So this started at 5wks into flowering organic soil mix in 20L pots (lime, soft rock phosphate, bat guano, kelp, crab meal, a bit of chicken shit) (40% peat 40% perlite 20% compost) this mix has grown amazing plants before, I have posted a pic of some Initial mix was measured at 6.5 pH, I took a slurry test from the pots when problems started and pH is at 6.9 now. spring water of pH 7.5 and 180ppms 600w led, 30C, 58 RH am I seeing plants being deficient or locked out ? Is it Ca or P or both since they tend to work together? Also thinking it might be due to high alkalinity water at 180ppm and some carbonates have been dumped in the soil overtime since I dont water to runoff due to all my nutes being in the soil. This strain might have a hard time taking up Ca and P at pH 6.9. Thoughts? View attachment 2937910
to me it looks more like nitrogen how they fade yellow then start brown splotching both phosphorus and calcium the leaves stay green. p will brown blotch and Calcium will have rusty or brown circles but on green leaves
I’d get a water test ASAP. high alkalinity and bicarbonates really gave me fits for quite awhile. I’m 100% RO water now. ElRanchoDeluxe has a good thread... water quality I wish I was cool enough to link you right to it! @Chunk ... help a brother out?
I just tested the water. pH 7.5 General hardness: 8dGH (144ppm) Carbonate hardness: 7dKH (126ppm) bicarbonates not reported sadly
Doesn't really matter what deficiency it is, as long as it's a deficiency and not an issue due to unbalanced pH, over watering, or nutrient lockout which is caused by unbalanced pH or excessive nutrients. If you can check those off the list leaving only deficiency every deficiency is handled the same way. More nutrients your in flower so more flower nutrients make sure it contains some nitrogen more phosphorus and some potassium a amendment tea would be nice here along with a small top dress. My concern would be I have enough nutrients just pH isn't allowing for proper uptake and adding more nutrients would hurt more than help. I would also consider the unbalanced pH as nutrients are taken in by the roots at different pH levels in soil of 6.3 -6.7 if you're feeding the microorganisms in soil your pH should be between 6.2 and 6.8 always trying to hit 6.5. 7.5 pH will upset your roots environment making it inhospitable for organisms to thrive and in turn slowing down the breaking down of nutrients.
I kinda doubt its deficiency based as I have other cuts of different strains without these symptoms, much bigger flowers too. im seriously looking into my water as the root of the problems
Given that thread my hardness is around 150ppm which is bad and my alkalinity (based on carbonate hardness) is 126ppm. Surely it is water no? The question now is do i pH my water or do I have to change my water source completely. If I understand alkalinity and pH correctly then pHing wont change the fact that the water will remain hard/alkaline
pH is the acidic, neutral, or alkalinity of the water 7 being neutral. pH up or pH down is used to change water pH 150ppms isn't bad mines 800 why I use r/o water. Do you let your tap sit for at least 24 hours to let the chlorine gas off?
Never use a plant or plants to judge what an issue could or couldn't be every plant can be different in the amount of nutrients they use, and environment they prefer. not saying that's your issue just a heads up you can only judge a plant by it's symptoms and what you've been putting in and what your mediums environment is, not by other plants.
The spring water I get to ferment wine reads 0ppm, mines probably filtered or something tho. sorry I read you used spring water brain fart
@waktoo and @ElRanchoDeluxe are IMO, the two experts on this site as far as water quality and related issues. I just sent them a bat signal to see if you can get their input on your issue.
To answer your question though, yes you can bring it down with citric acid. There are quite a few other tactics. Diluting the spring water with an RO unit is easy. A/C or dehumidifier condensate works too. 10-20% or so will get you in range. Another way is to do nothing but increase your soil mass, especially if your tossing it. It could also be as simple as omitting the chicken shit (it’s a diluted liming agent w 1/10 the calcium carbonate equivalent of ag lime. SRP is a liming agent, same with crab. Cutting back on them may be the ticket. This barely seems like an issue at all…especially if your soil gets tossed. RD
I’m usually not tossing any soil and don’t really plan to, if needed I dilute with peat and re-amend. I guess I will dilute and pH the water in the future and monitor the soil. Not sure about cutting stuff tho as I already cut things from before, here’s where I am at regarding soil mix for the last 2 years: Per 2 cft (70L) i add: 3 cups kelp 1 cup crab meal 1 cup bat guano 1 cup chicken shit 1 cup rock dust mix for silica and micros half cup lime half cup soft rock phosphate
Ok, I did a proper lab analysis for irrigation water. pH 7.5 EC 0,25 TDS 160ppm Ca 33ppm Mg 6ppm K 2ppm Na 7ppm nitrates 3ppm Zn 0,07ppm Cu ND B ND Fe ND Mn ND bicarbonates 120ppm According to these numbers the water is fucked, low Ca, low Mg, low K, high bicarbonates @ElRanchoDeluxe