Growing With Soil And Soilless Mixes Guide

What is Soil Texture?

Soil particles are classified by size and shape. Clay particles are the smallest and flat. Sand particles are the largest and boulder shaped. Silt particles are intermediate. The physical performance of soils is mostly a function of particle size and shape. "Soil Texture" is a term that is used to discuss the physical properties of soils based on the relative percentages of these different particles.


What is Clay Soil?

Clay soils have a very dense soil structure. The particle size is extremely small and there is very little open space between and around the particles. Water enters and drains from clay slowly. Clay soils can be very fertile but hard to work. Soils should have at least 35 percent by volume clay particles to be classified as "clay".


What is silt?

Silt is the soil particle that is intermediate in size between the smaller clay particle and the larger sand particle. Silt, in combination with clay and sand, are the building blocks of loam


What is Sandy Soil?

Sandy soils have an open soil structure. The particle size is large and there is a lot of open space between and around the particles. They take up water readily and are sharp draining. They are often short on nutrients but easy to work. Soils should contain at least 70 percent by volume sand particles to be classified as "sand".


What is Soil Structure?

Soil structure is the way in which the sand, silt, and clay particles are grouped together. The drainage capacity of the soils and the ability of the soils to make nutrients available to the plant are functions of soil structure.


What is Soil?

While this may appear to be a very basic question it is in actuality a very complex topic.

Traditional soils have five basic components:

• Air
• Water
• Mineral Particles
• Organic Matter
• Biology

Air:

Soil air refers to the gaseous phase of soil which is neither liquid nor solid. It is estimated that 25% of any given soil is composed of air that is a gaseous medium.
Water:

Soil Water or Soil Solution is the liquid phase of the soil. Soil water contains dissolved salts and chemicals (in the form of ions) that are free-floating and not attached to any solid particles (mineral surfaces). Water also comprises an estimated 25% of any given soil sample.
Mineral Particles:

The mineral part of soil is composed of varying amounts of sand, silt, and clay. On the whole these particles are not derived from materials that were once living, meaning that the minerals are inorganic. The characteristics of mineral particles greatly influence soil behavior and management needs.

Sand: The soil component sand is mainly small rock fragments and hard minerals such as quartz. It contains few plant nutrients and soils high in sand can be particularly arid due to high drainage low nutrient ratios.

Of the three types of soil particles, sand is the largest in size and provides the following benefits if used as a soil component in moderate amounts:

Improves drainage, aeration, and tilling quality.

Silt: Silt consists of ground up sand and rock minerals. Silt like sand contains few nutrients, but it can have nutrients clinging to its surface.

Silt is between sand and clay in terms of size.

Clay: Clays are aluminum-silicate minerals that also have varying amounts of nutrients important to plants such as potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, etc. A good part of a soil's native fertility can come from its clay portion.

Clay particles are the smallest of the three soil mineral components and they have a negative charge which makes them attract all positive charged plant nutrients. This helps trace elements stay in the soil rather than being constantly leached away.

Too much clay can result in harder tilling, compaction (Lack of air) & poor drainage.
Organic Matter:

Organic matter in the soil includes plant and animal residues at various stages of decomposition. There are also the cells and tissues of soil organisms and substances synthesised by plant roots and soil microorganisms. It is estimated that organic matter makes up about 5% of most common soils. Despite this small proportion, organic matter has a remarkable effects on soil behavior and crop yields. Organic matter in the soil is frequently in the form of humus, partially decomposed organic matter that has become dark and crumbly and continues decomposing at a slow rate.
Biology:

While not actually a component of soil in the traditional sense, that is, mineral based there is a huge living component of soil. This includes the microorganisms in the soil, the earth worms and the myriad of other living things which help process organic and inorganic matter into soil. If we are to look at soil as a Gestalt then we must include the soil biology.

Here is a good link explaining what soil is which can be used for further reading if desired:


What are soil amendments?

Soil amendments are added to a planting medium in order to provide plants with various nutrients.

Guano. Dried poo. May be either from bats or birds. Guano is available in high Nitrogen, high Phosphorous and balanced formulations. Guano will burn your plants, so use conservatively.

Worm Castings. Worm poo. An excellent source of micronutrients. Also, a supplemental source of Nitrogen. Castings ought to be in every soilless mix. They will not burn your plants, and, when cut with perlite and vermiculite, make a fine medium in their own right.

Bone Meal. As the name implies, this is ground up bones from the slaughter house. Bone meal provides phosphorous. Will attract animals to your grow if used outside. Will attract pets if used inside.

Blood Meal. Again, made from animal blood on the slaughter house floor. A source of nitrogen. Also, attracts animals to your grow. Particularly odiferous. Blood meal will burn your plants, so use conservatively.

Kelp Meal. Made from dried and ground seaweed. If made from ascophyllum nodosum, provides a growth hormone which promotes rapid growth of both roots and foliage. Also contains trace elements and enzymes.

Perlite. A non-porous volcanic byproduct, perlite is pH neutral and improves the drainage of planting mediums.

Vermiculite. A porous volcanic byproduct, capable of nutrient and cation exchange.

Dolomite lime. Frequently used in planting mediums to offset acidity, that is, lime raises pH. Dolomite lime is slower acting and more buffered than hydrated lime.


How can I test for soil texture at home?

One of the most popular home tests for measuring the percentage of sand, silt, and clay involves nothing more sophisticated than a quart or litre glass jar with lid and a ruler. It is based on the rate these different particle types settle in water. The large, boulder shaped sand particles settle the fastest, followed by the smaller particles of silt, and then followed by the very small and flattened particles of clay.

Collect about 2 cups (500 ml) of soil to be tested and pick out the bulk of the organic matter. Let the sample dry in the sun and break up any clumps by tapping with a hammer. Put about 3/4 cup (200 ml) of the soil sample into the glass jar, fill almost to the top with water, cap the jar and shake vigorously for five minutes.

Let the jar sit undisturbed for 24 hours and measure the depth of the settled soil with the ruler. This is the total amount of soil particles. Shake the jar again for an additional 5 minutes and allow it to stand for 40 seconds. Measure the settled soil. This is the amount of sand in the sample.

Keep the jar undisturbed and measure the settled soil at the end of 30 minutes. This is the amount of sand and silt together. Subtract the amount of sand from that total for the amount of silt. Subtract the amount of sand and silt together from the total amount of soil particles to obtain the amount of clay.

Percentage of sand = (depth of sand/total depth) * 100
Percentage of silt = (depth of silt/total depth) * 100
Percentage of clay = (depth of clay/total depth) * 100


I'm a beginner and need a simple and easy soilless mix.

From your local Hydro store get some Promix, vermiculite and Perlite.
Mix in the portions of 50% promix, 35% perlite and 15% vermiculite. This mix is nice and loose and will promote great and fast root growth. All though it doesn't retain water that well it is good for beginners because it will help safeguard against over watering. Plus if a beginner runs into problems with PH or over fertilization the properties of this soil make it quick and easy to remedy.


Using Coco as a Substrate


Coco produces excellent results for the soilless grower; it is comparable in result to hydroponics systems.

It is a great alternative to the soil grower willing to experiment with a ?soilless? medium, yet get comparable results to a hydro grow.

Coco can be used in a hydroponics system, or just put into pots and watered by hand as with any other soil grow. Countless grows for decades have been produced in plain soil, mixed with organics, compost, and perlite among untold other ingredients thrown in.




