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Sick plants 1.5 weeks into flower yellowing tops/pics included


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#1
BillyBojangles2

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So the setup is as follows.. 2 1k watt lights over 16 blue dreams in 5 gallon pots
used oceans forest fox farm/ roots soil mix for all of them

Started with botanicare grow formula/liquid karma and switched to biobizz grow/bloom first week into flower..

I haven't been phing my water, run off is at 5.9 so I've already flushed with 6.5 ph water a couple days ago and growth seems to be taking off so I am hoping its a step in the right direction....

Anyhow, the yellowing is primarily on the new growth, the very new leaves seem stunted and are narrow and a lime green color. Also, the yellowing seems to be coming from the middle of hte leaves outside, definitely not starting at the outer edges. Tips are fine

Ive also been doing some epsom salt spray, and with the last flushing I added molasses and some cal/mag at half strength

Please! any thoughts on the pics?

Side note: some of these are with the 1k watts blaring on them so they look extra yellow, but the ones without it they still look green! Probably more descipritive of the problem..

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#2
Freakbro1

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Ya know, Ive gone over your post a couple of times,
and I tend to be very observant/critical (constructively, of course),
but I cant find a damn thing wrong with what youre doin.

Good job man. I would sit back for a couple more days and let
the plants show me wazzup - and take it from there.

Freak
:smoke:

#3
BillyBojangles2

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Will do, any other opinions??!

#4
SimpleHoosier

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I'm with Freak on this one. You're doing a great job and I'm not seeing anything really wrong either. Only idea I've got is maybe it's starting to want a little more N, but that's really hard to tell with pics taken under an HPS. If you do decide to add a little N, do it in small increments. Your plants are looking good and no sense in burning them by trying to add too much. If they were my plants I'd be letting them go for a few more days before fixing anything. Just keep an eye on the nitrogen because that'd be my guess if anything is wrong. Hope this helps;)

#5
BillyBojangles2

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Any indications you can see from the yellowing coming from what I call the bones of the leaf? Like.. yellowing along the whole leaf, but from the middle outward towards the edges..

Would that be symptomatic of a low PH? Cause theyre about 6 weeks old and I never checked the ph I was watering with until last week.. Once they wake up ill prob water em again with some nutes, ph'd of course

#6
BillyBojangles2

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Update:

Since flushing with 6.5 ph water growth has taken off but yellowing persists, I have since then done a half strength feed and intend on doing a full strength feed tomorrow (will be 12 days into flowering blue dream)

I am using Biobizz topmax/grow/bloom, thinking I will go about 3/4 strength on bloom, 1/4 on grow, and 3/4 on the topmax. IF I am not using the algamic will that cause this problem?

Anyhow, here are some new pics:

The last two are a rare occaision, but is a pic of the deformed/stunted growth, all the others im trying to indicate the intervenal chlorosis I think it'sc called, where the inside of the leaf is a lighter green/yellower then the rest. Under the HPS it looks very yellow.

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#7
BillyBojangles2

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bump bump bumjp

#8
BillyBojangles2

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BUMP!

Just did a foliar spray of alg-a-mic, i think it is getting better, however the new flowers still are slightly light green/yellowish, all over the plant.

#9
shodan

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i think possibly a slight copper deficiency due to a possible N deficiency. copper deficiencies symptoms are chlorosis and irregular growth. if your in budding i wouldn't worry one bit. since you are supposed to be tapering off N for budding anyway. the problem with remain visible but will not continue to harm the plants too much.

if severity persist flush and then treat with a copper sulphate in a foliar feeding or in the soil directly. if using a chemical fert with copper sulphate, use a low dosage not to burn. i recommend using a good micro-nute.

ive budded plants outta veg with similar attributes and had no problems persist. let me ask you if you had this problem before the 12/12 switch? my idea is that switch into bud nutes alone will solve your problem. unless ofcourse it started directly after 12/12 came effective. hope this helps

-shodan

#10
Peter Griffin

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Is it rootbound? That can do bad things to plants.

#11
BillyBojangles2

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Ok so after all suggestions being taken into mind, I finally began monitoring the PH going in (continuing at 6.5) and the problems seem to be solved. Up until this last watering (Now at 25 days into flower) I have been feeding about 3 ml/gallon of Biobizz grow, 8 ml/gal of biobizz bloom, and 4ml/gal Algamic. I was using Topmax but I then noticed that Algamic and Topmax had the same ingredients, any thoughts?

