To properly use my Pfeiffer Biodynamic field spray To stage my clover mix(hope2toke like) over new seedlings first so they can establish in 4 weeks. When I hope to transplant in to layered premix over ammended premix that include the things that need more time to cycle before the tap is that deep. So my question is do I spray everything including the dogs with the Pfeiffer stuff and or some vermaplex on to all substrata incuding plants foliage then treat the clover seed with its innoculant and the topsoil with innoculant drench.before seeding. ? Yes this is quite a group of leaders and I appreciate help. I will be happy to share this with my friends if I can do it right. I have a hobby of making videos of written articles as many people can't read so well. So thanks to all you sweet folks who really need a jump start on their pile of leaf mold. So my question is I hope right to ask is the pfieffer more of a whole complex that needs to be used if I have it. If one doesn't have it then leaf mold is the golden jewel with ewc making miracles. Will someone please comment on Vermaplex and its place in my notill microgrow. The least amount of soil to finish some JH, CSSH, and caramelo or vanilla kush) I am guessing would be 3 gal. If I have clover mix on top means I need to plant it asap eh Ok so I am obnoxious enough to ask. Sorry to mess with the thread but I simply want to be prepared in case the possibility of getting some misty pearl clones happens soon. Need to ask if I should make my containers taller to maintain volume needed. If I stack two 5 gal buckets and keep the lower one simply leaf mold and worms and aerate then I might could get this puppy on the path. I like the height advantages for heat will probably be maintainde by a slab of marble tabletop heated underneath by a water bed heater and ontop of the slab I put a 3 inch layer of homemade gel hot packs to absorb and moderate heat. The planter barrels are another idea for notill but. I want to avoid massiveness. Is my idea of a tall stack not even close to the advantages of the wide surface area that a half barrel offers. Looks like its my choice now. Any pipers out there? I will be trying to accommodate an indoor worm bin out of a baby crib. Wouldn't sugar maple leaf mold be just the ticket for a lower level insulating from cold compost bed with worm under the crib. In the cribb go one half barrel. With botton cut out and opening through crib floor to allow the large composting eworm under the crib. The lights could be easily suspended in fold down bamboo rack so stealth could be had for when I am away walking dogs or any RonPaul haters come around. Ok so. For this thread I come to ask while my soil is getting done I will get the planter ready. Can you see my questions here are not idle study but sort of unde When I get a good answer then I will happy to delete my posts as it does interupt the flow of the thread. I see that. And I hate to be that. So I won't persist and actually will be happy to erase all traces of my own ignorance. I will say this is the best time I have had in many years! Under pressure calls for more dhea. Thanks y'all. I won't be asking a lot after I am set up because I just don't have time either. This took me an hour to write ) Ur
http://www.groworganic.com/biodynamic-field-spray-2-oz-pkt.html $30 for 2 oz http://www.jpibiodynamics.org/node/444 $230 for 2 oz Pfeiffer Biodynamic Field & Garden Spray aids the transformation of organic materials already in the soil into humus. Can I sell anyone a bridge or magic beans?
The second one is actually cheaper, $23 vs $30. Read close, that $230 is for 10-2oz packages. Too bad I don't have 10 acres to spray, or even 1 for that matter. Just what is it anyway? Some sort of humic/fulvic or ???????. Wet
Thanks for the correction. Seems that it is a mystery concoction. Maybe you can find the ingredients. I'll bet it is dried out fermentation. (eg. bakashi)
The 'Pfeiffer' refers to Dr. Ehrenfried Pfeiffer and from the link Controlled Microbial Composting & Humus Management: Luebke Compost is this cite: The ingredients listing on the first link is pretty easy to understand. The BD in the listing represents 'Biodynamic' which is how these plant materials have been listed since 1926 by their controlling group, Demeter. BD 500 - Horn Manure BD 502 - Yarrow BD 503 - German Chamomile BD 504 - Stinging Nettle BD 505 - White Oak Bark BD 506 - Dandelion BD 507 - Valerian Root For legitimate Biodynamic preparations the prices quoted are more than fair and equitable. If one has no little or no confidence in the work of Steiner, Pfeiffer, the Luebkes, et al. then these preparations are definitely open for ridicule. LD
LD, I recognize a lot of those ingredients to be proven beneficial amendments. Would this product likely be beneficial to put in with the Food, Mineral, Fix It recipe you gave me a while back? I am still using that on all my soil mixes, BTW. Damn near got it memorized. Anyway, let us know what you think the most beneficial use of this product might be. JaK
JaK I'm not the best one to promote (or even explain) many of the tenets of Steiner's biodynamic farming writings. I'm even less familiar with Dr. Pfeiffer's work outside of the connection to the Luebke's work in Austria. Having said that, with the exception of BD 500 (Horn Manure), I grow and use all of the BD concoctions except for the White Oak Bark which is easily sourced in the PNW - it's a native tree. The bark sells for about $35.00 per yard. These bontanical teas are the only 'teas' that I apply. They're easy to prepare, apply and the benefit is extraordinary. In the batch of thermal compost that I made last summer, I used all of the BD materials but didn't necessarily follow Dr. Pfeiffer's proportions on the material. I loaded all of them between the layers of 'normal' Carbon and Nitrogen materials, dried leaves, hay, alfalfa hay, etc. Having seen the results of just Comfrey on Terpine production (THC), the pesticide and fungicide benefits, et al. and the fact that it's almost free has shown me that it's the best 'nute program' anyone could come up with for organic gardeners. HTH LD
I am aware the stuff is named for Pfeiffer [careful not to confuse with the famous microbiologist Richard Federick Johannes Pfeiffer]. I definitely feel there is more credibility there than with Steiner but admit to a general self-imposed ignorance in biodynamics mostly because of the etheric seeming stuff. But you never know. I'd be completely open to testing it out. I guess some of it bakes down to different interpretations of humus. Does not the one site claim it is a microbial concoction which prevents nitrogen lock up caused by organic matter in the soil? Another sentence states it transforms organic matter into humus. Luebkes also worked with France's material who claimed that humus is formed by the interaction of a consortium of microbes; *bacteria, flagellates, naked amoebae, bacterial feeding nematodes and fungi....sounds familiar? To me these are the components of healthy natural soil. *too early in history for archaea
I'm not promoting or defending Demeter's certification processes. The USA group is based a few miles south of me and even in a state with a huge organic farming/gardening paradigm like Oregon, there are less than 90 certified Biodynamic farms here. IOW, it ain't a big deal. Even worldwide it's not a huge deal because of how strict their 'rules' are. It's not for the faint of heart or someone 'wanting to check something out' - a book that I purchased from the Australia Biodynamic Farming Group is a case in point. One of the better explanations from beginning to end - it's definitely a philosophy which makes sense from Steiner's writings. He knew very little about growing plants in general. LD
I thought we wanted nitrogen locked up in the soil, as otherwise it volatilizes into the air as ammonia? Or am I completely off here. I thought that was why one would want nitrogen fixing plants as a cover crop?
Is white oak bark added for the same reason fir bark is added? It's the CEC's right? But I will look at Dr Duke's phytochemical database.what a gem of a site. Oak. Or fir bark? White oak is easier to find 'round here. Thanks Dh url
Actually I am not sure which of the oaks is white but I can recognize a fir tree more easily. Is it that valuable to get either or into a mix? Thanks Durgahands urlove