Any Hydro experience with General Hydroponics' Floralicious Plus?

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by Olde School, Apr 4, 2016.

  1. Hey, what's up GrassCity Growers :love-mj2:, looking for some experience info. & hoping you have it. I generally follow GH's Flora 3-part expert recirculating formulas in my grows but I've stayed away from any of the additives whose ingredients lean more toward organic plant-based ingredients. But, if you keep on doing what you always been doing you (a) probably won't fork up and (b) probably won't learn anything new either. So I'm looking for some others' experience to get past the "won't learn anything new" step.

    My last grow was Sannie's Anesthesia from clone, 600W-HID, 9" square net pots w/ hydroton in ebb & flow table. The clones were from my mother, been keeping her for maybe 18+ months, so the clones were known source / good genetics / no bugs. Simply put, I know the strain well.
    The grow started under a challenge, stunted vegetative growth not progressing like I would have liked. So I treated with a nute dump, top-flushed twice over 24 hours using home made ClearRes (Shock 'n Swim), followed by p-H'ed H2O and ClearRes for two more days. Back to the nutes & the girls took off like crazy, 12" top growth in a week, Sweet. So sensing that the girls needed a little something extra to get on their way to bloom, I started adding Floralicious plus when I switched to Bloom nute formulation & flipped light cycle to 12/12. Everything looked great, started showing bloom right on schedule 10 days after the flip. The stretch didn't really last that long but the bloom set was healthy and growth looked good.
    But, as the bloom cycle progressed, the buds seemed to just stop growing early, and never really filled out into the nice hard nuggets this strain is capable of producing (lots of golf-ball to lemon-size buds, not really long donkey dicks but plenty of good size nuggets stepping up the tops & major sides).

    Sooooo, I'm left questioning myself, was this a left-over of the bacterial issue I beat down during the veg cycle, or could this have something to do with the addition of the Floralicious Plus? I'm not really expecting anyone to be able to answer that question for me; I can't answer it myself & I was here :poke: :love-m3j: But where anyone could help me is, have you used the product in pure hydro, and if so, what was your experience? The only thing I saw out-of-ordinary was that the stuff stains your reservoir and flood tray a dark brown. Washes off with a bit of light scrub but it DOES stain. But no foaming, no odors, no slime, stable pH, absolutely nothing that would indicate an organic problem in a hydro grow.

    BTW, Floralicious Plus is, to quote, "... contains a dormant beneficial microbe (Bacillus Subtilis)that activates when it is introduced to a plant's root structure [I also used myco's]. This metabolic fuel solution is packed with powerful vitamins, complex plant sugars, protein building amino acids, seaweed extracts, carbon building blocks and aromatic oils all in a humic / fulvic acid base [I also use Diamond nectar, which is also a humic/fulvic additive]. Recommended for use in soil/soilless, coco, and hydro...."

    Experienced opinions needed & welcomed, Brothers & Sisters. Based upon the price & description, the stuff should grow sprouts on a broomstick.
    :passing-joint:
     
  2. Bump - any help out there, Boyz n' Gurls????
    I need to start another round soon:bang:
     
  3. If you're running H2O2 and other sterilizers it will kill any microbes in the Floralicious Plus, so this would be a replacement for the sterilizers where you keep a beneficial bacterial culture (the brown stain on the roots) alive to compete with any potential harmful ones. I've run both a sterile res and bacterial cultures in my res, and the one with the cultures smelled better and had more frost coverage.

    I don't personally run Floralicious Plus, as I buy my cultures in bulk but I know lots of people that are running it and swear by it.

    A good option if you want to run a sterile res, get your cultures in bulk like I do, or don't wan't the extra nitrogen in the Floralicious Plus(2-0.8-0.02) is Floralicious Bloom(1-1-1) which just offers extra nutrients and flavor enhancers.

    www.amazon.ca/General-Hydroponics-Floralicious-Bloom-1-Quart/dp/B0001XAGXC/ref=sr_1_3?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1459894022&sr=1-3&keywords=floralicious
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. Thanks for the reply, fm. In the past I've run a sterile res.; this is my "toe in the water" for hydro with beneficial cultures. I'm not running H2O2, although I did run ClearRes during my veg stage when about 1/2 my plants were stunted. But I knew that would wipe out everything good and bad, so when growth was getting to normal after the clean and flush I re-inoculated with myco's and more FP. But you make some good points that have me thinking in a different direction.
    1, I hadn't really considered the FP product as a bacterial culture; I initially thought is was only to provide a favorable culture growth environment. It wasn't until later that I discovered FP contains Bacillus Subtilis. I do buy my myco's in bulk (VAM), and I need to research if the culture in the FP will conflict with those in the VAM.
    2. But now I'm wondering if the 2% N in the FP contributed to lack of bud growth; I hadn't even considered ythat. The plants stayed healthy, the buds just stopped growing about mid way into bloom. Like maybe too much N does stunt bud growth. But the product is only applied at 1mL per gallon, is that enough to really affect the N ratio in the overall mix? Maybe?
    3. Should I be thinking beyond just myco's? Like adding subculture-B to the equation? What are you running in your res?