While soil does have its advantages, it also has more drawbacks: inconsistancy, unwanted (unknown) ingredients, increased chances of over-fertilizing and over-watering. Nearly all of the potting soil used has been sourced from nature contain larva and insect eggs.

*Pics shown which I grew in Coco are only 30 days into flowering, 60 days old from seed, with an intentional N def. They are not as yellow as shown. I have provided them to show the crystal/pistil covering bud/leaves more common to hydro in this stage of flowering, yet grown in coco-filled pots



The Definition of Coco
Many at first are misled by the use of the term Coco. It has nothing to do with the Cocoa plant at all. In reality, they are the brown fibers that make up the husk of a coconut, which have been washed and buffered. Pure Coco can be used as a substrate, or Coco can also be mixed in with soil.

It can be bought loose in bags; it is also pressed into planks (and bricks). Coconuts are found near beaches, oceans, places that have very salty air. To rid the coco of these salts, the coco is first washed, and then pressure steamed to get rid of salts, and bacteria, germs or anything else that might have been in it. Coco is buffered using water, enriched with Magnesium and lime. The quality of this treatment is dependant to the quality of the Coco. Coconuts cannot be bought from a store, pealed, and mixed into your soil.

(Edit: low quality coco may need to be washed to remove natural salts.)

Coco and PH
The buffering process also means easy adjustment of pH in the Coco, which is imperative when it comes to the optimum uptake of nutrients throughout the plant?s life.

Soil PH can be hard to change, since it takes time to correct, flow check and restore. It takes longer to correct the problem in soil, than it took to cause it.

The PH of fresh Coco is marked on the bag from 5.0 - 7.0, however all of the coco I've tested was always between 6.0 - 6.5. Changing the PH of Coco takes a few waterings of pH-adjusted water, perhaps only one. The medium is very reactive to the PH of the water given to it; this gives coco growers rapid control over pH.

What is important is that you use 6.0 - 7.0 pH water, 6.5 being optimal if in pots.

Oxygen and Coco
Soil has a tendency to become finer after time. The clumps of soil quickly disintegrate, leaving very fine pieces of matter which hold moisture, creating saturated spots, making the soil less and less aerated for roots over the plant?s life. The soil at the bottom of the pots can become a very hostile environment for the roots to grow, making roots suffocate in mud. Coco users rarely find this a problem. Coco almost never disintegrates, leaving the medium well aerated, supplying the roots constantly with enough oxygen, and all saturated spots quickly even out.

Reusing Coco
Another advantage of Coco is the fact it can be re-used. Because Coco is treated so well, you can get up to three grows from the same batch of coco. Coco is inert and does not absorb nutrients within its own fibers, so plants uptake only supplied nutrient-rich water; excess nutrients and salts are washed through with the overflow.

I paid 8 Euros for a 50 Liter bag of coco. 24 Euros in Coco, and I can fill a total of 9 seventeen Liter pots (4.5 gallon) 3 times over. Those 27 plants could go through flowering, and only averaged to .88 euro per pot in coco.

Before reusing coco, you must sift through the Coco looking for any loose root fragments, missed decaying leaves, ect. and remove them.

Advantages and drawbacks
Coco overall has many distinct advantages over soil. I have yet to grow a plant in Coco that hasn?t reached 2-2.5 feet in just 1 month from seed, without any stretching until later in life (without Topping or Fimming). The evenness of watering and the quick and direct changes of pH compares to hydro. The cost isn?t that steep because it can be reused up to 3 times, making the average cost (for myself) .24 cents US currency per US gallon. Well, after using coco, I?ll never use normal potting soil ever again

The only drawback to Coco I have found is that a massive root ball forms very quick while in veg., all my plants were detrimentally root bound in 7 Liter (1.85) gallons of coco after only 3 weeks of growth from seed. If you are ready for the growth, being in pots, and hesitant at all to go hydro with supplies and adjustments, it's just a small hurdle for all the benefits.


What do you mean by soilless mix: what is it?

A soilless mix is a mixture of components in which it is possible to grow a plant but which does not contain soil in the traditional sense, that is, no garden soil or compost.

Here is a simple example of a Soilless mix:

50% Perlite
50% Vermiculite

Here's another:

Contributed by moonrawk

40% Castings (Worm i presume although the author does not specify)
30% Vermiculite
30% Perlite

Here however is a warning on Soilless mixes which it is important to note.

Contributed by happy

IF you happen to miss a couple of waterings the plant can dry out quick because the mix will not hold much moisture. Soil is much easier and will provide nutrients throughout the grow, lessening the need for ferts.

contributed by glass joe>> Soilless mediums can contain peat moss (like pro-mix)as an ingredient along with worm castings, perlite, etc.


What is root-bound?

Root-bound is where the roots of your plant outgrow the container they are contained in.

The following symptoms may be observed if you allow your plants to become root-bound:

1. 1. Stunted Growth.
   2. Stretching.
   3. Smaller and slower bud production.
   4. Needs watering too often.
   5. Easy to burn with low % nutrient solution mixtures.
   6. Wilting.
   
   Here are two ways to remove your plant:
   Before you start, always run a transplanting trowel or a long, flexible knife (dedicated for gardening only) between the old pot and your plant's root-ball.
   
   For a root-bound plant with a strong, woody stem: hold the stem firmly and lift up so the pot is off the ground. Tap down around the pot rim with a rubber hammer or piece of wood until the pot lets go.
   
   Another way is to turn the plant and pot upside down, holding the plant so it won't crash on the ground when it comes free of the pot. Make sure there's enough clearance to the ground, or you'll smash your plant. (One way to do this: cut a cardboard disk the size of the pot opening, cut a slit to accommodate the plant stem and slip the disk over the top of the pot before turning the pot upside down). Have your friend or family member pull upward on the pot. If you're working alone, tap the rim down on the edge of a table or bench. You may have to do this all around the rim before the roots let go of the pot. (The plant may come free from the pot all at once, so hold on!)
   
   Once you've freed the plant from its old pot, inspect its roots, if the roots run in a tight circle around the outside of the root ball, you got there just in time. Dig your fingers into the outside 1/2" of these circular roots, loosen the ends up and pull them gently outward. If the roots are very tight, cut two or three 1/2" incisions from top to bottom on the outside of the root-ball. (Space the cuts around the root-ball.) This process may seem cruel, but it gives the roots an opportunity to stop their circular growth habit and begin to grow outward.
   
   If the roots are extremely tight, slice a thin layer off the outside of the entire root-ball. Set the root-ball into its new pot, hold the foliage out of the way and add soil. Do not forcefully pack this new soil as you want the soil to be settled (with no air pockets) but loose enough to allow root penetration. One way to achieve this is to water the new soil in layers as you add it and this is also a great time to add SUPERTHRIVE.
   
   Do not cover the top of the root-ball with a thick layer of new soil; IMO the surface of the old root-ball should also be the surface in the new pot. Once your plant is settled into its new pot, clean the foliage as dust keeps light from reaching the leaves and makes the plant more susceptible to mites and other pests. Make sure all H.I.D lights are switched off and give your indoor plant a shower in lukewarm water or dust the leaves with a soft, damp cloth.
   
