I just did a mixed FPE,comfrey,dandelion root,nettles, all dried. It's the last time. Not that if had adverse affects. But for experiments sake I'm gonna stick with one ingredient for now. I've done 2 now the other was alfalfa alone and the growth after was amazing....well worth the smell and the ear full of Shit I heard over it.LMFAO And as far as keeping it. Also for experience/experiment I've added more water to them since I just strained a couple ounces off, and I'm gonna let it sit until the plant material is mostly liquid,then mix and use at the same ratio..... I'm thinking of reconsidering tho, maybe some advice. My alfalfa literally smells like a garbage truck on a hot summer day...COMPLETELY FOWL AND DOWN RIGHT DISGUSTING. Is this normal??? I know I read smelly but smelly is feet this is a whole other level. BeZ...V
BeZ, the smell sucks on most of the FPE's I've made. But you can use alfalfa, kelp, or any of the dried herbs in a top dressing or a quick bubble or just a soak or slurry. If it's fresh or dried the smell is much better. I'm not sure of the amounts but using these as soil amendments should work too.....MIW
[quote name='"MI Wolverine"'] BeZ, the smell sucks on most of the FPE's I've made. But you can use alfalfa, kelp, or any of the dried herbs in a top dressing or a quick bubble or just a soak or slurry. If it's fresh or dried the smell is much better. I'm not sure of the amounts but using these as soil amendments should work too.....MIW[/quote] I do have alfalfa and kelp meal on my soil amungst a few other things. Not nearly the lengthy list others use but its doing its thing and ill slowly add amendments and experiment. I plan on growing the rest of my life and I'm only 30 so I have time to learn at my own pace. I've achieved my first and most important goal, good quality, great in my own opinion. As I'm sure you know I've used AACT several times and I like the results.... So know its FPE time and I'm diggin it so far. I plan on using a kelp FPE in the first 2 weeks of flower to see if it does help with the stretch, I think LD was the one who mentioned it. Thoughts? BeZ...V
I Lacto things. I have this bucket, I add the 'stuff' I want to juice, I add the lacto brew, I cover loosely and I leave it alone. This particular bacteria will chew though anything in my experience. I add skins (because they are always heavy in micronutrients), and anything from my 'list' that I use. You can make the Lactobacillus acidophilus or go to a healthfood store and buy some. I also noticed that any organi yogurt with many varieties of active culture will also 'eat' thru anything on my list and make a nutrient slurry for your plants. Just chop up the food stuffs and stir into yogurt, cover with water, mix and leave in bucket, loosely lidded. Here's the 'List': Alfalfa Hay: 2.45/05/2.1 Apple Fruit: 0.05/0.02/0.1 Apple Leaves: 1.0/0.15/0.4 Apple Pomace: 0.2/0.02/0.15 Apple skins(ash) : 0/3.0/11/74 Banana Residues (ash): 1.75/0.75/0.5 Barley (grain): 0/0/0.5 Barley (straw): 0/0/1.0 Basalt Rock: 0/0/1.5 Bat Guano: 5.0-8.0/4.0-5.0/1.0 Beans, garden(seed and hull): 0.25/0.08/03 Beet Wastes: 0.4/0.4/0.7-4.1 Blood meal: 15.0/0/0 Bone Black: 1.5/0/0 Bonemeal (raw): 3.3-4.1/21.0/0.2 Bonemeal (steamed): 1.6-2.5/21.0/0.2 Brewery Wastes (wet): 1.0/0.5/0.05 Buckwheat straw: 0/0/2.0 Cantaloupe Rinds (ash): 0/9.77/12.0 Castor pomace: 4.0-6.6/1.0-2.0/1.0-2.0 Cattail reeds and water lily stems: 2.0/0.8/3.4 Cattail Seed: 0.98/0.25/0.1 Cattle Manure (fresh): 0.29/0.25/0.1 