$50 HPS Guide

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself' started by biggie2pac, Apr 17, 2011.

  1. I posted this in Absolute beginners, but that thread got derailed, and it really belongs here anyway. so here it is


    So after finding a 150w HPS for only $39.90 on e-conolight I had to see what the deal was with it. Shipping was only $10. I read some guides on older models that e-conolight doesn't carry anymore, so I thought I'd make a guide on this one.

    here are materials list:
    1. the light
    2. decent length bits of good quality wire. i stripped mine out of a power cable for a cd burner.
    3. any pc power supply or extension cord or other grounded ac plug
    4. a nut and bolt (or a substitute, read the post)
    5. screwdriver/scissors/electrical tape/derptools
    6. (optional) clasps to make your ballast removable.

    I didn't take pics along the way, but I have a lot of pics to demonstrate what I'm talking about. Here's the stock photo of the light, this is what it looks like when you get it, fully assembled.
    [​IMG]

    you could hang the light like this but it'd get extremely hot and weighs almost 9 pounds. everyone prefers a remote ballast, and thats what this guide is all about.

    when you open the glass and remove the bulb, there are three screws. two by the socket, and one on the other side. they're easy to find. once they're gone, the socket will be loose and the reflector will come out easily. with the reflector out, this is what you're left with (but with the socket in there instead of the bits of wire i have leading out, i'll explain those later)
    [​IMG]

    The socket is attached by two wires, black and white.
    [​IMG]
    cut them both, but leave length on both sides of your cut.

    at this point i like to reattach the socket to the reflector. just line the holes up, theyre already there, and put a bolt through it and attach a nut on the other side to secure the socket in place.
    [​IMG]

    I didn't have a bolt and nut and didn't feel like buying one, so i used a screw and a bit of wood. same concept.
    [​IMG]

    now simply get your length of wire and attach one end to the socket
    [​IMG]

    and the other end to the ballast where you cut earlier.
    [​IMG]

    i opted to attach male/female clasps so that i could remove my ballast. this is recommended but optional.
    [​IMG]

    now all thats left is to wire your a/c in, the easiest part. i didn't take pictures, but i'll still explain

    coming out of the flood will be a pre-stripped black and white wire and a bare copper wire. all you do is strip down a pc power supply/extension cord/other grounded plug and it will yield a black, white, and green wire. attach black to black, white to white, and green to bare copper. wrap the rest of the copper in electrical tape. i like to wrap the wires together in tape all the way to the base of the flood to make it look better.

    then just plug it in and make sure your bulb fires up.
    [​IMG]

    now you can work on a way to hang it. you'll have to get creative here. i just screwed chains into the wood and connected them.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    that's really it. the last step i suppose would be put it over your girls. here are a couple shots of this 150w next to my 400w
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    thats it. i hope this helps someone even though it is pretty basic stuff. thanks for checking out the thread.
     
  2. Good work, but you have a lot of wire connections. Have you considered using some heat shrink tubing or anything like that?
     
  3. nah. i soldered all my connections then wrapped the solder in electrical tape then wrapped the electrical tape in duct tape to make it flush.

    i'm not worried about my connections. tbh i wouldn't even be worried if i'd simply twisted the wires and taped them.

    heatshrink tubing would be a nice touch though, but i wouldn't consider it necessary by any means.
     

  4. I'm sure your connections are fine, it's the fire that I'd be worried about . . .
     
  5. lerp herp.

    by fine i meant my connections are safe
     
  6. Plus repped for the awesome cheapness.
     
  7. Would this work if I didnt take it out of the housing, and just hung it in my closet as is?
     
  8. "you could hang the light like this but it'd get extremely hot and weighs almost 9 pounds. everyone prefers a remote ballast, and thats what this guide is all about."
     
  9. :rolleyes::p:smoke:
     
  10. trying to figure out a cheap lighting system for a veg shelf. what kind of output does it have compared to a t5 fixture?
     
  11. Nice!! +rep
     
  12. Could you put a 150w MH bulb into this and have it work safely?
     
  13. no you cannot.
     
  14. #14 BeanusOfWeanus, Jun 3, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 3, 2011
    Thanks for this biggie2pac.

    I somehow managed to find a 150w hps security light on amazon for 10 bux, so I figured I'd give this a try. Super easy, if you can find one of these lights for cheap then there is no reason not to do it. Also consider assembling your own light from a ballast kit. Most lighting/electrical stores sell them, and they're significantly cheaper than kits bought from hydro stores.

    btw - [ame]http://www.amazon.com/SPR90208-Holder-Steel-4Wx4-1-4Dx3-1/dp/B000EFQLLI[/ame] - This thing is perfect for holding the ballast.
     
  15. bump. this is an awesomely excellent thread. I dont know why it wouldnt be stickied? +rep :smoke:
     
  16. fyi, you can run a 200w hps bulb in a 150w system, i have before w/o any probs,, found the bulb on ebay.
    +rep
     

  17. But your ballast would still be putting out 150W of power would it not? And if that's the case I don't know why you would want to under-drive a 200W bulb. But I have no personal experience with HID.

    Sweet guide definitely going to do this sometime soon.
     
  18. i though so too, but the 200w was brighter than the 150w.
    ive ran a 400w in a 600w system, & ive ran a 200w in a 150w system, & ive run a 1000w in a 600w system w/o issues, except the 1000w in a 600w system, the bulb surely wasnt running @ 1000w, so it wasnt "1000w" bright, & the color was off some, & running the 400w in the 600w, the bulb was much brighter than a regular 400w system, but again the color was slightly off than a 400w in a 400w system, & the 200w in the 150w setup was brighter, & didnt really notice any difference in color.

    i think they rate these systems under what they can actually put out for safety reasons, but like you, im no electrician or expert on HID bulbs & ballast, but what i did above worked, & also look @ these new HID systems, like lets say these "badass" ballast Baddass Balast 1000 Watt Dual Voltage - Ballasts / Transformers, these can run a 1000w bulb @ 1000w, 750w & 500w, then they have the 600w overdrive systems which run @ 660w (overdrive), 600w, 450w & 300w
     

  19. That's definitely cool to know. I had already heard that the color is thrown off a bit if under/overdriven, but all lights are pretty much like that. But a 200W in this rig would be super cheap overall still. I wish I could buy a ballast like that *drools*
     
  20. yea, i love my ballast, its a 400w/600w nextgen, but its output is really around 450w/650w, b/c putting both my 600w ballast lights on (same exact bulb, sunmaster 600w super hps delux), the nexgen light is much brighter, noticable vs my 600w sun system ballast
     

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