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Another Tincture Thread - Try it, You'll like it

Discussion in 'Weed Edibles' started by PsychedelicSam, Sep 4, 2012.

Page 658 of 1330
  1. #13141 PsychedelicSam, Dec 25, 2016
    And you, too, Heavn!

    How did your ghee turn out? :huh:
     
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  2. #13142 Heavn, Dec 25, 2016
    I'm waiting on the lecithin. Going for the package tomorrow. Don't want to chance it going bad when it can wait.

    Sent via my pet rock...
     
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  3. #13143 Heavn, Dec 26, 2016
    Ok I need some help. Pretty depressed. I came home from the holiday away and found a small amount of mold growing on my bud I have jared and been burping. I thought I would be home in time and obviously wasn't. Smoking is out. So any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
     
  4. #13144 PsychedelicSam, Dec 26, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
    I'm so sorry to hear that, Heavn. I don't have any clue how to help you with that one other than removing the moldy portion and doing a magnified examination of the rest. I've never been a grower, other than my closet a time or two, so I've never had to confront that although my caregiver once gave me some buds with powdered mildew and I smoked enough of it before I knew something was REALLY wrong. I now have a granuloma in in my lung thanks to it.

    OldRose and others recently during harvest this year were having some fungal issues and I'm sure they can advise you on this. You're probably going to lose the material that already has mold but it's possible that alcohol may negate that. I would think that you'd want to dry out your buds as quickly as you can, though. I'll be watching for the answer myself since this is an important topic.

    In the meantime I will try to research whether tincturing it will work.

    Edit: I found this in another forum and in the same thread it gives similar information from Skunk Pharmaceuticals. The quote I'm posting here is info from Analytical360 which is a well established lab that I have used. I'll keep looking. It seems the kind of mold makes a difference. :)

    "I called up Analytical360 in Seattle, where I had had a couple of tests done in the past on the RSO I make, and asked them point blank if the Everclear method of extraction to make oil would kill the mold spores of botrytis and powdery mildew. The microbiologist there said a resounding 'Yes, the ethanol extraction method does kill any harmful spores from these two molds', but he cautioned me about aspergillus mold which produces a toxin that isn't killed by alcohol and is quite dangerous to ingest. I will do some research on this aspergillus mold, but I've had no problems with it yet, so I'm just going to go ahead and make some oil out of this 1/2 ounce with a bit of botrytis, keep it separate for myself to see if there's any qualitative difference." Alcohol kills Botrytis and Powdery Mildew - Medicinal Cannabis Forum - International Cannagraphic Magazine Forums
     
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  5. #13145 Heavn, Dec 26, 2016
    Yeah I've seen some places where people have said tinicture or edible but was hoping for some advice from people I actually have spoke with.

    I came here cause seemed most logical place. Here's keeping fingers x.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
     
  6. #13146 Ganjadoctor, Dec 26, 2016
    Hi psam. Would be lovely if you could share the hard candy recipe and method?
     
  7. #13147 Ganjadoctor, Dec 26, 2016
    Hi psam. Would be lovely if you could share the hard candy recipe and method?
     
  8. #13148 Heavn, Dec 26, 2016
    So basically since I won't know exactly the mold it's a chance. To make it a tinicture seems like a plausible thing to maybe try?

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
     
  9. #13149 STIGGY, Dec 26, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
    Man that sucks
    I have had that happen also
    Do you have any pics?
    I am not sure if the plant that has the mold is safe to salvage any smokeless herb (I just Fixed That)
    But go through it and find any clean bud and separate it and dry it well
    I use meters in my burping bins to tell me when I am at 62% than into jars and Humi paks Boveda 62%
    Too late to do that now
    Very sorry.

    I have cut bud rot from buds and saved it There has to be some way to stop the spread.
    Did you ask Jerry and the crew in the organics thread Bunch of knowledgeable growers
     
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  10. #13150 PsychedelicSam, Dec 26, 2016
    If nothing else, we can get you referred to the right place. You may be able to tell a bit more about the mold by physical appearance and comparing it to pictures. :confused_2:
     
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  11. #13151 Heavn, Dec 26, 2016
    It's 3 oz... I guess if it really bugs me I can always make a salve out of it .....

