Anybody know what this is?

Discussion in 'Sick Plants and Problems' started by Budwhyser, Nov 28, 2011.

  1. Any ideas what this might be? I have had some fungus gnats and do see some small insects crawling in the soil, but is this a fungus, an aphid issue or nute burn? This does seem to be spreading to plants in two different rooms...

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  2. My guess is root damage...

    Some more pictures might help tho, and info, like what brand of dirt, what do you add, what did you feed it, like that...
  3. The soil is my mix of peat/vermiculite/ewc/lime. I use the foxfarm grow big and big bloom about 1 tsp of each per gal. I use and EC meter and it usually reads around 1.2. Water ph is around 5.5-6.5. Room temp constant 80. Humidity 20-40%. They get watered every day and the soil is usually very dry. THey are fed weekly
  4. how big are those pots?
  5. Dam fungus gnats.... They did the same thing to my plant, I had to harvest two weeks early. The flying gnats lay their eggs in your soil, they hatch, the larva eat your roots! That's what is happening to your plant. You must water too much... Let your soil dry out so your plant wilts, once the soil is dry, the fungus goes bye bye, and the larva have nothing to eat and the bastards die!!! It's relatively an easy fix... Good luck!
  6. I had something similar and it was cuz I waited too long to feed showed a phos def...but if its fungus gnats thats a super simple easy shmeezy fix homie..i had em last time and the time before but all I do is toss in a hotshot no pest strip for a day or two and youll never see em again..been doing it for years now and I never had a gnat peoblem again.
  7. Budwhyser : You have severe phosphorus deficiency...look at your stems ...the purple lines...

  8. Hey thanks for that. But do they come back every time the soil gets moist again?

  9. Yeah I heard those strips work great. May have to pick me up a couple. Thanks.

  10. I didn't see that pure till you mentioned it. Would you use a general nute to fix or something super high in P?
  11. no no and no just mix four gal of week # 4 nutrients and bring ph to 6.5 and flush pot keep strong light and low RH and wait until the pot is half dry and water as normal if there is bugs in soil then mix azatrol in solution and you will be good
  12. The gnats themselves cause no harm, it's the larva they lay in your soil that will eat at your roots.
    ...let your soil dry all the way out, that will kill 80-90% of the larva from the gnats, then hang the sticky strips around your room in several places to catch the for me.

    ....I think your plant issue has more to do with the fertilizers than the gnats, imo.....I'd let them dry, then flush, then fertilize.......then let them dry out afterwards again, follow up with water.....let dry, then water again.....let dry, fertilize....let dry, water, let dry water......repeat cycle (fertilize, water, water, fertilize, water, water,fertilize, exc...)
  13. Looks like a phosphorus problem...Phosphorus gets locked out at a ph 4.0-5.5...

    You did say your ph was as low as 5.5, so I would first check the soil ph and adjust within the range I stated above, with 6.5 being optimal. Keep an eye on your plants new growth for a week or so and if that helped then it was a phosphorus lockout due to low ph.

    If your ph is spot on their deficient and a good fertilizer(FF Tiger Bloom)with a high amount of phosphorus will cure your problem....Any fert with phosphorus will do it but, the tiger bloom is fast absorbing.
  14. Having a gnat problem myself. Got those sticky strips a while ago with little success. Just added a teaspoon of Azamax for every gallon of water and soaked them down real good. Also did a foliar spray with the same soution and we will see how it goes. ill post the results in a couple of days.

  15. mentioned, the gnats are no harm for the most may see them here and there, but if there's an overwhelming amout of them it's probably due to your soil being overwatered....the larva are very sensative to moister, they must stay moist or die.........running your pots on the 'dry side' will keep them under control easily.

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