    Thanks again for the reply, good info. to start.
     
  5. Subculure B would be the same Bacillus bacteria in the Floralicious plus. I'm not sure the extra N would stunt growth, but it can cause a bit darker leaves than I like which means a longer flush at the end. The 3 things I've had stunt plants in flower is lack of phosphorus, lack of carbs (Koolbloom) and old bulbs.

    I currently run Tetra Pond Sludge Reducer at 1/16th tsp per gallon, $15 gets you enough to treat 16,000gal of water. I had a plant with full on root rot, yellowing leaves with black spots and I bumped that up to 1/2tsp per gallon and all the dead roots dissolved and the plant I was going to throw out turned out like this

    [​IMG]
     
  6. I used to use F Plus religiously but I finally decided not to add organic "enhancers" to my res. I feed with salt based chemical dry products mixed and added to the res.
    I have noticed no adverse affects or yield changes and I have saved a crapload of money normally spent on additives. I also no longer get scummy looking res or clogged lines etc.
     
    • Like Like x 2
  7. I'm getting into an area here where I don't understand everything I know, so I appreciate you helping me talk through this.
    Phosphorous was fine, between the FloraBloom at 0-5-4 and KoolBloom at 0-10-10. No deficiency symptoms either.
    The only carbs I ran were in the FP. Well ... KoolBloom but does that contain carbs? I thought that was all vitamin & mineral.
    Bulb is good, third grow on this one, but thanks for the reminder, need to start shopping.
    Back to my excess Nitrogen theory as one I don't know if I can prove for this grow. I do know from past experience that excess N during bloom will result in excess leaf growth and smaller buds at harvest. I've seen it in the past with a C-99 strain and a Matanuska Thunder strain. Both were N sensitive (didn't know at the time) and they presented all leaf and no yield at harvest. That's what this round of Anesthesia looks like, too many (healthy) leaves and much smaller buds than past grows from the same mother have done. So I've got to question that.
    And on the surface, the 2-0.8-0.02 strength indicates it might be adding a considerable amount of N to my overall mix. BUT a measure rate of 1mL / gal. makes me doubt that. And GH doesn't state what type of N is used in FP Plus, but the description makes me think it's an organic derivative that won't even show up on my ppm readings, so all I have here is a SWAG.

    So what I am getting from our exchange is that FP Plus is a fine product with no known contraindications, so it shouldn't be CAUSING this problem. Except maybe what I may be doing to myself by getting a little ahead of my own knowledge curve:confused: (don't understand everything I know). I've been ignoring the N content in the FP, and I've been using Diamond Nectar for the humic / fulvic acids, which are also in the FP, which is going to make uptake of any N (and other ingredients) even more efficient, so maybe I AM going too high for N. So next grow gets a reduction in base nute strength, continued FP Plus, adding FloraBlend for a more hospitable bacterial environment. And the final carb question. Should I add FloraNectar for more carbs? I want to try that anyway for my Pineapple Express and Pineapple Chunk.

    Your pond sludge reducer sounds an awful lot like my home-made ClearRes, derived from Shock 'n Swim, a hot tub / spa treatment. My $5 bag will probably outlast me!!!

    Thanks again for the input.


    Thanks for the input, deman. It's good to hear others have used the product successfully, that helps. So for now I'm going the opposite direction from you; I used to run pure salt-bases only (GH Flora 3-part) but I want to stretch my learning curve and see what I can do with fungi / bacteria / other closer-to-organic methods.

    Just as long as I don't have to piss around with worm poop and bat do-do; I been there / done that when I was an outdoor grower.
     
  8. The Sludge Reducer contains bacteria and enzymes like hygrozyme and cannazyme but at a much cheaper cost, the spa treatment is probably chemical based and will kill all bacteria/fungi good or bad. I was under the impression that the Koolbloom contained carbs, but maybe I should be adding FloraNectar myself, but I try to run cheap and simply so I skip a few things but I basically run a modified version of Irons Method found here, which is great for avoiding excess N as we cut out the FloraGrow completely.

    forum.grasscity.com/threads/ironheads-method-for-success.1371748/

    I run:

    MaxiBloom -1tsp per Gal
    CalMag - 2.5ml per Gal
    ProSilicate - 1.5ml per Gal
    KoolBloom - 7.5ml per Gal (Flower only)
    Sludge Reducer - 1/16tsp per Gal

    This works in both DWC and coco/perlite, I run the same during flower and veg, start to finish other than the KoolBloom.


