EXP ONLY PLZ- HYDRO+ chlorine/chloramine/pool shock as daily regimen.

Discussion in 'Hydroponic Growing' started by Dustybowlz, Nov 2, 2011.

  1. #21 Dustybowlz, Nov 6, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 6, 2011
    I went to walmart and bought some of what ever they had. I know it's a seasonal product so most places don't have it now. mainly a spa/pool place. But it just needs to have the same make up as "ez clone clear rez" which is hypochloric acid.

    Now this worked great in my cloner. It is not as effective in my dwc tubs After I have an established "root issue" the pool shock is not just "over night" fixing my issue. To be more successful i may need to pre chlorinate my water and then treat with shock. After wall my only predator to iron bacteria is chlorine.

    On the other hand. The aqua shield and Zho seem to be kicking its butt!! AND the house and garden roots excel, single handedly wiped it all out. T bad its such an expensive product. It sure works amazing. I truely had to see it to believe it.
     
  2. I have to say man why not just fork 130$ on a ro filter. I was having al types of issues until I got one. Best money I've spent 0 ppm

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  3. What kinda problems where u having and do u use a water chiller
     
  4. #24 Dustybowlz, Nov 6, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 6, 2011
    Please please please do NOT clutter my thread if you dont know how to battle iron bacteria. (sorry CODinmybones, I feel like an ass about how I worded that, let me start a new).

    I've been at this a year. I have IRON BACTERIA. It has no predators. I have a hydrologic RO system. It does NOT remove the bacteria. I have had more than 10+ posts about my root issues.

    Green sand filtration is the only effective way to remove iron bacteria.

    I ONLY want info about treating water with the above products OR information reguarding IRON BACTERIA. Treating water could mean pre treating the water before use or treating the water 24/7 in the rez. Inoculants and standard means of filtration or sanitation have proven to be powerless agains this beast.

    The only things that have been proven to be effective are
    -chlorine (does not seem to kill it 100%, just "safe" means of control while still being safe to consume)
    -removing all iron from water (this means NO iron in your feed, I think the bacteria and plant fight for this micro element. Leavin my plant deficient and me confused about which micro is actually being affected and how to resolve this battle).
    -green sand filtration (all water used in or around anything must be filtered, rez water, water used to "wash" things ect.)

    The problem here is this must be able to be "consumed" or safe for human consumption. You add that to "reasonable cost" for control of this bugger and it leaves you with very little options.

    I know what I am going to do in the long run, this thread is more around what to do until that day comes (will be around harvest time, so I have a month or so yet).

    My cost to fix this AND RETAIN USING HYDROPONICS will include but not limited to,
    -Green sand filtration system, Debating on either source of injection, either chlorine or pomegranate. The system I am looking at is designed to be able to be installed by the consumer, lasts 6-10 years and designed for each specific use. That way its GPM is efficient for ALL MY USES (which will include my aprox usage for my hydro set up).

    After all the goodies $800-$1500 shipped (depending on injection)

    -Regular maint of my well system, This is a crazy process that requires you to store 100+gallons of water, put bleach in your well system at a 1000mg/L, flush and back flush and all this crazy stuff. I have to do this anually.

    Cost will depend on how much water I need to store and how much bleach I need anually.

    I am still very confused about what to do once I get my green sand filter. This filter goes in-line betwen the well and house. This leaves viable bacteria in my pipes, water heater, toilet bowls, ect. This is the other reason it would be nice to have a means of treating rez water 24/7, atleast till I can know for sure the viable bacteria is gone.

    Thanks

    PS- I also dont want a bunch of people to say "why pay soo much just to run hydro" its not just to run hydro. Its NOT to RUIN thousands of dollars I just spent on all stainless appliances, stainless fridge, front loader wash/dry, brand new piping, well and well pump efficiency/longevity, all my toilets, not having iron stains on stuff AND THE ABILITY TO RUN HYDRO.
     
  5. Well sorry that you have iron bacteria, never heard of it but looks like a headache.
     
  6. Sorry man, I dont like the way I said that let me say that again, Ive edited my post.
     
  7. I agree, Great question, But lets make a thread for him about it OR go to RUI and search HOW TO CURE BROWN SLIME and read that great 100+ page thread. Ive learned soo much about how to keep roots healthy there. But beware, its a LONG read that includes all needed info w/o ever needing to post. Theres waves of people that have asked and gotten multiple different answeres for any quesion you could possibly have about root issues WITH OUT EVER POSTING. Took me 3 days to read it.... :D
     
  8. Lol ok will read and I just added pool shock to my system we will see if it helps to keep the brow slime away also so do u not believe in pool shock any more? Another question ur roots Excel is it the real expensive stuff that takes 1ml to the gallon and its a real dark color
     
  9. #29 Dustybowlz, Nov 6, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 6, 2011

    Well your questions pertain to pool shock so there good here. There is not much chlorine or pool shock talk over there.

    -I was given a suggested formula to use in my aero cloner. It worked great to keep the brown slime away.

    -I was given a suggested formula to use in my DWC tubs 24/7. It worked for a few days, then bam, its slowly coming back. I even doubled the amount used. Ill see today. 48hrs later if theres any change.

