Where are temps again, with the AC running and venting the hot air into the attic? That is pretty much what I do during the warm season and I run at or near 84, which is great esp w/1000watts of light and all that air exchange (for increased CO2). You will get it fine tuned man, no worries... get something going under CFLs in that tent until you get the hps dialed in. You will be glad you put in the extra effort!
No you're not over thinking this.... What I usually suggest is the lamps cooling is sucked from the house (not the room where the tent is in), then vent to the attic... The chamber exhaust sucks from the room the tent is in, and vents to the attic.. Usually with the lamps sucking from a different room, the chamber exhaust should only run every hour (give or take), and the A/C's cooling the chamber does remove from the room, is the spoil of war... If you're sucking hot air into the hoods, then it is not going to cool the metal down and thus the lamp metal's heat will just dissipate into the chamber, and thus warming the chamber faster causing your chamber exhaust to come on quicker and then run longer, which will deplete the A/C from the room.. Winter should not be a problem, because the central heater has a vent into the room right?? Then the A/C has a thermostat on it so it will only come on when the room reaches the set temp... I'm setting up a chamber now, the way I'm doing it, I set a thermometer in the bedroom, and adjusted (closed) the bedroom's heater vent so the bedroom hovers around 65-68F with no lights running... That way the night temp of the chamber will be right around the bedroom temp... When the lights come on, the chamber will heat up to around 85-88F.. Of course I'm going to run Co2, so temps could get into the low 90s and that would not be as much of a problem than it would be without the Co2... So there is NO WAY to get the lamp's intake from any other place than the bedroom or attic??? You cannot punch a hole in the wall somewhere for the lamp's cooling intake (from another part of the house) and vent to the attic???
Okay, so today I just walked in the room, it was 75 degrees, I turned the tent on, with all the fans running, and left, I came back to the room about 2 hours later, and it was hot! So I realize I definitely have to exhaust the air somehwere.. Theres no getting around it. It was up to 100 degrees in the tent.. So to help you better see what I'm working with I've taken some pictures.. I also Need some help about cutting holes thru walls, I'm an office guy, always worked doing loans.. I understand things, so Im not a complete idiot, so some guidance as to what I need to buy to get ducting connected to the tent and out the room, and another to go thru the wall to get air from another room.. unfortunaely, I don't have a clue how I will keep my bedroom warm/cool because I will be constantly pulling air out and thur my hood, then to the attic.. so that really really sucks.. my ole ladys gonna pitch a bitch... Maybe I could intake from some random part of the house, that could reach lows in the 50s, and highs in the upper 80s.. would that be fine just for the hood? Maybe I could intake from my dining room, which we never run a heater or window unit in, so its usually anywhere from 50 to 85 depending on the season, but should be fine just to pull air from to run thru the hood right?^^^**** If I were to do that, I would have to run about 40-50 ft of ducting thru the attic just to get my intake to the tent, Then exhaust it to the attic.. its sooo hard to keep my house warm in the winter, its an old house, every window has cold drafts coming in so I'm scared its going to suck all my heat out.. as I DO NOT have any central heat or air.. just window units and space heaters.... I really gotta figure this out.. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Uploaded with ImageShack.us Edit: For the winter, I believe I halfway thought of something, I could suck air from the front room of the house, because we're never in there, and it never gets heated hardly, and exhaust it to the hallway, which will help warm the house, right? as for the tent exhaust, I could exhaust that into another room that needs better heating, right? And maybe for summer, I could just have it exhausting to the attic, and pulling from the room that we never use, it could be about 80-85 degrees in that room during the summer.. But I think that would be fine for a hood exhaust, the hood is sealed really good.. I need to adjust the bulb to the upper side of the reflector, I have it lowered closer to the glass now.. I guess I need to buy about 100 ft of ducting, and several in out flanges for the ceilings right? When I say in out, do they make thouse, so I can just hook the ducting in the room up, and in the attic hook it up, just to run it thru the house to the other room, and hook up again? Follow?
thats a perfect setup if you would just cut a hole in the ceiling and push the hot air in there.... problem solved...