Anyhow, here are some more recent pics..

A question regarding some of the pistils looking as I call it "singed" on the occaisional bud. I tried to get some good pics exemplifying the ones I think look like they're flourishing, and one where the tops of the buds have singed pistils. I don't think the light is too close, I was thinking maybe it could be from doing some branch-teasing (pull branch around to even canopy), but would be curious to know eveyrones thoughts.

Furthermore, I have had a recent fungus knat infection, I have some sticky traps in the pots and I was thinking about putting a layer of perlite over the soil to prevent them from laying further eggs. I dont really see any live ones right now and I have about 30 tops on 5 sticky traps, with 16 plants under 1kw

Any suggestions for the knats?!

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#12
theinkman26

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Ok so after all suggestions being taken into mind, I finally began monitoring the PH going in (continuing at 6.5) and the problems seem to be solved. Up until this last watering (Now at 25 days into flower) I have been feeding about 3 ml/gallon of Biobizz grow, 8 ml/gal of biobizz bloom, and 4ml/gal Algamic. I was using Topmax but I then noticed that Algamic and Topmax had the same ingredients, any thoughts?

Anyhow, here are some more recent pics..

A question regarding some of the pistils looking as I call it "singed" on the occaisional bud. I tried to get some good pics exemplifying the ones I think look like they're flourishing, and one where the tops of the buds have singed pistils. I don't think the light is too close, I was thinking maybe it could be from doing some branch-teasing (pull branch around to even canopy), but would be curious to know eveyrones thoughts.

Furthermore, I have had a recent fungus knat infection, I have some sticky traps in the pots and I was thinking about putting a layer of perlite over the soil to prevent them from laying further eggs. I dont really see any live ones right now and I have about 30 tops on 5 sticky traps, with 16 plants under 1kw

Any suggestions for the knats?!


try a little Epson salt it looks like you mite have a slight sulfur def.
Epson salt will help balance the nute up take

#13
shodan

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as far as the singed hairs, it looks more to me the natural process in which the hairs go from white to redish or light brown as the bud is ripening. as for gnats, the least stressfull way for your plants to rid of them is:
take a empty pot and put a trash bag or two in it as a liner..
put your plant with the same size pot inside the lined pot...
water the pot with plain water till there is standing water on the top of your soil...
let sit for 18-24 hours(no more or less)....
lift your pot with the plant out of the "trashbag pot"...
there ya go.
the method is to drown the eggs and larvae within the soil(the flies do virtually no damage). sticky traps are good to slow reproduction. see the eggs take about 6 days to hatch. and the adults live about 10. if you can repeat this process lets say every 4-5 days a total of three times you will completely inhibit the larvae from maturing into adulthood. and eventually kill the total gnat population. :hello: for most older plants the fungus gnats will do no visible damage. the larvae are able to feed plenty with the nutes you keep adding to the soil and shouldn't ever harm the roots the plant. as for seedlings, clones, and other newer plants using less of a nutrient base to grow can be infested easily and destroyed from within the roots. using most pesticidal treatments chemical or organic will work very well, but usually at the expense of some kind of stress to your plants. which in budding you would probably not want to do anything that's going to fuck with the amazing blue dream flavor your gonna have. perlite or sand on the topsoil of the pot is good for being too dry which also deters gnats from laying eggs also the eggs and larvae will die(more of a preventative than a solution for infestation). some people might worry(i did) about over-watering syptoms or root rot from day old stagnent water in the pot. think of it almost like a flush, and i would recommend using a bit a H2O2 for a cleaner and to allow little/some o2 to the roots, but not enough for the eggs or larvae to breath(also this type of thing can help sever root rot with a slightly higher does of H2O2 and less drowning action).. anyway hope this helps.

-shodan

#14
MINGLED

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that's really weird. i just posted a thread in the advanced section. i am also growing the blue dream and getting the same thing. mine is even more profound, when you walk into my room using halide's it's like all the tops are just screaming, but they're yellow as hell when they come out....:(

i have been growing forever and ever, and i have never ever seen this issue whatsoever. i know it's not a ph issue for me, because i have other strians in the room, and it's only the blue dream that's doing it. it's deficient of something, and has higher requirements of something.

Edited by MINGLED, 01 April 2011 - 08:59 PM.



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