The easiest way to get the temperature you want is to make a long screen, and keep cutting the tip off of it until it is at the temperature you want it at. Calculations are nice, when you know enough of the theory behind something to calculate it accurately. Heat transfer is a very complicated topic. We're talking assumptions left and right to simplify calculations. Even then, you still need to use partial differential equations. It's possible to calculate how much heat is generated from a resistor rather easily, but the problem lies in how much heat is transfered to your herb. And let's be honest, the temperature of the screen greatly depends on your draw speed on the MFLB. I also bought an IR thermometer, just one of the cheap ones accurate to 2 C but with a range to 300 C. FYI: The MFLB's circuit measures 0.2 ohms. My multimeter's resolution is only 0.1 ohm, so consider it 0.2 +/- 0.1. The voltage under load is ~0.9V. The current draw is minimum 4.5 amps, upwards of 8A on a full charge. FYI: The Volcano Vapourizer has a vapourization range of 182 C to 193 C. P.S. - I just got my bimetal switches in the mail. Basically, when they reach 200 C, they open the circuit until they cool down a bit. Neat, huh? I also got a 170 C version, but I'm not sure if that will be hot enough.
Kurt - For the bimetal switches, do you Fahrenheit? Just a hypothetical here, if you were to redesign the L.B., what would absolutely keep and what would you do to improve in the design. Things to like about the design: 1 - I like the smallness of the design. 2 - I think the original had an LED light to tell you that contact is made (have not seen this incorporated in any other DIY designs) 3 - I really like that fact it is made out of wood. Things I would improve: 1 - Other wood options - like zebra wood, ebony, cocobolo, etcCool different 2 - plexiglass colors would be neat to match different woods etc 3 - Maybe the ability to adjust temperature slightly. But really, the design is so simple and compact, that there is little to modify. I'm going to be at a standstill on my project till I get some parts/equipment, and I gotta get my Shopsmith working again, lol. I'll probably start a new thread when I get my project off the ground, I feel like I hijacked the op's thread. Sorry OP. P.S. Based on some of my early reading, Copper is actually safer than stainless steel when heated.
this thread is getting somewhere, nice to see the debate, even tho i really dunno exactly you guys are talking about, but i get an idea, can't wait too see what you pull from this
just combine the doo hickey and the thingamabob lol what the fuck are you guys saying?!?! flux capacitor
I have a topic started on this already, but some people are following its updates just to put me down. I agree with you a lot. I'm already in the process of improving the design. I'm surprised you didn't mention the MFLB's horrid battery life, too. The top could be glass, or at least a plastic harder than wood so it doesn't scratch so much. The entire design is awkward because the person who invented it didn't use any electronics in it at all. His thing is "as simple as possible", he says. I think he's just not smart enough to figure it out. Features my finished prototype will have: - 4+ bowls per battery. A single 18650 cell Lithium Ion will run it. a protection circuit rated at 6 amps will be inside. The current will also be limited by other circuitry. - Adjustable temperature. (A thumbwheel) - Temperature Gauge (The current design uses LED's and incandescents with a zener diode or two to give the user some feedback as to the actual temperature.) Another option is using a meat thermometer, or perhaps both. - Similar size: It looks like I will be able to fit the circuitry into a small space. The finished product will hopefull be ~ 190mm x 55mm x (150?)mm. Beyond that, a lot of fine engineering and tetris skills will enable it all to run super smoothly.
lol Marty McFly: Wait a minute, Doc. Ah... Are you telling me that you built a vaporizor... out of a DeLorean? Dr. Emmett Brown: The way I see it, if you're gonna build a time vaporizor into a car, why not do it with some style? Talk about some mean ass hits
Very nice Kurt, I can't wait to see the finished project. I've never owned a F.B. so I didn't know about the battery issue but I saw some people talk about it on youtube, that the power really starts to drop after the first or second hit. I'm still thinking of a title for my thread something like - Uncle Benny Goes Vaporizer Crazy - Uncle Benny's Launch Pad - Uncle Benny's Look what I found In my Lunch Box - Or maybe just -Uncle Benny's Launch Box DIY Project. Woodworking is a hobby of mine, so I got a shitload of tools to do the project, and it looks like it would be a nice useful project, better than building a shitass wooden stool that nobody would use. The hard part for me is building the heating element. Read some of the details regarding the heat generated by the F.B., and I think you'll find that the element does reach over 400f. Question - what is that ring around the bowl chamber? From the pictures it looks like it might be an O-Ring or maybe made out of metal. Just curious.
Yeah, it's just an O ring to keep the screen's edges from being exposed. It doesn't serve a functional purposeapart from holding the screen on to the box. For the heating element, buy some silver solder, and at least a 60W soldering iron. They are readily available at the source / radio shack for ~$15. You will also need some lead free silver solder and some flux. Alternatively, some rosin core silver solder. You can maybe find this at the source, if not, then home depot should have it for copper plumbing. Or if you have a vice, you can get a good enough connection by closing it as tightly as you can on the screen wrapped around the wire/rod. Somewhere on the internet, I saw a net for the screen. Somewhere out there is a printable trace-and-cut pattern for the MFLB's screen.
HEY EVERYONE SORRY FOR NOT UPDATING AND WHATNOT. MY DADS BEEN REALLY SICK AND THINGS ARE HECKTIC NOW THAT SCHOOLS BACK. So far ive made the prototype and threticaly it should work. All i need now is to get some rechargable batteries (i tried to use regual batteries, stupid me) and we'll see if it works!
I will also get some pics up asap. The design as of right now looks like crap but this prototype was just suposed to see if it can and will work. So dont mind the look just wait until I get some rechagables and I can test it out.
Just so you know, that camera you found is a game camera that hunters use to snap pictures of deer when they trip the motion sensor. The plants he has it pointed at are no doubt eaten by deer so he is using the camera to scout the area for a potential hunting stand.
I thought about the picture the guy will see of some guy taking a picture of his game camera..haha. Opens picture...".............the fuck?"
^^That's hilarious! The dude is expected to see a deer, maybe some sunk or a possum. Nope! Just some dude taking a picture of my camera, WFT..
Hey bro, that sounds awesome. Haters gonna hate, let them. But at the end of the day your specifications are superior, and I'm interested. I hope you sucseed, because if you do i'd be more than happy to buy a unit if its reasonably priced and if some reputable sources have reviewed it as a good product. I couldnt care less who the hell made the product.
So I started building one and it works, but it doesn't produce a lot of vapor. I followed all the instructions in this thread: -Used cooper wire -I used a stainless steel mesh measuring 2 squared cm. -I'm using 2450mah rechargeable batteries but still not getting enough heat I was thinking that it could be because the mesh isn't soldered to the cooper wires maybe? This is just the prototype, I want it to work perfectly before I make the final version.