A guide on advanced BHO making.

Discussion in 'Harvesting and Processing Marijuana' started by stupidstuff, Jan 8, 2013.

  1. #1 stupidstuff, Jan 8, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 9, 2013
    This is the new "Advanced BHO How To" thread. I tried to get it all but I still have a few days to make modifications.

    Remember patients is your friend and SAFETY FIRST!:smoking:

    Thread rules. This is a discussion thread, no flaming or egos allowed. If you have unconfirmed information please state it as such. If you are speaking from experience please say so. Thanks and lets make some BOMB BHO!

    -fire extinguisher!!!!!
    -safety glasses!!!!!!!
    -point and shoot inferred thermometer
    -pyrex dish 8x8, amazon ($16ea)
    -2 large oil slick pads
    -glass extraction tube local shop ($45ea)
    -coffee filters and rubber bands or SS hose clamps
    -power 5x butane, amazon ($30/case of 12)
    -vaccum pump 1.5 cfm ac vac pump goes to -29inhg/14psi from amazon($90) I recomend a 2 stage but they cost more.
    -Vacuum gauge
    -dehydrator amazon
    -electric hot pans for float dishes and the griddle for the vacuum oven, amazon ($40ea)
    -vaccum chamber round pollystirine($90) or converted pressure canning pot.

    The temp you use from start to finish will determin the finishing state. these temps are different for everyone but they are close and are consistent for the vacuum purge method. Shatter is under 110 wax/erl around 120 honey/sap 160+

    The different finishes for the vacuum purge method.
    -Shatter is the least activated and is usually made at temps under 100 but can be achieved up to 120.
    -Hard wax is slightly activated and is achieved at temps up to 140.
    -Honey is the purest and most activated and is achieved at temps up to 190.
    -Budder/hash/honey comb is not something I usually make as they are not stable and degrade fast. Also without expensive testing there is no way to know if there is butane or water in it.

    Temperature: All the temps are taken with a inferred thermometer and are surface temps. Also when using a griddle to warm a vacuum chamber or water bath realize the surface temp of the griddle is going to be higher than inside the chamber. Make regular checks on temp of the extraction being purged, slowly raising the heat, until it is stable where you want it. Also it is best to mark your dial on the griddle where certain temps are.

    Starting notes. Never blast onto anything other than pyrex. Parchment Paper and even the oil slick pads will deposit microscopic silicone particles into your extraction. I would avoid using PP for anything other than storage. There is a new material called the "slick sheet" intended for blasting right onto, and is Teflon based. I have not tried it but intend to.

    This is the original thread and has some good info throughout.

    1. take the room dry trim/bud and dry it out in a dehydrator. Remember you want to run the dehydrator at a lower temp than you plan to finish with. Do this for at least 3 hours or longer. This is the step that makes it so clear and not black or green. If you are making big runs, you will want to use some freezer bags to hold the dehydrated bud as the dehydrator may not hold more than half pound or so like mine.
    This is why you dehydrate. Like the color?

    2. Now load the tubes packing the material as tight as you can with a 1" wooden dowel rod, placing 4 layers of coffee filter over the end and secure it with a rubber band or a stainless steal hose clamp. The tight packing is what provides for a high yield and also helps maintain a higher pressure in the tube keeping the butane a liquid longer. I use a sharp long knife to remove the material after extracting, or I put a piece of bamboo in a drill to empty the tubes once ran. Dont allow them to dry out, empty immediately when they are still iced over. Do this outside.

    3. Set up the electric skillet and float the pyrex dish in it in water. make sure it is floating freely. Chose the temprature you want to use and start extracting. One 300ml can per ounce of material. Do this all at once with no pauses.
    Warning: Never spray into parchment paper or onto an oil slick pad. It causes the Silicone to swell and flake off into your extraction. Science fact here. Only use these items after the initial purge and there is no liquid butane present.

