Whats wrong here? Ph maybe? PICS!

well one problem is you are going to need to transplant sooner than i expected they lack rootspace and those solo cup's allow light through..not good for your root's...make sure you have drainage holes in those cup's...i would not spend a ton of money on a ph meter...general hydroponic's sell's an awesome ph kit for under 20$ shipped to your door...it has a chart that will allow you to really under stand nutrient uptake and how ph effect's it...it's all with the kit..

before trying anything though...just use your tap water...get 3 solo cup's full per plant, slowly run those cup's of water through each one like your watering normaly over a sink and let them drain out...this will flush what ever may be in your soil causing a problem..then transplant into dry soil...
get a small fan for some wind on them while there under those light's and back your lighting off about 2 inches...
how's the temp's? humidity? the one with burnt tip's looks overheated and the other was drooping before and after watering? hmm...i'd flush it could only help at this point..

 

The pH of the soil and water should be between 6.5 and 6.8. Here is a handy chart that will show you where different nutrients will lock out in soil and hydro depending on the pH. Props to AskEd for the chart!

 

That's a cool chart Antigen, thanks for posting it again or I'd have missed it.

Ed rocks.

 

Ok, newb to this forum question:

Why does it say I am stuck in a rut above my name? I used to be walking in the blades or something weird like that. What does it all mean?

 

It's all about the rep system here man. You get green boxes above your name. People with lots of green boxes who have been here a while give more points than for instance, you are able to, because you are new.

People will rep you for being funny or making good quality posts. The 'alt' text will change as your points go up.
People will neg rep you when you make bad posts or for instance. give bad advice. Given that you hadn't discovered this already, I should confess that I neg repped you. I thought you were a noob troll dishing out rubbish (sorry man, we get a lot of them here) so i neg repped ya, that is probably why your description changed. I had no idea you would come back and be a grown up about it. Anyway, I'm glad you did and as soon as I am able to, I will plus rep you for more points to undo my rash neg repping from before.

Check out your points by looking at your user CP or my account at the top right of the page.


Sorry for the thread jack Op, I had to confess my hasty repping.

 

OK, I found it in my user profile, and I think I see how it works.

Thanks for the explanation (and confession)!

 

You got yourself a ph problem and maybe over water, not sure.

I keep my ph between 6.3~6.5, with 6.4 being the obvious sweet spot.

Hope this helps.

 

Ya know, this chart is better than nothing but, IMHO, it does not give you a good understanding of how ph and nutes interact at different ph levels.

So, not to Diss anyone but I think the following chart which I got from the Univ. of N.C. is a bit better at representing the relationship of nute uptake to ph.

This chart is for soiless but still pretty darn good.

I work in the 6.3~6.5 ph range, with 6.4 as my target.

After 6.5 you quickly get into phosporus deficiencies and such.

 

For starters, Why does your soil appear to have so much bark and large clumps? Bark, expecially pine will lower PH. If your soil was anymore 'barky' I'd think you bought orchid mix. I've used promix soil in the past, but have been using Jungle Grow Vetable mix from Lowes for a few years now and I don't see a difference, adding about 20% perlite.

Your plant is so young you shouldn't be giving it ferts yet. Providing you haven't been giving it ferts yet, you gotta have a PH problem. Note- After watering allow the soil to almost dry out completely.

My biggest suggestion would be to get a PH tester or if your on a budget get the General Hydroponics pH Test Kit, which is drops for around $8. As mentioned, the PH of your water should be 6.5 to 6.8, both before hand and after water(check ph of runoff water). In my opinion a PH meter or drops is the most critical tool to have in your garden.. Without a way to monitor PH your chancing everything and 'hoping' for the best.

I've grown in soil for a long time now and I have always used solo cups for seed/clones, works perfectly and I have never noticed any negative effects due to light seeping thru.

 

drop's for 8 buck's? no it's a entire PH adjustment kit, comes with a way better chart on ph and nute uptake along with really good ph up and down to make the adjustment too
...just gettin a meter is not going to do nothing but tell you that you have a problem and not allow you to fix it for a very expensive price..i have grown in both soil and hydro without a digital ph meter(the only ones worth the money), once the understanding of ph and nutes is there, expensive meter's almost become usless...the GH ph kit actually allow's you to do something with your ph, not just stare at it like a meter...and that kit is pretty accurate...
in soil grow's you have to take into account what your mix is...lot's of peat, pine bark and other slightly acidic medium's drop your soil ph...
so if you have a low ph already, then you dump water with ph down in it(6.5-6.8) your only adding to the problem...
you can mix your soil right to your tap...
for example my tap is hard water and 7.4-7.5 ph...very high...so i try my best to mix a slightly acidic siol...apx 6.0-6.2 then as i water over time with tap(7.4-7.5) the soil buffer's itself to around a 6.5-6.8...see what i'm sayin...
if you have acidic soil then add slightly acidic water..your asking for low ph level...
your not going to change that ph very much and over time, as acid's leach from the peat and bark etc..it will keep happening...so you want to test your soil, then test your water, then make the adjustment to help the ph plain out...or flush it with some 7.0ph water or r/o water...then your soil will drop it the .2-.5 you want all on it's own..this is quite normal with soil's..

solo cup's do let light to the root's bro...hold an empty one up to the light...see that light shinning through?????????? any great soil grower know's light pen to the root's slow's growth and can only cause problem's..(evn if you don't se it as stress , they will slow in growth ) i think that is mentioned in every good piece of lit out for growing mj since the 60's and 70's...

 

IMHO ... the general hydro ph chart is way better than this one... much more indepth than this...
this chart is very cool indeed, but kinda inaccurate..

 

what's your tap?
if your tap is around 7-7.2 just use it and flush bro...then give it a shot of nutes at about 1/4 strength..the ph will buff itself back down to a happy level for nutrient uptake..you will need a little nutes cause your flushing everything out...add a little soil in there too...look's a little low, do it then flush, and on the last cup full of water during flush, add a 1/4 strength nutes...

 

see this is what i was sayin about adding adjusted or slightly acidic water to acidic soil..lol

 

why are you scared of your tap water?
oh, i edited the above post for ya...

 

hey freedom i repped antigen 4 u &gave u 1 to HONESTY ROCKS