Something is eating my plant and I have no idea wut it is if anyone has any idea on wut it could be that would be blessed Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
But if it’s not eating much, why be bothered by that little damage? On the other hand, a weekly spraying of BT wouldn’t hurt! I’ve seen some minor chewing going on in my plants but whatever eats... moves on. My fungus, on the other hand....... I’m doomed.
Fuck eh u can’t do anything to get rid of fungus ? That’s rough I hope that shit goes away soon for u and what is BT stand for I’m not familiar with the spray ima new grower I have sprayed bug x on it the other day for sum protection from outdoor bugs Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Do caterpillars leave class marks like that thou? I thought they were just bite marks caterpillars left and don’t caterpillars stay on your plant and lay eggs and all that stuff cuz I don’t have no caterpillars laying around my plants or on them or under leafs Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Caterpillers do not lay eggs, moths do. That doesn't look like a cattie chomp. For the most part, moths lay eggs on the underside of the leaves at about 2-3 weeks into flower. It is rare if you find them in veg. They will feed on the bottom of the fans and after they grow a bit, they go to the main stem and go up chewing off the buds at the nodes, spiraling up the buds while inside the bud. The bud will wilt and in a day or two it will dry crispy brown and when you touch that dead part it will crumble off. Look up about 4-5 nodes and you will see them bastages circling around till they reach the top bud where they will mow over the top, spin a thread and rappel away. Try using a super bright flashlight about 10pm or just before sun up, for hand picking. Catties, leave a trail of dark brown poop in their wake. Edit: I have been looking at your photos for a few hours. Negative on the bugs, it is a nutrient problem. Are you using bag soil and for how long? FFOF or FFHF only works for about 20-30 days and must be transplanted up with fresh soil. It will last less than that if you are watering with too much runoff, which washes the nutrients from the soil (20 days). The plant looks light green to me which sounds like an N problem. In fact, the plant looks hungry overall and it is into a cal/mag deficiency. This a starving issue or a lockout issue by improper PH. If it were me, I'd straighten out the NPK, and feed it cal/mag and some kelp for the trace elements and use RO to water it with which has a PH of 7 and it has all the minerals filtered out which gives it a zero PPM. You need a PH meter and a PPM meter if you are using bottles. If you are using an organic, water only type of soil, you should leave tap water to sit out to de-chlorine for 24 hours. You have to fix these problems before flowering. I'll go back to my beer, buds and I'll shutup. Sorry for butting in, I made a broken promise to stop with the advice, except on my own thread. Good luck OP!
Thanks that helps a lot do you think when I water my plant that Me letting the water run out the bottom everytime is causing the deficiency’s I use liquid nutrients like cal mag and stuff Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
The word is 10% runoff If I remember right. If you have too much runoff it will drain off essential nutrients. That's why they say, if you have to flush the container for some reason, you do it x3 the amount of soil. example... 5gal bucket of soil = 15 gals of water, because it does flush away essential nutrients. So when watering/ feeding by the bottle for the soil you start with RO water ( neutral ph of 7 and a ppm of zero) and you properly mix in the right order, your nutrients to the amount of ppm you want to feed, then ph to between 6.0-6.5 For a hydro mix they say ph of 5.5 Bag soil should be, and I say should be a ph of 7, so you can use "water only" at a ph of 7 (RO). But this changes as the soil gets washed out and causes ph problems or using tap that is not the right ph. Like using RO all along and getting lazy and giving them a drink from the hose. That is one of the reasons you should transplant up with fresh bag soil, that and the roots need more room. Ph problems cause uptake problems and lockout. My tap water is about ph of 8 and a ppm of about 250. These numbers change daily, but RO always is the same as the day before and free of chlorine. Now, if you have a tap ppm of 250 ppm and above you need to use hard water nutrients which take into account the higher ppm. Water only type of soils are amended with fast and slow nutrients that feed the plant now and later and it will adjust the water only to the proper ph and you follow this number by ph'ing the runoff. You ph the runoff of "bottle fed" plants also, to keep everything in the right range, for proper uptake. I would highly recommend getting a ph meter for bottle feeding and a ppm meter too so you know how much you are feeding them and have the proper ph so the plant can uptake fully. If you are doing water only you can probably get away with using ph test strips found at the pet store for the testing of the runoff from your organic soil. If you are on bag soil, and I think you are, I would just tp up and go with that, it would probably be the cheapest and easiest way to keep your plants in check Dammit now I'm going to downtown screwdriverville and try some of these cookies my buddy gave me. good luck and if you have more questions just ask, here on your thread, there are plenty of people willing to help out a nice guy like you with the grow.
Caterpillar would have ate lot more and would still be sitting there ive watched em on some sun flowers i had they started at the end and ate half a leaf in a day