3gal Cloth Pot + No-Till?

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by Green_Manotaur, May 25, 2012.

  1. Hey guys,

    I am just wrapping up harvest from my 2nd grow. I would really like to re-cycle my soil for the next go-around. The girls did great this time and I am very happy with my soil mix - local, organic nursery...LD endorsed.

    I have 8 3gal cloth pots. Could I use the no-till method? Is there a size limitation? I would be cutting the stalk out, planting the little ones, and adding a blend of meals, EWC, and other goodies as a top dress.

    The other option is to put all the soil into a large tub, let the roots break down, add an AACT, and wait a month.

    Thanks!
    GM
     
  2. Do the large tub thing, 3 gal is a bit on the small side and .......

    I did a no till thing in a 20-25 gal container. All my 5 gal containers went into a large tub, amended and cooked.

    YMMV

    Wet
     
  3. except that tubs go anaerobic unless you ruin them by drilling enough holes for oxygen to the roots. Although plastic is the sorce of all evil in the first place. can't hurt it by drilling eh.... there are also the unknown toxins in the plastics dye to ponder
     
  4. So, what do you think, h2t? I may message Stankie as well unless he stops by.
     
  5. Hey green, are you transplanting mature plants into your no-till containers or will you be sprouting seeds or planting clones into your 3g smarts?

    Go back to your original recipe in your mix and kinda sorta add up everything you put in there. I think some of us would agree that "we" (some of us - perhaps just me) over fertilize with our mix and in that sense you might be golden in that all 15+ elements the plant requires will be there in abundance in your no-till pots. But if not, then you'll need to add some things. So, the Q you will have to answer is "how much" of "what" and "when". I would suspect that whatever P and possibly K, and even possibly the Ca might be somehow "bound up" such that even if in sufficient qty the elements might not be in the correct ionic form to be taken up. So, do you chase that "problem" if it arises and if you do do you have a plan for correcting any "deficiencies"?

    I am a BIG fan of no-till outdoors in a garden but I don't have any experience with it in a container. Chunk is the only one I know for sure that has tried/continues to use no-till. IDK why he does this. I don't understand why anyone does this with a container. I've kinda sorta read comments about "bacteria populations and mycellium strands" being maintained intact but IDK about all that. And of course I mean no disrespect to the Chunkmeister. But, if there are "one billion bacteria in a tsp of good quality organic soil", how many bacteria are in a 3g container of good quality organic soil - 2.5 trillion (using simple math). Seems to me there are plenty of bacteria to go around. As you indicated perhaps stankie does the same and he'll have a better answer for you.

    All I will say about your idea is.... good luck with it. I don't mean to sound like I'm poo-poo'ing the idea. Proof is in the pictures IMO. If it were me I'd dump all 8 containers in the pool, chop/chop, and then start anew with a portion of your old soil, some new soil, and a fresh batch of nutrient mix erring on the side of caution in order to not "too much" of any single thing. But that's just me and I usually swim against the stream in most instances. As YGF so eloquently puts it, "some people just have to pee on the fence". That would be me.

    Let us know - with pictures and details - how your journey turns out. Great cannabis fortune your way :)
     
  6. #6 hope2toke, May 26, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: May 26, 2012
    is the soil mix include minerals and meals? I know they have a super worm compost and various NPK fertilizer packs, you might even ask them: I noticed the no-till advantage seems to be when there is -sufficient moisture -sufficient mineral. your result depends -as possom says- on your kind of soil and the duration of the plants in that pot. then there are other things like fungus and worms in the soil, their chances of survival may be slightly greater in a 30 gallon insead of a 3 gallon...

    of course going in to the humus, gung-ho with your hands, will mess the soil up good will break the fungal strands, kill a few worms, decrease moisture retension, but it's nothing a few rains and topdressing meals won't fix up IMO.
     
  7. #7 Green_Manotaur, May 27, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: May 27, 2012
    Thank you for the advice, Possum.

    H2T...the soil is very complete. The place, Black Lake Organics, specializes in mineral augmentation. Even their worm castings are enhanced with minerals. Additionally, I bought a "recharge" pack, meant for mixing and cooking spent soil. However, I want to keep the soil in the pots they are in and just top dress with the nutrient/mineral pack and EWC, if advisable.

