Composting help

Discussion in 'Growing Organic Marijuana' started by DankSeeker, Dec 3, 2010.

  1. #1 DankSeeker, Dec 3, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 3, 2010
    I'm going start a red wiggler compost bin and had a question on how to handle this material:
    I have several parrots that I keep outside in an aviary. The seed and nuts they get are quit varied, plus there's dried fruit and cereals. Should I just put everything straight into the bin or do an EM culture as follows first, then add it to the worm bin:
    1/3 carb, 1/3 material, and 1/3 RO water, let it brew a week and use the liquid, (diluted 20-1 for the existing plants), and put the material in the bin?
    Alot of the seeds pop before I clean it out, which I understand are very high in nutrients and am looking for the best way to deliver all these nutrients .
     
  2. I would be very careful with using anything that comes from birds.

    I use quail & chicken bedding, leftover feed, etc. in my compost and the ammonia levels can get VERY high if there is a lot of their fecal matter in it. It really can be quite overwhelming even in small ammounts and dangerous.

    It needs to be thoroughly composted before it can be used. I use a HOT composting method and it takes a bit longer to fully breakdown when I do add anything that comes from my chickens or quails.

    In your case, if there is bird crap present then it may kill the worms.

    I would say keep it simple man, you can use str8 plant matter in your worm bin and the worms will break it down in no time.

    Also, keep your bins in the shade. I had worm bins a couple of years ago and ended up cooking them because the bins were in full sun, the smell was horrible!

    Good Luck :)
     
  3. #3 DankSeeker, Dec 3, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 3, 2010


    Yeah, I read about frying em, haven't done it, though. I only have 5 birds. 2 are larger and the other 3 are smaller parrots. They probably only produce a small amount of the total debris and there would be a continous supply of household fruit, veg and yard waste, including various fruit trees.
    Also, have a large amount of crushed oyster shells to add occassionally for worm proliferating.
     
  4. Worms will eat anything basically.

    From my experience they like both Nitrogen based (grass clippings, food scraps, etc.) and Carbon based (straw, dead leaves, hay, etc.)

    Feed the worms = feeding the soil :)
     
  5. #5 DankSeeker, Dec 3, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 3, 2010
    I read on another thread that if you freeze everything before you put it in the bin, it kills the gnat eggs and such, thus cutting down the pest problems for inside grows. I have a storage freezer that's ever only half full. Maybe fill a yardbag with debris and fill the bag with CO2 before you freeze it to kill unwanted bugs.
     
  6. I'd also be adding used soil including the root ball to the bin that will have various home brewed EMs that have been added during the grow.
    I would think it would reach 'supersoil' status with a few amendments.
     

  7. DankSeeker

    Since I live in the People's Republic of Oregon where pristine water is the norm (other than Portland - yuck!), I can't speak to the issue of needing to use RO water - but you know your local deal and I don't.

    As a general process I use the bokashi method to process most/all of the plant-based material that goes into my worm bins. Bokahsi is simply an agent that has been inoculated with lactobacillus bacteria strains, like EM-1 or your homemade lactic serum you made from rice.

    The main advantage to running material through the fermenting process (however you get there) is that the issue of heavy metals is negated in this process. It also removes most/all of the minerals from the plant material making it more available to the compost worms which results in 'sequestered nutrients' that are the hallmark of EWC.

    If you have the time and/or option, run all of your plant material through some kind of fermenting process, i.e. FPE, bokashi, hydrolysate, etc.

    HTH

    LD
     
  8. #8 DankSeeker, Dec 3, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 3, 2010
    Ld, Thank you very much. You have given me some food for thought and cleared up alot.
    I thought the FPE innoculated with the "home brew" process might be the way to go and then add it to the bin.
    Gonna be a living soil grower, yet.
     
  9. #9 DankSeeker, Dec 3, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 3, 2010
    Ahh, but another bowl and another question; Is it true that the only place us 'living soil growers' concern ourselves with PH is to know when an FPE has finished brewing, i.e., <3.6...ideally 3.2?
    Other than that, the soil PH, runoff, etc isn't a concern as long as we use a "good" water source.
    Have I seen the light?
     
  10. #10 Stankie, Dec 3, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2010
    I can only speak for myself DankSeeker, but I haven't tested PH once since I started true organic gardening. I live near the People's Republic of Boulder, so I also have very 'good' tap water. Unless you have very hard water, I would say you are OK in not checking. I have a general idea of what my water's PH is because of past grows, but I don't give it a second thought anymore. When I first started true organic gardening, I was kinda freaked about the water also. I run mine through an old Brita style filter that's sole purpose is filtering my plant's and my dog's water. Then I let the water sit uncovered for at least 24 hours.

    My plants are healthier now more than ever, which makes me happy :)
     
  11. Thinking, now I have a question . . . .

    What effect does sodium fluoride have in an organic soil grow. I don't want to start a fluoride debate, but I personally think it is toxic waste and has no use in our water/toothpastes.
     