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
     
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  12. #13152 PsychedelicSam, Dec 26, 2016
    Sure, Ganjadoctor. Do you want regular hard candy or sugar-free? Unfortunately, I don't have a video or pictures because it's too hard to do by myself and you have to work fast. :)
     
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  13. #13153 PsychedelicSam, Dec 26, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
    Let's hope that it doesn't get to that. I guess the first thing you should do is separate the moldy areas you can see from the rest then let everything air dry with a fan blowing over it. Here's the article from Skunk Pharmaceuticals. It looks promising. :huh:

    Oops! Forgot the link. Salvaging Moldy Material
     
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  14. #13154 Ganjadoctor, Dec 26, 2016
    Regular pls. Thanks
     
  15. #13155 Ganjadoctor, Dec 26, 2016
    Regular pls. Thanks
     
  16. #13156 roymonster, Dec 26, 2016
    My god man why couldn't you just get to the point ?? No offense but you do talk a lot!
     
  17. #13157 PsychedelicSam, Dec 26, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 26, 2016
    Because the devil is in the details. And I do talk a lot. It's my thread so what about it? There's no one twisting your arm to read it but I'm glad that you did and welcome to our discussion. You don't have to read it all; up to you. :)
     
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  18. #13158 BrassNwood, Dec 26, 2016
    Salvaging Moldy Material
    I see Sam has already posted it.. Microscopic examination will tell you the type of mold and if you should attempt to salvage it or not.. Since it cropped up in the jar on dead material it's likely the bad stuff from reading the article..
    Salvaging Moldy Material
    Posted by Skunk Pharm Research,LLC.

    The question whether mold material is safe to use, regularly comes up on multiple forums, and there is no more a yes or no answer to the question, than there is about eating wild mushrooms. All molds were not created equal!

    Like mushrooms, molds belong to families, and while some are salubrious and even used by us in manufacturing processes, others can be deadly.

    All of us have smoked moldy material, whether we knew it or not, because it is all around us, but unless you have a compromised immune system or are allergic to the spores, you don’t notice it.

    In quantities large enough to create an allergic reaction, or with compromised immune systems however, the results range from a runny nose, to death.

    The mold spores are the principle source of allergic reactions, but allergic reactions aside, some of the molds produce aflatoxins that attack our central nervous system and livers. Mold material can easily be removed by filtration, but filtration doesn’t remove aflatoxins.

    When considering what to do with moldy material, the pregnant question is what kind of mold? What caused the mold is a clue, but the only reliable way to tell, is with a microscope, and I recommend that you do a microscopic examination to determine exactly what you are dealing with.

    Locally, due to our short growing season, Botrytis bud rot is the bane of outdoor growers, and because of our high humidity, Powdery Mildew is everywhere.

    [​IMG][​IMG]

    Botrytis Mold

    [​IMG]Powdery Mildew

    The good news is that while the spores of both are capable of producing a Type I allergic reaction to those sensitive to them, neither produce know aflatoxins, so simply removing all the spores and mold material, makes it useable by removing allergens, as well as the ghastly moldy taste and smell.

    Botrytis is actually the mold that produces Noble Rot in grapes, which is highly prized by wine makers for producing sweet wines. I know of no prized use of ubiquitous powdery mildew and it is known by many other names, some of them not repeatable in polite company.

    Of serious concern, an not to be taken lightly, are the Aspergillus and Penicillum molds, which are hard to distinguish from one another with simple microscopic examination, so are generally classified as Pen/Asp types.

    They are easy to spot, as they were named Aspergillus because their shape, consisting of a shaft with a head like the religious water flinger the priests use, called an Aspergillum.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aspergillus_fumigatus

    Aspergillus is primarily a composting mold living off dead plant material, while Botrytis and Powdery Mildew target living material.

    As previously noted, it has spores everywhere, but poorly cured material is the primary reason for an infestation. It likes to grow in dark damp places.

    Aspergillus is the more serious actor when it comes to serious health effects, both from allergic reactions to its spores, invasive colonization, and from its aflatoxins, but Penicillium sp. is known to cause keratitis, external ear, respiratory and urinary tract infections, so it isn’t soft and cuddly.

    The allergenic effects seen by Aspergillus spores include: Type I allergies; Type III hypersensitivity pneumonitis and others.

    Some Aspergillus species are known to produce aflatoxins. A. fumigatus causes allergic bronchopulmonary aspergillosis and allergic fungal sinusitis.

    Members of this genus cause a disease called Aspergillosis, which is an invasive infection, colonization, toxicoses or allergy.

    Many species grow at body temperature and they are opportunistic pathogens, causing infection in individuals with compromised immune systems.

    Many toxins are generated by this genus, however, the full range of effects of these toxins are not well researched at this time. They do fluoresce under ultraviolet light however, so their presence may detected by examination under a black light inspection lamp, such is used in Magnetic Particle and FPI Non-destructive Inspection techniques.

    The aflatoxins will fluoresce green under the backlight and any residual solvent will fluoresce blue.

    [​IMG]

    While not a mold, a bacteria anaerobic conditions created by poor curing practices promotes the growth of, and which has been found in poorly cured cannabis, is the Clostridiums.