   Outdoor plants can be sprayed with a garden hose or spray bottle. If the potting soil you used doesn't contain fertilizer and you didn't add a root stimulator/fertilizer solution, give the plant a light feeding of diluted fertilizer. It is important that your newly re-potted plant receives the right level of light, newly re-potted plants will suffer if placed directly under your H.I.D lights or in direct sunlight. It may take a up to 2 weeks for your plant to become accustomed to its new accommodations so until you begin to see signs of new growth use reduced levels of light.

 

What is nutrient lockout?

Nutrient lockout happens when your plant can not access specific, or all nutrients in the growing medium, this is due to a chemical reaction within the medium/solution which prevents nutrients from being absorbed by the roots.

Aged nutrients can precipitate in the bottle, causing some of the ingredients to become solids or even evaporate, the same problem may also occur in the growing medium.

Lockout will display the same symptoms as nutrient deficiency; to help control this problem dispose of old liquid feed containers as you would old medicine and use fresh nutrients from a bottle that has been recently opened.

The following points can also be responsible for nutrient lockout.

• PH is incorrect or fluctuates.
  
  
• Single pack hydroponic solutions.
  
  
• Salt build up.
  
  
• A chemical reaction between 2 or more nutrient
  solutions that are mixed together.
  
  

For acute deficiency symptoms caused by toxicity and nutrient lockout a first Aid program should be immediately administered.


Step 1)
Leach the plants roots and growing medium using a professional leaching agent to thoroughly leach away metals, calcium, sodium, chlorides, sulphates and many other compounds, which can build up in the growing media.

Step 2)
Feed with 1/4 strength high quality complete plant food mix along with a high quality vitamin B-1 product such as Superthrive (1 drop per gallon).

Step 3)
Spray a professional stay green formula on the leaves. After 24hrs, spray the leaves with a quality vitamin B-1 product.
Feed at 25% of recommended fertilizer dosage until first signs of growth.


How can I measure the pH of soil/soilless runoff?

Measuring the pH of soil is just as important as with hydro applications, but few people know how to test soil pH to see if it is within the optimum range for growing robust healthy plants. Here I will try to explain my method of testing any soil / soilless mix, enabling me to spot any problems and correct them if necessary.

Firstly, wait till your soil has dried out and is due for its next watering schedule. Then take some plain water that you usually water your garden with, and adjust the pH to 7.0. You must make sure that you know the exact pH of the water going into your soil, and the neutral 7.0 is best, but anywhere from 6.5 – 7.0 will suffice.

Then place your pot into a bowl of some sort to catch the runoff water, and then start to water your soil slowly (with your pH- corrected plain water) till the water starts to drip from the bottom.
It's the first drops of water that will give you the best reading of your soil, so make sure to water slowly till you see the first droplets. Then remove the pot from the bowl to eliminate excess water entering the bowl. Then perform the pH test on the runoff and compare it too your initial test.
The results of the runoff test will likely be lower than your starting value of 7.0. If this is the case, a small drop of 0.5 pH to 6.5 pH (example) would be ok and your soil needs no further alterations at the moment. But that's not to say that it won't need any future tests at all, just not at this time.

[Editor's note: It may be beneficial to obtain an initial sample, as well as a ‘full flush' sample in seperate bowls. In addition, test several plants in the garden just to verify your results]

What if the pH is off?
If your results prove to have dropped considerably, say to around 5.5 (which can happen in late stages of flowering), you will need to add some lime into your soil to help buffer the pH back up again.

Remove the first inch or so of soil, taking care not to damage any roots whilst performing this task. Then sprinkle the lime into the pot, nice and evenly at a rate of 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of lime per gallon of soil. Then replace the soil you removed earlier, and saturate the soil good to wash in the lime.

Do the same test next time your plants need watering just to check that everything is fine, if more lime needs to be added then just repeat the process again till you reach close to 6.5 – 7.0 with the runoff.

Ensuring that your pH is correct should be done throughout the life cycle; this will help eliminate any nutrient lockout that may occur. I recommend doing this once a month just to keep the PH in check, and you should never have a problem with deficiencies caused by pH lockout.


What are Water-Absorbent Polymers and how do I use them?

A polymer is a string of repeating molecules that forms a long chain. DNA is a polymer, as are starches, proteins, etc. For example, casein - the protein that makes cow's milk - is a polymer. About 30 years ago the plastics industry was looking to change the negative image people have of the word plastics, and pick up on a friendly sounding name to confound the public so they started calling a wide-range of their plastic products 'polymers'.

Water-absorbent polymers (also known as hydro-gel, water crystals, super absorbent polymers, etc) - are simply a type of plastic that possesses some unique water absorbing qualities.

What makes this polymer water absorbent is the presence of sodium or potassium molecules that form bridges between the long hydrocarbon chains. These bridges - known as cross-linking - enable the polymer to form into a huge single super-molecule (desirable for a number of reasons), including its ability to degrade in the environment and break-down into simpler molecules, and hold significant amounts of water. The polymer crystals that you purchase, whether the size is small, medium, or large, will always be a single molecule (making it very difficult for you to chop up large crystals into smaller crystals - try it in a coffee grinder sometime.)

All water-absorbent polymers are cross-linked, and cannot work if they are not cross-linked. It is often written on labels to make it sound like a "feature" - don't be tricked into paying more for polymers that are labeled as being "cross-linked".

How are they used?

Water absorbent polymers (hereafter referred to as just polymers) can be used for two purposes: to store and hold water to add an extra few days between watering; or alternatively, to protect your plants from over-watering - especially if they are planted in an area that tends to pool water.

Are there different types of super-absorbent polymers?

There are about 800 to 1000 different recipes for these polymers - but they are divided into two big categories: polyarcylamide and polyacrylate.

Polyacrylate (called in the industry PAC) are used in disposable diapers, sanitary napkins, etc. and are capable of holding a huge amount of water - between 600 and 800 times its weight (purity of the water determines this range - the more dissolved solids in the water, the less liquid the polymers can hold).

Polyacrylates are usually made with sodium and are more environmentally friendly, breaking down first into ammonia salts and then nitrogen and CO2 in about 4 to 6 months. They are often sold with an environmentally friendly green label and retail for around $10 to $12 per pound.

In contrast, polyacrylamides (often known as PAM) absorb only about 300 - 400 times its own weight in water, use a variety of potassium molecules for cross-linking, and take between 5 and 7 years to completely breakdown. Because of the lower absorbency and longer time to breakdown, polyacrylamides usually sell for around $6 to $8 per pound.


Do polymers affect the taste?

Do water absorbing polymers affect the taste of finished marijuana?
I experimented with the use of polymers on my canola farm over a period of years, and have grown cannabis in extreme drought conditions using these crystals.

Growers have reported that these polymers adversely affect the taste of the finished product. Many others have reported no impact on the taste of the quality of the smoke. This debate and the difference of opinion is due to the type of polymer used.

Polyacrylates will negatively impact the taste of cannabis. As noted, polyacrylates take approximately 4 to 6 months to completely break down - with intermediary chemicals including ammonia salts, nitrogen (nitrites), and CO2. This breakdown usually happens when most growers are flushing their plants - and it is the plant absorbing this residue that negatively impacts the taste, including a variety of sodium by-products.

In contrast users of polyacrylamides - which take 5 to 7 years to break down - will not be introducing intermediary residual chemicals to their plants, and will not notice any impact on taste or quality of the smoke.

Given a choice between the two - it is strongly recommended that growers use the less absorbent polyacrylamide.