    4. OUTSIDE WITH FIRE EXTINGUISHERS READY!!!! Put on you safety glasses and Extract the cans through the cylinder all at once into the pyrex dish while its floating in the water. My cylinders are glass, 1.5" diameter, and 10 through 14 inches long. I use two float dishes and separate the first two from the third. The third is the clearest and the first two will knock you flat.

    5. Allow to purge in the float dishes until reaction slows or stops.

    6. Scrape the dish and transfer it to parchment paper or an oil slick and put it into vacuum/ pressure canner oven. Dont get stupid and try to put more than an ounce on a flat piece of paper and expect it wont end up off of the paper. Set the griddle at the desired temp using the thermometer to check your extraction at regular intervals to ensure it does not over heat. Once desired temp is reached let it sit until there is no reaction and surface is like glass. NO BUBBLES. The lower the temp the longer it will need to be purged.

    The poor mans vacuum oven. Its a pressure canner converted to hold a vacuum sitting on a presto griddle.

    After you let it sit and heat purge it will look like this.
    Now this looks really nice but what happens under -29inhg? So not as nice as it looked.
    Then after some time at full vacuum and full temperature. Still not done.

    7. Vacuum purging.
    If you want a clean and safe product you will want to vacuum purge. There are many methods and you will want to do some trial and error but this is the general rule. When making honey and the higher temp finishes, always wait to vacuum until there is almost no reaction at your target temperature to avoid boil over. When making wax or shatter at the lower temps dont put to much extraction on a pad and keep it as flat and thin as possible to avoid over puffing. Never use parchment papre for honey oils, only to store hard finishes like waxes and shatters. I degas my chamber in as little as 5 seconds. So I dont think the speed in which you degas is important beyond not damaging your extract with a direct blast of air.

    Temperature: All the temps are taken with a inferred thermometer and are surface temps. Also when using a griddle to warm a vacuum chamber or water bath realize the surface temp of the griddle is going to be higher than inside the chamber. Make regular checks on temp of the extraction being purged, slowly raising the heat, until it is stable where you want it. Also it is best to mark your dial on the griddle where certain temps are.

    Why we vacuum

    Not vacuumed
    After the vacuum.

    2 ounces after a vacuum. Clear enough for ya?

    How about this

    There are other methods for purging that does not use a vacuum chamber or heat. These use alcohol and are known as polar secondary extractions, or winterization. They can also be used to clean up your product by removing any lipids, waxes, fats and other non polar compounds you may not want in your product.
    Here is a link to this process.
    Polishing extracts « Skunk Pharm Research LLC

    For baking information and ideas. You can easilly dissolve your BHO into many different cooking oils. Honeys are mostly decarbed and ready to go.

    Basic instructions for making a clear erl/touchable wax.

    Purge times and temps:
    Water bath: 100f until it starts to puff up, then agitate it some with a fork to pop the bubbles. Do this several times over a ten min period.

    Oven: Transfer extraction from pyrex to a oil slick pad or some parchment paper. Allow to heat to 100f-110f, allow to sit in the oven for about 30 min.

    Vacuum: Warning: make sure the extraction is spread thin on the oil pad to avoid over puffing, also line the inside of the chamber with PP just in case. 100f-110f vacuum to 27 inhg then release, check to ensure it did not over puff or explode. Then vacuum to 29inhg for no more than 30 min at this temperature. It should come out like this.

    Basic instructions for a hash/budder.

    Purge times and temps:
    Water bath: 120f-130f until reaction stops.

    Vacuum Oven: The higher the temp the more buddery it will be. So hash/honeycomb will happen at around 115f and up to 140f for budder. Leave it vacuumed at 29inhg until desired consistency is reached. Can take 24+ hours.

    It should look like this when finished.

    Basic instructions for honey:

    Purge times and temps:
    Water bath: 100f-150f until reaction stops. The temp does not really matter as long as it is not to hot.

    Oven: 160f-180f until no reaction. This can take 24-48 hours.

    Vacuum oven: Vacuum at -29inhg and 160f until no reaction. Must be stable at room temp meaning no new bubbles form after it sits for days.

