Bato of the Systems

I know I can do much better.

 

OMG! You grew a Highlander Mushroom !!! It's wearing a kilt
You never cease to amaze me.

 

Charlottes Dream
I have had some difficulty in continuing this grow. I've been adding pH up non-stop to counteract the acidity (~pH 4.5 in a day if I'm not careful) but today the pH was 6.1. Maybe it broke the fever? Too little too late. My wife helps me contain my impulsive nature and has asked me to be patient with this plant... or id'a killed it long ago.



idk whateva lol pH 6.10 EC ~1350 not changing much. She is drinking a lil. I'm hope we'll get a lil to make some MCT-CBD extracts for massages.

Trojans Auto


OK, to correct the high nitrogen, I decided to use Ca-Spike, which is EDTA chelated calcium and magnesium (at a 2:1 ratio). This resulted in burns all over the fan leaves. I immediately replaced the reservoir with (per 4L) 4 mL calimagic + 3 mL Micro + 12 mL Bloom. Doing this stopped the burning. It should also lower the nitrogen. This is a modified Lucas formula using 4:1 bloom:micro instead of the regular 2:1. *rule # 4 calimagic is not like calmag. *rule #5 ca-spike is bad (and I threw the rest of it in the trash).

Closer look at the ca-spike burns caused by adding the recommended g/L for 100 ppm calcium and 50 ppm magnesium as advised by the manufacturer. I am not sure if the large amount of EDTA or the bad Ca:Mg ratio is to blame for this. No matter as I'm never using it again.

Otherwise this plant is good. I know she is ugly, but I checked the root system on this plant and it's immaculate. I really think this plant would do better using Maxibloom. (next try I suppose).

White Fire OG



The yellowing has subsided after increasing the amount of Plant Prod Bloom and using 1mL/L calimagic. Currently at about 1400 uS, but EC and solution volume dropping quickly each day. pH is stable at ~5.9. I will probably increase lighting and nute levels in the next day or so.

I feel like

 

bro she had root rot and I tried to save her. I don't think she would have survived if I hadn't done that, but I did try some hard water once and it didn't matter. Sometimes I do use hard water to pH up. I agree with you about the variables, but I did have to change the source of calcium because the calnesium product keeps going bad. Garbage. I wouldn't doubt that it was the source of contamination in the first place. And now I tried the Ca-spike and it's also garbage. Nothing else is really different.
Like I can't keep giving it Lucas formula if the plant is going N-tox on me. Since I switched the formula up, the N-tox symptoms have stopped getting worse.

I have been thinking about using more hard water and will try it, but I want to get some nitric acid first.

And for that matter, what nutes are you using atm Doc? I thought u were using Megacrop?

 

@Dr M #s today for you to consider:

TA - yesterday: pH 5.89 EC 1569 today: pH 5.95 EC1554 and volume lower (no way for me to see exactly). Temps stable at ~65°F
WF- yesterday: pH 6.00 EC 1274 today: pH 5.80 EC1239 and plant is drinking a lot. Ice pack changed.
CD- yesterday: pH 6.10 EC 1370 today: pH 6.05 EC 1373. Barely a difference in volume, but some loss. Ice pack changed.

I have not added anything for two days now.

And Happy Valentine's Day

 

I've used mine for DTW with little problems, maybe even beneficial, but idk... some things worry me, namely the hardness, but also the aluminum and uranium content.
No matter which way you look at it, I will be adding something to the water. The pH is about 8.5, so I would be adding pH down everytime I want to use it. I just got off the phone with the garden suppliers and they have 2.5L nitric acid ($55). I also bitched about the Ca-Spike and was told that the burns are probably because of the EDTA which made everything in the solution more available... um, yea, thanks for the warning :/
That's a gorgeous plant Mega !

