ever here of a oil catch can if so do you think itll help the blowby its coming out of the dipstick under hard acceleration......mabey a catchcan with a locking dipstick?????
If the blow by is so strong that it pushes the dipstick, your rings are probably gone. Compression check it all cylinders. A catch can is only for catching oil thats pulled from a lot of vacuum or pushed out by boost. If a naturally aspirated car pops out the dipstick, you have other issues. Make sure your pcv works good too.
Definitely sounds like a compression issue to me but if you don't feel like rebuilding I definitely recommend a 350 performance crate motor
thanks guys just needed some confirmation this is what my garage told me was well. gotta wait till next year till some $$$$$$$ frees up car is. mint other then that.......parked it a while ago its a shame to have to limp it around town but it is nice just to cruise in......forget about pulling out into traffic hard though unless I want to put on a smoke show without burning the tires lol.........
If your competent do a rebuild. Wont be overly expensive. Just really depends on condition of crank (scoring) and just have a peak at how much of a groove is left on top of cylinders where the rings top out at. I seen some beautiful cars that were babied all their life go from a mint compression test to disaster in only a few weeks after someone with a heavy foot caused multiple ring failurs lol. I guess that heavy footed use could cause just enough (stretch) to cause rings to mash the old grooves n fail? Anyway i got off topic (super stoned ATM) But yeah just refresh it if its a otherwise a solid engine. Do the valve stem seals too. Dont cheap out on a kit. I got lucky n landed a 350 vortec for my suburban when factory engine failed with 348 000 kms on it. Donor only had 116 000 kms i was pumped when i seen odometer lol
thanks for your input I did decide to rebuild current engine.... looked Ito what it would be to drop in a ls.....a pro shop told me 20,000.00 but this is with correct harness and exhaust. sounded to much for me a good shop I trust told me around 2000 to rebuild 18000 cheaper............nicce truck I have a 95 Yukon 2 door as my daily driver
I don't really care for reman engines or crate engines , they are loaded with used parts and or cheap parts . You can take your engine out and take the engine to a machine shop who does heads and bores blocks . Have them rebuild your engine . Tell them you want them to make you a long block out of your own engine ..
Personally I would go with a forged stroker kit if rebuilding. The rotating assembly can be had for less than 1k and you shouldn't have that much more labor cost just for going to a slightly larger bore. Even if you don't plan to go crazy on power you could always bump up the compression a bit from stock and enjoy a decent gain.
The cheap way to get back on the road is to buy a rebuilt short block that is just the lower end of the engine and simply bolt all of your parts back onto it with new gaskets, new bolts where you need them, ect. If you do that you can later on just do a valve rebuilt for not that much and you'll basically have a new engine for a lot less cost. It's $1,300 for one from summit but if you looked around you might be able to beat that price significantly. ATK High Performance Chevy 350 Street Performer Short Blocks SP03