Beginnings of my very own pre grow journal

Discussion in 'Indoor Grow Journals' started by NWestblessed, Apr 25, 2012.

  1. Okay so its divided into 7 sections

    Materials : Mylar , 3 1000 watt lights- preferably 2 metal halides and 1 hps, exhaust fan, timers, good water, cheap nutes from home depot or lowe's, the only replaceable materials that generally need to bought at the grow store is lights, bulbs and Mylar, the rest should be bought on the absolute cheap, should get back 5 to 1, soiless poting mix can be bought as cheap as $47 a yard questions : what other materials will be necessary?

    Air temp, humidity and ventilation/ should place the regular inside mixing fans at the height of the grow lights, the key to maintaing the right temp is all about exhaust and timing the lights to work during the coolest time of the day, remember though the laws of displacement - doesn't matter how big your fan is if you don't provide a way to replace the expelled air Q's : how do I replace the expelled air with a same sized exhaust fan blowing the air inward? I'm thinking this section especially is going to need a bunch of additional expertise

    Lighting/ it's best to use a warm or redder light spectrum for everything and when the plants start to flower replace the middle light with a 1000 watt hps, tack the Mylar leaving as much looseness as possible so that as the fans blow they move the mylar creating a twinkling effect thus penetrating deeper into the canopy of your grow where the leaves block all available light if the light doesn't move q's : so theoretically I should just put a tack in each corner that would be the loosest right? I know seems like a dumb question but every little aspect counts to me.

    Feeding and watering/ sativas tend to use very little nutes compared to indicas, should use two separate buckets, for watering - 1 with fresh water and 1 with 1/3 suggested dosage of nutes, when the leaves, when the leaves show that it is time to water you should usually feed 3 to 4 waterings in a row, signs of needing to water-feed are curling or burnt premature yellowing of bottom leaf's tips, positive results should show after the 2nd watering dose which is a perfect lime green at the tops at the new growth on the leaf's tips is dark green then that tells you that the plant is a bit dry, of the new growth on the leaf tips is burning then just straight water, some strains have a little leaf burn normally when fed perfectly, better to go by this than a standard suggested feedIng schedule and basically know how much and when to stop, getting to know how much a pot (with water,soil and plant in it) should weigh when you pick it up tells you if your good on water at that time, if it feels to heavy let it go 2 more days and then check it again it should be ready for watering, immediately after watering pick the pot up again to check weight, start bloom fertilizer when you see the buds just start to bloom and follow the same pattern, be careful at this point because the plant now requires much less watering, for flushing, just wait until you see the hairs turn about 50% red and just water with fresh water for 2 weeks with 3 times the water you would use for fertilizing Q's : so since I have no relative weight to go by how much should a properly watered pot weigh? So flushing is the last step before harvest? I've also heard that flushing should be done for 7 to 10 days how long do you reccomend? How much less do sativas need then indicas? How much less watering do the plants need after bloom?

    Growing medium/ be aware that some soil comes real moist straight out of the bag, if the bag is real heavy then don't water for up to a week after transplant. Q's I have a rough idea what transplanting is (taking a Plant out of one soil and replanting it in another) but when, why and how should this be done?

    Drying and curing/ the longer and slower you dry your buds the danker your bud will be, drying in a dry, cool, dark area is best but can take quite a while, if the strain produces light, fluffy buds, dry the plant hanging upside down as a whole, if the strain produces large, dense buds it will take longer to dry so if it produces buds that are at least 4 to 5 inches thick take those buds and hang them uPside down in pieces, running a dehumidifier, aiming out the door of your drying area for the first couPle days of drying then occasionally for a few minuets thereafter maintains reasonable humidity since mold becomes a concern with large buds during a prolonged cure because moisture in the center takes much longer to evaporate, when the stems of the buds snap rather than bend they pass the readiness test. Q's: how long should the buds be cured in a jar for and is there any special way to do that for example I've heard of burping the jars - opening the jars for a few minuets then closing em back up during a prolonged cure.

    Miscellaneous / dhs/ommp says designated growers should not let police into a growing location without a warrant and should get their attorney on the phone immediately, as a patient I can legally possess one and a half pounds, as a grower I can grow six adult plants, and keep 18 small plants measurable within a cubic foot, I can provide for a maximimum of four patients and if so 6 more adult plants and 18 babies for each additional patient thus absolute maximimum legal dried bud capacity is six pounds, 24 adult adult plants, and 72 babies. Q's : so I like to be as well informed of bud laws as possible if there's any important laws I should know about I would like to know I don't know how aware of ommp you are but yeah always gotta be informed on that stuff. Also what is a good grow room dimension?Ive heard that those sativas that reach the ceiling if grown well like 9.5 foot ceilings. And last but not least what strains do you reccomend for a beginner. I've heard real good things about northern lights, widow widow, afghanis and island sweet skunk (which was a strange reccomendation considering that it's 100% sativa) and indicas in general. Im looking for the strongest, hardiest, most disease and mold resistant and best producing strains

    There you go there's the beginnings. If you have any revisions or additionals that would be so much appreciatted
     
  2. Also if experienced growers on here reccomend "pinching" the plant and can give me a detailed explanation on how to do that it would be sweet
     

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