Advanced Nutrients users, what ratio do you use?

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by DrGreenthumb22, Apr 24, 2012.

  1. Back to our regularly scheduled program...

    If im running my base nutrients at half strength should i run my additives at half strenth??
     

  2. I do everything in half with AN, if that helps.
     
  3. Thanks for the help bro!
     

  4. I concur, as I do the exact same if not a little less...
    Meaning, if AN says to use 604mL, I use 300mL..

    Always remember, nutrient companies are in the business to stay in business, thus take what they say with a grain of salt...
    Great example is the weekly change...
     
  5. [quote name='"jakesterjammin"']

    I concur, as I do the exact same if not a little less...
    Meaning, if AN says to use 604mL, I use 300mL..

    Always remember, nutrient companies are in the business to stay in business, thus take what they say with a grain of salt...
    Great example is the weekly change...[/quote]

    I am planning on changing out every two weeks like i did during veg, do you think it will make a difference if i changed out every week?
     

  6. Personally I don't think it will matter at all...
    This past round I did a little experiment, because I did not have enough nutrients to complete the grow for both systems, 1 system got a change every 2 weeks, the other only got changed twice through the whole flowering cycle..

    I was going to do the whole flowering just topping off and keeping the ppm within 1000 to 1200, but about 30-35 days in I started seeing a Calcium deficiency, so I did a change which cured the issue right away...


    I seen no difference in plant or bud size when all was said and done.. ;)

    With that being said, "personally" I see no problem with a 2 week or even a 3 week change if you watch the plants closely for any deficiencies that may pop up unexpectedly..
     
  7. Im glad to hear that! Thanks for the tips
     
  8. But....
    Please take that (again) with a grain of salt, because it was ONLY that one time, and so there is really NO proof or cold hard evidence to say, "yes you can go 30 days without changing"..

    I'm saying what AN says, "use common sense"... ;)

    If you're on your 2nd week and something just does not look right with the plants, DO NOT wait until you see an issue, because then it's already done damage or slowed growth.. Nip that in the bud and if everything else environmental is on the money, then by process of elimination we must condom the nutrients...


    I wish I had test equipment to confirm this 100%, but I don't so I try to push it to the edge, just to see how far I can go, but on the other hand, by time I start seeing signs of an issue, the plants are already suffering, so really by doing this, I'm limiting the growth potential of the strain...


    If that makes sense... :confused: :D



    :wave:
     
  9. [quote name='"jakesterjammin"']

    But....
    Please take that (again) with a grain of salt, because it was ONLY that one time, and so there is really NO proof or cold hard evidence to say, "yes you can go 30 days without changing"..

    I'm saying what AN says, "use common sense"... ;)

    If you're on your 2nd week and something just does not look right with the plants, DO NOT wait until you see an issue, because then it's already done damage or slowed growth.. Nip that in the bud and if everything else environmental is on the money, then by process of elimination we must condom the nutrients...

    I wish I had test equipment to confirm this 100%, but I don't so I try to push it to the edge, just to see how far I can go, but on the other hand, by time I start seeing signs of an issue, the plants are already suffering, so really by doing this, I'm limiting the growth potential of the strain...

    If that makes sense... :confused: :D

    :wave:[/quote]

    Im going to stick to switching out every other week.
     
  10. #50 zeroshawdow, May 29, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: May 30, 2012
    Uff I couldn't not agree with you more. I mean it !

    I really, really think weekly Rez change is a the Biggest Marketing/Selling tools of "ALL" Nutrients Company, IMOPO ! :D

    This is it what weekly Rez change, means to me
    [​IMG]
     
  11. Now mothers, I will not change until I see signs of a disorder...
    Most times I can go as long as 45 days before I need to completely change the soup...


    My top off and add back is about 3mL (G/M/B) to every 1gal top off..
    In my res, I have it figured to about 8-9mL of base per daily 3gal top off to get back to around 700-800ppm..
    I run the ppm lower on my mothers because I do not want rapid growth from them...