    It looks like this if you use good material and do it right.

    How to purge BHO without a vacuum setup.

    Simply put a small amount of ISO or everclear in your dish prior to blasting, just enough to coat the bottom of the dish you are using for small runs and more if you are making ounces. This allows the BHO to remain liquid and for the butane to more easily escape without getting trapped. Just make sure you extend your purge times a significant amount to allow the alcohol to evaporate all the way off. The temps you use to purge can be about 20f higher than the vacuum method to achieve the same finishes. Keep it thin or it will still trap alcohol. Also there is diminished flavor with this method. Some report they still get a reaction under vacuuming even after it is fully purged with this method but I still think this is the best non vacuuming method.

    BHO blasted into ISO

    Storing BHO long term.

    Since TCH and the other compounds we want break down when exposed to oxygen you need to have a finish that is as free of gas bubbles as possible. Only the cold wax/erl and honeys seem to keep for extended times. So for storage the rules is the clearer the better. In that regard I feel that honey is the best to store long term as it is the most concentrated and purged of the lot, but a properly made shatter or wax will also keep. So bubbles is bad for storage bubbles=budder if left for a long time.

    Stay dabbed my friends.:bongin:
    • Like Like x 1
  2. hey man i have been some crappy oil lately so i decided to winterize it. i did 15g or oil and 15g of 99% ISO mixed it in a jar and put in in my freezer for about 26 hours. i took it out it had a bunch of crap floating on the bottom. I used non bleached coffee filters to strains it out and it literally took two hours because it dripped out drip by drip. i put it in a pyrex dish and into a hot water bath. probably 140f. or less my hotplate says simmer then 200f and up. i put it half way between them. i let it purge for probably 36 hours. it passes the burn test but it is super harsh. like really harsh. i wasnt even this harsh when i first bought it. i have no clue what i did. it came out really dark as well.

    And the other day i was making some oil of my own and i ran maybe 2 ounces short of a half pound of trimmings. i used 6 cans of power 5x and purged it at 160f in a hotplate bath for 12 hrs and its still harsh, im guessing i really need to invest in a vacuum pump?
  3. Yes vacuuming is a key step, and I would get a vacuum setup ASAP.
  4. i would but i really dont have the money at the moment. anyway to make the harshness go away without being able to vac purge?
  5. Use a temperature of around 100 for another 24 hours. That is all I can think of. :smoking:
  6. Probably part of the problem. In that two hours I'm sure it had a chance to warm back up. I'd recommend setting up your filtering rig in the freezer.
  7. Thanks for some of this info it will definitely come in handy! I have a question that hopefully someone can shine some light on. My question is is t it dangerous to use an electric griddle for initial purge due to the heating element kicking on to bring it up to heat? I'm hoping someone knows more about this as I am wanting to try try this method. Thanks!

  8. I have that same fear, yet I see so many people do just that. If you wanted to play it safe you could pre-heat your pyrex, but I have a feeling the griddle would be safe enough.
  9. This is an idea but how would I heat the dish up while still running cans?
  10. That's just what I'm saying; you don't. Heat it before, OR take the chance and take the griddle outside via an extension cord and keep the dish warm as you spray using said griddle.
  11. I like to keep this on the front page with my other BHO thread. :)
  12. WOW!! Very intervesting thanks for taking the time to post that! This is very helpful infoand hope to use it in the future!!... idk why i do this to myself :confused_2:i havent had honey in probably a year and MY MY that sure looks tasty!!!!:yummy::smoke:
  13. Idk if this is a stupid question but are you saying spray the 5x butane can on an oz of the material? im a little c onfused :smoking:
  14. Thanks for posting this guide. I've been turning out primo shatter thanks to you. I've been pulling my hair out trying to get honeycomb because that's what the patients want. I can get it to wax up but I lose the golden color no matter what temp or time I try. I got all this dark brown wax with a golden center. I dehydrate my material until it stops losing weight, about 2-4 hours depending on strain. Then I extract using my tamisium. I get a clear golden liquid that I water bath purge until it's more of a goo. Then I put it in my vac oven and pull full vac and let it run for 24 hrs. At lower temps I get a giant golden muffin that turns into a bunch of oily bubbles that won't wax. At higher temps i get something close in texture and color to full melt bubble. Any ideas why I'm not getting gold color or honeycomb? I'm using top shelf norcal outdoor sugar trim and popcorn. I've tried several strains and some of my stash chem 91 nugs. Had a friend stop by that makes it at home with his tamisium. he's got a pressure pot on a griddle and it's turns out nice. Couldn't figure it out with my set up. Does elevation have an effect? I'm at 2000 ft. Is it the oven? I check surface temps everytime i open it. At 115 surface I get dark brown honeycomb. Please help.
  15. Lol you guys really can't think of a better way to heat it safely?
    How about this,
    Get 2 Pyrex dishes, one needs to be small enough to fit inside the other.