How do I tell if the polymer is polyacrylate or polyacrylamide? (if there is no label)

If you cannot buy from a recommended online supplier, and are buying locally, look for these four clues to distinguish products: absorbency, price, "environmental friendly", and a "safe for food crops" label.

Polyacrylates (the one you want to avoid), report absorbency of 600 to 800 times its weight, cost around $12 Cdn per pound, and almost always have on the label "Environmentally friendly".

In contrast, polyacrylamides are labeled as absorbing 300 - 400 times its own weight, are priced at $6 - $8 Cdn per pound, and may have a note on its label that reads "Safe for Agriculture and Food Crops". Only certain polyacrylamides (and very few polyacrylates) can be labeled as safe for food crops.

Can you recommend a reliable source for polyacrylamides?

The web site is : Watersorb

This is a non-profit - native American run business. Their customer service is absolutely great. This is a statement taken from their web page: "WaterSorb.com is an American Indian owned and operated corporation dedicated to restoring and improving the environment through technology, and meets all qualifications as a SBA 8 (a) minority owned corporation."

Their prices are the best you will find too - $12 for 2 pounds; $26 for 5 lbs - delivered anywhere in the USA. They are very good people to deal with and understand your needs.

An international package - 4 lbs delivered to Canada or anywhere in the world is available for $24.50 US from the same website - in the international section.

{Edit - changed international price to reflect recent shipping price increase. The FAQ author has purchased from this company for several years and service is excellent. They also have a very informative web site that will provide additional information on polymers.}

What size do I buy?

Avoid the powder, it is difficult to mix thoroughly. Likewise, the large size is also difficult to work with and to mix thoroughly with the soil. Both tend to cause the roots to clump up and bind around the polymers rather than grow outwards and search for water in the natural soil environment. Improper use of either of these sizes actually diminishes performance characteristics.

If you are growing indoor with a soil mix (perlite, etc), in fine sandy soil, or where water pooling is a problem, use the small grade as an amendment.

If you are growing in heavy soil or in drought conditions use the medium size. Why? In sandy light or fast draining soils you are most likely using the polymer to slow the rate of water drainage and you want to maximize the probability of water contacting the polymer and being absorbed.

In heavier soils and in drought conditions the medium grade is better for several reasons. One characteristic immediately noticeable when growing in drought affected areas is that the soil tends to harden and compact. There are several reasons for this - earthworms and other insects are not living in the top couple feet of soil and do not work and loosen the soil; plants can't live naturally in drought, and the absence of a good root system causes the soil to compact; and finally, the heat itself causes the soil to expand slightly and fill the gaps that might have once existed.

Because the medium size polymers expand rapidly when they absorb water and contract when they release the water to the plant or environment - this expansion and contraction helps work and loosen the soil and promotes good root growth in what would otherwise be a very difficult environment.

How much do I use?

Consider that one cup of dried polymers (250 ml) will absorb 100 liters of water (about 24 US gallons). This would likely launch your plant out of its hole in a matter of minutes!

That said, an appropriate amount will be significantly less - between a teaspoon and a quarter cup of crystals. It all depends on your environmental conditions. In drought situations (no rain for more than 28-days), you want a lot of polymer crystals to absorb any water they come in contact with - and it is unlikely that any single polymer will absorb its maximum potential. A couple tablespoons to 1/4 cup of polymers is recommended for this sort of environment. In more "normal" meteorological conditions - a rainfall every seven to ten days - your objective is likely to minimize stress between rainfalls - and one to two teaspoons would be the more than enough.

How do I use them?

The optimum use involves some experimentation for your soil and growing conditions. As a general rule of thumb, this method worked well for the FAQ author in extreme drought conditions (no rain for 60-days). First - make a deep hole - at least 3 feet (80 cm). An 8-inch posthole auger is very good for this as it completely eliminates the back-breaking work of shoveling - and if you are lucky enough to use a power auger - it will be very fast too.

Back fill about 6-inches (15 cm) into the hole and sprinkle a tablespoon of medium-grade polymers over the soil. Continue backfilling another 6-12 inches and gently work the polymers into the soil. Make the soil wet with a couple liters of water and wait a few minutes. This will allow the polymers to absorb the water and expand.

In the next 12 inches (30 cm) add any amendments plus another tablespoon of polymers - pack the soil hard and when finished add another couple liters of water. With the final soil - add your soil mixes and at most a third application of polymers - about a half teaspoon maximum, moisten with a liter or two of water, and insert your plant. Do not fill your hole to ground level with the soil - you will need to leave at least a couple inches (5 cm) for expansion and heaving. The slight depression also acts as a natural pooling for water in the environment - which is important in drought environments.

As an added drought protection measure, use a brown grocery store paper bag as a liner for the hole (and mix the third half teaspoon of polymers in the soil in the paper bag). The paper bag slows the drainage rate significantly - and takes about a month or two to dissolve, in time to let the roots reach the deeper levels of polymers.

How many days will I be able to go between watering if I use polymers?

There is no real answer to this question because it depends on the environment and the plants themselves. In hot dry environments, the plants will transpire and loose moisture rapidly as compared to more humid dry environments. Dry wind also has an impact on the rate that plants transpire. Evening and night temperatures also impact the length of time that the polymers can hold water.

It is best to experiment and observe your plants, but as a general rule of thumb, if used correctly, the polymers should buy an extra three to five days between when you would normally water.

I once went 21 days between heavy watering in a severe drought situation. The plants with polymers, while definitely heat stressed, did not die; whereas plants without polymers did not survive this 21-day period of neglect.


Maximizing root growth in soil containers



Root growth/mass(all other factors being equal).

Space is also one of the major concerns for indoor growers, who generally cannot move to bigger and bigger pots to allow for bigger root masses.

However, a lot of container space often goes unused, because roots will not grow into the top inches of soil that are often dried out from powerful lights and low humidity. In addition, since MJ soils are typically very airy and light, when watering the top inches of soil are easily disturbed as the dirt is pushed and moved around by the water. This also inhibits roots from growing into the top inches of soil.


In a 1 foot tall pot the top 3 inches of soil will not allow root growth, you are wasting 25% of your soil mass that could be used for roots. In pots that are wider at the top than the bottom, this wasted soil could be even greater!

How then to use this soil? We need to prevent the soil from being disturbed and keep it moist, and hydro growers have been using an ideal product for this for a long time - Hydroton clay balls!

1. Hydroton clay balls are LIGHT.
They won't compact your soil the way putting pebbles on top would.



2. A layer of hydroton clay balls on top of the soil will help the soil underneath it lose moisture through evaporation and low humidity.

By adding a layer of hydroton on top of the soil, soil disturbance is prevented since the water does not directly touch the soil until it has filtered through the layer of hydroton balls. Soil moisture is then trapped underneath the hydroton and less likely to evaporate due to heat and/or low humidity.

This way it is possible to grow plants with roots stretching up all the way to the top of the soil. Those roots will rapidly provide nutrition to the plant when it is watered. It also will help the plant be able to go a longer time without watering since moisture that would have been lost to evaporation is now available to the plant.

Note:
Use a root stimulator during veg growth to help accelerate the root growth process and make sure there is a strong root mass in flowering. The last things you want in flower are wimpy roots (unless you want wimpy yields).












What is the Soil Food Web?

