Bz , Rolex , stardawg

Discussion in 'Organic Grow Journals' started by 2cent420, Feb 10, 2023.

  1. Peat
    Ewc 2 different types
    Lava n pearlite
    1:1:1 mix 360 litres (45lpot)

    Amendments added
    Bran 1cup a cuf
    Malt barley 1cuf
    Alfalfa 1/4cup cuf

    kelp 300g with fungi n microbes
    Rockdust 4cup cuf
    Gypsum 1cup cuf
    Oyster 6 cups total told to wait due to ph
    and A sheep wool comfrey bracken compost 30l mixed in

    fabric pots which I will be installing into a swick system shortly once I figure it out lol

    plants was root bound and have recovered in 2 weeks and growing outside the pots now
    I will be taking tent down and opening the room so using scrog to train them currently

    will run soil test at end of flower to see what to amend next ewc will carry this with alfalfa and the bran malt feed the microbes n fungi to get em going

    I’ve used em1 innoculant and use fulvic acid and fish hydrolysate when needed
    I will foilar mg if needed with dissolved gypsum at ppm ca:mg 150:60 which I found productive to reduce led fatigue .
    Never feed mg to soil it fucked it up last time

    why do some images fail to upload fffsss

    @TimJ @BrassNwood @Organic sinse Any many others my goldfish mind can’t remember doesn’t mean your not important too
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  2. Looks good. I add 1 cup per cubic foot of Kelp meal. I'm not sure how some of your other inputs react in the soil as I've never used them. Bran and sheep wool compost.
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  3. Grabs Chair.
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  4. What does the alfalfa do
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  5. This link will answer many of your questions. Alfalfa is on page one.

    Organic Higher Learning Resources
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  6. Thanks for the thread. Probably will try the tea method first before planting. Cool thread nice!
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  7. This is seeming to effect the bigger plants and slowly moving to my smaller plants

    The big ones are a month older than my smaller front row

    I feel like they become root bound fast as I can’t even dig soil for ph testing
    All soil was from the same mix so should be even
    I did notice the ones effected drink water a lot faster too .

    what is happening here as you can see the smallest plant front left is healthy green which makes me think it’s due to wanting more soil volume root bound in a bloody 50litre in 15days.
    @Organic sinse My plan here is to add 15litres more peat ewc Perl with alfalfa lime rock dusts at the ratio same as soil mix
    Sound ok?
    and I will flip as soon as she appears heathy I was only waiting for the others to catch up size wise

    (my same soil mix in a full bed has no problems )

    I can see iron and zinc potassium and ca all in 1 plant must be from its water demand especially if others not as heavy (she had biggest roots at repot )

    Attached Files:

  8. This is the smaller size I’m also having file upload error randomly on some inages FB5E21AB-B129-417F-BDC2-E4FDB280E692.jpeg 576AB7A9-BD65-4A6C-8CA2-DDC1F2B4D59E.jpeg 324F8495-34CF-4E75-A619-924FE0DC788D.jpeg
  9. I'm trying to think how I can help, but I'm stumped. :confusedalt:

    I don't think the "green" one is healthy though...With the leaf deformities, I could see if fading pretty quickly in time.

    Your garden overall, it doesn't look like nute burn to me. Root rot may be a part of it. imbalanced pH of your media mix could be a leading factor. Unsure if environmental conditions could be a factor
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  10. What leaf deformities are you seeing bro ? I can’t see anything on the green plant except topped heads ,
    Yes I have a vpd issue where I am at 22c and they want it warmer that will change in a day or 2 with the room upgrade from tent .

    the noticeable difference was due to when I came in the effected was drying shrinking from sides of the pot hungry fuckers drank a lot so I picked up waterings a bit and will put them on a swick system soon

    I have myco on them which I’ve struggled to get rot with but I have managed to cure rot using them and run my old hydro at 28c no chiller using bennies only so I don’t think I have rot the roots are white and aggressively coming out the soil ,u fortunately the soil pic won’t upload with forum bug arrghh

    I seriously think they have filled the soil root wise and are now wanting more room
    They was in 10l pots root bounding before transplanting into 50l

    others were smaller younger seeds that went in from 1l root bound pots but now they have filled out I feel there also going the same way the corner one has and the other at the back there

    time has done this starting with the bigger rooters ,drying out the medium isn’t meant to happen and can upset ph so I think that has some play
    I will do a ph test as found online
    Step 1 water and wait 5mins
    Step 2 water a bit more so she leaks
    Step 3 test runoff ph as it will have sat in medium ,

    she has too many roots to grab any soil out without ripping roots for slurry test

    move given a foil at spray kelp as that bypasses the roots and helps deficiency’s he’s faster but that doesn’t help me as it masks what’s happening

    purple stems also is led normal most say but I found a post saying it’s related to ca and phosphorus deficiency so I could be low in phos
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  11. I circled a few areas of cell collapse, leaf deformity, and leaf twisting. Not suggesting the plant will die tomorrow.... its just an early sign is all...