 

I'm just saying it the way it is, that plant is GORGEOUS! Like seriously calendar girl material

I'm reviewing my work in the notebooks. My last successful grow with the aero was the tropicana banana (last year). I used RO but added silica (which I haven't been doing) and calnesium. Part of the variation this time around is this product calnesium. I can't use it if it keeps going bad. Maybe I can just store it in the fridge? I sent the company an email, see what they have to say. Maybe I should just get used to calimagic and be done with it. Edit: currently discussing with the company which confirmed they had a contamination problem with their product two years ago...

I notice that I've been a bit too soft with nutes this time around. My EC values were ~2.0 mS with tropicana.

Then why I get n-tox this time around?
I think a major difference is the growth requirements for a regular photosensitive strain vs. an auto strain, but I'm still reviewing.

Whatever, I think that auto is fine. Sure she ain't perfect, but most my plants be hoagly girls

 

It turns out that Future Harvest is standing behind their product. They have been very helpful in resolving my issues within an hour or so of contacting them via email. They explained that they had sent a letter to their distributors and have since changed their formula. I've attach the document (dammit)


Since I agreed to give them another chance, they are sending me 10L of complementary Calnesium.

Thanks @Dr M see what you did

 

I was doing some reading and found this tidbit in ILGM about autos. I don't know who wrote it but its a gem


LIFECYCLE OF AN AUTO

A common question I see is when to switch autos from veg to bloom. Many people are under the impression that as soon as they see the first flowers it’s time to switch. Perhaps a little explanation of the life cycle of autos will help to clarify this.

Weeks 1 - 3. Once you’ve started your seeds and they break the surface of the soil, they are in their seedling stage. The first set of leaves to appear will usually single fingered, followed by a second set that may still be single fingered or perhaps 3 fingered. Once that second set appears growth will start to accelerate as the new leaves provide more photosynthesis. This process will continue, more new leaves, faster growth. Depending on the type of soil in use, mild vegetative nutes can be introduced at week 2. By week 3 most plants will start to show their sex. Males will start to produce pollen sacks and females will display pistils.

Weeks 4 - 6. The plants are now entering a pre flowering stage. During this time the plants should exhibit explosive growth, often as much as a new set of nodes and 1" vertical growth a day. This is the time when they will gain most of their vertical height. Many people make the mistake of switching from vegetative to flowering nutrients at this point, assuming that since they see flowers it must be the proper time. This is incorrect. If the switch to flowering nutes is made at this time the vertical growth will stop and the plant will put it’s energy into producing buds. If you need to keep your plants small, or want them to finish earlier, they by all means switch nutes at this point. But if you want to get the most out of your plants continue feeding vegetative nutes until you see the vertical growth slow and stop. Depending on the strain that will usually be sometime during week 5 or 6.

Weeks 7 - 9. By now vertical growth has stopped and the switch to flowering nutrients has been made. The buds will start to fill out and put on weight, becoming hard and tight. Pistols will start to change from white to brown, orange, red, etc. By now the plants will also have developed a strong smell. Toward the end of this phase the large primary and smaller secondary fan leaves will begin to turn yellow. This is an indication that the plant is moving toward the end of it’s life.

Weeks 10 - 11. At this time flowering nutes should be discontinued and only plain pHed water fed to flush the remaining nutrients from the soil and improve the taste. Yellowing of the fan leaves will continue as the plant draws the stored energy from them. Eventually they will die and fall off. By the time that the smaller leaves that come from out of the buds will also start to turn yellow. Then it’s time to harvest.

I know that many of you are thinking that the seed bank said the plants will finish in 8-9 weeks, so why are you saying they take 10-11? The claims made by the seed banks are somewhat deceptive. If you switch to flowering nutes at week 3 or 4 the plants can finish in the times the seed banks say but they will remain small and not reach their full potential yield. Years of growing by myself and others has shown that autos do best if you follow this time line.

Of course, there will always be variations depending on the strain, the environment, nutrients, etc. This information is meant to only serve as a general guideline.