Subtitle: How to Pimp Out Your Filing Cabinet, With Mr. Steakbomb - Episode 4 Parts list @ post 134 I'm going to be building a new light fixture for my 2x4 grow cabinet in the coming weeks. I currently have a 3*QB288v1 fixture in my cab. It has done me well, but I'm looking to build something slightly more optimized for the space, as well as providing some of these extra abilities for Emerson effect (photosynthesis boost) and far red initiation (longer lights on during bloom). Over in my journal I've been cooking this up for a few days. Steakbomb's Silo Current thought process is to use 3*QB288v2 boards on individual heatsinks, spaced so they will be perfectly centered over each screen in my cab. I would like to power these with a 320H-1400B so I can dim them. For the red stuff, I seem to have a few options. One would be the RapidLED emerson boards along the two edges of the fixture, and figuring out how to have the two channels timed separely via a controller. I'm researching now to see if I can use a coralux controller to manage the whole light, but I'm not sure that plan will work... The other option would be HLG QB11s or QB18s powered off the same driver (via a stepdown) as the 288s, and then using a pair of the RapidLED far red pucks in the space between. I would plan to put a switch inline with the stepdown so I could shut off the deep red / emerson boards until stretch ends. In this case I could us a Titan Apollo 18 timer to manage keeping white/red on for 13.25hrs and far red on for 13.5hrs pretty easily. Definitely still got some planning to do, and I'd certainly appreciate any input from the QB gurus out here - especially around strategies for powering and managing the schedule as efficiently as possible!
That’ll be a badass light. I believe OR grower was experimenting with far reds and deep reds I’d see if he chimes in. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
Just placed my order for a trio of QB288v2s in 3000k with Slate 2 heatsinks. Still a lot to figure out, but at least the parts I *know* I'm using are on order...
I initially was looking at building with deep and far reds but decided against it until I saw some guys on here with finished fries using them to see if it’d be worth it. I’ll be subbed up if you start a journal. I’m still debating I left room on my build for them to add later if it proves to be worth it! Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
My journal is linked in the first post - you can see the massive pile of Crimea Blue I just finished, or the autos that I have on the brink of death at the moment lol I hope to get this light built in time to be used with the Liberty Haze plant I'm going to clone the hell out of soon...
Awesome I’ll take look! I’m subbed here anyway to see what the QB Gurus say! Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum
idk... i’d change the thread title back to: How to Pimp Out Your Filing Cabinet, With Mr. Steakbomb - Episode 4....
I'm curious what specific changes made up episodes 1-3 lol The good news is, if this new light is good, I can just build a 2nd one for a tent. Edit - it's the subtitle now lol
Episode 0 - How to buy an upgradable filing cabinet for an outrageous pice, with my bud og Episode 1 - How to blow air through an expensive upgradeable file cabinet (eufc), with my bud og Episode 2 - How to pump water through an eufc Episode 3 - Mr. Steakbomb’s first step into the white light, in an eufc
Does anyone on the forum own QB18s? It looks like they may accept either a barrel-style power connection -or- wiring off a driver/stepdown... is that right?
For 3 qb288's in a 2x4.. You'd want about 300 watts total. @ 1400mA each board they are 67 watts per board. That's only 200 watts. I would get at least the 1750mA version of that 320h driver. Then you'd have the headroom to get at least 84 watts per board. That would put you in the 252 watt range. That would probably be good. You almost may as well buy the 2100b because then you could run the driver dimmed down from max output and it would run cooler. At 2100mA you're 102 watts per board for a max capacity of 306 total. The 320h-c2100b has plenty of voltage headroom for 3 qb288 boards in series.
Thst’s what i have, cept i bot mine in qb 35 kit...my gear is in storage, but i may have a pic of those super delicate sockets!!!!
Right - I derped - the 2100 is the driver of choice. I have a 1750A on my current light and it has done the job well... Do you think I could use a stepdown to feed 2 qb18s off the same driver as the 288s? Ideally I want to do that and put in a kill switch like this: https://amzn.to/2EmluTB So I can turn off the emersons during veg & stretch but not have to use an extra plug to enable them... I think the 2100B would be preferable to the 1750B since it would also (hopefully) drive the reds when needed.
Rapidled has a good easy mode dimmer pot for those B series drivers, just splice it on the dimmer leads on the driver. Cased Potentiometer with Knob