    FB5E21AB-B129-417F-BDC2-E4FDB280E692 - Copy.jpeg
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  12. #13 TimJ, Feb 20, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2023
    A soil slurry test should be done using soil from your rootzone. 5-6" below your growing medium top surface. Mix 1/2 cup medium with 1/2 cup "distilled water". I believe you will find your mediums pH to be very high. This will lead to the plant symptoms you are seeing. Run off pH will not be an accurate measure of growing mediums pH, neither will a sample from the surface.
    Mix your 1/2 cup sample and distilled water then wait 15 minutes. Mix again and then measure your pH.
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  13. #14 DyersEve726, Feb 20, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2023
    Interesting set of problems you have. Looks like you're dealing with chlorosis only on young growth, correct? So it's moving from top to bottom, which means you're most likely dealing with an immobile nutrient deficiency or lockout. It most closely resembles manganese, zinc, or iron deficiency to me, the yellowing, at least. Maybe pick up a nice micro nutrient mix and give that a go? TM7?

    EDIT: Looks like the nutrients I mentioned can all be locked out by too high of ph, so keep that in mind.
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  14. BTW, I forgot to mention that I just got done dealing with the same issue. Thirsty, large plant in a too small container. I was giving a gallon every other day, then a gallon and a half, then I started doing a gallon to a gallon and a half of water every day in a 10 gal pot. She sucked it all up and the pot was totally dry every morning. If you're finding the pot bone dry every day, I wouldn't be afraid to water till the bottom is wet every single day. I don't think root rot is a concern if it's drinking everything you give it every day. Mine is gonna make it to finish, but it was close to being a real problem. We're honestly going through the same growing pains right now, lol. My tent is gonna have two 30 gals (114 liters) next go round. Lesson learned.
  15. Appreciate the help loads I do hope your wrong and will moniter that, that growth though came on a heavy water did when correcting the effected one being bone dry it’s the ripple and twist that comes with overwatering unfortunately that’s the wettest pot

    @TimJ will do this in the morning will have to rip some roots to do it unfortunately as the whole pot is a root
    And hope ph isn’t high as that lol @Organic sinse told me to hold off on the oyster and lime when I had 6 of 24 cups added just incase of ph going high lol so if this is the case I’m bloody glad I listenened lol
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  16. I check my pH after I chop my previous plant. And before I amend and replant. It makes checking pH easier at that point.
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  17. Haha defiantly tim, fighting against the evils here , new soil mix ph was 5.8 at start sat for a week too, plants that are in my 100gal bed have the same soil mix and looks lush as fook , difference here is pot size same volume same plants just no room for a full bed up there but as new soil and plant in action am kinda left to one option eeek .. dig so I’ll sprinkle some myco on her roots when I do eh says add direct to roots so lol
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  18. 5C3101B5-942D-4C4F-8BD6-4FFBEBB3C44F.jpeg 5BC883D6-25CA-486E-9927-BB37C31DAD06.jpeg 3CB430F7-A587-46E2-9BC8-41CF18544787.jpeg 3F40088A-CEEE-4BC9-9496-1CEE2E9F0BB1.jpeg 089E9F96-63F0-4772-AFCB-B8867147F86C.jpeg

    @TimJ this is from dry look 2 litre red yesterday this is a handful from 1/4 the way down

    So 35cm soil this is at 25 as I can’t get deeper without damage more roots , you can see how dry it is here then my ro water new filter 6.5 ph equal water in , nice white roots I can’t even rip them lol zero rot just very root full pot I seriously can’t dig 1cm

    ph is settled at 6.85 (bareinmind there was no buffer if being in wet soil as I think I saw dry soil mix will raise ph right??)
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  19. If you're confident in your meters calibration. I'd say you're dealing with a root bound plant. I see similar signs with large outdoor plants that fill the pot with roots. They seem to dry out fast and are always hungry. Shorter vegetative growth cycles to fit the pot size used is the answer. It's a real PIA to keep feeding teas and top dressing a root bound plant if you ask me. If your medium is dry you may want to consider using soap nuts to help hydrate it again. Soapnuts have a higher surfactant content over aloe and yucca.
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