Cherry Leaves: 0.6/0/0.7 Chicken Manure (fresh): 1.6/1.0-1.5/0.6-1.0 Clover: 2/0/0/0 (also contains calcium) Cocoa Shell Dust: 1.0/1.5/1.7 Coffee Grounds: 2.0/0.36/0.67 Corn (grain): 1.65/0.65/0.4 Corn (green forage): 0.4/0.13/0.33 Corn cobs: 0/0/2.0 Corn Silage: 0.42/0/0 Cornstalks: 0.75/0/0.8 Cottonseed hulls (ash): 0/8.7/23.9 Cottonseed Meal: 7.0/2.0-3.0/1.8 Cotton Wastes (factory): 1.32/0.45/0.36 Cowpea Hay: 3.0/0/2.3 Cowpeas (green forage): 0.45/0.12/0.45 Cowpeas (seed): 3.1/1.0/1.2 Crabgrass (green): 0.66/0.19/0.71 Crabs (dried, ground): 10.0/0/0 Crabs (fresh): 5.0/3.6/0.2 Cucumber Skins (ash): 0/11.28/27.2 Dried Blood: 10.0-14.0/1.0-5.0/0 Duck Manure (fresh): 1.12/1.44/0.6 Eggs: 2.25/0.4/0.15 Eggshells: 1.19/0.38/0.14 Feathers: 15.3/0/0 Felt Wastes: 14.0/0/1.0 Field Beans (seed): 4.0/1.2/1.3 Feild Beans (shells): 1.7/0.3/1.3 Fish (dried, ground): 8.0/7.0/0 Fish Scraps (fresh): 6.5/3.75/0 Gluten Meal: 6.4/0/0 Granite Dust: 0/0/3.0-5.5 Grapefruit Skins (ash): 0/3.6/30.6 Grape Leaves: 0.45/0.1/0.4 Grape Pomace: 1.0/0.07/0.3 Grass (imature): 1.0/0/1.2 Greensand: 0/1.5/7.0 Hair: 14/0/0/0 Hoof and Horn Meal: 12.5/2.0/0 Horse Manure (fresh): 0.44/0.35/0.3 Incinerator Ash: 0.24/5.15/2.33 Jellyfish (dried): 4.6/0/0 Kentucky Bluegrass (green): 0.66/0.19/0.71 Kentucky Bluegrass (hay): 1.2/0.4/2.0 Leather Dust: 11.0/0/0 Lemon Culls: 0.15/0.06/0.26 Lemon Skins (ash): 06.33/1.0 Lobster Refuse: 4.5/3.5/0 Milk: 0.5/0.3/0.18 Millet Hay: 1.2/0/3.2 Molasses Residue (From alcohol manufacture): 0.7/0/5.32 Molasses Waste (From Sugar refining): 0/0/3.0-4.0 Mud (fresh water): 1.37/0.26/0.22 Mud (harbour): 0.99/0.77/0.05 Mud (salt): 0.4.0/0 Mussels: 1.0/0.12/0.13 Nutshells: 2.5/0/0 Oak Leaves: 0.8/0.35/0.2 Oats (grain): 2.0/0.8/0.6 Oats (green fodder): 0.49/0/0 Oat straw: 0/0/1.5 Olive Pomace: 1.15/0.78/1.3 Orange Culls: 0.2/0.13/0.21 Orange Skins: 0/3.0/27.0 Oyster Shells: 0.36/0/0 Peach Leaves: 0.9/0.15/0.6 Pea forage: 1.5-2.5/0/1.4 Peanuts (seed/kernals): 3.6/0.7/0.45 Peanut Shells: 3.6/0.15/0.5 Pea Pods (ash): 0/3.0/9.0 Pea (vines): 0.25/0/0.7 Pear Leaves: 0.7/0/0.4 Pigeon manure (fresh): 4.19/2.24/1.0 Pigweed (rough): 0.6/0.1/0 Pine Needles: 0.5/0.12/0.03 Potato Skins (ash): 0/5.18/27.5 Potaote Tubers: 0.35/0.15/2.5 Potatoe Vines (dried): 0.6/0.16/1.6 Prune Refuse: 0.18/0.07/0.31 Pumpkins (fresh): 0.16/0.07/0.26 Rabbitbrush (ash): 0/0/13.04 Rabbit Manure: 2.4/1.4/0.6 Ragweed: 0.76/0.26/0 Rapeseed meal: 0/1.0=2.0/1.0=3.0 Raspberry leaves: 1.45/0/0.6 Red clover hay: 2.1/0.6/2.1 Redrop Hay: 1.2/0.35/1.0 Rock and Mussel Deposits From Ocean: 0.22/0.09/1.78 Roses (flowers): 0.3/0.1/0.4 Rye Straw: 0/0/1.0 Salt March Hay: 1.1/0.25/0.75 Sardine Scrap: 8.0/7.1/0 Seaweed (dried): 1.1-1.5/0.75/4.9 (Seaweed is loaded with micronutrients including: Boron, Iodine, Magnesium and so on.) Seaweed (fresh): 0.2-0.4/0/0 Sheep and Goat Manure (fresh): 0.55/0.6/0.3 Shoddy and Felt: 8.0/0/0 Shrimp Heads (dried): 7.8/4.2/0 Shrimp Wastes: 2.9/10.0/0 Siftings From Oyster Shell Mounds: 0.36/10.38/0.09 Silk Mill Wastes: 8.0/1.14/1.0 Silkworm Cocoons:10.0/1.82/1.08 Sludge: 2.0/1.9/0.3 Sludge (activated): 5.0/2.5-4.0/0.6 Smokehouse/Firepit Ash:0/0/4.96 Sorghum Straw:0/0/1.0 Soybean Hay: 1.5-3.0/0/1.2-2.3 Starfish: 1.8/0.2/0.25 String Beans (strings and stems, ash): 0/4.99/18.0 Sugar Wastes (raw): 2.0/8.0/0 Sweet Potatoes: 0.25/0.1/0.5 Swine Manure (fresh): 0.6/0.45/0.5 Tanbark Ash: 0/0.34/3.8 Tanbark Ash (spent): 0/1.75/2.0 Tankage: 3.0-11.0/2.0-5.0/0 Tea Grounds: 4.15/0.62/0.4 Timothy Hay: 