200% AGREE ^^^^ LOL I'm cutting 4 - 6" holes in my upstairs ceiling... Really 5 if you count the 6" hole for the chamber exhaust... But I want to use the a little over 8,100 btu of heat from the lamps to warm the upstairs... Figure I can suck from the cold attic in the winter and exhaust into the house and "recycle" some of that heat back into the house and save on the heating costs in winter up here.... Then in the summer, I flip it and put the blower on the other side, so it sucks the cool air from the house and exhausts into the attic... Will be doing short videos too... Ya gots to do, what ya gots to do, to deal with HID heat...
Dude I was having the same prob... So I coped something called a ice box, you can put it on your hood. But you need a water chiller to keep it cold. You will only need to run this and your ext... fan from in to out. This thing is pretty stelf.... P.S let me know if you want a water chiller found one they sell on hydro farm site for $300 shipped. My local hydro shop sells the same one for over $400.
my 2 1000ws in my room can rest at a foot or so, but i dont do that cause i need to cover more area so then does it even matter for me atleast.
Ok was thinkin abt this thread and came back to settle the argument. After ventin the hood to the attic.. I now have started flowering my 5 week old girls and with the hood resting 13 inches from tops AND THE FANS ARE HALF THROTTLE im runnin a steady 77-79 degrees..my girls are aleady about 18 inches.. But i still have well over 2 ft to raise the light.. So basically.. The 1000 watt defintely rules over the 600 watt because with my hood setup i can get my 1000 just as close to the tops as ur 600 .. Bam.
So glad you went for the 1000 A few of my top colas are about 8-10 inches away myself.. Having that much light is going to make for some fat colas!!
6 - 1000w will get you bigger budz but not as much bud as if you had 10 600w, so watt for watt its cheaper but its not as intense either, but theres a reason other than the bulbs efficiency. it's multiple light point, thats more important, why do you think in Europe they use 400w and 600w? and its been proven. anyhow, american just like big things so they need 1000w to penetrate there trees... do your self a favor and sog then the penetration becomes nothing so 1000w are crap. isnt efficiency important to anyone? and with out co2 your plant has a cap to light it can take till you increase co2 temp and nutrients. the reason a 1000w may give bigger buds is because the spectrum that marijuana wants is not very high in hps [640nm and 660nm from some sources] , and most hps dont come close to what you need.. so the intensity of the 1000 light is alot higher than a 600 would be at that spectrum? and that may be the reason for larger buds. but theres a cap...a better solution would be to use leds then cause hps spectrum is shit for marijuana. and leds can obviously give the plant what it needs and you could string them on like Christmas lights.. edit : on top of this two light points would be better than one anyways , 2 600 will give you fatter buds than 1 1000w
No, see I think you're missing the point.... He is working with a 4x4 tent and only wants to buy one lamp.. His concern is that a 1000w lamp would be too much heat... So IMO the 1000w was a better match the lamp to the tent size while following your "efficiency", because in this case the 1000w is more cost efficient... Like 16 sq ft., if you use a 600w, that's only 37.5w per sq... (LIMP)... So really ideal would be two 600w lamps and 75w per sq.... But that would not be cost efficient to get two lamps when you can get a 1000w and supply 62.5w per sq., as I pointed out earlier in the thread, I'd rather use two 600w lamps for the 4x4 tent, and then SCRoG it... But that's me and I most likely would have saved the money and got the 1000w too... Yes the 600w are watt for watt more efficient than the 1000w.. But like the MH are more money than the 1000w MH bulbs... But it ALL BOILS DOWN TO, zq8s10 is HAPPY, his temps are normal and fans running half speed, so he can supply the 62.5w per sq ft. over using the 600w and only getting 37.5w per sq..... Also with the proper cooling, you can get that 1000w within 6-8" of the tops... Just my 2 cents anyway.................
