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03 Infiniti G35 Sedan

Discussion in 'Planes, Trains & Automobiles' started by StickyStick, Sep 19, 2013.

  1. Hopefully somebody on here can help.  I have an 03 Infiniti G35 sedan that I've added an aftermarket amp and subs with (250w rms rockford am with 2 12" P1s).  The subs/amp sounded great when I had them in my truck.  I have read quite a bit about adding aftermarket subs/amp to the stock head unit and tied everything together.  The amp powers on no problem and the subs work as well.  The only problem is that they are no where near as loud as they were when I had them in my truck.  I've put the LOC off the + and - that were running to the sub (as advised), and I'm wondering if it has something to do with that.  If not then what might the issue be?  I'm wondering if there is some sort of inhibitor (I can't remember the proper term) that only lets the amp give a certain amount of power to the subs.  The only thing that I could think of that would do this would be where its spliced into the stock amp which is needed for the door speakers.
    Any advice?

  2. That was helpful
  3. When the subs were in your trunk was there a divider?

    I'm guessing in the infiniti its in the trunk and the seats are muffling the bass
  4. I'm very medicated
  5. #6 StickyStick, Sep 19, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 19, 2013
    Its not that the seats are muffling the bass, even with the trunk open they just aren't sounding like the used to.  Its a huge difference in the volume.  I've checked the gain on the amp thinking that could be the issue.  I feel like there is a resistance somewhere but I can't think of any place it would happen.  The only place where the aftermarket parts tie into the stock parts are with the line out converter and the remote power.
    I've read a lot about installing aftermarket audio equipment with the stock HU and I've never heard anybody complain about the sound being quiet.
  6. re-do it like this...
  7. How exactly are they hooked up now?  Sorry if I missed that part.
  8. #9 StickyStick, Sep 19, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 19, 2013
    Basically, line out converter to the + and - off the sub (which gets it power from the amp) and then the remote start to the remote start of the amp.  Leaving the sub unplugged.
  9. Don't really know what I'm talking about.  Where is the line out converter hooked into (where is it getting the signal) and shouldn't it be LOC -> Amp -> Subwoofers
  10. The Bose amp give power directly to the Bose sub.  The LOC is getting its signal from the lines that go to the Bose sub. 
  11. Sticky is right. Your best bet is to gut the system and start from scratch. Use a true head unit and not just a reciver. Otherwise your are just adding bass to a system lacking in the important parts, highs and mids.

    Bose is great at keeping the balance. That is why their systems sounds so clean. If you just add random components, the balance will be off.

    Sorry for the rant, I have just ran competition systems since 1997. And cringe when I hear systems that are stock and a few subs.

    In your truck I am assuming the subs were in the back seat or under them. So I am assuming you are still running the sealed box. When putting in a trunk you are basically adding a box. You will want some sort of ported box. I prefer banpass when the subs are in the trunk. Another choice is free air. But then you are just adding db's and loosing spl. And most people just adding Subs are looking for more spl.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Grasscity Forum mobile app

  12. I agree with everything you have said.  I am running a ported box though.  I'm just gonna scrap this install and do it right, its only a few hundred bones and it will sound much better than what is currently in there.  I really didn't want to run it this way but I didn't hear anything bad about it so I figured I would give it a shot.  TL;DR Shot given, didn't hit.  Doing it the right way.  Thanks for your input!
  13. From what I understand, your car has a bose sub stock and you're adding more subs, using the signal to the bose sub for the line out converter with the sub still hooked up. If you disconnect the bose sub it might send a higher/louder signal through the LOC to the amp. That's all I can really think of since you said you've properly set the gain.
  14. I actually figured out the issue.  The amp really dumbs down the volume put to the sub for whatever reason, every amp of that model does.  I was connecting the LOC past the amp and needed to connected before the amp.  Once I connected it to the wiring before the amp everything sounds great.
  15. Oh okay, glad you got it sorted!
  16. The thing that frustrated me most about the problem is that once I found the wiring diagram for the sedans it took me all of five minutes to figure out where I fucked up and another couple minutes to fix the mistake.
  17. Hahaha, that's the way it always goes. At least you had the brains to look for a wiring diagram, I didn't even think to do that.
  18. I say scrap it and start from scratch.
    If you need wiring diagrams or need to know how to read a schematic  im here to help.
    also if youre stressed, listen to some music and have a smoke to relax.
    Dont worry we're here to help. I know i am, I love helping
  19. I think he's got his stuff figured out now, he seems pleased :p :)

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