Botanicals

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by MI Wolverine, Nov 30, 2011.

  1. #1041 GiMiK, Nov 28, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 28, 2013
    $28.94 for the lavender
    $30.69 for the lemon balm
    $12.70 for shipping
    $72.33 total
     
    In comparison, Rosemary (camphor type) oil is only $13.06 for 4 oz, out of Spain. Extremely effective and cheap.
     
    at 120 mL per vial (roughly) each one should carry me through a minimum of 40 weeks (3 mL per application (3 gallons) in total for my garden atm) 
     
    So alternating the oils, one variety a week (rosemary, lavender, lemon balm) will allow for up to 120 weeks of consistent application, likely somewhere closer to 100 if an infestation somehow takes hold. Never had an issue with that yet though, and I took in over a dozen dirty cuts from some locals during the summer.
     
    The point that makes this route viable is the ability to use in conjunction with neem, or rather in alternation. For example, I'll only use the oils in my veg room once every 2-3 weeks unless I spot a problem; neem soaks and neem oil are my go to for the regular routine. I use these oils as a safety valve of sorts for my flower room...perfect tool for the job if you can't easily source fresh material imo.
     
    TBH you only need spike lavender and/or rosemary, if you're going the oil route jerry.
     
    I'm testing something with the lemon balm oil, more or less. I have a good bit of faith in it, hence the purchase but I dk if that should transfer to others yet. Uncharted waters, AFAIK.

     
  2. is there any benefits to leavin say.. comfrey in a closed bucket compared to botanical presses that squeeze out the juices?
     
  3. Azamax drenches always have nipped fungus gnat problems in the bud forme. But always down to try new things that are more cost effective. Lavender sounds interesting and I love growingit.
     
  4. #1044 Gandalf_the_Green, Feb 28, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 28, 2014
     
    Either lavender will work, but spike lavender (or medicinal lavender... lavandula latifolia) has almost double the linalool of culinary lavender (lavandula augustifolia), and contains high levels of camphor (13%), which culinary lavender lacks (practically.... <1%).  Both linalool and camphor are effective pesticides and fungicides.
     
  5. #1045 InstaBlaze, Jun 19, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 19, 2014
    Bump.

    I have some alfalfa and kelp that I'm going to put in a five gallon bucket later today. Going off a recipe at buildasoil.com I'm gonna try putting 1 cup of alfalfa and 1/2 of kelp and let it sit for 2-3 days. I also have some neem oil and some 200x aloe powder that I'm considering putting in as well.

    Are you guys still using these teas? Its unfortunate that this thread never got stickied.

    Sent from my MB886 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     
  6. #1046 Agent57, Jun 19, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 19, 2014
    The recipe works pretty good.  Don't use it on young plants, it can and will burn them unless you dilute the tea.  
     
  7.  
    I've always read that recipe from LD/CC to use 1/4 cup kelp and 1/2 cup alfalfa to five gallons of water.  And I think the soak was only for 24 hours.
     
    As 7557rb has suggested, I would dilute the tea if you mix it at the ratios/brew time you listed.
     
  8. Don't add neem oil to the tea.... that'll just cause issues.... it needs to be emulsified with liquid silica and is for foliar application only.....
     
  9. I'll keep that in mind, thank you!

    this is the page I got the recipe from: http://buildasoil.com/collections/all-visible-products/products/alfalfa-meal

    I guess I can brew a first batch and dilute it, if I get good results I can try it a little stronger the second time? Thanks for your input.

    OK thank you for the heads up. If it makes a difference I had planned on mixing it in after the tea had brewed and spraying it on the plants. ( ornamental plants/flowers and grass) but if you think it would cause issues I can always use it separately. Do you have any thoughts on the aloe powder?

    And thanks again for all of yalls input, I really appreciate it.

    Sent from my MB886 using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     
  10. #1050 waktoo, Jun 19, 2014
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2014
     
    Do you need to alternate oils, or not?
     
    What happened with your lemon balm test?
     
    I'm going to plant a greenhouse on Friday, all seed, so I have some time.  I'm positive that I'm going to have major bug issues if all of the carcasses I found when cleaning it out are any indication of what's to come...
     
    In reference to an earlier post, I've read about chamomile enhancing terpenes/oils as well.  In one of the companion planting threads, I believe.  I've read nothing scientific that substantiates these claims.  But as I'm planting feminized seeds that I've grown indoor before, I'll throw down some chamomile and we'll and see what happens...
     
  11. #1051 Agent57, Jun 19, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 19, 2014
    I've read about chamomile enhancing terpenes/oils as well.  In one of the companion planting threads, I believe.  I've read nothing scientific that substantiates these claims.  But as I'm planting feminized seeds that I've grown indoor before, I'll throw down some chamomile and we'll and see what happens...
     
    Good luck with the companion planting WAK.  If your chamomile goes all the way to flower you can harvest the flowers for tea.  Very relaxing.
     
     
     
    Properly corrected, I was a little wakked!! :confused_2:       LOL
     
  12.  
    I am wak'...  :smoke:
     
  13.  
    That's a better move.... if you emulsify it with liquid silica first, it could be mixed with the tea fine.... as long as you aren't using the tea for a soil-drench.....  or maybe save some of the tea with no neem oil in it, and use that for your soil drench.....
     
    Aloe is always good lol.... great for foliars (due to high saponins it is a great surfactant, so it maximizes leaf coverage and thus absorption of your foliar)
     
  14.  
    I TP'ed some sprouts into 3 gallon smart pots about a week ago, and planted a ton of clover and chamomile as a living mulch, because I read exactly what you're talking about lol..... You want Roman chamomile (much shorter than German, which is more common and grows up to 2.5 feet tall)
     
  15. I'm sorry, Wak......    Crap, I should just go to bed, graveyard shift is kickin my ass.
     
  16. Oh, InstaBlaze..... any time you use neem oil, you want to spray right before lights off.... the high intensity light will degrade the active compounds in neem oil, making it ineffective quickly..... and you risk getting oil burns on your plants.... Just a thought....
     
  17. Roger that.

    Do any of you have experience using this type of stuff on the grass in your yard? Or do you just use it on other plants? What constitutes a foliar spray as opposed to a regular watering when it comes to grass?

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  18.  
    I realize that the Roman is preferred for indoor grows because of its short growth stature.
     
    I'm doing this in a greenhouse, so the height of the German really isn't as issue.  And that's what I can find locally without having to order online.  In fact I think I already have some.  Do you think that there's any reason why the German wouldn't have the same effect on oil/terpene production that the Roman does?
     
  19.  
    No worries, bro.  A good rest to you when it finally comes... -_-
     
  20.  
    No reason to believe that.... I didn't realize your comment about greenhouses and your comment about using chamomile as a companion were connected lol  The height is my only concern with German chamomile.....
     

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