Yes, any kind of clover should work. Crimson clover is awesome, doesn't get too big, does well in cool weather and will die off over the winter. Which kind of mycorrhizal fungi do you have? The right one goes by many names, "they" keep changing it: glomus intraradices, glomus mossae, rhizophagus intraradices, rhizophagus irregularis. It is part of a general category of arbuscular endo-mycorrhizal fungi (tree-shaped, root-entering).
Thanks again. The stuff I had was, to quote, "arbuscular mycorrhizal" and "ectomycorrhizal" fungi. I read in a couple of places that this was no use for cannabis, so I returned it to the shop. I've not been able to find "endo- " in the UK, apart from one place that has insane postage costs and is out of stock anyway!. Hopefully I'll have some luck finding it before next cycle - how much of a difference does this stuff make? I will definitely harvest some rhizobium bacteria/clover nodules from the wild though, but shame as it sounds like there would be some good synergy combining that with the myco.
What you are looking for is a product with glomus intraradices spores. That's the (one) mycho that "binds" with cannabis.
Ah, damn. ecto generally form relationships with larger trees. You're still going to do great this round, going organic is a big step. Benefits of MF: Urban Horticulturists See the Benefits of Mycorrhizal Fungi Good one (the best) to get:
Thanks guys, will keep an eye out for the names you've mentioned. I found a potential product https://www.thenutrientcompany.com/product/tnc-mycorrmax/ It does have a few of those endomycorrhizae but ecto as well, and some other bits. Do you think that would be worth going for?
If that is a good price for you it will certainly do the trick. If you do any other gardening, the other species may be more or less helpful with various other plants. And the other ingredients, trichoderma, bacillus bacteria, and the microbe and plant nutrients are all good stuff. Apply it directly to the seed (dig hole, sprinkle thin layer of product, add seed, another sprinkle, cover with soil), and it will be most effective, plus a little will go a long way. You want the taproot to run into it directly, and as soon as possible. The root exudates signal the fungal spores to germinate, so they gotta be really close/touching.
Hello guys! My first grow is going ok so far. I have moved all 3 plants outside now. I do notice they seem a little sad. I checked the ph and it's a little high at 6.5. Should I add some lime? I probably have some Pelletized laying around. What's the best course of action for plants in 10 gallon pots. The mix I used does have 20-30% sphagnum and some liming agents already but apparently not enough. Two of the plants are just over 2 weeks and one is one week at this point Jian
You could top dress some pelletized lime. a couple tablespoons per container. I don't think 6.5 is really that bad, and I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just do the lime and leave it alone for now. It's my opinion, that most of us don't have the right equipment or techniques to "really" measure soil pH very accurately. Glad to hear your grow is doing well! Show us some pics! cheers os
Will do! It's kind of windy today so I'll do it in the next few days when able. I tried your wire lst trick and it was ok on the biggest one but the other 2 were being whipped all around so I left it for another time. I covered them up with an old white sheer drape lol. It works . They still get a breeze, light, and can breathe. May have to cover with plastic in a night or two. It's calling for temps in the 40's sheesh
I've not really seen much or any mention of this in thread but I wanted to ask about pH. Coming from bottled nutrient grows pH haunts me, now that I'm switching I'm wondering if it is of frequent concern to any of you with organic grows? I assume you're not checking water pH as it goes in, but do you ever check the run off and if so would you always want to see it around 6-6.5? I have a soil pH probe but it reads 0-2 for everything, I suspect it's fucked.
