bee pollen as soil additive

Discussion in 'Growing Marijuana Indoors' started by Smiley Coyote, Jun 30, 2010.

  1. #1 Smiley Coyote, Jun 30, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 30, 2010
    The following chart may only apply to pollen gathered by bees from certain flowers but it is a good list of stuff you might want for your plants. My concern is that when something says it has ten percent of the daily recommended allowance, sometimes that is far too much for a plant. For instance, the potassium in an Emergen-C pack is something like twenty percent of the daily recommended intake for a human but is far more that what most plants can take in a day.

    Does anyone here have any experience with bee pollen?

    Nutrition Value Protein 2% Carbohydrate 1% Dietary fiber 2 % Vitamin C 4 % Iron 2 % Zinc 2 % Copper 4 % Magnesium 1 %
     
  2. The statistics shown are for one teaspoon of bee pollen.
     
  3. I take local bee pollen daily. It's fantastic stuff and nutritionally, it actually contains many more ingredients than you listed. The list is quite impressive and will vary from region to region depending on the variety of flowers the bees are visiting.

    Here's a more complete list.

    Vitamins:

    Provitamin A (carotenoids) 5-9 mg %
    Vitamin B1 (thiamine) 9.2 micrograms %
    Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
    Vitamin B3 (Niacin)
    Vitamin B5 (panothenic acid)
    Vitamin B6 (pyridoxine) 5 micrograms %
    Vitamin B12 (cyamoco balamin)
    Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
    Vitamin D - Vitamin E
    Vitamin H (biotin)
    Vitamin K. Choline. Inositol
    Folic Acid, 5 micrograms %
    Pantothenic acid 20-50 micrograms/gram
    Rutin. 16 milligrams %
    Rutin in beehive pollen 13%
    Vitamin PP (nicotinicamide)

    Minerals:

    Calcium. 1 - 15% of ash
    Phosphorus 1-20% of ash
    Iron, 1-12% of ash
    0.01-1.3% of fresh pollen
    0.6-7.1 mg % of air dried
    Copper 05-08% of ash
    1.1-2.1 mg % of fresh
    Potassium, 20-45% of ash
    Magnesium, 1-12% of ash
    Manganese, 1.4% of ash, 0.75 mg %
    Silica, 2-10% of ash
    Sulphur, 1% of ash
    Sodium - Titanium-Zinc
    Iodine - Chlorine
    Boron-Molydbenum

    Fatty Acids (Conifer Pollen)
    Total list identified are:


    Caproic (C-6) - Caprylic (C-8)
    Capric (C-10) - Lauric (C-12)
    Myristic (C-14) - Palmitic (C-16)
    Palmitoleic (C-15) one double bond
    Uncowa - Stearic (C-18)
    Oleic (C-18) one double bond
    Linoleic (C-18) two double bonds
    Arachidic (C-20) - Stearic (C-22)
    Limolenic (C-18 three double bonds)
    Eicosanoic (C-20 one double bond)
    Brucic (C-22 one double bond)
    Pseudotduga dry pollen contains
    0.76-0.89 % fatty acid. Major are:
    Oleic, Palmitic, Linoleic,
    Pinus dry pollen contains:
    125-1.33% fatty acid based on
    dry weight of pollen, major are:
    Linolenic, Oleic - Stearic.

    Enzymes & Co-enzymes:

    Disstase
    Phosphatase
    Amylase
    Cataiase
    Saccharase
    Diaphorase
    Pectase
    Cozymase
    Cytochrome systems
    Lactic dehydrogenase
    Succinic dehydrogenase

    Note: The cozymase in mixed fresh pollen runs about 0.5-1 .0 milligram per gram. comparable to the amounts in yeast. (Bee pollen contains all known enzymes & co-enzymes and probably all that will be known in the future.)

