I'm just dropping a few photos here as many newer growers ask for help as to what branches to remove and or save. This will show those folks a few different options. The photos will also show some super cropped branches that I tie into place to keep an even canopy up top. I keep the top 12-16" of the plant for flower development as anything lower using my lighting produces undesirable results. The first three pictures are of the same plant just entering the flowering cycle. The next two photos are another plant that is in week five of flower.
I thought I'd show my method for training the augmented mainline I prefer to grow from the very start. The strain is Gelato, it was a free seed from a previous order. First, I normally let my plants go to 5-6 nodes before topping and top just under the upper most node. I top in this manner as it increases the strength of the division. By waiting for 5-6 nodes it allows for a stronger root mass and a quicker recovery between toppings. Ok.. I don't need this plant for 6 weeks. So, I'm topping early to slow her down a little. I will train this plant here showing each step. I'll also try to explain why I do what I am during my updates.
This plant will now redirect its auxins to the lower branches. I will allow her to recover for a few days to a week before removing everything.. But, the top two leafs and branches.
Here we are 5 days later. I believe what happened here is the plants roots hit a small chunk of CSPM that caused the leaf burn and the stunted growth on that left branch. Everything will be removed anyways. I'll keep the top two branches and leaves. The leaves are used to help train the top branches out and act as collectors to help with photosynthesis. Here she is until the next update. The branches are about 3/4" long at this point. Keep in mind I am purposely trying to slow this plant down by a few weeks. I thought I'd add this plant is being grown under one 23 watt, 6500k CFL.
I thought I'd share one of my favorite training tools VELCRO. I use this in different ways. But, this is the predominant use in training my augmented mainlines. The goal at my stem divisions is about 45 degree angles.
Thanks @sweedright. I'm just laying out how I train in case newer growers want to try augmented mainlining.
They are n They have a mind of their own at times and do not always come out perfectly symmetrical. I also should make the point, these are trained from seed,not clones.
Gelato day 36 vegetative growth. Looking a bit ugly. Top view. Side view before topping and removing branches/leaves. Done training until the final topping which is usually in its final 10 gallon pot.
This week the Gelato is looking better. I'll drop 3 photos of different angles. The basic "Y" shape was a little jerky looking to me. Therefore, I'm training it with these wooden skewers and velcro. I normally do not do this. Any questions just ask. Top view. Side view. End view.
Today's update. She is ready for her final transplant. I'm just waiting for my Ethos "Punchline" to finish. I'll chop her and plant this Gelato in her place.
Excellent step by step instruction @TimJ ! Just what I need! So you have 6 tops at this point. Is that what you will finish with?
No. After I transplant this Gelato. I will top it one more time. After topping a third time it still takes several weeks to train it before it flips to flower. She is just shy of 7 weeks old. I usually end up training until around 10 weeks, then flip to flower.
The Gelato was just transplanted into her new home today. I'll show the steps in pictures. I just harvested an Ethos- PunchLine from this pot a few hours ago. This shows the tool I use to cut the roots out. I only remove the roots where this plant will drop into. You'll also see my top dress meals and worm castings. Here's the plant in her new home with the mulch layer reapplied.
I recycle it after 3 full grows. My pH creeps into the no grow range because my tap water has high alkalinity.
Here we are 10 days later. I'm starting to train out the 8 outside tops. This is a before picture. The black circled area shows the two tops spread apart in an effort to train them to their flowering positions. This picture just shows one of my tie down points.