    1) boil some water on the stove and get your butane equipment ready.

    2) take the big one and pour a small amount of hot but not quite boiling water inside it and place the smaller Pyrex inside the hot water.

    3) spray your butane inside the smaller Pyrex dish while its nice and hot and it will evaporate most of the butane and this will suffice as the initial purge.

    4) at this point you gather all the honey and vacuum purge the absolute shit out of it till it is like sap.

    5) this product can be further polished by being dissolved inside an extremely small amount of ethanol or if you have it pure n-hexane is the absolute best solvent for the cleansing of cannabis concentrates, but that's beside the point, use ethanol to winterize the product and get out the extra things that the butane picked up
  16. #16 stupidstuff, Feb 14, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 14, 2013
    Really? Do you even know who's thread your in? Did you even read the OP? :rolleyes:

    Sorry I just don't like the arrogant tone and the fact that everything you said is already covered in the OP.
  17. #17 Thrash3x6master, Feb 14, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 14, 2013
    I have a few questions about this


    the first time i ever vacced, i used purps and it vacced to complete honeycomb solid in an hour and a half. (awesome..)

    the second time i mixed and matched and got a orange moist crumbly wax..(too much heat?)

    the third time was a gooey but still waxy outcome, very nice to dab. had a small tangy taste (tane?)

    ive done the same exact process to the step every time, however the past few times there has been this darker color that comes right from the tube. It kind of swirls in with the rest and stays throughout the purge. i thought i may have been burning it, but it still produces results and flavor and smell stays for weeks ( if it lasts that long.)

    this last batch, (from the pic.) is very odd. I wouldnt call it budder, Because its sticky and can be rolled up, however it does kind of crumble if its cold or you squeeze it too much. When you do roll it its like dark brown on the outside but when you rip it open its like brighter orangy greenish. it tastes good other than my throat tickles slightly on larger dabs.;l

    I feel like i either have moisture or the vector 5x is too heavy for my 2.5cfm pump to get it all out. My heat bath is also around 110f to 120F depending on how much i have vs strain being used.

    any input on as to why this darkness has arised?
  18. Your either using a strain that's rich in resin or you have the temp slightly too high
    Also another reason could be your bho had leached a lot of chlorophyll during the process of making it and when you heat chlorophyll it gets destroyed and its byproduct is darker orange in color
  19. Anybody notice diffirent effects based on the varous temperatures/ cannabinoid activation? I would assume the honey / sap would have the strongest "body high" with the shatter being more of a non decarbed thc head high if one were to run the same train but with 2 or more different textures. I could be wrong but am interested
  20. Well the consistency doesn't have much to do with potency it's just depends how people prefer their extracts to be prepared like for example people absolutely love honey comb because its so easy to work with and also the fact that honey comb bho is dry the way it is, this is how you can tell you go rid of almost all of the butane in your product.
    They are not actually different just because decarboxylation was a step in the process, in fact decarboxylation just turns inactive medicinal cannabinoids such as CBD and CBA into orally active THC and this step is only required when makin edibles to increase the potency

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