Inspired by Subcool's mix, here is a variation put together for fig trees using locally available items. Immediately after cutting root they will be placed in 1 gallon pots and into their flowering area. 10 Gallon, G, of Promix 4 G of Compost (Combination of leaves and household food waste) 1 G Vermiculite 1 G Perlite 1 Gallon Worm Castings 1 Cup of Oyster Shell 1 Cup of Domolite Lime 30 TBS Azomite 30 TBS Green Sand 17 TBS Bone Meal 10 TBS Blood Meal Every week or so the flowering figs will be given Actively Aerated Compost Tea with the following Recipe. Tea is Brewed with 1 G and then combined with 4 gallons of plain H20 1 Cup of Compost 1 Cup of Worm Castings 2 TBS Unsulf Molasses 2 TBS Fish Mix Bio Buzz (Hydro-slated Protein) 2 TBS Humic Acid What do you think? I really appreciated your guidance and feedback!
I don't measure nutrient quantities but I don't see why it would say in tbs instead of cups that seems stupid. 30 tbs = 2 cups 17 tbs = 1 cup 10 tbs- just over 1 cup. I mean were you going to sit there with a tbs measure and do that 100 times???? besides that the ratio's seem about right, but it all depends on the quality of the compost. if it's a commercial brand EWC you're just getting some nitrogen, carbons, and calcium because they're given the basic requirements to live (newspaper, and calcium). if you were using more vital compost you would scale down on some of the hard hitting ingredients like the blood meal. then for your ACT the Bio Bizz should be returned to the store. It's over-priced and a gallon of eco-hydro-fish will work better and cost around 15$. secondly you're missing some vital ACT ingredients. Third make sure all the water is in one bucket when you aerate it using a commercial 3 or greater air pump.
16 TBS = 1 Cup The compost is made from household food waste ie coffee grinds, banna peels, egg shells non toxic cardboard etc... The Bio Bizz was selected since it was hydroslated fish as per Elaine Ingrahm. What ingredients do you think it is missing? Thanks
Figs? jerry. edit: Why buy BioBizz's name? Why not just buy some fish hydrolysate? Or is there something else in it... editedit: The main reason for using an Actively Aerated Compost Tea is to add biologically active life to a soil mix that is low in bacterial/fungal etc numbers in the first place. It really will not do you any good to add an AACT to your garden on a weekly basis. Use it when you transplant into your large containers, and if you want, maybe once more a few weeks later but thats all you need. Tim Wilson recommends that you not add humics during the actual brew. If you are going to use it in conjunction with the tea, then add it when your brew is complete. Figs? jerry.
Figs are so heady. Bio Bizz is a organic line of fertilizers and was the only pure fish hydroslate that could be found locally. The only ingredients that are listed is the FH. The price is a little higher but it's local. The main idea behind adding the tea on a regular basis was to pack it full of bacteria to aid in the nitrogen fixation and a way to continually add the molasses to feed the bacteria. Thanks for the heads up, I will make the necessary changes. The HA is added to the finished tea. I made the mistake of adding it once during the brewing process, stinky dead tea. The idea is the HA will help chelate the organics in mix. It is almost like they are showing calcium mag deficiencies, surprising because it seems like this mix has plenty between the azomite lime and oyster shell?
Gr8Ful - FYI regarding Bio Bizz "Organic Status"... "Bio Bizz is a organic line of fertilizers" Re: The bio bizz feeding schedule. Quote: Originally Posted by qualitypotlover because bio bizz is organics? lol No it is not - LOL backache! They use their OMRI 'listing' as a pretense for being organic. OMRI can't certify a single thing - even their own mission statement will tell you that. As a matter of fact, Bio Bizz has a rather unique moniker - the only company to have their entire product line banned by the Oregon Department of Agriculture for mislabeling and their claim that their gunk/junk is 'organic' based on the OMRI listing is the reason for the delisting. Yuck it up! LOL You're welcome. LD Sorry about that, but it is what it is. See if you can find some straight-up fish hydrolysate. Might have to order it - or even some in powdered form. jerry.
Thanks for the heads up, although, I can assure you it is not the first time I have been the consumeristic fool. What's wrong with people? What you think about the calcium issue?
