Brown spots moving closer and closer to the top :(

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by debbiechronicle86, Jun 26, 2017.

  1. Hi guys..
    I'm a little bummed b/c I finally got humidity down, and the air flowing like I like, but now I see brown spots on the NEW growth of my plant. It's about 2 weeks into flowering (from when I first saw a white hair) and yeah there were brown spots in the bottom but I kinda was told it was normal (which it is!) but then brown dots started moving up. I'm worried my plant wont make it too the end of july! And I'm starting to see buds (I even gave her her first flowering nutes yesterday). Here's my set up:

    Soiless medium: Promix bx (unaltered)
    Space: 5 gallon Space bucket
    Light: 135 W UFO, 5050 LED light strip 60W
    Pot: 5 gallon smart pot :)
    Water: regular ole tap water
    Nutes: General Organics Go Box (gave him first nutes 3 days ago)
    Light cycle: 18/6

    please if you guys could answer two of my questions that would be awesome

    1) is my whole plant gonna die because of this, because I still have a good 30-40 days left
    2) is my problem that my tap water is too acidic or too basic (the promix and the general organics claim they don't need to be pHed, and I figure it's gotta be the tap water, or else I got a bad batch of both)

    And guys PLEASE keep in mind I am flat broke, my next payday I'm only able to get a cheap TDS meter, another cheap pH pen, and maybe some pH UP/down IF my check is enough (my job doesn't pay well), I only mention this because another post mentioned 50 expensive products I couldn't afford..

    Thank you so much guys!

    Attached Files:

  2. Brown spots won't kill ur plant i can't open photo to check but are u using cal mag

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  3. I am using Cal mag, maybe not enough?
  4. Okay so the first thing that really threw me through a loop in your set up is you're in your 2nd week of flowering but are still doing 18/6? You need to switch that asap to 12/12 because the nutrients you're adding is based off of lighting. Regarding your brown spot problem there's a few issues that could be. The main issue and the one I'd say it is, is unbalanced PH. Straight tap water is usually in the 7-9 PH range. You want to mix your nutrients and then read your PH. There's no cheap way around PH so next time you have money invest in a proper reading device (blue lab) is what I'd recommend. Brown spots are normal in SOME cases. When you don't prune them eventually the bottom leaves will get sucked dry of their nutrients to supply the canopy closer to the light. But if they're spreading to the top of your canopy that sounds like it could be a few things (considering I can't see your picture). If you reply with pictures I can give you a closer guess on what the issue is. Sounds like PH for sure. Also for future reference general organics is really the lowest of the barrel nutrients. I used it for my first grow and I will never use it again. You can still get cheap nutrients that don't destroy your wallet like advanced nutrients does. Check out something like emerald harvest if anything. But here's the info you were really looking for. Question #1 we need pictures BUT I'd doubt it. If it's light yellow blotches than it's PH, hungry, or thirsty so it looks like something to do with your feeding/PH. Question #2 I would agree it's the PH even if it states it's PH balanced. If I'm correct general organics isn't PH balanced so if you add a bunch of that to tap water it SHOULD raise the PH by a good amount when you want it to be between 5-6 PH. While you're probably at 8 PH which would most definitely start yellowing the plant. Good luck and happy growing!

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    Attached Files:

  6. heres a picture guys! What do you think? sorry I thought a zip file would work lol Also I haven't changed the light cycle because I was under the impression you don't need to do that for autoflowers. That they don't care about their light cycle since they're on their own clock.
    Ok i can appreciate the honesty about the pH, I'll definitely save up for one for future growing

    thanks for your help!
  7. Oh shit okay, well now that I can see them that's not PH man that's magnesium and phosphorous deficiency if I had to guess. Even more accurately I'd say that's the progression stage of phosphorous deficiency. I'm a ebb and flood guy myself so about the autoflowering part you're probably right since I don't dabble in that area much. ALSO on top of it all I don't know exactly how to help you since I'm in the hydroponics area. For us we just need to add additives if we're having deficiencies. Usually does the trick. So I'd look up phosphorous progression stage deficiency. Good luck and happy growing!

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  8. Thanks! i will :)
  9. Looks like the same problem I'm having on younger plants, I'm leaning toward Phosphorus deficiency. I've started to get root rot over the last couple days which I imagine is a factor. With autoflowers you can keep your 18/6 light cycle through flowering.
    You use tap water? Do you let it sit for 24 hours (without a lid) before using it or run airstones in it for an hour? (this is to remove Chlorine, it's something I didn't do with my most recent reservoir change and if you also didn't do it maybe that's a thing)
    I guess a major difference is I'm in hydro vs your soil.
  10. Not if they autos he don't

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  11. U don't need too shame u never started on 20on 4 off autos love the extra light

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  12. Nope I kept it at 18/6 to spare the electric bill lol
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  13. Whoa of it's root rot I'll be really annoyed I elevated the pot and everything to add air to the roots, plus it's a smart pot which helps with oxygen up take down there.

    I use filtered tap water but idk if it has chloramine in it or what.
  14. No it won't 20.4 will finish faster so works out just the same ur 18.6 will take few weeks longer

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  15. But I hear u I've spent 90 pound a week for over 70 weeks I've reduced my hps by half fingers crossed I get half decent results a 1.2x1.2 meter tent don't need over 5000wats of light so time to get my bill under 50 a week

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  16. That makes sense, too late now I guess. But I like this cuz now I know for next time
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  17. Filtering won't remove chlorine from tap water, if you fill a container with water and leave it in a dark area (no light; prevent algae forming) with the lid off for 24 hours the chlorine evaporates. If you put an airstone in it, it's supposed to remove the chlorine in like an hour.
    Chlorine is always present in tap water, and will bind to parts of your nutrient solution and make it unusable for the plant.
    This information probably doesn't relate to your current problem, but the more you know I guess.
  18. Wait really? Damn, but yeah the more you know.

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