4'x4' coco bed grow

Discussion in 'Coco Coir' started by n0b0dy!sh0m3, Oct 12, 2011.

  1. First pic from 11/19, second pic tonight before they got a trim. Pics 3 and 4 are a sour cream that went straight into the 1.5g pot the around the same time the pineapples were put in their 1L pots back in early October. Havent decided what Im going to do with her. I might go wild and keep vegging and supercropping her to make a bush, put her in the bed under 1000 all by herself in a screen. Shes lookin beastly and I know shes hungry.
     

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  2. What's up, just wanted to ask what is your water ph to? Also what was the ph of the return water?( run off from the bottom)
     
  3. Sometimes I ph sometimes I don't, 5.8 if I do. Never checked runoff. thats not how you check coco ph. Here are the ladies, something like 17 days into flower. lights cut on before i could get a pic from a different angle, but theyve grown several inches since the last pic update. starting to show a calcium deficiency, supplementing with cal mag and will keep with a foliar spray until week 3 of flowering finishes out, then no more
     

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  4. whats on top of your coco? kitty liter? lol dia
     
  5. haha nah, 5cuft of coco with 4cuft of perlite mixed in, then 4cuft of perlite spread across the top. i like the reflectivity of it and it doesnt hold moisture like the coco, so i dont have massive amounts of exposed wet coco. ikl either scoop it off when i flush/reuse or ill say fuck it and mix it all in. havent decided if im going to do another bed or do a handful of 7 or 10 gallon smart pots.
     
  6. Today is 3 weeks officially (I think). Decided to break out the real camera instead of my phone. She's starting to get frosty.
     

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  7. looking good
     
  8. Day 25 (or there abouts). Starting to close in the gaps, in another week or so they should start fattening up. Removed an ass ton of fan leaves, growing like weeds, seems like Ive taken off just as must plant matter as they've grown.

    Next project will be the DNA sour cream Ive been vegging/bonsai pruning for the last 6+ weeks. Shes in a 1.5gal container now. In the coming week Ill transplant her into a low wide (12"x18"x8" or something like it) slack 10gal container to veg for the last few weeks of the pineapples flower cycle. Then Ill flip both lights back horizontal, put her in a 4x4 bed to herself and spread her out wide. Have to feed her later today, Ill try to remember to get a shot of her.
     

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  9. :wave: pain in the ass to get to the back aint it, bet ur arms gets all sticky :D
     
  10. Actually between the bifold swing open doors and the 2' door way and work space, it aint to bad, i can reach 6 of the 8 straight forward, its the 2 on the sides that get me sticky reaching in. Maybe 6 plants in a hexagon pattern would have been better. Nice frost, a little disappointed in the stem structuee, a littke thin from the sulphur deficiency. The sour cream in the 1.5g has a nice thick stem, cant wait ti get her in here next.
     
  11. i put my best ones to the back so i know i probably wont have to mess with em to bad.
    but when i do work in the back i put in a long sleeve shirt :)
     
  12. #72 ForbinsAscent, Dec 19, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 19, 2011
    OMRI ListedMycoGrow™ For Lawns
    MycoGrow™ For Lawns contains spores of 4 different species of endomycorrhizal fungi, plus additional beneficial organisms for control of lawn-disease-related pathogens. Recommended application rate for lawns is 1.5–2 pounds per 1000 square feet. Can be applied during lawn installation or aeration. Sold in one pound increments.
    HMLW1P $19.95 Buy
    Note: this product cannot be shipped to Hawaii.
    I hope you rinsed the perlite so particles aren't flying around in the air?

    stuff is hazardous tending to go airborne.

    just thought i'd drop a line regarding Potanicare's rip off product zho

    in case you're interested in spending 65$ less on 1 Lb next time, this website has the same exact product- their MycoGrow for lawns- 1 lb for 20 instead of 85.

    And notice it also contains additional beneficial microbe ingrediants those hydroponic crooks skimped on for ya.

    Contains concentrated spore mass of the following:
    Endomycorrhizal fungi \tGlomus intraradices, Glomus mosseae, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus etunicatum
    Trichoderma \tTrichoderma harzianum, Trichoderma konigii
    Other Ingredients \tKelp, humic and fulvic acids, vitamins, and amino acids

    look, I know how poorly my messages are received, but I used to be a bottle grower just like you. One day I decided fuck this constant turmoil, and sold arouns $240 worth of bottles on the CL for around 160$ like cake. Why? the ingredients for a wholesome trouble free organic grow cost next to nothing, and the people the product comes from aren't a bunch of salesmen and profiteers. it took me a few years to rethink this.

    on another note, you can return it to the store too. Most honest agri' shops will respect your statement they are sub-par products not suitable for farming, and just give you your money back, with hopes you won't sue them for the loss of crop quality
     
  13. #73 colafarmer, Dec 19, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 19, 2011
    Hey man nothing wrong with growing organics and I recommend it 100%...I think most growers use synthetic fertilizers and pre mixed soils because it's just a lot easier than building a soil from scratch which takes a month or so to cook to establish a micro herd.

    Most of these growers are growing out of their closets and don't want the mess and odor of making teas, brews etc, which true organics is all about anyways. I mean you can use organic fertilizer but, your just kidding yourself unless you feeding the soil and letting the microbes feed through the roots.

    In real world, wheather one grows organic, or with chemical's the final quality and yield of the MJ has a lot to do with the environment, a keen eye and the care and attention one gives to their crop...

