Ive come across a few charts the past few years on these boards..Due to the lack of back ups i have lost saved ones and other reasons for loosing others..In the coffee lounge we just put a few up but will soon be lost in pages of crapp..So i thought we would have a chart thread..Ill put up what weve found and people can add ones they have found..
If i may add.. Please my friendly MJ Soil Growers. if you ever seen this chart below, please ignore the hell out of it.... Its been proven that best Nutrient Uptake is between 6.0 and 6.5 PH in soil, NOT 7 as stated in this readily available online chart.
LINK! General Hydroponics - Flora Grow Series Feed Chart. http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/GH_Feed-Chart.pdf General Hydroponics - Nutrient Calculator. http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/fchcol.html WaterFarm Instructions http://www.genhydro.com/genhydro_US/instructions/GH_WaterFarm_instructions.pdf Advanced Nutrients - Gro-Micro-Bloom Nutrient Calculator (soil and hydro) http://www.advancednutrients.com/nutcalc3public/
Credit for these charts go to everyones buddy Kamel. They show full spectrum analysis of CFLs at various color temperatures: http:/forum.grasscity.com/general-indoor-growing/122824-kamels-cfl-guide.html#post1297444
I thought this is useful as I try to understand photoperiods. The link below calculates a years worth of sunrise/sunset data. The table is a little hard to read but all the info you need is there in a single page. click
Great thanks alot, realy needed that picture with trichomes, It'll help me when it's time to harvest!
Thank you very much for these wonderful charts guys!!! What a great help. Can someone please explain to me the very first one? I know it is probably very simple, but is over my head right now.
The first chart in this thread is a calibration chart for temperature compensation. When you are calibrating your pH meter with those specific buffered solutions you can make it a little more accurate by using temperature compesation. If you have a $1500 bench meter and need to know the pH within .01 then this chart is important. Here are a couple of good lighting charts from Caligrower. \ These charts are good to use, to make sure you do not exceed 100% PAR when the buds are ripening, to prevent burning all flavour from out of them. In late flower stage you should move the lights to 50-75% PAR.
Woah. I feel like Johnny Mnemonic or something. Although some of the info. in the charts is common knowledge, seeing it visually represented is like a torrent of information not previously considered. A real eye-opener. Good lookin' out. I can't believe i avoided this thread for so long based on the title. Whack myself in the back of the head for that one. I can't believe there are so few replies.
""""These charts are good to use, to make sure you do not exceed 100% PAR when the buds are ripening, to prevent burning all flavour from out of them. In late flower stage you should move the lights to 50-75% PAR. """ If this is true then is it only wise to buy a lamp that will give you 100% Par in your partidular setup? I had always thought that one of the main advantages of HID lighting was that with good lamps and the right circumstances you could achieve that 200 - 300 percent par range and fatten your buds even greater than the sun ever naturally could? Sort of like using Co2 in your garden to increase it to levels it would never reach outside.
Here's a chart I made a little while ago on grow light efficiency, taking into account many factors i.e. the ability of large HID's to penetrate the canopy.