    EDIT: When I get home, I will post the list of components.
     
  8. #8 Green_Manotaur, May 28, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: May 28, 2012
    Medicine Man Organics: Media Nutrient Charge

    Mineralized Worm Castings, mycorrhizae, archeobacteria, fishbone meal, fishmeal, seabird guano, bat guano, rock phosphate, kelp meal, lime, dolomite, langbeinite, sulfate of potash, glacial rock dust, Azomite, volcanic rock dust, lignite, copper sulfate, zinc sulfate, and magnesium sulfate.

    They test everything thoroughly tor proper levels. Generally this 5 lb bag is added to a 10 gal bag of peat/pumice (promix #2 I believe) but I will either recharge my medium with it or ideally, no till and topdress.
     
  9. I would try top dressing after the chop, then keeping pots moist and letting them sit out for 2 cylces. Of course, that would require three times the pots and a lot of space for resting pots.

    Personally, I soak root-balls with Gil Carandang's BIM, wrap them up airtight, let them sit for a month, then mix that into my main soil stash and let it chill for a couple of weeks.
     
  10. Thanks Hap, but I would indeed need more space than I have. For now, I am keeeping the pots moist while I try to make a decision.

    I would not be planting anything into the pots for another couple of weeks at least. So, what I may try is:

    1. Make an AACT, water the empty pots with it. Continue to rotate between nutrient teas, water, and AACTs to keep moist.
    2. Get my clones/seeds to a plant-able size.
    3. Cut the stalks, insert the clones/sprouts - I figure leaving them in tact until now encourages activity in the soil.
    4. Top dress with meals, minerals, and EWCs.
    5. Hope it works.

    I am basing this mostly on the excellent results Stankie had using similar methods. I can never seem to find the original instructional post, but here are some of the results of the chop, plant, top-dress, water method he uses: http://forum.grasscity.com/organic-grow-journals/658088-stankies-organics-207.html

    Thanks,
    GM
     
  11. Go for it already.:hello:
     
  12. Black Lake Organics?

    You're covered........
     
  13. Thanks! GC makes me smile. :)

    Also, I am going to add white clover as a living mulch. Can't go wrong, right?
     
  14. #14 Stankie, May 28, 2012
    Last edited: May 28, 2012
    This is a pic I recently took of a blueberry clone, about a week ago. It is in a no-till #5 smartpot with some white clover as a living mulch. I bought the clone from the dispensary, carefully knocked off as much as their soil as I could as delicate as I could, sprinkled with myco powder, then put into the small hole I made with a garden trowel. I dressed my organic goodies/nutes on top of the soil and covered that with some ewc. Just watered and went. The "list of goodies" was comfrey, nettle, horse tail, kelp, alfalfa, neem, karanja, some crustacean powder, and a little glacial rock dust covered with my home-scraped vermicompost.

    [​IMG]

    The last bud I harvested from this was fairly potent. I used this pot. I think I have grown 2 or maybe 3 harvested plants since making this pot. First harvest of this blueberry, but good for making eating oil especially. I would post pics, but my hard drive crashed. Everything from this time last year until a few weeks ago is gone. I am continuing with no-till living mulch. I may start a journal soon, but have been having some issues with some newly mixed soil and starting seeds in that newly mixed soil, so. I may end up starting seeds right in #5 smart pots. I think it would work just fine.

    Will this all work in #3 smart pots? . . . . . Let us know.
     
  15. Stankie,

    Thank you for your advice and sorry about your hard drive crash. Have you tried any of the data recovery tools? If not, PM me and I can give you more details.

    For your "goodies", did you have a specific amount or just use the remaining space? I currently have the nutrient re-charge pack I listed above plus more EWCs, comfrey, nettle, kelp, and alfalfa. Also, did you top dress right on top of the growing clover? It looks like you left a ring of clover un-touched.

    I will certainly be taking pictures this go around.
     
  16. I put a cup or so of the mixture in the center. The center of the pot doesn't actually have any growing clover. The clover makes a ring around the edge basically. I had just cut the taller clover and piled it on top before I took that pic.
     
  17. Thank you again, this is all very helpful. I'm debating whether or not to sow the seed directly or use the rapid rooters I have for clones.
     

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