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Slow growth, red stem?


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#1
rockout74

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Hey guys, my plants are 2 weeks in now. 4 Master kush in solo cups, ffof, RO water, 5-26 watt 65k cfls and 1-26w 3000k cfl.

The tallest sprout is only about an inch and a half, the cotledyons are turning yellow and dying? (good rite?) But only one of the plants looks a healthy green. the others are yellowish, very small, and one of them has a red stem? Could this be a lack of watering? I spritz them a bit every two days, but the soil looks really dry. I also have a dinafem roadrunner in there which is the largest and looks the most healthy!

I hear overwatering is worse than under. Some say transplant now, others say wait til they're 5 inches...

Any input on watering, transplanting, or anything else would be appreciated!

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#2
thatguythat

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over watering is worse because it doesn't show you that you are doing it until you have done it. when the plant sags, you know to water if you haven't already. do you have pics? that would help us help you.

#3
Skunky Monkey

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NITROGEN (N)
Pale plants, red stems, smaller growth. Rapid yellowing of lower leaves progressing up the plant. Add any chemical fertilizer containing N. Treated plants recover in about a week.

PHOSPHORUS (P)
Slow or stunted growth, red stems. Smaller leaves that are dark green. Lower leaves yellow and die. Add chemical fertilizer containing P. Affected leaves will not show recovery but new growth will apear normal.

POTASSIUM (K)
Affected plants are usually tallest and appear to be most vigorous. Necrotic spots form on lower leaves. Red stems. Leaves appear pale or yellow. Add chemical fertilizer containing K.

CALCIUM (Ca)
Lack of calcium in the soil results in the soil becoming too acid. This leads to Mg or Fe deficiency or very slow stunted growth. Treat by foliar feeding with one teaspoon of dolomatic lime per quart of water until condition improves.

SULFER (S)
Plants suffering from S definciencies exhibit yellowing of new growth. Mix one tablespoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water until condition improves.

MAGNESIUM (Mg)
Lower leaves yellow and may even turn white while veins remain dark green. Blades die and curl upward.

IRON (Fe)
Leaves on growing shoots turn pale and veins remain dark green. pH imbalances make iron insoluble. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Fe or rusty water.

MANGANESE (Mn)
Necrotic and yellow spots form on top leaves. Mn deficiency occurs when large amounts of Mg are present in the soil. Foliar feed with any chemical fertilizer containing Mn.

BORON (B)
Growing shoots turn grey or die. Growing shoots appear burnt. Treat with one teaspoon of Boric acid (sold as eyewash) per gallon of water.

MOLYBDENUM (Mb)
Yellowing of middle leaves. Foliar feed with chemical fertilizer containing Mb.

ZINC (Zn)
White areas form at leaf tips and between veins. Occurs in alkaline soils. Zn deficiency can be treated by burying galvanized nails in the soil. Chemical fertilizer containing Zn can also be used.

OVER FERTILIZATION
Causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. To correct soil should be flushed with three gallons of water per one gallon of soil.


#4
rhapsodyrcks

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Hey guys, my plants are 2 weeks in now. 4 Master kush in solo cups, ffof, RO water, 5-26 watt 65k cfls and 1-26w 3000k cfl.

The tallest sprout is only about an inch and a half, the cotledyons are turning yellow and dying? (good rite?) But only one of the plants looks a healthy green. the others are yellowish, very small, and one of them has a red stem? Could this be a lack of watering? I spritz them a bit every two days, but the soil looks really dry. I also have a dinafem roadrunner in there which is the largest and looks the most healthy!

I hear overwatering is worse than under. Some say transplant now, others say wait til they're 5 inches...

Any input on watering, transplanting, or anything else would be appreciated!


Watering is way worse then underwatering. MJ likes to be dried out a little between drying for the most part. Pick up method is easiest. Pick up the pot if its heavy its fine, light its dry.

As for transplanting..theres no set time really. I dont bother with that. I plant straight to the pot. I germinate outside the pot though to ensure my seed is viable. Alot of farmers outdoor gardners grow in a cup first so the plant can get hardier for the outdoors. Well if your growing inside no real reason to not plant straight in its final resting spot.

#5
phyking

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Hey guys, my plants are 2 weeks in now. 4 Master kush in solo cups, ffof, RO water, 5-26 watt 65k cfls and 1-26w 3000k cfl.

The tallest sprout is only about an inch and a half, the cotledyons are turning yellow and dying? (good rite?) But only one of the plants looks a healthy green. the others are yellowish, very small, and one of them has a red stem? Could this be a lack of watering? I spritz them a bit every two days, but the soil looks really dry. I also have a dinafem roadrunner in there which is the largest and looks the most healthy!

I hear overwatering is worse than under. Some say transplant now, others say wait til they're 5 inches...

Any input on watering, transplanting, or anything else would be appreciated!



Theyre fine in the solo cups now, I put my clones into solo's and I keep em in there till they are like 10" tall. Also don't spritz them or w/e water it till there's a 30% runoff of how much water was put in, let the soil then dry out and then do the same. Mine usually take about 3 days do dry. Now your plant could have a pH problem, you didn't mention any ph meters, solutions or what have you, the water from my tap runs high, about 7.8, so if I were not correcting it I would change the pH of the soil to 7.8 in no more than 3 waterings. Read the stickys, they have a lot of good info

#6
rockout74

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Theyre fine in the solo cups now, I put my clones into solo's and I keep em in there till they are like 10" tall. Also don't spritz them or w/e water it till there's a 30% runoff of how much water was put in, let the soil then dry out and then do the same. Mine usually take about 3 days do dry. Now your plant could have a pH problem, you didn't mention any ph meters, solutions or what have you, the water from my tap runs high, about 7.8, so if I were not correcting it I would change the pH of the soil to 7.8 in no more than 3 waterings. Read the stickys, they have a lot of good info

OK Thanks man, so can you tell me how much I should put into the solo cups, in oz's or ml's?

#7
phyking

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You mean when you water? Like I said the amount that you use untill you have 30% of it in the drainage. It doesn't have to be exact, when you water them take a cup of your feeding water and another cup the same as the first, note how much you used, and then pour your runoff into the cup and compair. But those solo cups are 16 oz? Thats what I use for 2 plants, so 8 oz ea but it will depentd on how much perlite or w/e you use


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