Here's another update.... some specs before I show you photos, 400w MH used for veg, switched to 400w HPS for flowering two days ago. Advanced Nutrients 3-part Grow, Micro & Bloom. Advanced Nutrients B-52 Advanced Floriculture Bloom "Roots" Soon to add Big Bud and Sensi Zym next week This is 4weeks of veg. Strain: Blueberry X Sour Diesel (so they say) I think next run I'm going to go with a top feed 4-bucket RDWC SCROG setup. Now considering this is my first run, I think I'm kicking some major ass. For as much growth as I have for only 4 weeks of veg time I'm only getting a little burn here and there, maybe a leaf or two, maybe three. That one shot of the close up of a leaf, sorry about the quality but there are a bunch of little brown spots with a slight yellow ring around the browning. I'm thinking this is some kind of burn, as I just went from a 10-10-1 of NPK ratio to a 1-1-2 ratio of NPK. PPM is aprox. 850 PH fluctuation never gets below 5.6, swings up to about 6.5 every 5-6 hours. So I've been letting it swing and stay at 6.5 for a day every other day, then I keep it to 5.6 consistant for a few more days. So for every 4 days of 5.6 I let it swing for about 2 days every other day or so.
For sure.. Doing that tomorow... What r ur thoughts on cutting off lower canopy branches and leaves dyring fliwering.. If one would do so at what point and how.much to cut??
kushmanno I am seeing bare hands in there and along with the leaf twisting, blistering, and wrinkles. I'm not going to try to jump the gun here but have you read up on TMV and the many strains of it? I think you may have a issue. But if you manage your environment and nutes perfectly you can have a decent harvest. It cant kill the plant but the virus cause reduced time to ripening, reduced vigor, cause signs of stress or deficiency's. Also some strains are more resilient to it then others and you may not even notice but usually for most cannabis plants the problems start once they go into flower. A couple Aspirin can increase the plants rna(immune system) and make it more tolerant to the virus but it is transferable just by touch of any object, lives for 50+yrs on objects. I'm getting too much typing going on so if you want more info on it read all these links. What is is, how to deal with it. Tobacco Mosaic Virus VIRUS DISEASES OF GREENHOUSE TOMATO AND THEIR MANAGEMENT identifying chart Tomato Disease Identification Key
Now that's fucked up because I can recall countless times i've smoked a cig and gone and fucked around with them... wow this is a new one for me
Well good news for you is its usually not caused from cigs but more so raw cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes or other raw fruits and veggies (not sure what). It is said to affect over 250 types of plants and anything it infects or touches can transfer it. Tobacco is also a big culprit but I remember reading that most cigs tobacco are flu cures (heated and cooled multiple times) and that process is said to not contain tmv. But rolling, pipe tobacco, and probably the natural blunt leafs contain it. Its a lot to read but if you manage decent harvest with tmv or any other of the other strains of M.V then once you get it all cleaned up you will be chillen like a villain. (metaphorically speaking of course)
well nothing i can do about it now, if it's even there which i dont think it is bizie what do you think about trimming / cutting off lower branches and leaves not exposed to the great direct lumens of the bulb? bcuz i see alot of harvests and soon to be harvested bushes with just some big fan leaves and colas exposed.......... ????
Basic rule of thumb is to remove the bottom 1/4 of the plant for me. Also on the tmv its often with tolerant strains you would not notice it with out a lab test. I guarantee you will make a harvest but if you have the virus it will take longer, you will have flower and leaf deformations or mutations, and unusual signs of stress. Most people that have it don't know they do. Your leaves are wrinkling, twisting, blistering, and spotting just like some symptoms said on the linked chart. You do see that right? Okay just making sure. Wait till you go into flower for the biggest signs. Denial in the worst of anyone problems imho. Oh and I 2 would flower it out but wipe the room down and disinfect anything it touches before you touch any other plant to that item 1:10 bleach solution soaked for 10 mins will kill it. Dipping in bleach WONT. One love. Don't shoot the messenger.
anything that i know wont be atleast a 3 gram nug i cut off because I cant "give" people Shake. and it seems to make my yield increase by atleast 10%
Currently how i train my plants. Just to give you a idea i dont like plants that look like christmas trees too annoying. And i always cut off leaves blocking lower growth which leads to more tops. These are 4 1/2 week old clones cheese candy and purple wreck using AN
Yeah I'm not too happy with this strain so far... yes it's my first DWC but I know good genetics when I see them and these are not 100% to my liking. So yes bizie a good sterilization is in order after we cut these, but another 6-9 weeks left to go so no rush, nothing I can do about it now. Could be tmv, who knows. I have been noticing weird deformations since day one. If I disregard all the spots, burns and other results of me figuring out a good nutrient recipe and ppm there is still the weird growth to be accounted for. I can't wait to get some new genetics in the room. DNA Genetics and Serious Seeds are in order next season for some AK-47, Bubblegum or Jack Herrer.