    The Clostridiums includes C botulinum causing botulism in food, and from which Botox is derived, as well as C Perfringens, which causes food poisoning and gas gangrene, as well as C Tetani, the pathogen causing tetanus.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clostridium

    Soooo, now that you know what to look for, if after examining your moldy material under a microscope, you still want to recover it, here is how we remove Botrytis and Powdery Mildew filaments and spores, as well as any of the Clostridium bacteria that may be present.

    Our next step is to extract the essential oil from the plant material, using either an alkane or an alcohol.
    More.....................

    BNW
     
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  19. #13159 PsychedelicSam, Dec 26, 2016

    I'll be glad to do that, doc, but give me a few hours. I'll have it up before the end of the day but probably sooner.     ;)
     
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  20. #13160 PsychedelicSam, Dec 26, 2016
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2017
    Green Dragon/Shatter Hard Candy
    ​
    This is really almost a copy and paste of the recent isomalt guide because the process is exactly the same for both. I have made the changes but I'm sorry I don't have pictures or video to go with it but maybe I can capture it the next time. We'll see at the time, as long as my hand cooperates. Since I don't have the video you'll have to rely on the recipe.

    This recipe is made using a concentrated Green Dragon extraction for raw material or by using shatter or other decarbed concentrate dissolved in alcohol. It's the GD that is going to infuse the candy. When using GD I normally use 1oz at a ratio of 4g/oz for each 1/2 cup of sugar and I concentrate it again by half so that I'm using about half an ounce of liquid per batch. If you wanted to make a double strength batch then you would concentrate 2oz of the GD to 15ml/.5fl oz, per 1/2 cup. You want to be sure that you use enough alcohol to give you an even distribution when it's stirred but too much will cool the candy faster which can be bad if you're not very fast, like me.    ​

    This is how I infuse the candy.

    Equipment
    • Saucepan
    • Silicon spatula
    • Candy thermometer
    • Molds
    Ingredients
    • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
    • 1/4 cup (2oz) light corn syrup
    • 1oz distilled or filtered water
    • Gel food color (optional)
    • Flavoring (optional)
    • Concentrated Green/Gold or Shatter Dragon
    Directions
    • Pour the sugar, corn syrup and water into the saucepan, stirring until well blended.
    • Place the saucepan on medium-high heat, stirring a bit as it melts.
    • When the bubbles start around the edge attach the candy thermometer, keeping it off the bottom of the pan.
    • Stop stirring when it starts boiling and let it cook.
    • Add a few drops of food coloring when the temperature reaches 260°F. Do NOT stir. The boiling candy mix will distribute it.
    • Cook until the mixture reaches 302°F although I prefer to let it hit a little higher because I'm not sure of my thermometer and 4-6 extra degrees ensures that it stays hard. This might take a while but once it reaches 250° it goes pretty quickly.
    • Have your flavoring bottle and concentrated GD ready for rapid deployment while waiting for the previous step. I use one little bottle of LorAn flavoring per batch.
    • When the temperature reaches 302° take it off the heat. Leave the thermometer in the candy.
    • Set the saucepan of molten candy at your workplace and watch the thermometer. When the thermometer gets back down to 270, quickly take it out and set it down then get your silicon spatula in hand for a rapid response in the next step. It has stopped bubbling and is more like a lava but the heat is dropping fast.
    • Quickly pour your flavoring into the candy mixture then in the same breath....
    • .....Quickly add your Dragon infuser and now stir like the dickens while the alcohol flashes off so you get your flavor and cannabinoids evenly infused.
    • After the alcohol has flashed off and the candy has been well stirred, pour it into your molds or onto a buttered plate like I usually do. I then pull off pieces of warm candy and roll them into "dinosaur eggs". Sprinkle powdered sugar onto your hands and the top of the candy slab to keep it from sticking. You can also just break it into pieces once it's cooled
    • Store in an airtight container at room temperature. You can store them in the refrigerator if you want but it shouldn't be necessary. You can add some powdered sugar which will keep them loose.
    You dose by weight. From experience 1oz of GD with a ratio of 4g/oz ranges from 450-750mg per ounce depending on the starting material, that's 15%-25% cannabinoids. Each gram of candy will be 2-3mg and you'd ingest 10-15g of candy for an approximate 30mg dose.

    It's a real easy process and the only things you need to be aware of are your temperatures and the need for speed when you add your goodies to be sure of an even infusion.

    For any leftover candy you can't get out of the saucepan simply put a little water in the pan and dissolve the candy with it. You then have a flavored drink that should get you very medicated. :ey:
     
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