Looking for some advice

Hey RBS, theres a special section for hydro growing that you might get better replies over there.

This bump will keep you on the front page for a few hrs so hopefully a hydro-helpful responder will happen along in here.

 

2.0 is too high to start flowering. Especially with a plant that size. They're pretty small. Start 1.0 and raise it to around 1.8 for peak flowering. But monitor how they eat and adjust to their likings. They're looking over watered also. I have no experience with drippers but could you slow the flow or put them on a timer to let more air to the roots? Or it could just be from the high amount of N in the calmag. I'm not sure. Also I don't believe in the calmag anymore. Using it causes you to have to run a lower ppm of your base nutrient to avoid a toxic solution. Often people get a lock out from overdosing or ph and think to add calmag in the solution and it may fix it for some but if you think about it what you're really doing when you're adding calmag is most likely lowering the ppm of the base. 1200ppm of a base may burn your plant but 900ppm of that base and 300ppm of calmag and now shes more happy with this actual lower base value. Some nutrient makers don't even offer a calmag because they know its not needed. Others intentionally lower the calmag value of the base and then advise to use a supplement but imo this is just to get you to spend more money. If anyone every wanted to use it id say only for peak flowering but honestly I think its a waste.

Flore nova has plenty of calmag in it to flower a healthy plant. Also its semi organic so your 2.0 ec is not too too intense on her but if that was 2.0ec of a full synthetics then she would be a crispy critter.

After you lower your solution ec then mist them daily with water but not while the hid's are on. That will help them correct the overdose. Also burning is not always the typical brown tip working its way inward. It can start many different ways as high levels of certain elements can cause a lock out of other elements that's why its best to start with ro water and add the correct ec or ppm of your base nutrient this ensures the correct ratio of every element and changing the solution every 1-2wks keeps them in the right ratio. Ph is what will keep everything accessible.

Also try food grade 30% h2o2 at anywhere from 1-4ml per gallon. The 3% store bought uses sodium stannate as a stabilizer which is known to be toxic when ingested by people or plants. This has nothing to do with your issue but just saying.

Really they aren't that bad. You can recover from this.

Also about the calmg topic too much calcium can cause magnesium to lock out and also vise versa. That's another reason its good just to use the cal & mag that's in the base.

 

so first things first. They look over watered (not enough oxygen getting to roots). Put the dripper on a timer and aerate the water better. Do this and lets go from there

also, dont mist like he ^ said (no offense)

are you using a recirculating fan?

 

When you over water and damage the roots foliar feedings become more necessary since the plants ability to absorb through the roots is some level of screwed.

 

yet the plant is STILL overwatered. There is NO need to foliar spray. Roots are MUCH better at absorbing water than any leaf. There is no need for MORE water in any way here right now. We also dont know what his version of screwed is yet he could be like "man they gross roots all are all white with gross little hairs everywhere!"

 

Im actually concerned about Phosphorous too. Those damaged areas look like they could be light burn or phosphorous lockout(since youre using a flower formula) but Id like to see the overwatering taken care of first along with proper Ph being maintained

dont know if I mention this before but 6.2 is too high for hydro. try to maintain 5.5-5.8 even a little lower is safe as it will always climb again. 5.2 is about as low as youd want to go but not ideal to maintain

 

True, foliar is really only if the whole root system is SOL and it starts really tanking on deficiencies as well.

Ew hairy white roots? Gross

 

can we see a pic of your roots?

I run a timer to water for 10 minutes 6 times a day. Dont be afraid to let them dry a little bit, especially if theyre already in the solution

 

or are the roots surrounded in those expanded clay pellets? if so Id water even LESS

 

^^^ blank pics?

 

Foliage spraying delivers the goods much times faster then the root system can. I'd say to spray to avoid the plant drinking from the toxic nute solution. Over watering will never burn your leaves like that. That's from a O.D. Over watering would be the least of my worries at the moment. Anytime a plant is burned its best to increase the RH, put it in a rh dome, or mist it often to help stop it from drinking more nutes. Or atleast whenever I burn a plant that's what I do to save them and it works every time. Its usually the clones or very youngsters that get burned. Just try to avoid soaking large buds because that can promote mold. Not that you're currently flowering but more so for others reading this post that may be trying to recover from a o.d at a different stage.

 

looks like we dont see eye to eye again

Foliage spray does NOT work better than roots do. While SOME osmosis can happen its not nearly as much as roots. Not sure why youre convinced his nute solution is "toxic" or that his roots are screwed anyway?

the "burns" may actually be phosphorous defficiencies along with some others that look a little off
not sure if you mean light burn or nute burn

if youre wrong, hes going to be encouraging mildew


do you have any more pics?

proper Ph for hydro is 5.5-5.8

i still say less water more airation

 

I know these things from experience. Been there done that many times. Deficiencies don't happen when you're feeding with a base nutrient and changing the solution every1-2 weeks. As long as your ph is in range and you're using a base that has everything in it then your good. Every time, guaranteed 100%. Whats happening to all that phosphorous in his base? The plants can use that just fine. If it was a def. any type at all, then changing the solution FRESH WILL FIX IT. Deficiencies don't cause burning. Anytime your leaf tip is burned or rust/brown color your feeding is maxed out and your on he verge of burning everything. If your leaf tip is already burned and then you get different problems they are due to the over feeding.

Over watering will never ever in a million trillion years cause spotting or burning. Mildew or mold is only promoted if your constant rh is not under control.

OP- If you really think it needs more ferts go ahead and change the solution and hit it with whatever you want and watch it get worse.

Also ace, no offense but you should research google how much more effective foliage feeding is then root feeding. Plants absorb thing much faster through the leaves.

I don't make these things up. Things I say are not guesses.

Here, read. 8-10 times more effective. One love

How to Use Foliar Fertilizers for Fantastic Plants

 

Also if you ever look at other grows besides your own you will notice often most growers plants have the very tippy tip of the leaf dead or brown/burned. This is from high amount of fertilizer. Plants don't naturally grow with the tip this way. You can see that just from looking at healthy plants outside or newly born young plants, they will never have the tip this way.

Burned tippy tips- OD

Yellow/pale leaf- under fed

 

dude we're having 2 different conversations. Im done with this back and forth. Peace

 

if you wind up foliar feeding, know that its done just before the lights come on when the stomata are most open as opposed to after the lights go off when the stomata are more closed and is not typically done in hydroponic.