Best LED light company?

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by mrvegas, Jan 12, 2015.

  1. You have the link for the brand you said ?
     
  2. #464 Diatt, May 6, 2016
    Last edited: May 6, 2016
    I don't like how I just watched a video of theirs all about silver packages that just say Cree on them...I also don't like how there is like no pricing info. I like to know their wanted value before I ever really do more researche.

    I also don't want or say they are the best but if any ones hasn't look check out a amare lights. I just bought a 450 I'll be running it against a ss880 more or less. AMARE Technologies_High Intensity LED with Enhanced White-Light. They have an out dated site -.- and a few other products not shown not their yet. Any one interested should email them, they still have 4/20 sale for a few days.I have not grown with this light yet, but I have seen good things with it so far so I am very interested. I'll be going into flower very soon with this light.
     
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  3. AMARE Technologies led is good , but cann't afford . one grower bought from ecosunlite , share his growing . Just follow his growing .....
    New LED from ecosunlite
     
  4. Amare Technologies rocks!
     
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  5. Hi guys, I just started setting up for my first grow, and I wanted to know if you guys could give me some pointers on what would be the best bang for buck LED grow light available. Cheers


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. Avoid PLATINUM LED as much as possible internal led adaptors are made in china and have burnt two times already 8 months apart on my P600 and despite numerous emails and calls (answer machine) still no response
     
  7. What about a CREE COB light from Ali Ba Ba with great reviews? People order all their DIY parts off Ali ba Ba, don't understnd why getting a built light is bad?
     
  8. Getting a built light isn't so much "bad". The issue seems that regardless of the many over the counter LED conmpany's making claims that their LED is better than the rest or showing some chart or graph on how much light their units are putting out in the end they almost all seem to be lies. What is Platinum's claim to fame...."made in the USA". But MarsHydro has a great youtube video showing that Platinum's are made in China!

    If you want an LED fixture that you can trust the true output and can find and replace spare parts easily then by all means with very little work build a DIY Cree COB fixture, either a cxb3070 or cxb3590. If you are scared of piecing together the parts Timber Grow Lights has a number of "kits" that a pretty close to plug and play.
     
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  9. Well after reading thru this I am going to build my next one myself.
    However 4 months ago I bought my first light. A MarsHydro Cree 128 led for my 2'X2.5'X7' tent.
    It seems to be doing well. If my first plants from non fem seeds hadn't been dudes I'd be close to the harvest. My single Blue Dream plant likes it just fine and is growing well.
    Seems like a couple of the paid shills are gone. Soon to be replaced I'm sure.
    If I were just buying again I'd probably go Amare but for the money I think I can build my own better.
    This means my Mars light will probably not give me reason to replace it. My luck seems to go that way. Interesting reading.
     
  10. Do they have any kind of print to build a frame sturdy enough to mount the lights, power supply and controls and hang it? The fans are in each led yes?
     
  11. Depends on your set up. If you are using just a couple cxb3590's on a 1 piece heat sink then you just need 1 fan. I started my DIY fixture with a driver out of a MarsHydro 300w fixture then upgraded. A Meanwell HLG-185H-1400B would let you build a fixture using between 2 to 4 cxb3590 COBs. I started with just 2 COB's and will add a second heat sink with 2 more COB's in the next couple of weeks or so. There is what they call passive cooled pin heat sinks out now that do not require a cooling fan. That is the type Timber uses. With them you just screw together a simple frame made from extruded aluminum "L" stock from the hardware store.
     
  12. P300.. 2x2 SCROG' IMG_20160816_223626300.jpg 18 days since flip
     
  13. My new kit from Timber. I made the frame and still need to make a mount for the power switch and potentiometer. Par readings rock. Make sure you have good ventilation. I was in kind of a hurry to get it up and going so forgive me for not having it all neatened up yet.


    [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
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  14. .i can tell you PlatinumLED may not be the best. But in my 2x2 Scrog. It's killing.

    2 months n some weeks.
    IMG_20160824_242346961.jpg IMG_20160823_215718687_HDR.jpg veg
    received_10208999769484861.jpeg
     

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  15. I'd certainly take a spydr1200 :p or ideally a p9xml new squarer shaped Platinums. Come w 3 switches. 1 is all white Cree diodes. Apparently CLWs new units are dope. But I saw a you tube but if guys at black dog pulling 9. Something ounces off a plant in a small space 1 unit..
     
  16. Being in a similar situation Ive spent the last month really studying the premade lights available (platinum, mars, etc), and I had initially thought I would be going with a P300. The more research I did, I found I didnt really like their business tactics, a lot of premade light companies are pretty shady in my opinion. Thats when I went 180 and started going down the DIY route and dove down the rabbit hole. Started downloading product specification brochures and everything. I know people get great results from just about every premade out there, but its a large investment and I want to make sure I have the very best equipment. I started looking into companies like Phillips, and household brands looking into their horticulture divisions. Their products are nearly impossible to easily source though.

    The barebones kits (like Timber) are overpriced as far as Im concerned, and when I started doing my design I wasnt even aware the barebones kits were available. The design I came up with uses two HLG-185h-c1400b, six 3500k CXA3070 and two 5000k CXA3070. One driver will power two 3500k and two 5000k for veg, and the second will power the other four 3500k and be on a switch. I have a separate box that is going to be a starter box. I had originally designed it to use CPU fans, but I didnt like the idea of needing to power 8 CPU fans, and the cost of all the heatsinks and headache of securing each heatsink to a structure wasnt worth it to me. I went with two 24" heatsinks, and one 16" heatsink. The heatsinks are each cooled by a 120mm computer fan, and I made a cover for the heatsink to create more airflow along the entire length of the heatsink. I will probably do a side-by-side comparison later of the ambient temperature difference with and without the cover. The support structure is comprised of aluminum flat bar stock. To do a DIY setup like mine, but with CXA3590 would be about $575 in the same parts as included with the Timber kit would be $800 ($399x2).

    Cree CXA 3590 $43x8 = $344
    HLG 185h-c1400 $54x2 = $108
    Heatsink 24" $42x2 = $84
    Heatsink 16" $28x1 = $28
    120mm fans $4x3 = $12
    Total $575

    For savings of $225, Ill take the time to make my own, especially when the kit you still have to make your support structure. I may post how exactly to build mine with pictures in another thread later.
     

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