Don't feel bad man, I have it also. If you looked in my flower room most people wouldn't be able to tell. I still produce quality bud but only with certain strains. I have been hanging on to the same P.E for over 5yrs now. Before I knew about m.v I think somewhere along the line I infected them with my hands, most likely after cutting potatoes. I'm in the process of slowly throwing all my old plants out and seeding fresh. Clones in the garbage and anything vegged out is going into flower while my new seeds veg. Its a common thing like herpes or warts on people the sucky thing is that it makes your plant look ugly just like our shitty do nothing to you but piss you off virus. Some strains that have a strong immunity you wont even notice just like there's a bunch of people that have warts(HPV) or herpes (HHV) and will never know because there immune system is strong enough to suppress the physical appearance of the virus. The problem is that those strains infect the ones that cant take it. So you either A: grow strains that are tolerable to it or B: get rid of it. I would agree that your plants look happier though and it's obvious you're catching on, so that's good.
Yeah I tied them down pretty good the other day and it opened up the center of the buckets so all those little leaves and branches are started to fill out, so ill keep them tied for a few more weeks. One thing I noticed recently since I switched my N-P-K ratios from the 10-10-1 prior to flowering to 1-1-1, the ppm is staying quite stable @ about 5.6-5.9 and ppms not going down as fast as they have been, so my first thought is that this happens during the first stages of flowering? aka they're not eating as much as they were last week..... or are they just not reacting to the increase in the K element as I expected? hmmmmm
na its normal for the first week of flower or so until they fully transition that they wont be eating much. I use to always burn my plants trying to start flower at the manufactures recommended 1200ppm. Start flower @ 500ppm then record and adjust as it eats or drinks. Also imo different npk ratio will have little effect of how the plan eats from the solution. Its not like when switching from 1-1-1 to a 1-3-2 or something of the sort will boost the plants into flower because that's not true. Changing the npk will only keep the plant happy, as in flower it would eat more p&k and you wouldn't want the plant to deplete the pk to fast leaving to much nitrogen and then your plants will be mad. Some people would argue and even start a high pk ratio before switching into flower. Some believe the plant is going to transition faster but the only thing that makes the plant flower is the hormone produced in the dark period and if you want to throw them in flower fast I hear 24 hr darkness before 12/12 helps but I don't do it as I feel for me going from my 24hr light clone room to 24hr dark then to 12/12 is just to much stress on them. One thing to throw plants into flower faster and proven to do so is sea kelp. It increases hormones in the plant and when used right it can be very helpful. Easy way to tell is on a.n bud ignitor says contains sea kelp and that's the only thing they sell that has kelp 'bud ignitor' to help initiate flower. Boy do they know how to market their stuff!! Anything containing sea kelp will have the same effect as the $90 liter of bud ignitor.
well I just changed the buckets for a finishing ppm of 1040 give or take a few. So 5 days ago I changed the water, with a ppm of 850. 5 days of feeding under 12/12 400w hps the ppm was 500-510 today before i changed the water. so they aprox.400-420 ppm worth of nutes in 5 days. im sure this big jump from 1000 and the decreased distance of the light an inch will hold up.
1000 ppm should be good. Sounds like you have a strong strain that you can push. In peak bloom I go as high as 1200ppm with the strong strains before they start using more water then nutes. Watch that one though.
Yes it has been resilliant. They can def. take a kick when their down but get right back up swinging Took a few cuttings before I switched 12/12 and put them in the ziplocks, has only been 3 days and I have roots about half a CM but its still good I dont think I'm going RDWC next run, instead buying an RO machine so changing water will be a breeze!
Nice im getting r o filter next week hooking it up to a floater valve in my res and a drain tube. Gonna be a breeze right now i carry buckets from my sink with a filter lolol
yeah im all set with the carrying of the buckets. i only have 2 buckets and its a pain in the ass. RO machine for $150 by AgroMax