    There are a lot of synthetic nutrients out there without all the hype and big prices like AN. Dyna Grow, for one is a little heard of fertilizer that is easy to use and dose amazing things and I have no problem with Botainicare...;)

    So the consenus is you don't need to grow organic's to get some good bud, but has a lot of benefits, as far as I'm concerned.
    There is a learning curve with organics you have to get past before you understand the process and relay that to your crop.

    As for using myco it dose help in veg before all the chemical's are added which deplete and kill the good bacteria over time. For myco to work as intended you need to feed the soil, so the herd can eat and do their number through the roots.

    I use Xtreme Gardening at transplant and supp my coco with a blend of EWC, kelp, humus and Mycorrhizal Fungi that are established and see a prominent difference while in veg.
    Probably one of the best Mycorrhizal products is from BioAG, but the Xtreme works with my method.

    I commend you on your dedication to growing organic :wave: and would hope that others get interested, because it is the best for the environment and with rising cost of chemicals will probably be the wave in the near future....But for some it's the easiest path to get from here to...:smoke:
    Cheer's....



    Sweetestbreeze, your grow looks good bud...Keep up the good work... :)
     
  14. Luckily I only spent $26 on the small bag of the ZHO, as for the perlite, no I didnt rinse it, but after reading the bag with the warning for silicosis (or something like it) I made sure to wear gloves and a dust mask, with the fans turned off to keep the disturbances to a minimum, and frequent breaks.

    Organics is my ultimate goal (atleast as far as personal stash is concerned). I just converted an old fish tank into a worm composter using some excess coco I had laying around and a tub of worms from the local box store, although they're the right kind for composting, my numbers are severely lacking. I think my amount of food waste weekly will over run a vermicomposter, so as soon as it starts warming up again, Ill be starting a pile outside.

    Just placed an order for about 20 different heirloom veggies and herbs, the plan is to use the coco/perlite for one (maybe two) more grows then Ill split it between two 4'x4' raised garden beds outside, using compost from several sources to fill the rest in (aiming for at least 50% of my bed to be compost).

    Organic is definitely the way to go, and my ultimate goal, but in the mean time, proven synthetics is all I have to rely on.
     
  15. As far as the aquarium, it should work but i'd switch them to a sterilite when they start gaining more weight and size. Block the sides worms hate light. check out the thread 'vermicompost production bins' in organic. the flow through bin is based on dan holcombe's design and puts out several CF per month of finished castings when in full swing. I am also planning my first veggie garden outdoor. Looking to put the money toward a cold frame, compost tumbler (i forage), the flow thru bin, and of course veggie starts from where ''it's'' at in oregon. I'm going to forego much of the early season for the sake of getting all this in place, and planting cover crops along these lines....
     
  16. Yea the aquarium was a spur of the moment thing, the wife and i have been talking about recycling and composting, decided we were done talking it was time to start doing. It was over ran with algae, I drained it and scraped the sides and left it to dry, then dumped in about 4" of coco (it does have a little perlite) on top of about 3" of gravel for drainage. A couple of shredded cannabis leaves and some coffee grinds with about 30 euro night crawlers. I also planted 2 dwarf sunflowers and spread some basil seed. So its more like a mini eco system than a worm composter. Ive been collecting the kitchen scraps, and theres a big hole out back from the dogs, thinking i may start a trench style compost pile in it. I think, depending on the type of legume, the nitrogen fixation wont benificial until the following grow cycle in the particular plot. Atleast i think thats the case with the green beans im planning on growing.
     
  17. Flower day 34, ladies are starting to pack on the frost for christmas!!
    Last picture is the sour cream. Transplanted into a coco/hydroton mix, had it sitting around from bubble buckets and didn't want to buy any more perlite. Currently shes about 2' tall (from soil surface) and has a 2'x2' canopy. Shes got about 20+ tips all competing for top status. I've been pinching or cutting back the tallest tops this entire time to keep her short and bushy. Hoping she can fill out the new container in the next 3-4 weeks, then into the bed.

    Soaking a TGA Dairy Queen right now, since its the only regular seed I have, Im going to make (him)her a mother plant, and graft on my other 5 or 6 strains, using the cuttings as a result of the graft as clones to sex. Multiple moms is a real pain, hoping this will clear up some space in my veg cabinet.
     

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  18. #78 hope2toke, Dec 24, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 24, 2011
    very interesting setup - looks time tested. I don't know why legumes would not beneficial? the seed is very cheap, I think it's worth trying to sprout. if the soil health is up to par it should be smooth rolling.

    have you considered using lava rock? it is more porous than perlite should be cheap and it is adds iron. you'll have better luck with lava rock than gravel in your compost pit as well, as far as aeration. thought id mention about worms- they dont like excess moisture or dryness. if you dry your food scraps out thoroughly it will go a long way towards your worms health, in addition to feeding them grains occasionally. but im not sure if you already to that?
     
  19. Something like a week before the chop. Gonna be a looooong week. Cant wait to get these out and the next girl in. Shes turned into a nice bush, and her roots are filling out the container real nice. Game plan for her: Transplant into bed ASAP, and the tops will all be tied down. Without a fan blowing on her a large portion of the top is flexible enough to be able to train. Veg for a week or maybe 2, depends on how she starts filling out the space. She is pretty damn big, so it will probably be a week just to adjust to her environment then flower time.


    hope2toke, thanks for the links, the irrigation free raised beds are definitely on the radar, seems such a simple idea that would have a huge impact.
     

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