1.2/0.55/1.4 Tobacco Leaves: 4.0/0.5/6.0 Tobacco Stems: 2.5-3.7/0.6-0.9/4.5-7.0 Tomatoe Fruit: 0.2/0.07/0.35 Tomatoe Leaves: 0.35/0.1/0.4 Tomatoe Stalks: 0.35/0.1/0.5 Tung Oil Pumace: 6.1/0/0 Vetch Hay: 2.8/0/2.3 Waste Silt: 9.5/0/0 Wheat Bran: 2.4/2.9/1.6 Wheat (grain): 2.0/0.85/0.5 Wheat Straw: 0.5/0.15/0.8 White Clover (Green): 0.5/0.2/0.3 Winter Rye Hay: 0/0/1.0 Wood Ash: 0/1.0-2.0/6.0-10.0 Wool Wastes: 3.5-6.0/2.0-4.0/1.0-3.5 Plant - Based Alfalfa meal 3-0.5-3 Ca 8 Mg0.3 S 0.1 Corn gluten 9-0-0 ca 0 Mg 0 s 0 Cottenseed meal 7-2.5-1.5-1.5 ca 0.5 mg 1 s 0.2 Soybean meal 7-1.2-1.5-0.4 Ca 0.4 mg 0.3 s 0.2 Seaweed 0.7-0.8-5 Ca 0.2 Mg 0.1 S 0 Wood Ash 0-2-6 Ca 20 Mg 1 S 0 Kelp Meal 1-0-2 potash 0-0-30 Animal Based Blood meal 15-3-0 Ca 0.3 Mg 0 S 0 some are 12-0-0 Bonemeal 3.5-22-0 Ca 22 MG 0.6 S 0.2 Feathermeal 15-0-0 Ca 0 MG 0 S 0 Fish Products 10-6-0 Ca 6 Mg 0.2 S 0.2 Bonechar 0-16-0 Alask fish fert 5-1-1 Neptunes harvest 2-3-1 Mined Minerals Granite dust 0-0-4 Ca 0 MG 0 S 0 Greensand 0-1-8 Ca 0.5 Mg 3 S 0.1 Gypsum 0-0-0.5 Ca 22 Mg 0.4 S 17 Langbeinite 0-0-22 Ca 0 Mg 18 S 27 Dolomitic Lime 0-0-0 Ca 25 MG 9 S 0.3 Calcitic Lime 0-0-0.3 Ca 32 MG 3 S 0.1 Rock Phosphate 0-25-0 Ca 0 Mg 0 S 10 Zeolite 0-0-3.2 Ca 2.5 Ca 2.5 S 0 Azomite 70 trace minerals from A-Z Recycled Materials Coffee grounds 2-.3-.3 Ca .1 Mg .1 S 0 Grass clipings 4-1-3 Ca 8 Mg 3 S .5 Leaves .8-.4-.2 Ca 0 Mg 0 S 0 Sawdust .2-0-.2 CA 0 Mg 0 S 0 Compost 1-0.5-1 Ca 0.3 MG 0.2 S 0.3 Manures Chicken 2-1.5-.5 Ca 2 Mg .2 S .1 Cow .5-.2-.5 Ca .2 Mg .1 S .1 Horse .6-.2-.5 Ca .5 Mg .1 S.1 Sheep 1-.3-1 Ca 1 Mg .1 S .05 Jamaican bat guano 1-10-0.2 Mexican Bat Guano 10-2-1 Peruvian seabird guano 10-10-2 Indonesion Bat guano .5-12-2 Fossilized sea bird guano 1-10-1 If you want to make your own lacto: I didn't write this, I just do it. --------------Lactic acid bacteria is also known to produce enzymes and natural antibiotics aiding effective digestion and has antibacterial properties, including control of salmonella and e. coli. To farmers, what are observed are the general health of the plants and animals, better nutrient assimilation, feed conversion and certain toxins eliminations. Here’s a simple method of collecting this type of microorganism. Lactic acid bacteria can be collected from the air. Pour rice wash (solution generated when you wash the rice with water) on a container like plastic pot with lid. Allow air gap at least 50-75% of the container. The key here is the air space. Cover the (not vacuum tight, allowing air still to move into the container) container with lid loosely. Put the container in a quiet area with no direct sunlight. Allow the rice was to ferment for at least 5-7 days. Lactic acid bacteria will gather in 5-7 days when temperature is 20-25 degrees C. Rice bran will be separated and float in the liquid, like a thin film, smelling sour. Strain and simply get the liquid. Put this liquid in a bigger container and pour ten parts milk. The original liquid has been infected with different type of microbes including lacto bacilli. And in order to get the pure lacto bacilli, saturation of milk will eliminate the other microorganisms and the pure lacto bacilli will be left. You may use skim or powdered milk, although fresh milk is best. In 5-7 days, carbohydrate, protein and fat will float leaving yellow liquid (serum), which contain the lactic acid bacteria. You can dispose the coagulated float leaving yellow liquid (serum), which contain the lactic acid bacteria. You can dispose the