Unseen beneath our feet, there dwells a teeming microscopic universe of complex living organisms that few humans ever consider. In one teaspoon of soil alone, there may he over 600 million bacterial cells. These bacterial cells exist in complex predator-prey relationships with countless other diverse organisms. This topsoil food web forms the foundation for healthy soil, healthy plants, and ultimately, a healthy planet.

The soil food web is the community of organisms living all or part of their lives in the soil. The food web has a basic set of expected organisms groups, but the numbers of organisms and different species in each group can vary significantly by plant and soil type. Photosynthesizing living plant material provides the initial energy to the soil food system through their roots. Living plant roots exude many types of complex high-energy nutrient molecules into the surrounding soil. Dead plant material is decomposed by bacteria and fungi, building up even greater numbers of these organisms and their metabolic products. As a plant grows, photosynthesis supplies much more than the individual plant's carbohydrate requirements. It has been documented that plant roots can exude over 50 percent of the carbon fixed through photosynthesis in the form of simple sugars, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, and other complex carbohydrates.

photosynthesis
pho•to•syn•the•size - synthesis of chemical compounds with the aid of radiant energy and especially light; : formation of carbohydrates from carbon dioxide and a source of hydrogen (as water) in the chlorophyll-containing tissues of plants exposed to light


ORGANIC SOIL STRUCTURE
Around plant roots, bacteria form a slimy layer. They produce waste products that glue soil particles and organic matter together in small, loose clumps called aggregates. Threading between these aggregates and binding them together are fine ribbon-like strands of fungal hyphae, which further define and stabilize the soil into macro aggregates. It is this aggregated soil structure, which looks a bit like spongy chocolate cake that effectively resists compaction and erosion and promotes optimal plant and microbial growth. Water and air are also stored in the aggregate pores until needed.


MYCORRHIZAL FUNG
Mycorrhizal fungi are especially effective in providing nutrients to plant roots. These are certain types of fungi that actually colonize the outer cells of plant roots, but also extend long fungal threads, or hyphae, far out into the rhizosphere, forming a critical link between the plant roots and the soil. Mycorrhizae produce enzymes that decompose organic matter, solubilize phosphorus and other nutrients from inorganic rock, and convert nitrogen into plant available forms. They also greatly expand the soil area from which the plant can absorb water. In return for this activity, mycorrhizae obtain valuable carbon and other nutrients from the plant roots. This is a win-win mutualism between both partners, with the plant providing food for the fungus and the fungus providing both nutrients and water to the plant. The importance of mycorrhizae in plant productivity and health has often been overlooked. EXAMPLE Pines are not native to Puerto Rico and therefore the appropriate mycorrhizal fungi were absent in the soil. For years, people unsuccessfully tried to establish pines on the island. The pine seeds would germinate well and grow to heights of 8 to 10 cm but then would rapidly decline. In 1955, soil was taken from North Carolina pine forests, and the Puerto Rico plantings were inoculated. Within one year, all inoculated seedlings were thriving, while the un-inoculated control plants were dead. Microscopic analysis showed that the healthy seedlings were well colonized by a vigorous mycorrhizal population. While the benefits of mycorrhizae is not always as dramatic, it has been well documented that mycorrhizal plants are often more competitive and better able to tolerate environmental stress.

mycorrhizal
my•cor•rhi•zal
The symbiotic association of the mycelium of a fungus with the roots of a seed plant.

hyphae (plural of hypha)
hy•ph•ae
The microscopic, non-photosynthetic branching filaments that collectively form the feeding structure of a fungus called the mycelium.

rhizosphere
rhi•zo•sphere
The soil surrounding and directly influenced by plant roots and micro-organisms.


COMPOST ADVANTAGES
Compost in particular can improve soil nutritional availability and soil tilth because of its complex microbial population. Composts bring with them a wide array of bacteria, fungi, protozoa, nematodes and micro arthropods, along with the food resources needed to feed these organisms. However, not all composts have the same beneficial effects. There are many different types of composts, as determined by their original ingredients and their degree of maturity. The greater the diversity of food resources in the original composted material, the greater the diversity of microorganisms that can grow in that compost. Soil from potted plants may be composted in the fall and used again the following year. It is advantageous to leave the roots in the soil rather than removing them, fostering the presence of beneficial rhizoshperic organisms.


SOIL DISTURBANCE
In general, the largest soil organisms are the first damaged by soil compaction and disturbance. These include earthworms and small insects, which are at the top of the soil food web and are essential to keeping microbial populations in balance. When these organisms are lost, an otherwise undisturbed soil will have the tendency to shift from being fungal dominated to being more bacterially dominated. This will alter nutrient availability and soil structure, effectively limiting the types of plants that can grow. Some species of anaerobic bacteria thrive in a soil deprived of oxygen and can produce chemical metabolites, such as alcohols, aldehydes, phenols and ethylene, that are toxic to plant roots and to other microorganisms. As compaction continues to eliminate pore space, plant roots have difficulty obtaining sufficient water, air and nutrients, placing them under considerable stress. This stress, added to the shift in beneficial organisms, will create a situation where plant pathogens may increase rapidly and cause serious problems. No-till gardening methods can be very useful in minimizing soil disturbance. When re-potting plants of any kind, minimal disturbance to the root structure and soil is essential.


DISEASE SUPPRESSION
Dr. Ingham and others in her field have found that plant roots, well colonized by a mixture of different bacterial and fungal species, are far more resistant to pathogenic attack. Mycorrhizal fungi form an impenetrable physical barrier on the surface of plant roots, varying in thickness, density and fungal species, according to the plant species, plant health and soil conditions.

This layer of beneficial fungi plays a powerful role in disease suppression, both through simple physical interference as well as through the production of inhibitory products. Some species of fungi that parasitize other fungi, such as Trichoderma, have been observed physically attacking and destroying pathogenic fungi. Dr. William Albrecht reported that Fusarium, a fungal species often maligned in its role in many plant diseases, could actually be one of the most common beneficial saprophytes in a healthy soil. He stated that the dividing line between beneficial symbiosis and parasitism could be very narrow. When Fusarium encounters a root that is poorly nourished or is under stress, it can become rapidly pathogenic.

In healthy soil, unaltered by the application of lethal agricultural chemicals, “microherds” groups of microbes colonize the root zone or the rhizosphere of the plant. Most are beneficial bacteria and fungi; they do not damage living plant tissue and are critical to making essential minerals available to the plant. These microbes retain large amounts of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, sulfur, calcium, iron and many micronutrients in their bodies, preventing these nutrients from being leached or removed by water runoff. Ideally, they out-compete pathogenic species and form a protective layer on the surface of living plant roots. It is usually only when the beneficial species of bacteria and fungi are killed by continuous soil disturbance and toxic chemicals that pathogenic species have an advantage.


HERBICIDES, PESTICIDES
& FERTILIZERS
As part of her research, Dr. Ingham has shown that herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers have many non-target effects. The most common pesticides are fairly broad spectrum; that is, they kill much more than the target species. Residual pesticides that accumulate in soil over many years may recombine and form new, unintentional chemicals that have additional and often synergistic negative effects. Out of the 650 active ingredients used to formulate most common agricultural pesticides, only about 75 have been studied to deter mine their effects on soil organisms. The remaining ingredients have never been studied for their effects on the whole system or on any non-target group.

