here's the start of my bubblebucket grow i am using T8 flourescents 2 6500k and 2 2500k i am using DM gold nutrient part A-B 24/0 lighting temp is 75 degrees and humidity is at 75%. I have two airstones per bucket each is on a seperate pump as a fail safe. i am using a hanna EC/TDS/PH temperature compensated meter. I am only using distilled water. this pic is my blackjack feminized seeds pre germination. this is my space 12 feet long 4 feet wide 7 feet tall this is my door for a 4x4 flowering station(i have two soil bagseed females in there) my custom two T12 reflectors converted to one T8 with 4 bulbs my three blackjack girls two days after germination(the other two are just barely poking through the soil)
Looks like you did your research jenny, I use multiple airpumps too when I run my dwc rig. How many watts are you planning on using in the flower room? You can fit alot of plants in that space!
356 watts matbe more i was wondering if i should base this on lumens more than watts i currently have 11000 lumens and i was hoping to lst your opinnion would be great. I did so much research i about clawed my eyes out while looking at the computer screen
Have you ever LST'd it seems that i cant find a very specific formula as to when you start some have plants that are quite big others not so much is there a general rule of thumb i should follow?
LST..low stress training.... yes i do practice that... you can start as soon as they are tall enough to tie over... your intent is to bend them so the light reaches the lower growth... LBH has a thread somewhere on it.. he is a nice guy.. look him up... i bet his sig has a link to the thread im thinking of... its very simple to do...tie them over and each day pull them a lil more... fimming will also help the lower growth come up to the canopy... i think the beginners forum has stickies that explain both... made by dierwolf a great gardener that isnt around anymore... let me know if ya cant find em...
excellent thanks again i'll look them up post haste. I would+rep you again but i do not have the authoriti
SLiNGER I thought you only helped out to keep people away form the dark side of the force LST and Topping tutorial - by LBH scrog tutorial - by greenmonster714 Theres no pics but you basically make a screen with 2x2 holes in it or use trellis netting from the garden center. Place this on a frame and put above your plants at a predetermined height, usually about 10-20" above your buckets lid and then you just tuck the shoots that grow above the screen below it again until your screen is evenly filled out and your ready to flower. Just another option for ya to use. It can be combined with LST but theres really no need for both if your using the other. I definately recommend fimming/topping your plants if you want your nugs to be similar sizes. Read through some of the grows on here and pick what you think looks easiest/interests you the most. Well help ya out along the way
after reading them both i think this is officially my first buublebucket LST grow thanks a bunch goonie
Alright just checked them #1was at PH6.4 EC.84 I ph downed to 5.7 water temp is 75 degrees #2ph6.2 EC.94 PH'd to 5.7 water temp 75 #3 PH6.0 EC.92 PH'd to 5.7 temp 75 for reference i am using DM nutrient calc at 4.5 gallons aggressive. 4 weeks veg and 7 weeks flower
Im sure you know you wanna keep your ph at 5.6-5.8 but when you do big changes like that it can negatively affect the plant. I try not to do more than .5 a day. Im sure once you get your system down you wont have any problems. Im guessing DM nutrient calc is an abbreviation for Dutch Master?
yeah DM is dutch masters and my PH seems to climb about .2 per day so i assume has something to do with nutrients being used correct me if i'm wrong please I just added mylar to my reflector and the tops of my buckets any input on this would be appreciated thanks you city folk are great. #1 pic got deleted ill post it later mylar reflector #3 #2 with mylar lid
Hey jenny, if ppm is rising and ph is dropping then your plants are drinking more water than they are eating nutes. If your ppms are dropping and ph is rising then they are eating more than they can drink. You want to find a balance where the ratio to what they drink is equal to the ppms they uptake. For example if they are drinking a gal of water a day that is set at 1000 ppms but they are only drinking 600 of those ppms then your ph will rise and your ppms will drop. If your water is at 400 ppms and they are drinking 600 ppms per gal then your ph will drop and your ppms will rise. Yours looking for the perfect balance so if the ph rises and the ppms drop then give them more food to keep it balanced. Same with vice versa, ph drops and ppms rise = too much food. Im sure your not anywhere near those levels but I was trying to give you a basic idea of how to balance your solution. If you got any question me, slinger, IMgreen and a ton of other hydro nuts will be able to help you out. Shoot me or any of them a pm and im sure theyll be happy to help. If I were you my ppms wouldn't be above 200-300. Thats just how I roll with my plants though so yours could be completely different. Imo it is alot easier to deal with a deficiency than an overdose (nuteburn.) If id ever used advanced nutes id be able to help you more but im a lucas formula fan and keeping it simple works for me. Look up some other growers that use dutch master in hydro and they should have their ppms or how many ml/gal they use listed in their thread. PM them if they dont/you have questions. GL JENNY!
jenny you should remove that mylar from the hydroton plant leaves are not made to take light underneath. think to yourself does the sun ever rise under a tree? plants love light just not too much underneath. other then that you look to be right on track