coagulated carbohydrate, protein and fat, add them to your compost pile or feed them to your animals. The pure lactic acid bacteria serum can be stored in the refrigerator or simply add equal amount of crude sugar (dilute with 1/3 water) or molasses. Do not use refined sugar as they are chemically bleached and may affect the lactic acid bacteria. The sugar or molasses will keep the lactic acid bacteria alive at room temperature. One to one ratio is suggested although sugar, regardless of quantity is meant simply, serving as food for the bacteria to keep them alive. Now, these lactic acid bacteria serum with sugar or molasses will be your pure culture. To use, you can dilute this pure culture with 20 parts water. Make sure water is not chemically treated with, like chlorine. Remember, we are dealing with live microorganisms and chlorine can kill them. This diluted form 1:20 ratio will be your basic lactic acid bacteria concoction. Two to four tablespoons added to water of one gallon can be used as your basic spray and can be added to water and feeds of animals. For bigger animals, the 2-4 tablespoons of this diluted lactic acid bacteria serum should be used without diluting it further with water. Lactic acid bacteria serum can be applied to plant leaves to fortify phyllosphere microbes, to soil and compost. Of course, it will help improve digestion and nutrient assimilation for animals and other applications. ---------------------- I don't dilute anything, I just chuck food into it as soon as I make it, and let it digest it for my plants. In my lacto bucket. Yogurt is good too.
Interesting, informative, information. Can't wait to have my garden of beneficials for my main garden Great thread everybody
My likey thing ain't working WD or I'd rep ya. Back on thread, if that is alright lol, last veg I mixed up some dry comfrey, nettles, spirulina, and yarrow in a zip lock box. And for the first fert kick on my current cuttings, I gave them 2 tbs of this mix in a gallon of water, just put it in shook it up and poured it on. Their soil is some peat, ewc, neem cake and espoma plant tone that i mixed up last spring, and has been sitting in a outdoor tote all summer. They are in 2 gallon smarties, and untill now have only been fed water. This was last night, today I've been away all day ( dr appointments) I come back and look at the clones and they have grown into the lights in one day. A good solid two or maybe more inches. This shit is something else.....MIW
There still chugging along. I have not been taking pics due to the yellow flowering light. But there around 6 weeks in now. The white siberians have saffron colored hairs now, the bubba Kush has red hairs and is now getting some color on the sugar leaves, and the jack herer buds still look fresh, no darkening. I'm now getting some fading on the big old fan leaves on all the plants. Last week they got a kelp,neem cake tea, but it's been mostly water with the botanicals early. The new growth I was talking about is on their babies in veg. Hopefully I can keep them small while the moms mature. I have limited room for them while the flower box is occupied, so that much growth, is a little too much in my case.....MIW
I need to get off my ass and order some of these items. Obviously, eventually I'd like to be able to harvest my own out of the list, but it aint happening now, 'specially with winter here. Between you and LD I hear nothing but gigantic praise for the botanicals, and boy, thats good enuff for me. jerry.