Scientists don't fully understand the effect of any in individual ingredient on soil life, much less the synergistic effects of the ingredients, or combinational effects with inert or soil materials. It is hardly surprising that a soil treated with numerous agricultural chemicals lacks a healthy food web. When inorganic ammonium nitrate fertilizer is applied to agricultural soil, ammonium and nitrate ions are rapidly released into the soil solution. Nitrate ions are negatively charged and can be quite mobile. The result is that a large percentage of these nitrogen-containing ions may move rapidly out of the plant root zone (rhizosphere) and into the groundwater. This produces not only reduced plant growth but also environmental pollution. Plants growing in unhealthy soil require additional fertilizers and pesticides, furthering the deadly spiral.


PLANT GROWTH REGULATOR COMPOUNDS
In return for the release of nutritional substances from plant roots, microbes themselves produce chemicals that stimulate plant growth or protect the plant from attack. These substances include auxins, enzymes, vitamins, amino acids, indoles and antibiotics. These complex molecules are able to pass from the soil into plant cells and be transported to other parts of the plant, with minimal change to chemical structure, where they can stimulate plant growth and enhance plant reproduction. They may also play a role in enhancing the nutritional composition of the plant. The types of molecules released are specific for a variety of plants grown under certain conditions, forming in effect a unique chemical signature. As these molecules are released into the rhizosphere, they serve as food and growth stimulants for a certain mix of microbes. Dr. Joyce Loper, of the USDA Agricultural Research Service, and other scientists have shown that for each plant species, this characteristic chemical soup stimulates the development of a select, beneficial company of root-dwelling microbes. This microbial population colonizes the root zone, producing certain chemicals that inhibit the growth of pathogenic species. These organisms are also instrumental in supplying the plant's unique nutritional needs.


NUTRIENT CYCLING & RETENTION
Plants require many different mineral ions for optimal growth. These must be obtained from the soil. Many nutrient ions are solubilized from the parent rock material in a process known as mineralization. Bacteria and fungi produce enzymes and acids necessary to break down inorganic minerals and to convert them into stable organic forms. Other nutrients are released through the decomposition of organic matter. In all cases, a healthy, diverse microbial population will develop with rapid decomposition of organic material and will facilitate the recycling of nutrients. Organic matter is also electrically charged and therefore critical to its ability to attract and hold many different nutrient ions. The higher the organic matter in the soil, the greater the ion holding capacity, resulting in reduced leaching of either an ions or cations from the soil.

There is much competition for nitrogen among soil organisms. Those organisms that have the best enzymes for grabbing nitrogen are usually the winners. Bacteria possess the most effective nitrogen-grabbing enzyme system, closely followed by many species of fungi. Plant enzyme systems do not produce enzymes that operate outside the plant and cannot compete well when there is strong competition for limited nitrogen resources. In a healthy soil, this does not mean that the plant will be deprived of adequate nitrogen. Bacteria require one nitrogen atom to balance every five carbon atoms, and fungi require 10 carbons for each nitrogen. Therefore, the predator organisms that eat bacteria and fungi get too much nitrogen for the carbon they require. Since excess nitrogen is toxic, is excreted as a body waste product back into the soil in a form that can be absorbed by plant roots. Nitrogen is not the only nutrient effectively stored and recycled by soil microbes. Carbon is the major constituent of all cells. When soils are depleted of organic matter and healthy microbial populations, the ability of a soil to hold carbon is destroyed and it enters the atmosphere as carbon dioxide, now recognized as one of the greenhouse gases that are responsible for breaking down the ozone layer.

There is little scientific evidence that bacteria and fungi simply die and decompose. If another bacteria or fungus uses the dead cells for a food source, there is no release of nitrogen. It is only when a predator consumes excessive amounts of nitrogen in the dead cells that it is released into the soil solution. It is this system of nitrogen cycling that has worked brilliantly for the past million years.


SUMMARY
HOW IS THIS INFORMATION USEFULL TO YOU AS A GROWER?
Mycorrhizal fungi will colonize the rhizosphere
of any plant, given the right conditions. These fungi are as diverse as the stars in the sky, and many fungi are plant specific, some are not. We have had great success with MJ inoculated with SC-27, developed by Dr. Frank McKenna of Australia. We have also witnessed mycelium from fungi on MJ roots, visible to the naked eye, develop over time with no inoculation.

The problem with MJ, and so many plants, is that they are being grown outside of their native soil environment, much like the southern pines in Puerto Rico. Some plants adapt more readily to foreign environments than others and are less dependent on the symbiotic relationship that exists between plant and fungi. In nature, plants grow in the same soil season after season, developing a "relationship" so to speak with soil and its microscopic inhabitants.

It should be noted, that the regeneration of soil is beneficial to the cultivation of fungi and bacteria. (Composting old soil from pots) The benefits of organic cultivation simply cannot be measured. Try as we might, there is no improving on Mother Nature.


Treating old soil

INTRODUCTION:

Occasionally everyone gets a bad batch of soil...you all know what I\'m talking about. You\'re finally ready for your transplant so you open up your bag of rich, organic soil only to find it\'s filled with fungus gnats or some other unwelcome pest. Soil-borne fungi and nematodes can be very destructive to your crops, causing seed rot, seedling diseases, and vascular wilts.

TREATMENTS:

There are various ways to treat soil that is infested. The safest and most popular method is Heat Treatment. Various soil fumigants exist which create a toxic environment in the soil and will remain toxic for a few weeks or more depending on what kind of fumigant is used.

“Sterilizing” is actually a misnomer, since complete sterilization would completely eliminate every living thing in the soil, creating a “biological vacuum”. This “vacuum” would then give an accidentally reintroduced disease-causing organisms the opportunity to multiply and spread rapidly, causing a severe disease situation.

Instead, treatments can be used that will eliminate the undesirable organisms, but leave many of the harmless or beneficial soil organisms (called pasteurization). This remaining microbial population will compete with any introduced troublemaker and help prevent it from becoming established and spreading rapidly in the treated soil.

Heat Treatment

Temperature control is CRITICAL when heat treating soils. Overheating or under heating can lead undesirable results. Most disease-causing fungi are killed by a 30-minute treatment at 140F.

Plant parasitic bacteria, most plant viruses, and soil insects are killed at 160F for 30 minutes, and most weed seeds between 160 and 180F for 30 minutes.

Remember: the higher the treatment temperature, the greater the number of beneficial organisms that will also be killed.

DO NOT OVERHEAT! Chemicals toxic to plant growth can be produced in soils when temperatures reach around 212F (boiling point of water and temperature of steam). This more commonly occurs with soils having high organic matter content. A maximum treatment of 160F for 30 minutes is suggested.

Oven Method:

Place the soil in containers so that the soil is level, not more than 4 inches deep. A glass or metal baking pan will work fine. Cover each container tightly with aluminum foil. Place a meat or candy thermometer through the foil and into the center of the soil. Set the oven to 160-180F and heat for 30 minutes after the soil temperature reaches 160F. After the treatment, allow the soil to cool.

Note: For large amounts of soil it may not be possible to use an oven. Instead you can use the heat of the sun. First break up the soil and make sure it's moist. If not, water it and cover with a piece of plastic. Add more soil around the edges of the plastic to keep it from coming loose and letting the moisture and heat out. Leave the soil undisturbed under the sun for a few weeks before planting.

[Editor's note: greenhouses commonly use electric soil sterilizers, able to process larger amounts of topsoil.]

Soil Fumigants
There are various products available for use in outdoor plots that can be used when heat treatment is not an option. These products are VERY hazardous and should not be used under any circumstances where you\'re plants are already in the plots!