    Proteins, Globulins, Peptones, and Amino Acids:

    7-35%. average 20%: 40-50%
    may be free amino acids: 10-13% consists
    of amino acids in dry pollen.
    35 grams of pollen per day can satisfy the
    protein requirements of man. 25 grams of
    pollen per day can sustain man because it
    contains 6.35 grams as indicated by Rose.
    Plus other amino acids.

    Carbohydrates:

    Gums - Pentosans - Cellulose Sporonine
    (7-57% of pollen of various species:
    29% in bee collected.)
    Starch (0-22% of pollen)
    Total sugars (30-40%)
    Sucrose or cane sugar
    Levulose or fruit sugar / fructose
    Glucose or grape sugar
    Reducing sugars (0.1-19%)
    Bee-collected: Non-reducing sugar 2.71%.
    Reducing: 18.82-41.21% Mean. 25.71%

    Pollen contains the same number of amino acids, but vary greatly in quantity of each:
    Tryptophan 1.6% - Leucine 5.6% Lysine 5.7% - Isoleucine 4.7% Methionine 1.7% - Cystine 0.6% Thresonine 4.6% - Arginine 4.7% Phenylalanine 3.5% - Histidine 1.5% Valine 6.0% - Glutamic acid 2.1% Tyrosine - Glycine - Serine - Proline - Alanine - Aspartic acid Hydroxyproline - Butyric Acid.



    ___________


    As far as adding it to the soil... I think it's an intriguing idea, and will try to dig up any info I can. Please share if you find anything else, and thanks for posting your idea.
     
  4. dang i didnt know it had all that stuff, i should definterly try that, how exactly do you get bee pollen though?
     
  5. There are a handful of Health / Supplement stores in my area that carry it. It should always be refrigerated, so make sure you check the fridge.
     
  6. I am considering my next watering be blackstrap and bee pollen with a touch of indonesian guano..
     
  7. That was my first grow and now I am here onto my second grow and am doing it again. Unfortunately, last time I ended up with one plant and it yielded about two ounces of decent bud under 320W of CFL.

    Now, I have tents. The 3x3 tents have 400W of HPS going in them right now and the 4x4 ones have 600W. There are two of the latter and one of the former.

    In the 3x3 (Silver Edition) I have two Afghani #1's from Sensi Seeds. In one of the 4x4's, there are two White Widow's I got as clones and one Hindu Kush, also obtained in clone form. Finally, in the last 4x4, I have one rather tall pheno from the Afghani #1 seeds referred to and a White Widow plus one Sour Diesel.

    The 3x3 is the first in a line of tents whose lights are connected by a compact ducting arrangement that necessitates I harvest all at once due to the difficulty in filtering light out of neighboring tents.

    All of my plants are two weeks and a day into flower and all are showing small buds, some seem to be moving considerably slower than they could but all the plants look healthy and I am happy for that.

    I use Foxfarm's Happy Frog three to one with earthworm castings and that I then dilute with perlite. I use Superthrive occasionally but not as a matter of course. Often, I keep it to transplant time only or, sometimes, with young seedlings. Additionally, every feeding I give my plants includes General Hydroponics' Floralicious Plus Concentrated Organic Enhancer which has most of what Superthrive has minus the hormones. It includes carbs as well and it looks and smells, as usual, to be derived from molasses.

    For my nute program, I have been using the International House of Guano, a program from Sunleaves that goes from Mexican (high in N) bat guano to Peruvian seabird guano (equal N and P) to Jamaican bat guano (higher in P but lower in N) to Indonesian bat guano (higher still in P and very low in N). The Afghans are the only ones raised from seed and also the only ones that spent their vegging weeks under metal halide.

    The pics are from four days ago, when they were eleven days into flowering. I have since done a great deal of trimming of the lower growth to direct energy to the more substantial branches.

    *
     

    Attached Files:

  8. beautiful set up and plants dude looks like your going to get a nice yield
     
  9. Really? Do you think I am on target for 400g per square meter? The 4x4's have a little under 40W per square foot while the 3x3's are getting about 45.
     
