Get Hempy With It? 400w cooltube, 2x2x5 Tent

Whats up everyone,

Im starting my third grow and ill be growing bubblelicious in 2 gallon hempy buckets. My last grow I used the same setup but I used 3 gallon smart pots and Ocean Forest soil and yield 6.4 ounces off 4 plants of bubblelicious. (almost .5 gram/watt) This grow, I will be growing 3 plants. (goal, higher than .5gram/watt)

Nutes:

FF Grow Big, Big Bloom, Tiger Bloom

Light:

400w MH/HPS, cooled by cooltube and 4inch 195cfm Inline

Supplimental Nutes:

CalMag, Floralicious, Rapid Start, Big Bud, Bud Candy

Media:

Hydroton resovoir, Perilite Filling, topped off with layer of Hydroton

Feeding Schedule:

Feed-Skip-Feed-Skip-Feed-Skip-Flush PHed water

Seedlings:


Started seeds in starter plugs and transplanted into mini Hempy solo cups: (as soon as roots poke through started plug)

Final Hempy Buckets:

Tent Setup:

 

 
 
Its basically passive hydroponics aka the Hempy Bucket Method.  Ive done a couple of soils grows, but I want to see how much better the hempy method is over soil, it supposed to produced higher yields and better bud if I can keep the conditions correct.

 

yea this is my first time after tons of research so hopefully all goes well, here are pics from my last soil grow:
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Here we are day 9 veg in the mini hempy solo cups. I've been feeding with Nutes every single day ,PH 5.8-6.1, PPM 400-600.

 

Day 15 veg updatepm: 730-780Ph: 5.8-6.0Transplanted from hempy solo cups to hempy buckets today. I could have have left them in the solo cups a bit longer so rootball goes build a bit more but I decided to dump them in the final pot so the roots can start hitting the reservoir before flowering. Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum mobile app

 

I also watered everyday with Nutes and flush on Sunday. With the bigger containers. I'll be watering with Nutes every other day and flushing on Sunday .


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Veg day 21: ph 5.8-6.0 ppm 600-800




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Holy shit! How many plants and how long veg? I wish I had enough space or a spare room for a 1k light.


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Update: Day 28 Veg
This is the last day of veg until I flip to flower later today. (4 week veg/ 10-12 week flower)

Ppm:600-800
Ph: 5.8-6.0
Light schedule: glr 12/5.5/1/5.5



Ph: 6.0 water The ease of a hempy flush:


All plants are pretty good. One of my plant started developing some brown speckles on the leaves. Appears to be a Mn toxicity problem but I think the flush will resolve this rather quick.

I had slight nite burn in the beginning on some leaves but this is when I went over 800 ppm, feeding every other day with every watering.

Flowering, I will attempt to maintain a 6.0 ph.


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Update:
Ph 5.9 ppm 800-900 Day 35 from seedling, Day 8 of flowering:

So quite a bit has happened. I have 3 short indica phenos and 1 tall sativa pheno.

The indica phenos are doing fantastic no problems at all.




The sativa pheno had a really bad cal-mag deficiency, although it received the same amount of Nutes as the other plants, I believe the sativa genetics for some reason contributed to the deficiency, mainly because of the huge stretch?



Anyways I fixed the cal mag deficiency by flushing the plant with water phed at 5.6 and added a heavy dose of cal mag, 3tspn per gallon. As you can see from the picture the horrible necrosis has stopped spreading to the new growth. I had to bend the top so that it was somewhat even with the other tops.


Here are shots of my cured bubble soil harvest:


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Unfortunately I had no option but to force the 400 w to work with my 2x2x5 tent and I control heat by doing the following:

My conditions: my tent is in my bed room so the 400 w hps will heat up my room pretty fast. Even if I exhaust all of the air out of the tent fast, it just go directly into my bedroom and soon the intake air temp has increased resulting in higher temps inside the tent.

Controlling temps:

1. Connecting your inline fan, scrubber, cool tube, etc is not very efficient in my opinion. My tent has 2 exhaust ports and 2 lower intake ports and passive flaps. I have my cool tube on a duct separate from my inline and scrubber. My inline fan sits at the top of my tent connected to my scrubber and then to exhaust. It is highly efficient because the duct is short and it is scrubbing air directly out of the tent.

My second ducting consists of a 4 inch intake 4-6 inch increaser - 240 hydro farm duct booster-cool tube -6-4 inch duct reducer- exhaust. I have my duct booster blowing air across my bulb and the out the exhaust because sucking will increase the risk of smell leaks and booster fans are plastic which could risk fire.

With that being said, I close my passive flaps and have a 4 inch duct running on the side of my tent to my window. This creates a negative pressure I'm the tent and it allows me to bring in cool fresh air. At night, it's been getting around 60 degrees allowing the air being sucked in significantly cooler thus resulting in my ability to run a 400w at max in a 2x2. Because the air inside if the tent is cool, it also cools my tube. The air being exhausted out by my cool tube is also cooler.

On a cool night I'm able to get temps as low as 72 degrees. I also run my lights at night and I have a dim able ballast for those hot nights so I can turn down to 50 and 75% if necessary. I will post pictures for you of my setup so you can see it.



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Hopefully these pictures help you out:
 
The Red indicates the duct for the cooltube/booster fan.
The Blue indicate the airflow for carbon scrubber / inline fan.
 

duct booster and increaser

 
 
As you can see, having the cooltube and carbon scrubber on seperate lines will improve efficiency in the system.  The duct booster is extremely quiet and blows cool air sucked in from the intake at the lower left, up and through the cooltube across the bulb, and finally pushed out through the exhaust in the back.
 

 
These next three pictures shows the airflow inside of my tent and the intake duct that i have extended from the tent to the window.  there is a stocking over the end to act as a filter and to keep pests out.  Because i have all of my passive vents closed, this forces all air to come from the intake duct and creates negative pressure.  I run my lights and booster fans on a a timer set to run at night, when the intake air gets as low as 50-60 degrees.  i have a small fan at the bottom blowing across the plants and up where the inline fan/carbon filter suck that air, clean it, and exhausts it out the top.  because of this cooling method, the air exhausted by the cooltube is also cooler.
 
Also i have a fan speed controller and a digital ballast in which i can adjust the output.  For hot 70 degree nights, i dim it down to about 75% or whatever gets my temps below 85 degrees.  I could also turn my fan speed up for additional ventalation.

Anyways hopes this helps you out and whoever reads this thread.

 

Update start of week 3 flowering:
Ppm 930-1000 flushed prior with water phed to 6.9

Bud sites are starting to pop up everywhere and the plant with the calmag deficiency appears to have recovered. I also performed a little bottom trimming.




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Late update:
Week 7 4th week flowering.

Ppm 1140 ph 6.0-6.3

All plants budding equally and it looks like the stretch has stopped as well or at least slowed a bit. They are roughly 2 feet in height. Looks like trichome a development has started as well.




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The nutrients used in this grow:



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