They are for treating unplanted soil and once applied, the area must be covered with a tarp and left. Aeration times vary. Read the label.

Contributed by: AeRoGaNiC

Salts
I just put a post in the grow faq about Cation Exchange Capacity. Read the short little part about Sodium buildup. 15% total saturation is considered borderline toxicity. From what I've read Clearex is awesome.

Compost
I have seen research suggesting a high beneficial bacteria and micro-organism content helps prevent outbreaks from undesired critters.

The technique your talking about to sterilize compost piles is called solarizing. You can get more information but I've heard of just putting clear plastic sheeting over the pile.

DO NOT OVERHEAT! Chemicals toxic to plant growth can be produced in soils when temperatures reach around 212F (boiling point of water and temperature of steam). This more commonly occurs with soils having high organic matter content. A maximum treatment of 160F for 30 minutes is suggested.

Organic matter such as humus or clay have high Cation Exchange Capacity. If you've ever taken chem 100 you know heat accelerates the release of bonds between ionized metal salts and the medium.


What size pots should I use?

The general rule is that blooming plants require minimum of one gallon of soil for each foot of height.

Seedlings and freshly rooted clones do well in 3.5" square pots.

From the 3.5, transplant up into 5 inch square pots, which do fine for general vegetative and mother plant duty.

Two gallon rectangular dollar store trash cans make fine flowering pots. Just drill a bunch of 1/8 inch holes in the bottom for drainage.


How do I use capillary matting with an indoor grow and why does it help?

WHAT IS CAPILLARY MATTING?

Capillary matting is an absorbant fabric upon which pots are placed. Typically, plants are top fed with the runoff being absorbed by the matting. The matting holds the moisture until it is taken up by the plants through their bottom roots through capillary action. Many growers are now using this system and generally the findings are it helps even the plant growth giving a better overall yield. This improvement is due to the way some plants may use more water than others and completely dry out their rootball. Capillary matting is best used in a SOG or SCroG setup, where all of the plant tops are the same distance from the lamp.

SEVERAL CHOICES

In Europe we have choice of several different makes of cap matting, it also comes in different thicknesses and water retention capacity depending on what its used for. A very thin type for instance is used as a spreader mat covering the base of NFT tables giving an even all over coverage of nutrients. To the very thick water retentive type used by us which holds 1.4 us gallons per sq meter without any run off on a flat surface. They are made of a rot proof material and last several grows without breaking down. Ordinary felt is usually made from wool waste and will break down and rot faster. However, it is universally locally available, so it will do in a pinch.

HOW IT WORKS

Once you have worked out how much water your system uses [see below] If you water the amount your system takes, the plants in a normally dry condition will evenly re-wet their compost to saturation level any excess will drain out to the cap matting, where it is absorbed. However, any really dry rootballs will have shrunk back from the pot walls and most of the water applied will go around the edge of the root ball to the matting leaving the core still bone dry. Over the next 3 hours the capillary action started by watering will gradually saturate the the root ball core to whatever level your compost mix can hold. Once all the root balls have equalised the cap matting should be completely saturated but not flooded and under water. Plants that use more water will draw it from the cap matting as they need it light users will not and once the plants have been growing under this system for a week or two the plants seem to equalise and are much more even than plants in separate plant trays.

HOW MUCH WATER?

It is best to wait until your plants are in their final pots and rooted through. You can do the following method and, providing you use the same pot size and soil mix each time you grow, the data may be reused grow after grow. You will need a graduated watering container (or some other method for determining how much water is used).

1. When watering using cap matting for the first time go lightly and measure carefully.

2. Water slowly through each pots until you just get some run through.

3. Leave it for an hour or so then go back and water the cap matting until it is just saturated to the surface, leave again for an hour and if the water has been sucked up add some more, keep doing this until no more water is taken up.

If you measure how much water it took to do this starting with dryish compost rootballs you will now know how many litres/gallons the system holds and how much a full watering takes. I know this seems to be a bit of a faff but you only have to do it once. Every time you need to water this is the amount of water you will use, it will stay the same through out your grow. All that will change is the time between watering. If you are in a hurry and your plants are dry you can just empty that amount of water straight onto the cap matting and your plants will draw it up. I don't recommend you do this all the time especially when you are feeding, we find we get better results feeding through the top of the pots but do use the same amount of fertilised water as you would when watering normally.


If I change my soil grow to hydro, will it taste bad?

There is sometimes a common misconception, that Cannabis or any other plant grown hydroponically using chemical fertilizer salts, must have a chemical taste, but this is certainly not the case and has been shown in many research studies that hydroponically grown produce tastes no different than that which is soil grown.

Plants that are hydroponically grown take up plant nutrients in exactly the same way as a plant does in the soil, no matter what the original source of nutrients (organic or inorganic)was, if you can notice a difference in taste, it may be you have not flushed or cured correctly.


What is a fortified medium?

A fortified medium is one that has been amended with nutrients. Vic's Super Soil is an example of a complete fortified medium, that is, the grower does not feed the plants during the time they are in this medium. Just add water.

A partially fortified medium contains some of the nutrients the plant will need, but the grower must also feed the plants during their growth cycle. ~shabang~'s casting/perlite/vermiculite mix may be partially fortified with guano and kelp meal. The grower will still need to feed the plants, but on a reduced schedule.

 

MR_NATURAL420's perfect potting medium

1 bushel sharp sand
1 bushel clay loam
1 bushel pro-mix or a balanced compost
3 cups epsom salt
3 cups coffee grounds
3 dozen egg shells

Make sure that the pro mix you use has sufficient organic content to ensure adequate drainage. Perlite and vermiculite are good for drainage, but contribute nothing to the organic content. Peat moss or coconut fibers are better. Worm castings and bat guano have good nutrients, but don't help drainage. Making your own compost is best.
The sharp sand is heavy for containers, but I'm trying to reproduce an optimal soil, based on the average content of good soil.
Unlike other super-soils all the amendments are long term and won't burn delicate babies. Hey, your payin an arm and a leg for that coffee, use it twice. Watch the pH.
Before you plant anything in it, bring it to life by watering with a solution you make by putting the following into twenty gallons of water:

1 can beer (enzymes)
1 cup soap (helps wet soil)
1 cup mouthwash (protects seedlings from damping-off)
1 t instant tea powder
1/2 cup corn syrup
1 T B1
A couple dashes of H2O2 will eliminate Cl in tap water


Soul's Soilless Mix

50% Worm Castings
25% Promix
25% Perlite

Add a cup of PSG and dolomite lime per cubic foot of soil.

Soul recently published the following which differs from the above:

Lately I've been happier with a bit less wormcastings:

50% Pro-mix
25% perlite
25% wormcastings

I also mix in a cup of dolomite lime per cubic foot of soil & wet the mix with an organic tea made from dissolving a cup of PSG in a 5-gallon bucket of water.


MrSoul's Guano Tea Method

-veg mix

1part Peruvian Seabird Guano (PSG)
1part High N Bat Guano
1part Earth Worm Castings(EWC)

@ 1cup mix/5G H2O every 3rd watering.

-flowering nute mix:

1part PSG
1part EWC
1part High P Guano

@ 2cups/5G H2O EVERY watering.

-and yseedlings<1 month old nute mix

1cup EWC/5G H2O every 3rd watering

Soul uses a Tea Bag he got from Worm's Way and lets it sit in 5 gallons of water overnight. A sock, knee high panty hose or bandana can be used as a tea bag. The tea should look like a mud puddle. Agitate the bag in the water vigorously.