  10. for sure, the great thing about an hps is that the 400w and 600w is evenly distributed so each plant will be getting maximum watts, .5 gram per watt is usually a safe estimate on yield, and depending on how well of a grower it can very will get to .75-1 gram per watt. id say your on the right track to getting a lot of bud, youve got a great nute schedule also
     
  11. At any rate, I revamped this thread specifically for the use of bee pollen as cited above. I don't exactly have a control group to get perfectly scientific about it but since we know that all this good stuff is already in bee pollen the real question becomes what is too little, what is too much, and what is just right.

    Since I don't see any mention of using bee pollen in cannabis cultivation anywhere else, I will post my results. I intend to use a little soon (gonna try a teaspoon in five gallons at two and a half weeks into flower) and a little as part of my last feeding, as I get ready to flush. For the Afghani #1's that only puts the feedings about three weeks apart while with the Sour Diesel, that puts bee pollen use about seven weeks apart.

    That ought to give enough variation in its application to get some idea of its usefulness.

    I will be mixing them with my guano teas.
     
  12. sounds great, i cant wait to see some results im sure they will both be really good, cannabis loves natural organic nutrients
     
  13. #14 Smiley Coyote, Mar 27, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 27, 2011
    Well,this grow will not experience MUCH bee pollen but the first dose does not seem to have bothered anything. During my first grow, I DID have some problems and I don't know if I used too much or not but I plan to, with each successive grow, use more until I find out what too much really is.

    Eventually, then, I will have something definitive to share. I can tell you right now that dressing the top of the soil with a teaspoon didn't HURT any of my plants. I might give them two more, one in a couple of weeks and one at the end of my use of nutes, just prior to flush. So far, White Widows, Afghan #1's, Master Kush, and Hindu Kush are all fine with this small dose.

    If I find out that these plants can take a whole lot more, I will switch to mixing it in with my guano teas.
     
  14. Very interesting thread. I'm in it for the long haul, subbed! +rep :smoke:
     
  15. Just an update - will administer another teaspoon on top of my soil, per plant. This in another two weeks. That should be three weeks after the first dose. I figure until I find that issues are developing that I will do this every 3 weeks until flush. It takes a little while for it to totally spread out through the soil, perhaps two to four waterings.

    This could be a drop in the bucket of what it can use but I am most interested in what it gives to the microbes in my organic soil who, in turn, have been getting some nice aminos and carbs for some time (Floralicious Plus). The actual nutes in this exist in relatively small amounts but there are so many different benefits that perhaps this food goes straight to work on what might be missing in a given plant. At least I know now that I am getting steady and small amounts of calcium and magnesium.

    Here are a couple of pics from three days ago.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. Everything seems to be coming along wonderfully. The temps are a little lower than I would like (mainly at night) but I ought to get a little purple out of those Afghans and the White Widows are doing fantastic! I would like to get my humidity down a bit and am working on it. It hovers at around sixty percent - sometimes higher!

    Anyway, the only drawback so far I see regarding my use of bee pollen as a soil additive is that where it sits atop the soil in any small clumps, it gathers mold. Of course, if my RH was as low as it should be then that might not be the case.

    I think I will start mixing it into my guano teas. Here is an update, these pics being taken on day 38 of 12/12.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Anyone care to guess a yield? The first shot is of the Afghan that you can see at the back of the tent. Its two main stalks have grown so tall they are going to finish above the lights. I tied them back because they get kind of hot since I have to schedule them to go off for a few minutes every now and then so the heat will actually get up around 75 during the day.

    The second two shots are of the White Widow which you can see again in the last shot - lower left. It's actually on a milk crate. On the lower right is a much smaller Hindu Kush but all are on the same day of 12/12.
     
  18. Well, i have been giving the plants a teaspoon or so on top of the soil every couple of weeks and so far so good but I have inadvertently subjected many of my plants to heat stress and I am afraid this will taint the experiment

    I will keep readers updated anyway as I intend to experiment with bee pollen for the foreseeable future.
     

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