    :wave:
     
  12. Yeah I was changing my reason once a week and actually causes more issues for me. The Ph never had enough time to stay steady even with Ph perfect.
    Just top off with water when your ppm is too High because odds are your plant will absorb water faster.

    But between 4 plants a set of 1ltr sensi a and b can go in less than a month changing a Res every week. (4*5 gal buckets =20gal at full strength thats 16ml a gal, 85ml per 5 and a whopping 340ml a week wasted Out of a 1000ml bottle.

    So as mentioned u should only need to change nutes when you notice traces of deficiencies
     
  13. Should i flush between nutrients changes? If so how long?
     

  14. No need unless you're facing a problem, like salt buildup because you ran a little hot..
    I also assume we're talking flood and drain systems....

    Also with salt buildups you do not get a good flush unless you supply the water/flush from the top down in a flood&drain..
    Meaning you will get the salts out much faster if you pour the water through the hydroton and out, as opposed to flooding..

    Usually I try to hook up a water line for this task when ever I setup a flood and drain system..
    The last grow my mothers were flood and drain, and then the flowering clones were rDWC, so what I did for the mothers was just run a few gallons of water through the buckets of hydroton to flush them...

    This new setup I'm doing, I will have a water line with a shutoff to flush the hydroton...


    Hope that helps... :wave:
     
  15. Thanks helps alot! First night of 12/12
     
  16. [quote name='"jakesterjammin"']
    No need unless you're facing a problem, like salt buildup because you ran a little hot..
    I also assume we're talking flood and drain systems....

    Also with salt buildups you do not get a good flush unless you supply the water/flush from the top down in a flood&drain..
    Meaning you will get the salts out much faster if you pour the water through the hydroton and out, as opposed to flooding..

    Usually I try to hook up a water line for this task when ever I setup a flood and drain system..
    The last grow my mothers were flood and drain, and then the flowering clones were rDWC, so what I did for the mothers was just run a few gallons of water through the buckets of hydroton to flush them...

    This new setup I'm doing, I will have a water line with a shutoff to flush the hydroton...

    Hope that helps... :wave:[/quote]

    How about ph perfect i just whipped up my first mix at 900ppm but the ph is sittin at 5.9 should i adjust it or let it rock out?
     

  17. LMFAO
    So it was not Perfect pH??? Tooooo funny....

    Ya I did, and that's exactly what I ended up with with the non pH Perfect (5.9)..
    It was so solid I could mix a batch and just hit with with 2mL pH down and it would be 5.7, every time....

    But I did mine, AN says nothing about it...
    The plants will make it what they want, so if you have happy plants they will make it a 5.8-5.7... ;)

    But again, yes I did down mine to 5.7...
     
  18. Thanks man i appreciate it alot! I knocked it down a lil bit to 5.7
     

  19. Like I say, if your nutes temps are in spec and ppm is within spec, and they are happy, it will be rock solid..

    I noticed even with AN and all their pH buffers, if my res temps got into the 70, and chamber temps in the 80s, my pH would be 6.0 to a 6.1, drop it back down, and if the temp issue continues, the pH would climb back up... On the other hand if the temps were corrected, the pH would be where I set it...

    And I'm sure you know by now that them plants will change that pH dramatically if they are pissed off... :D


    :wave:
     
  20. [quote name='"jakesterjammin"']
    Like I say, if your nutes temps are in spec and ppm is within spec, and they are happy, it will be rock solid..

    I noticed even with AN and all their pH buffers, if my res temps got into the 70, and chamber temps in the 80s, my pH would be 6.0 to a 6.1, drop it back down, and if the temp issue continues, the pH would climb back up... On the other hand if the temps were corrected, the pH would be where I set it...

    And I'm sure you know by now that them plants will change that pH dramatically if they are pissed off... :D

    :wave:[/quote]

    Yea thats a give away of a issue arising. i use a water chiller and keep temps at 66.
     

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