Jerry I pissed away all summer looking for comfrey and nettles with very little success. I think ultimately we need to grow these ourselves. So while i use up store bought herbs, come spring i'll start planting my own "nutes". But just so everyone knows the biggest puzzle piece in organic growing is compost. But good compost and select botanicals kick some serious booty.......MIW
MIW...... I read that one word and it reminded me of back in the day [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCCjv2OiTxE]Mellow Yellow by Donovan - YouTube[/ame]
HA!!! MIW - you beat me to it - I was gonna say that...*lol* Sorry Chunk...hahaha I remember when I was a little kid and Donovan came to our school...jeez, must have been in the early 70's. jerry.
Try figuring out the lyrics on this Donovan hit: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4aNaqUm26hY&feature=related]Donovan - There Is A Mountain (Original Stereo) - YouTube[/ame]
MIW - So - have you found anywhere yet where we can buy seeds or cuts of yarrow,nettle, etc? It seems that the comfrey is easy - I have a bunch of comfrey scattered around the yard now, so I bet I do good with that next summer. I'd like to get all of these accumulator plants going well on thier own, so that I have a massive abundance. One more thing, kind of off subject, sorry. I have been using my own homemade vermicompost as topdressing, and am REALLY liking it! It still has unfinished compost in it, but thats not bothering me. I have a solid 2" over all in my big pots. I've been seeing white fuzz growing over all - covering it right over. Good, right? Fungal growth? I also want to make a good fungal dominant tea. I want to use the same vermicompost, as it seems high in fungal growth, but was also thinking I remebered that I can take a pan of this vermicompost and mix it w/ organic oats?, moisten it, and let it suit until its covered with fuzz. Am I on the right track? I apologize for getting off-topic. jerry. btw, I just went out and bought a little sack of "organic rolled oats" at the health food store. If I'm right, can I use it as is, or should I whip them thru the blender, maybe first?
Jerry Horizon Herbs offers this seed collection which includes the following: Astragalus, Holy Basil (Kapoor Tulsi), Gobo Burdock, Mixed Calendula, German Chamomile, Echinacea purpurea, Elecampane, Evening Primrose, Brown Flax, Lemon Balm, Marshmallow, Official Motherwort, Stinging Nettles, Cayenne Pepper, Garden Sage, Official Valerian, Wood Betony and Yarrow. The usual price is $30.00 but I noticed when I looked this up to get the complete list of plants that they have a special running - all 18 seed packs for $23.95 ($1.34 per pack) These are produced on their certified Biodynamic Farm in Southern Oregon. Their seeds are gold - over 90% germination rates. I know that you already have Comfrey but for others, Horizon Herbs sells 6 root cuttings for $10.00 which you can cut in half so that would give you 12 starts (Duh!) So for $35.00 an organic gardener would have a huge range of plants some of which have value as a botanical agent. Many of the plants included in this collection are primarily used for human and animal health. Still - at the prices and quality that these folks offer it's pretty hard to pass it up. Anyway there's some info to consider. LD
Thanks LD, I can't add more on where to buy just yet. That white fuzz is of course fungi, and harmless, but shows your getting a fungal dominated soil, and that's a good thing. Your compost (s) are doing what good compost(s) do so well. Your grow is getting dialed in my friend, good stuff.......MIW
LD - great! Thanks much for that info - its EXACTLY what I needed. MIW, what are your thoughts on the whole "oats mixed with compost/vermicompost" to make a fungal tea - or am I already there as the vermicompost is getting fuzzy on its own, making it redundant to mix the oats? Maybe I'll try it anyhow - just to keep things exciting and interesting...*grin* I wouldnt mind hearing your (and others) thoughts anyhow.... jerry.