[quote name='"jakesterjammin"'] No, see I think you're missing the point.... He is working with a 4x4 tent and only wants to buy one lamp.. His concern is that a 1000w lamp would be too much heat... So IMO the 1000w was a better match the lamp to the tent size while following your "efficiency", because in this case the 1000w is more cost efficient... Like 16 sq ft., if you use a 600w, that's only 37.5w per sq... (LIMP)... So really ideal would be two 600w lamps and 75w per sq.... But that would not be cost efficient to get two lamps when you can get a 1000w and supply 62.5w per sq., as I pointed out earlier in the thread, I'd rather use two 600w lamps for the 4x4 tent, and then SCRoG it... But that's me and I most likely would have saved the money and got the 1000w too... Yes the 600w are watt for watt more efficient than the 1000w.. But like the MH are more money than the 1000w MH bulbs... But it ALL BOILS DOWN TO, zq8s10 is HAPPY, his temps are normal and fans running half speed, so he can supply the 62.5w per sq ft. over using the 600w and only getting 37.5w per sq..... Also with the proper cooling, you can get that 1000w within 6-8" of the tops... Just my 2 cents anyway................. [/quote] Nail on the head man... Regardless Ill take my bigger fatter buds without all the christmas lights.. My plan is basically a every two month harvest.. Ive started 5 critical + plants, 1 norther lights #9, and 1 CH9 humbolt.. I vegged for 5 weeks in some plain potting soil and fed with earth juice nutrients under the 400 watt MH.. As of yesterday Ive switched to the 1000 watt and exhausted to the attic .. My attic is vented and i have the intake for the hood pulling from there as well.. The air is cool tonight and I am running 74 degrees with the tops only about 10 inches from the hood.. Which is pretty awesome because i can also run the fans not even half way now and its super quite.. Anyways.. Ive switched to flowering sunday..and cut my very first batch of clones.. And want to keep the best plant going to harvest a batch of 9 every 2 months with a 6 week veg So heres the official DAY 2 PICS
to add to this, would it be a bad idea to run a 1000w dimable diled down to 75% (750w) in a 4x4 tent. Im assuming it would yield better than a 600w without as many heat related issues as a 1000w. agreeD?
Hello, if you go 1000w, you just are gonna want to have options, not be limited. You can make it work great, but you will be limited because of tent height on the 1000w, but you can do it and do it awesome, the 600w isn't too little, it works better for not having height restrictions is all. Go with your initial thought, but instead of asking "will it work"...we know it will...ask..."pros n cons of...."and then do it. Success boils down to three things... 1. What do you want? 2. What does it cost? 3. Pay the price, any negotiation leads to failure. Find someone in your state who got or is getting the results you want to get..what exactly are they doing? Do those exact things the exact way and you'll get those results. I'd reach out and ask more specific questions. Ex. I need someone in x-state USA, who grows in soil in a 4 x 4, with one 1000w. who yields at least xxxlb, who maintains temp at x and humidity at x, who is in this exact situation... What exactly do you use please?
What a great forum!!! And a great question. Clearly this forum is filled eith leaders..We may want to see if approaching these questions and topics with more of a problem solving, proactive attitude. Things are not the way we see them, they are the way they are. It's so important to examine the lenses we are looking through regularly, that way we don't get in the habit of using so much energy and time spinning in circles, and instead we are a part of a more immediate solution. Gang, I know I'm new on this forum but we have enough working against us, it's so wise to not react emotionally or should I say "take it personal", it's tough but so important. Many roads lead to Big Yieldville! Coming in from the south on the main road might be scary for you, or it may be just your cup of tea. Asking more specific questions....saying please and thank you, replying to someone who may seem more reactive with some care and maybe a "Thank you for replying, that's one way to do it....", is a lil more time consuming but create a forum whose culture could be powerful...just a thought!!! Thanks for allowing me to go on and on! Best intent! Love!
Lighting rep told me that it harms the spectrum to just dial down there ballast. If you want to run it at 75% you should have the proper bulb. I run magnetic ballast so I can't say for sure. Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk
Anyone ever use a 600w and led panels in a 4x4x7? I was thinking about putting a 1000 in but I would have to upgrade my exhaust system. I have 3 led hans panels and if I put a 600w In it should almost get me up there to a 1000w and less heat