Kumquat's deluxe potting soil and manure tea


Kumquat's deluxe potting soil

9 gallons peat moss
3 gallons vermiculite
6 gallons perlite
1 pound blood meal
1 pound bone meal
1 pound green sand
1 pound lime or dolomite lime
1 pound rock phosphate
Pinch of boron (borax is an inexpensive source)

Blend ingredients in a small cement mixer or large barrel with a tight fitting lid that will let you roll it around to mix the contents. If you have to stir the ingredients in an open container, moisten them SLIGHTLY with water to avoid breathing dust as you work. Do not use more than a pinch of boron. It encourages root growth, but its levels can quickly go from helpful to harmful in the soil. Once you get the soil all mixed you can add some manure tea (see recipe below). The lime in this mix helps to neutralize the acidity of the manure tea.


Manure Tea

10 to 15 gallons manure (combine horse, chicken, and cow manure to get a nice balance of nutrients. 5 gallon bucket of chickweed and/or stinging nettles. Water to fill 55 gallon drum. Dump manure(s) in the bottom of the drum. Add chickweed and/or nettles, both of which are rich in trace elements, then fill drum with water. Once a week stir the "tea" and add water to replace any that has evaporated. You'll need a brewing time of at least 3 weeks before using this tea in the potting soil mix.


Aallon's quick & simple soil mix


A quick and easy soil mix would require:

5 parts soil. Normal commercial potting soil should be fine.

5 parts perlite. This enhances aeration of the soil-mix, helps prevent over-watering by increasing drainage and reduces soil compaction. Perlite can be replaced with coarse vermiculite or crushed expanded clay balls (mica, leca, geolite).

Optional:
2 parts composted organic matter. This can be normal household compost. If you can find composted worm castings, seaweed or composted manures (chicken, horse) they can also be used for extra kick. Non-composted manures make the soil-mix too 'hot' for the plants and should be avoided.



Bongaloid's Corruption of ~shabang~'s Casting Method

This is a flowering mix - that is, it is intended for plants or clones that will be flowered. The mix has enough nitrogen to get through a couple of weeks of vegging and the stretch. The grower may need to supplement nitrogen, watch for yellow leaves before 5 weeks of flowering.

The basic mix is

40% castings
30% perlite
30% vermiculite

For each gallon of soil mix, add:

1/4 cup of high N guano
1/2 cup of high P guano
1/4 cup of dolomite lime
1/4 cup of kelp meal

The problem with high nitrogen guano is its variability. Different guanos break down differently and may burn your plants diffferently. The upside is that high N breaks down quickly and is used by the plant immediately, so that the grower can determine how much is too much pretty easily. Burned tips are just pushing the envelope, but a ram's horn leaf curl indicates way too much nitrogen.

Conversely, high phosphorous guano breaks down slowly. It needs to be supplemented early with an organic flowering fertilizer, like EarthJuice bloom.

When the plants are potted, water them in with a mix containing 1 tbsp each of EarthJuice Catalyst and Maxicrop Liquid Seaweed per gallon of water. If the grower uses B'cuzz, then by all means add it as well. Thereafter, use EarthJuice/Maxicrop, every third watering. Make sure that the plants are fed bloom fertilizer until the fourth week of flowering.


~shabang~'s worm casting method

The mix that I recommend is basically nothing but castings and drainage. I used to cut it with all sorts of things, including soilless peat-based mixes like pro-mix.. but then you're introducing a source for pH problems-- especially when others try and duplicate it but can't find the right brands then substitute with a peat-mix that is too acidic. So down to the bare basics of a mix:

40% castings
30% perlite
30% vermiculite


Vic's Super Soil recipes & notes

Original Recipe, as it was given to me.

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix
2 L Bone Meal - phosphorus source
1 L Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolmite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
1 tsp fritted trace elements
1/2 - 1 bag chicken manure (steer, mushroom, etc) - nitrogen & trace
elements

- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.

Revised Recipe, after several failures due to bad manure sources, I now use the following recipe. Results have been excellent and the clones seem to take off right away instead of having a slow growing settling in period.

1 Bale sunshine mix #2 or promix (3.8 cu ft)
8 cups Bone Meal - phosphorus source
4 cups Blood Meal - nitrogen source
1 1/3 cups Epsom salts - magnesium source
3-4 cups dolomite lime -calcium source & pH buffering
1 tsp fritted trace elements
4 cups kelp meal.
9kg (25 lbs) bag pure worm castings

- Mix thoroughly, moisten, and let sit 1-2 weeks before use.


Substitutions

- The original recipe was a success, but I simply needed to experiment. In addition, sometimes not all ingredients were always available. Therefore, here are some possible additions and/or substitutions:

Blood & Bone Meal - when trying to cut costs
Kelp Meal - contains over 62 trace minerals. Good supplement for reducing the manure content to speed availability of soil.
Worm castings - excellent source of micro nutrients.
Bat guano - excellent for top dressing a week into flowering.
Seabird guano


Bugs

On a couple of occasions, I've ended up with fungus gnats with this soil mix. They are more of an irritation than anything but may harm weak or young plants. Some have said that putting a layer of sand on top of the soil in the pots stops the gnats from reproducing. Others can get rid of them by doing a soil drench with gnatrol or vectobac (BTI). Personally, I prefer to simply introduce fungus gnat predators (Hypoaspis miles). Once established, they not only control fungus gnats, but also thrips and mites. When there is no insect food available, they survive on dead plant material, so remain even after pests are gone to prevent future infestations. Actually, since they have been introduced, I've had no pest problems in over a year and I don't filter my intake.


Recycling Soil

Used soil - Reusing soil has a few downsides such as it makes it easier for diseases, viruses, and pathogens from entering your garden. Also peat based soils break down and become acidic. If you fertilize with chemicals you'll end up with salt buildups that will slow growth. Unless you like to take chances, have a good eye, and a good horticultural understanding, you may be better off with staying with fresh new soils. That said; I grow strictly organic and I've always reused my soil. I don't sterilize the soil between plantings as my soil is full of microbes and predatory bugs that keep the bad bugs under control. After each crop, I chop up the soil and root balls with the leaves, stalks, etc and let compost for about 3 months. I then mix it up and add about 2 - 3 cups of lime for every 50 gallons composted soil. I also add about 1/2 cup epsom salts, 2 liters bone meal, 1 liter blood meal, 1 liter kelp meal, 1 tsp trace elements, and enough perlite to regain the porosity of the original soil. I used to add a bag of manure, but I was getting fertilizer burn and so have stopped now.

As I've been fine tuning this, the plants just keep getting healthier and I haven't had any real pest problems for quite a while. I know this is a controversial approach and maybe even risky, but it allows me to keep my garden pretty much self contained. I don't attract attention by buying bales of soil every 3 - 4 months year around, or in the disposal of leaves and soil after each crop. It's definitely not for those who want sterile crops and those that use pesticides and chemical ferts. I believe in working with nature, not against it. After several generations, a nutrient imbalance developed which was only solved by leaching the soil thoroughly. My hunch is that one of the micro-nutrients was building to toxic levels. I guess farmers don't get this problem because they have the winter rains to leach excess nutrients from their fields.

 

Hope this guide helps some of you, let me know if you think anything is missing