your best bet for interpreting those meanings on their report. when we hear the word 'salt' we immediately think of table salt - sodium chloride but 'salt' also means an ionic form of an element. sodium is an element but doesn't necessarily taste salty. salinity is a measure of saltiness. idk how they specifically use those terms. SAR is the result of na ÷ (1/2ca+mg). what does that really mean esp when EC levels are low :confused_2: (EC measuring the conductivity of 'salts' whatever form and element each represents - 'salts')

    i think you're ok but it's worth a phone call to verify (and you should). and yes, dilution of your tap water is certainly an option. dilute with distilled, rain water, or water with known low levels of chloride, sodium, and 'total alkalinity'.

    sorry to be vague but i cant be exact, rather, taking an educated guess.
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  11. @Possuum I will be reaching out to Logan Labs today to clarify on those points you brought up. In the mean time, do you think I will be needing to dilute my water or was that just more of a useful tip for future situations? I am hoping I can just fill from the tap and use it as my schedule is a little crazy and I normally don't have much extra time or a good location to set up rain water catches and things like that.

    Is RO an option for no-till if I somehow have to go that route? I only ask because I have heard back and forth in regards to if RO will cause problems in no-till because it is so void of basically everything.
  12. take a look at this link Interpreting Irrigation Water Tests and see if it helps explain some line items on your report.

    but this is a good read from a nursery grower's perspective because in the narrative for each element there's detail about both its limiting effect as well as toxic effect when considered with other line item readings. maybe give these references a perusal before calling logan so what they explain as part of their analysis process might make more sense. clear as mud lol? water quality is highly variable depending on the whole picture versus perhaps only one or two paramters. hope this makes sense and i'm not trying to dodge the question.

    this is a pdf.

    as for ro and no till gardening, if we, as organic gardeners, are depending on our irrigation water to supply ppm of micronutrients or supplemental macronutrients then we have certainly missed the boat on basics. with proper planning i believe any theorized shortcoming ro water might bring to the no till paradigm could be easily accounted for by other means. glacial rock dust immediately comes to mind as one of several amendments that provide ppm's of macro and micro nutrients. then there's ewc, compost, kelp, etc, etc.

    as for me, what i expect out of my water is one H molecule and two O molecules and nothing more. if it didnt have anything else in it i would be good with it.

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  13. @Possuum Thank you for that link, that really helped me understand the full grasp of what this test is saying.

    I also love and agree with what you said regarding water. Now, for an RO system, do you just line the waste water into a drain? My room is on a second floor and does not currently have a drain but does have a water line in. I have a handyman friend who can do anything I need but I just wanted to know what I was in for potentially beforehand.

    Thank you again!
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  14. #15 Possuum, Jun 19, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2019
    glad that helped @Ancient3328. help spread the word eh.

    as for a discharge line, it can be run anywhere there's a drain. i assume you would set the ro up semi permanently near a water source. if there's no drain where the water is with a bit of ingenuity the discharge can be dumped into one container and using a float switch and submersible pump pump it off somewhere else. these lines are pretty small diameter and easy to fiddle with. but of course i'm a couple years behind the curve on current ro units.

    depending on your daily water needs how many gallons of discharge do you anticipate?

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