Those soil probes are notoriously bad. They are exactly the 'not right equipment' to which I was referring. As far as the run off test. Even when checking pH going in, and pH coming out, its a test based on a stack of false assumptions. It doesn't tell much about what is "in the soil", just in the run off. Perhaps useful if you are seeing 5's or 9's, but to fine tune things to less than 1 point, I feel the test is worthless in our types of soil. Perhaps a legit lab test would be useful, but not what most of us can do at home. If your soil is made using a recipe even close to any of the recipes here in GCO, you shouldn't worry about it. If you have something really horrible going on, I suggest sending a sample to a lab. I do believe that it is important to know what the composition of your water is. Whether its a city report, or an extension agency test of a well sample. (These are also free or cheap, so everyone should like this). It seems the only thing a well built soil needs to maintain proper pH is life and time to cycle, in addition to good water. cheers os
Thanks OS, very useful. Seems like checking run off would only be useful if your plant was already exhibiting signs of ill health then, just to narrow down what the issue might be. My soil mix is indeed very similar to those here on GCO. I've always tried to use rainwater on my plants, I'd only consider tapwater if my water butt ran empty
My assumption that something is a little off comes from the observation that the perkiest plant is the one week old one. It spent the least amount of time under the cheap LED. I suspect that it does not give off enough blue light.The Moby dick is turning out to be a Minnie minnow. The w.widow x b.bud is twice its size even though the M.D. Sprouted a day earlier. The amnesia I could see passing it as well in another week. The amnesia is a week behind it. It has been cool at night as well although it seems to bother the MD more than the others. My well water tests at 6.5 out of the tap. The runoff I tested came after a rain. So my well is about the same, at least within the accuracy range of the test kit. As you say it's not very helpful in any case. Will head out to take some pix and post them later ..... Jian
Image, Moby Dick 20180620_174414 W.w.x b.b. 20180620_174446 Amnesia The W.W. hybrid is the largest by far. It is at least twice as large as the M.D. The leaf damage on the MD occurred by lowering the light and continuing to foliar. I've cut way back on the foliars now. Any thoughts or comments are appreciated. Sorry for the clunky links, my first time posting pics here Jian
@WindDancer Cool nights will definitely slow things down. Outdoor just isn't the same as indoor where you might see 10 degree fluctuations. Your plants are probably putting more energy into building root systems. Just hang in there and leave it alone. There will be a point where they will just explode with growth, once the conditions are just right. One thing to remember about outdoor, is everything takes a lot longer. I have a '48 day super fast strain' in the greenhouse that I will be surprised to see finish in 70 days. It looks like you are doing everything right, good mulch, plants aren't tall and lanky. Here is a trick for early season. If you pull all your mulch back off of the containers, you will be able to get more heat into the soil to help combat the cool nights. The black soil will heatsink the solar energy. I know we say mulch, mulch, mulch, but at this point, warmer soil is more helpful, than worrying about keeping moisture in and feeding the microherd. Remember not to over water. Another helpful trick is to use water that is warm. With plants the size of yours, I shoot for 70-75 degree soil temps. I know this is pretty tough outside, but sometimes its helpful to know what I think ideal would be. Cool soil, and everything slows down. cheers os
Good tips there! During the day I uncover the sheer to collect the sun. I also have 2 big bags of mulch laying along the tubs collecting heat during the day. At night I cover with the shroud and lay the bags of mulch up against the tubs to help keep the soil warm. After I damaged the leaves on the MD I am being particularly careful to not overwater. I do have a question about watering. Most of the breeders say to water frequently but sparingly on autos. In your experience what's best for these big pots. Mine are plastic but do have good drainage(lava stone in bottom, 25-30% perlite thru out). Right now I have these right behind the house in full sun. In the next week I will move them and they will get less sun. They will be in the woods a bit out of sight. Lots of visitors this summer so have to be discreet. We just retired and are getting set up on our homestead. Hope to make a greenhouse of some sort in the fall for next year. We've been promised some old windows or glass doors but I haven't had a look at them yet. Thanks for all your knowledge that you so freely share! If I make it back up there this year maybe we could meet at the Moose's tooth or someplace so I can buy you a beer! Jian
The water amount outdoors depends on how dry the breeze etc is and how sunny. In my GH for seedlings I don't water at all the first week (in 10 gal pots). Then maybe a cup of water every couple days the next week. I try to encourage the roots to search out the water, and I prefer to be a little dry, instead of a little wet, especially with small young plants in large containers. Next week, like a pint every other day. My true thoughts for your situation is this. Its real easy to get 'damping off' problems from being too wet and too cool, especially with young plants. Its super easy to correct an under-watered plant, that looks droopy (from which it will recover within hours of being watered). hth If I'm not too busy I could prob run up to Anchorage for a fancy Rootbeer at the Mooses's Tooth. cheers os