    You can replace the MaxiBloom with the GH Micro at 4ml per Gal and GH Bloom at 10ml per Gal.
     

  9. Cool - and you're absolutely right, the Shock 'n Swim contains calcium Hypochlorite, magnesium sulfate and a number of other calcium based compounds. It's absolutely great for clone machines and sterile reservoirs to clean root contaminants, but as you indicate, it does wipe out the good and bad. When I've used it its been a project - dump and flush, run a high concentration pumped from the reservoir through the top of each container 2X, then a lesser concentration for three days, followed by another flush, then back to mild nutes, then 24-48 hours later, retreat with myco's and other beneficials. But if the plants don't show signs of recovery within 24-48 hours of going back to mild nutes, you are pretty well resigned to running the weaker solution for the rest of the grow. I'll be keeping this on the shelf for sterile reservoir runs, but I mos'def' like your sludge reducer approach & I'll be running out to pick up a bag this week.

    Yeah, KoolBloom is largely a heavy does of P & K (0-10-10), along with some "secret" minerals that are supposed to help nute uptake (probably humic/fulvic acids like most of their products are beginning to include) and vitamins to help protect / enhance rooting. I believe this latter is something very similar to the B-vitamins (without the rooting hormones) that form the basis of SuperThrive; you can smell the similarity as soon as you open the jug. So if you're needing extra carbs (like when running lower salt-based N products) look elsewhere. FloraNectar is great, very clean & stable for a carb based product, but if you look at the ingredients, primaries are raw cane sugar, molasses, malt syrup and other indirectly related stuff.
    If you are running coco drain-to-waste, I believe you will get a huge "bang-for-your-buck by going with blackstrap molasses instead. Coco as a grow medium has the structure to support blackstrap and the related beneficials that it helps develop. I can't do that because I'm hydroton for my medium and the blackstrap creates a reservoir mess. But if you're flood and drain, then FloraNectar is the only way to go that I'm familiar with.
    I like seeing the silica in your formula, too many growers ignore that. That and Diamond Nectar have been the two best performance improving additives I've discovered.
    IronHead??? He & I go way back on here, nothing but respect for his posts. I can't ever recall seeing anything in his posts/threads that I could disagree with. He has been a huge help for beginning and intermediate growers on here for years. I haven't visited his recipe for success threads for awhile, but I thought he was running a slightly modified version of Lucas using GH Flora nutes in coco? Regardless, if you've found a way to use his method with dry GH-Maxi, congrats. His grow methods are rock solid & as close to guaranteed to succeed as you can get in this "business".

    OK, I think I've got my plan. And it looks like the Tetra is sold at WallyWorld so it's close by. I think I'm going to try out this formulation on my party tent's OG Kush-Auto that's not being all she can be, then onward and upward. Is it Green Crack or Pineapple Express? And that one EmDog freebie that IronHead ranted about & can't wait to grow again?
    :Love-Plant:

    Appreciate the sounding board, Bro. If I can keep track of this thread I'll let you know how it turns out.
     
  10. Last question - So 1/16 tsp per gallon would be 2.5 tsp / 12.5ml for my 40 gallon res.; way less for my 2X2 party tent with its 14 gal. res. Is there any variation in the dosing, say for treating a known infection versus just creating a healthy maintenance environment? Or do you ever apply this to each plant in a diluted top-feed solution to get it to the roots quickly?
     
  11. I don't have much to go on except the dosages on the bottle, which is for like 400gal lol so I just experimented to get that 1/16tsp per gal. I've used up to 1/2tsp per gal when I've had a problem and it cured my root rot in days and dissolved all the dead roots leaving nothing but pearly whites.
    [​IMG]
     
    • Like Like x 1
  12. Thanks Buddy, I'm going to start this tomorrow in my auto tent & try it with my next real grow as well. Appreciate the time & the input.
     
  13. Can you run this from sprout to do a sterile res the whole time I don't have an lynda beneficial bacteria I only use floranova koolbloom diamond nectar and calimagix
     
  14. Hey JT, check the pm I just sent, but no, you can't run this in a sterile res, the shock 'n swim / home made ClearRes takes out the good AND bad bacteria. This is an alternative to sterile that should result in clean healthy roots, and you can take advantage of all the good things that will keep your roots healthy.
     
  15. Same question the sterile rez can be ran the whole time correcr
     
  16. Yes, but you are wasting your money including the hydroguard (or the Tetra product referenced here) with the home made clear res. The Clear Res will kill both of these as well.
     
  17. I am going to try the sludge reducer.

    Sent from my SM-N910P using Grasscity Forum mobile app
     
    • Like Like x 1

Share This Page