alternative to HLG's quantom boards... the supplier!

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by Reo, Dec 14, 2017.

  1. Hmmm.. no offense to your setup, and it’s a really nice one, but that just looks like the supplier cut corners by not matching a proper size extrusion to the larger pcb.

    I’m taking notes about these suppliers. It seems that there isn’t a one stop shop that hits all the right marks, at least in my book.
     
  2. Dont really like Meijiu but gotta defend them on this one. First of all, the 800V2 boards are much thicker (3oz) compared to the usual 288s. This means more copper and costs more for them when boards are larger. The spacing of diodes are done very well without cutting corners. They actually spent more making them. Goes without saying that the larger surface area dissipates heat better. They are slightly cooler than V1s to begin with.

    Now for the heatsink, I would not want them any larger than it is. It is already too heavy for my liking and it works perfectly. We would be better off adding a small fan than adding more weight to a heatsink that increases both product and shipping cost. In my opinion though, its more than adequate.
     
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  3. I agree with you . I really like their diode layout, and I had no idea they use 3oz copper. I know this costs more, but as far as conductivity, I’m not sharp enough on the topic to know If it makes much difference on this scale.

    What I was pointing out, I think their current layout, with a proper sized Heatsink/extrusion would serve them well.
     
  4. Way too heavy and unnecessary if you ask me though. Makes the heatsink costs more and adds to shipping (more taxes too for those subjected to them). Especially since the old one works great. I really don't see any advantages to making a larger one.

    Another good thing about the 800 V2 boards. Since they stick out on the sides, they also have tiny holes along the sides. A lot of DIY can be done with this. I just used garden wire to piece a red supplement board to the sides of a V2 800 board.
     
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  5. Hey, I’m not trying to crap on anyone’s lights, but the argument of lighter shipping weights, and a fraction of the price per pound of aluminum, is nonsense.

    All I am saying, this particular supplier should put together their kits with a proper sized heatsink.

    Sorry, not sorry.
     
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  6. Bro...I don't know what I said to deserve that. How did I offend you? Price of a new heatsink is not just how much extra aluminum is added in. The reason we get them cheap is because someone paid for tooling and molding cost, to manufacture them in bulk. Cost per unit manufactured is low only if you produce large quantities. Don't forget, there are loads of fixed costs like rental, labor, machine etc. Thats why we can buy generic sized heatsinks very cheaply but custom sized ones costs way more. The makers of the generic molds have made all their money back and more. So they mass produce to flood the market with low prices.

    For Meijiu to make a new mold, to create a new heatsink, and factor that into the selling price will make them much less competitive on Alibaba. Not factoring it will cause them losses. The current one works just fine and who says a QB heatsink has to cover the entire board? People who owns one will tell you its just as good.

    Can you give me one advantage of a larger heatsink that can justify a higher price? I own one and cannot see any?

    To say that shipping from Alibaba (or the taxes that comes with higher product prices) don't matter is your own statement but I feel it doesn't represent the masses.

    I'm sorry that you aren't sorry. And please note that I really don't have a single problem with you. I was having fun joining a discussion. Will continue to do so
     
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  7. If you run them at 200 watts or lower you don’t need heatsinks.
    I am going to be running 4 sets of 3 boards on hlg 480 48a drivers.
    Maxed they’re pulling around 570 watts.
    No heatsinks for me :love-m3j:
     
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  8. Sorry, this wasn’t a personal attack. All
    I was trying to say, regardless of
    Manufacturer, I would have expected a perfect fit for the price. Sorry if you’re misunderstanding me.
     
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  9. Hello all,
    I'm looking for more insights from you. Currently, I have a 2.5x2.5 tent and this piece 240w-qb304 from Shenzen (great light, so no complaint about it). However, I was thinking about buy another 4x4 tent.

    My question is, should I buy :
    1.a 65w for my 2.5x2.5 then use 240w for 4x4.
    2Or buy a stronger light for 4x4 like 320w?

    I know more light the better, but the cost between 2 options is around 200$ (also the electricity each month). I also live in a hot climate area, with summer reach around 36C outside and 33C inside tent(I dont have AC for my tent). So I want to avoid as much heat as possible.

    Between 2 options, is it worth it to invest in a higher watt light (320w) in term of cost and effectiveness(yield/watt for example)?

    Sorry for bad English, any input would be greatly appreciated.

    Cheers,
     
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  10. I don’t know your price of electricity, but I live in California and it’s higher than average. My bill hardly has a noticeable difference.


    I would go with option 2 between those choices.

    Another option could be to get a small 120w driver for you 2x2, running a single board. I. Your 4x4, get a 320w driver, and purchase 3 additional boards, to make a total of 4 boards in your bloom tent. If you can afford a higher wattage 480w driver, even better.
     
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  11. In my personal experience, my tent temperatures stay within 4°F or lower vs. ambient temperature, only using an in-line fan.
     
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  12. Thank you for your reply. Heat is kind of a big concern to me, I'm from Vietnam and I have 32C with light on at night. I guess these lights are sturdy, the passive cooling thermal pads are enough so the light does not burn itself down.

    Another question, I start my 240w at 25% with the dimmer, my plants are now 2 weeks, how should I increase the voltage? May be 50% now and 95% when they start blooming? This light is really strong so I'm afraid I might burn them with too much light.
     
  13. Here’s a chart that should help you out. Get yourself an inexpensive lux meter, and you should be able to adjust the light intensity for seedlings to bloom.

    [​IMG]
     
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  14. I have this model Meijiu 240w Folux 288qb Indoor Grow Samsung Lm561c Warm White For Veg And Bloom - Buy Diy Led Grow Light,561c,Indoor Grow Product on Alibaba.com
    Is there a way to translate umol from lux for my model? I found this chart in hlg:
    upload_2019-4-23_3-23-43.png
    Still trying to do the math with my 2.5x2.5. Should have pay attention in school.
     
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  15. Hello, first post. I like to contribute something before I ask for help. I've been thinking about using individual strips to get a more even spread because I scrog and I only have room for a 32x32x63 tent so I'd like to have a fixture I can have close to the canopy. I made a couple illustrations depicting 6 strips with different spreads. There's no accounting for reflection from the side so in real life the light would be a little more even, especially on the sides. The first pic is with the strips spread evenly, the second 19" across, the third 21" across. These are not what you'd call scientifically accurate but they should give you a rough idea at least.
     
  16. yeo @El Cheapo welcome to GC man,
    I think you need to look at my latest purchase heh heh speaking of cheapos.

    I use strips too and they are less prone to hot spots, so I do like them, although full 100% coverage is good too.

    You may enjoy this thread
    LED lighting and effect on Photobiology
     
  17. Why would you increase the humidity when switching to flowering?
     
  18. I don't have heat sinks either, mine are run at a low wattage and they stay plenty cool

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. I didn’t make the chart, but my humidity tends to hover around that range when I’m flowering.
     

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