I really dont think that most decent organic mixes become 'defficient", so have a hard time commenting on what you are thinking could be a defficiency. Maybe a pic could help? I honestly dont know if I could comment on this or not... jerry.
It raises an interesting question; maybe too much of something? PH 6.4-6.8 Tested with Kelway Soil PH Meter.
Could be. I wouldnt sweat the ph. How long did you let this soil batch sit before use, once you mixed it? I have had issues from not letting it sit and stew for long enough. jerry.
Clones go right into the mix. I don't compost it at all. What did you find doing after mixing worked best for you?
Aha... Therein lies the issue - I think. Can others chime in here? After mixing a soil like this with different ammendments, it is considered "Hot", and needs time to "compost/cool down". I hear different things, but several weeks to several months seems to be the concensus. Lets see what others have to say about putting clones directly into a fresh mix... I know for a fact that I have had issues doing this myself. jerry.
i've had plenty of issues with it as well. sub's mix is hot,very hot. i've been using a version of lc's mix for clones and potting up to 4 gal. pots.for parts i use a 2.5 gal sqaure bucket; 6 pts promix 2pts perlite 2pts worm casts to this mix i add; 1c blood 1c bone 1c kelp meals 1/2c azomite 1/2c dol. lime 1/2c epsoma flower tone 1/2c epsoma bio starter plus. this plus subs on the bottom,3 gallon flower pots worth. its been working well for me,i add earth juice grow and catalyst after 3 weeks of vedge, alfalfa tea at the beginning of vedge and flower.
The pic looks to me like over watering, but your growing figs? Why are you using sub cools mix on trees? I've looked at this thread several times, even once completely sober, and find it hard to comment due to my lack of knowledge pertaining to figs. Here's a fig growing link for you to look at, hope it helps..... Propagating Figs
Do you generally let them wilt a bit between waterings? I have found the best growers to be cannabis growers, that is why I am here and not some other forum
Lol, flattery just might get you some where. But it's quite a leap from mj to fig trees. I don't purposely wilt my plants, but they might have a bit of wilt when they are thirsty. I try not to let the soil go 100% dry so as to keep the micro world happy. Of course container growing can cause extreams quickly. Over watering can cause wilt or drooping and eventually spotting that looks like ph issues and what not, like that pic. In my limited experience most problems are caused by too much human input, and more rarely too little.....MIW
you have a magnesium deficiency, along with a phosphorus deficiency. they may not be deficient, though. if the pH of the medium your root ball sits in is lower than 6.4-6.5 than phosphorus and magnesium become unavailable for the uptake of your roots. test your runoff's pH, and try pHing your water a little bit higher for a few waterings. (6.8-7.0) you have very rich soil, so try raising your pH for a few times before giving it anything extra. it may look like a nitrogen deficiency, but magnesium is crucial to plant growth. Magnesium is the atom that bonds the entire chlorophyll molecule together. hate to bust your balls, but your soil mixture may not be organic. im not familiar with all of promix's brands, but they use an inorganic wetting agent on their sphagnum peat. i know the premier company sells plain ol' peat, but their "promix" formulas and others contain chemical based additives. sorry.
Thank you for the thorough reply and information! PH for Water is 7 here and not adjusted. As far as PH, I tested the plant using a Kelway Soil PH Meter. It is not a chepo PH Home Depot meter and gives very good results from my experience. I tested the root ball and results are 6.4-6.7 for all affected plants. Do you think that testing the runoff would provide any better insight to the PH in addition to the soil test already performed? I did flush a few days ago, just to be on the safe side. They are just drying out now and almost ready for another watering, do you think the runoff will be accurate since they were just flushed? I would assume Mag issue can be resolved by epsom and 1/4 tsp per gallon? I am not surprised to hear that about the soil. What company is honest these days, next to none in my experience. Thanks for the heads up, I will stop and find a better alternative. Any suggestions besides premiere's peat?
the organic sunshine mix #4 works great. premier (the people that make promix) also make a 100% peat product with no additives. test the runoff just to be sure your soil probe is correct. the runoff will not give you an exact pH, but it will give you an idea. epsom salts will help. but, like i said, you never know if your soil's pH is off. you have alot of nutes in your soil so i would make sure everything is perfect before adding anything else.