  12. Stankie, I never liked the idea, either. When I lived in Alaska and had a well, the first thing my kids dentist did was put her on a flouride regiment. I think it was pills? I can't remember. However, as you said, this thought has never come up and I am hoping someone will tell us it dissipates with the chlorine.

    JaK
     
  13. #13 Stankie, Dec 4, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2010
    I don't really trust western medicine at all. "Here, take this toxic waste. It will make your teeth stronger." :rolleyes:

    Honestly, fluoride is the only reason I run my water through a filter. If that crap wasn't in the water, I wouldn't even bother.

    I have put myself on a strict local spring water only regiment for about the last 8 months. I feel a lot better since I cut out tap water.
     
  14. #14 wongsuxx, Dec 5, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 5, 2010
    Personally i drink tap water allllll the time. In fact, I had less cavities after drinking the tap water out here. (Wa state). However, recently read something...

    Fluoride - Adverse Health Effects

    Also...
    In laboratory studies, fluoride seems to be toxic for microbial processes at concentrations found in moderately fluoride polluted soils; similarly, in the field, accumulation of organic matter in the vicinity of smelters has been attributed to severe inhibition of microbial activity by fluoride.

    Signs of inorganic fluoride phytotoxicity (fluorosis), such as chlorosis, necrosis and decreased growth rates, are most likely to occur in the young, expanding tissues of broadleaf plants and elongating needles of conifers. The induction of fluorosis has been clearly demonstrated in laboratory, greenhouse and controlled field plot experiments. A large number of the papers published on fluoride toxicity to plants concern glasshouse fumigation with hydrogen fluoride. Foliar necrosis was first observed on grapevines (Vitis vinifera) exposed to 0.17 and 0.27 µg/m3 after 99 and 83 days, respectively. The lowest-observed-effect level for leaf necrosis (65% of leaves) in the snow princess gladiolus (Gladiolus grandiflorus) was 0.35 µg fluoride/m3. Airborne fluoride can also affect plant disease development, although the type and magnitude of the effects are dependent on the specific plant–pathogen combination.

    Several short-term solution culture studies have identified a toxic threshold for fluoride ion activity ranging from approximately 50 to 2000 µmol fluoride/litre. Toxicity is specific not only to plant species, but also to ionic species of fluoride; some aluminium fluoride complexes present in solution culture may be toxic at activities of 22–357 µmol fluoride/litre, whereas hydrogen fluoride is toxic at activities of 71–137 µmol fluoride/litre. A few studies have been carried out in which the fluoride exposures have been via the soil. The type of soil can greatly affect the uptake and potential toxicity of fluorides.

    Aluminium smelters, brickworks, phosphorus plants and fertilizer and fibreglass plants have all been shown to be sources of fluoride that are correlated with damage to local plant communities. Vegetation in the vicinity of a phosphorus plant revealed that the degree of damage and fluoride levels in soil humus were inversely related to the distance from the plant. Average levels of fluoride in vegetation ranged from 281 mg/kg in severely damaged areas to 44 mg/kg in lightly damaged areas; at a control site, the fluoride concentration was 7 mg/kg. Plant communities near an aluminium smelter showed differences in community composition and structure due partly to variations in fluoride tolerance. However, it must be noted that, in the field, one of the main problems with the identification of fluoride effects is the presence of confounding variables such as other atmospheric pollutants. Therefore, care must be taken when interpreting the many field studies on fluoride pollution."
     
  15. Off topic and apologies to the OP, but Stankie.....Are you anywhere near Evergreen, Co? I used to frequent the "Little Bear Tavern" back in my youth and I gotta tell you, some great R&B and Blues shows there were epic to say the least.

    Back on topic.....Wongsuxx, thanks for the article. I feel sorry for those that have to deal with the local water districts and their flouridation, chlorination, ozonation policies. I'm fortunate enough to have a well that has 140 ppm dissolved solids and a pH of 7.4.

    Since I switched from hydro to organics, I have only used my Hanna Tri Meter to check the pH of my AEM and FPE's. I truly haven't stressed about for a long, long time.

    peace,

    chunk
     
  16. #16 Stankie, Dec 5, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2010
    Chunk, I live about an hour from there. I've only been to Evergreen once, but I will definitely keep that in mind if I'm ever down there. Got a good place closer to me in Lyons, called Oskar Blues. They have some good blues/bluegrass. And beer.
     
  17. I have n't check PH after I decided to go organic, because of the research I've done. "Living soiL" shouldn't need PH monitored as long as the water you use is somewhat neutral. IMO, as long as your water is within 10% of 7.0, then you should be fine. Not sure about ppm, but w/ RO it's not an issue.
    I use RO, more because of the clorine than anything.
    My understanding is that "brews" need to cook to 3.5 to be finished, whereas teas do not.
     
  18. #18 Stankie, Dec 5, 2010
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2010
    I first started making AACT about a year ago. I was just starting to get into organics and I had a little piece of Ph tape left. I dunked it into the bubbling tea, pulled it out, and checked the Ph. It was spot on 7.0! Needless to say, that was the first and last time I checked the Ph of my AACT!
     

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