    Now we must look into the "why" part about it.

    Running it through the RO system and NOT adding nutes to it made its iron levels low. This starved the iron bacteria and by bathing it (with out food) in an inhabitable environment, it didnt thrive. Was it still there lurking, maybe? Ill never know.

    Running it through the RO system and then hitting it with Advanced Nutrients Sensi CAL as my first additave (which has a lot more than just cal and mg, it has 3x different types of soluble iron). This feeds the crap out of the iron bacteria, allows it to grow like crazy and cause me PROBLEMS. I have crazy problems in veg with my roots. Only untill the plant gets established. Then its goes from a 50/50 battle to 70/30 and finally to 95/5 just before I switch to bloom. In bloom, I dont seem to have the same root issues. The Biological tea I brew seems to keep it at a 92/8% ratio and the plant wins.

    So, the nutrients added to the water AND a habitable environment allow the bacteria to thrive. This is information I knew, Just typing this I got to thinking. AN makes 2 different types of CAL/MG. Sensi cal grow and sensi cal bloom. There are a lot of micro/mineral elements in the sensi cal grow that are NOT in the sensi cal bloom. I know I need these micro elements because Im using the RO filter. BUT I wonder if, because there using 3x different types of soluble iron, "IF" one or more "types" of iron will feed this bacteria more than others. I know I need iron especially if I have a bacteria depleating the small amounth thats there, I just dont know how to feed my plant iron and not the iron bacteria. OR once the plant has the iron def, how to treat the symptoms its actually showing.

    THE REASON I KNOW it has to do with the nutrients used IS BECAUSE OF MY EXTENSIVE TRIAL AND ERROR with different methods.

    -In DWC it ONLY takes 3x days for brown to occur. No matter how I change the environment.
    -I was given a suggestion that my brown was coming from the cloner. I changed cloning styles. I used a DWC cloner.

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    This ran for 30 DAYS!! There was ZERO BROWN BUILD UP anywhere (or green or yellow or pink, it was perfectly clean). The water consisted of 1gallon of my RO water and 1oz biological TEA. NO nutes, no bottled water simply experiment. They were transplanted to RW cubes once rooted and I have been feeding them 300ppms of nutes (about 75ppms sensi cal grow w/ the 3x types iron). I dont see any brown showing yet after a week. This shows the environment has a LOT TO do with it IF im using nutes. It also shows that if the roots are bathed 24/7 in the water w/o nutes there is no brown.

    So in conclusion

    At this point in time I dont know if it is specifically advanced nutrients doing it or JUST the FE/iron feeding the bacteria in that specific environment doing it.

    EDIT- Anyone following anything im doing has to understand, my brown is/may not be the same as your brown. Mine is iron bacteria, my methods of eradication, control or any information I post pertains to my issues. This is highly unlikely to be pertinent information for most.
     
  10. rep to you for not giving up and running soil.
     
  11. THANKS

    I sort of cheated here.... I really really wanted to run hydro mothers... But I had to run em in soil...

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    Mother tent 2

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  12. What about doing a short quick try of GH3 PART? in place if the the AN.... See if its the AN

    Could be cheap....and will show with out a doubt

    Maybe it has less iron
     
  13. #33 Oldschoolhydro, Nov 7, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 7, 2011
    I don't suppose boiling the water would help? I sure would like to see you whip this.
     
  14. #34 Dustybowlz, Nov 7, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 7, 2011
    Speed- I loled when I saw your post..... Your wife is like mine... She's equally as unhappy seeing me with any sort of new grow stuff..... Im really considering it (now that I am depleting my stupid AN stash).

    Old school- You Gota think. I either have to go about it all OCD style and import water or boil 50+ gallons a week. Or I just act like everyone else. Then, Every time I wash my hands, wash my meters/tools, then dry them off with a towel that was washed with water with viable bacteria.... its much bigger then simply boiling water... I wish it was. The problem with hydro (and not soil ) is its such a dammed good environment for it to thrive. Any spore contamination puts a clean system at risk.

    Not trying to knock your input (its not like there's really anyone other than speed and Jakester that takes the time to look into my problem) because I really appreciate any help given
     
  15. A test run of GH would be cheap,60 or so

    And yeah, my wife is mega done with my shopping habits, hahaha
     
  16. I know it would be cheap. If I had to choose between 3 parts u suggest GH though? Just the g/m/b? Then what formula, Lucas? Then, since im RO, do I add cal mag, if so, from what manufacture?

    Its going to be a week or so till I could afford it anyway.
     
  17. I use gh right now and I love them and yeah just try the g b m for now and no u don't need a cal mag if u start to get a lack of it just double the micro dose. But I do use a cal mag for time to time its the botanicare brad also love it
     
  18. Jakester has more experience than I do....hopefully he will chime in
     
  19. Have you tried to UV in line filter for your RO system how does the iron bacteria react to that? It's supposed to sterilize everything? Maybe I missed it in the previous posts as well.
     
  20. I was wondering about those my self the uv filters cause I just bought an ro yesterday and was looking at those uv s
     

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