Are your tent walls sucking in?

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself' started by Private Stalk, Aug 1, 2019.

  1. If your fans cause your tent walls to suck in, this can suck! It can eat up space and really shrink down the amount of usable grow area.

    Over time, the tent fabric may stretch out a bit true, but one primary causes of this is from the poles themselves being pulled in toward each other. Picture the tent fabric is made of elastic and stretched super tight around the frame... without any air suction at all it will bow the poles of the frame. This is essentially what is actually happening.

    So how do you combat this?

    I used some extra poles and bought clips for the ends and used them for support to keep frame from bowing.

    I then used some nylon cord to make a very tight slipknot in a few places. Works great, what do you think?

    What have you done or tried to overcome this issue?



    I have thought about using trellis type stuff too or some strong metal caging type stuff.
  2. If your tent walls are sucking in, you're applying more exhaust than inflow, am I right? Or is there something I'm missing?
  3. It still sucks in toward the top obviously, but my plants do not grow tall enough to be effected by it.

    It’s 1000x’s better than before.

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  4. I had the opposite problem with my first grow: the exhaust vent out of the house only 3", not enough to exhaust all of the air flowing in from the fans. It made my tent look like a fat kid. lol

    I fixed it eventually by exhausting some of the air into the room... not a perfect fix, but it worked.
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  5. I just crack open the extra vents at the base of my tent, then build light blocker boxes over them. Reduces demand on intake and spreads it out.
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  6. I discovered this after being very well medicated for a few days was needing a way to block light after opening my vent.. and couldnt figure out. Till i remembered i got atleast 100 card board boxes broke down to build a box in the back room .

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  7. I fight the battle of high humidity where I grow. To move maximum air, I use a 4” intake fan and a 6” exhaust fan. In flower I’ll turn the 4” intake up all the way and adjust the 6” until I find the sweet spot where my tent is neither imploding or expanding. Opening the flaps on the bottom works too but the lights in the room I grow in are usually on so light leaks were a problem.

    If the 6” fan is too powerful, you can use a pipe dampener to slow the flow down while still moving a lot of air.

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  8. I have air intake ports with light blockers but find that still overtime a negative air pressure builds. This is actually desired for me because I expel the air out of the house like dryer ducts. No smell at all inside without any filters, and no heat build up. So i can run my HPS and maybe gets 4-5F hotter inside than out.

    Those extra poles really help to stabilize too.

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  9. Sounds like my place after ordering all my gear! Haha! Boxes literally to the roof in the kitchen.
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  10. Oh yeah, a decent fan will still neg pressure, which is great if worried about stink, but it's not stretching the material quite as bad. Pretty sure I stretched my tent when I had my fan cranked out for my HID setup.

    I might do that pole thing though, my one tent is 5 ft long with no uprights in the middle, so it really sucks in bad.
  11. I have the same problem as you with the flaps I’ve opened only the side bits adding a pipe made out of carboard that can drag air thru I’m also using a small desk fan inside to drag it in
  12. I want negative pressure. So of course the sides suck in a little. Nothing wrong with it

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