BadKats CannaPharm: Medical Grade Oil, Cannabis Capsules, UV GLOWING Hash Candy, Canna Bombs more

Halfbakedjake · Apr 11, 2014

Nate489 said:

I decarb my BHO in a double boiler. Put vegetable oil instead of water. Get the oil to a steady 240-260F. Put thr lid on and watch the oil bubble. Once its completely still its decarbbed. Mix the coconut oil and lecithin into the hash and stir. Freeze after its cooled off and you're good to go.
Click to expand...

I can't find the lecithin anywhere. I've been running around for a while now looking.

How long do you let the coconut oil bind to the bho?

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Nate489 · Apr 11, 2014

Vitamin shoppe, GNC they all have lecithin. Or amazon.

You just stir the 2 until you an visually see no globs of hash left. It helps to winterize the oil first because the waxes wont mix with the coconut oil, they just suspend. Which isn't a big deal really, its more a visual thing.

Halfbakedjake · Apr 11, 2014

Nate489 said:

I decarb my BHO in a double boiler. Put vegetable oil instead of water. Get the oil to a steady 240-260F. Put thr lid on and watch the oil bubble. Once its completely still its decarbbed. Mix the coconut oil and lecithin into the hash and stir. Freeze after its cooled off and you're good to go.
Click to expand...

I can't find the lecithin anywhere. I've been running around for a while now looking.

How long do you let the coconut oil bind to the bho?

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rickc1882 · Apr 12, 2014

Amazon they got everything you need

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OvakilCbs · Apr 15, 2014

Im still waiting for the Herbal Iced Coffee Recipe, anyone know how to make it?
I would love to take some to 420 this year =D

UniqueGrass · Apr 16, 2014

Can I have lecthin's benefits on edible potency if I add it after the oil is done? The weed and oil are still together, no straining yet. If I have to cook to get the same increase in potency, how long and at what temp?

Miss_Medicated · Apr 19, 2014

I have another couple questions for BadKat and her helpers/associates, when they next have the time to check this thread:
We've heard here about the best oils to use as edible carriers - coconut, palm kernel oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, & ghee/clarified butter - as well as other edible solvents such as citric acid, glycerin, and food-grade alcohol.
A vinegar infusion has been mentioned as used for sushi making, but not expanded upon - is it more of a novelty thing, & not very effective compared to the other methods?
Also, what do you think about using heavy cream as a carrier? Do you use it in recipes that have cream as the only fat, or would you substitute some of your preferred infused oil for the cream? I would imagine that it would suffer some of the downfalls that standard non-clarified butter has compared to ghee?

Again, I appreciate any response!

lessthanjeezy · Apr 20, 2014

BadKittySmiles said:

- Canna Oil -

Making...

Into...

Made using the ground popcorn flowers and frosty trim, of a POG # 8 harvested in April (jar cured for 3 months).

Firstly: For most of my processing, I'd normally be wearing gloves. Food/processing grade Poly, Nitrile or Latex. You should try to avoid latex, it's a more-common allergy than the other two. Normally I'd say "no glove, no love."

But when I make oil for myself, and for one older woman who tells me she's allergic to everything from Poly, to Nitrile (hers are finished and wrapped in wax paper), I go gloveless (bareback... lol). The straining process usually gets my joints a little sore without equipment to do it for me, but the canna oil helps my hands and wrists in an amazing, almost-immediate way. I used to be a bit of an 'athlete', and had to stop at a young age due to some arthritis and other health issues.. thinking back, I may not have had to stop so soon if I'd know at the time what canna could do for me. Topical canna is great for the back, shoulders, knees, wrists and fingers... anywhere that's less than a few inches from the surface of the skin gets fast relief.

If I'm making several batches at home one day, and if I need one myself, I'll make a personal batch first so I can strain it bare-handed, and then process fully-gloved for the following batches.

Before washing the oil from my hands and wrists, I rub it in a little deeper, put plastic bags on my hands, and rest them in hot water for a few minutes... it's pure bliss in a matter of seconds, and I'm pain free, without being sedated or having other areas of my body effected or desensitized.

For the amount of pain-relief it provides, it doesn't even diminish the sensation of touch in the hands much; I can feel my hands when I touch them, and I'm never accidentally burning myself by touching something too hot, for too long. It just removes the pain.

But on to the part you care about

You will need:

- A ceramic casserole dish, or a pyrex/glass pie dish

- Aluminum Foil

- Herb

- Potato Masher or Spoon

- Grinder (preferably a coffee grinder or Bullet Blender-type grinder or blender)

- Olive, Coconut, Grapeseed, Canola oil, or clarified butter (heat and cool evaporating water, skim foam/milk solids off surface, repeat three times)

** Use slightly more oil than the recipe calls for, to account for the slight loss during straining. You won't lose much at all, especially if you strain small portions of green at a time rather than all of it all at once.. if the recipe calls for a half cup, measure out in your measuring cup until the line is only just a few hairs above the halfway mark. You'd want half a cup, and between a teaspoon and tablespoon extra.

- Optional: Lecithin (It is a 'booster' ingredient, which enhances bioavailability or absorption via a process known as 'liposomal encapsulation', providing more intense effects, from the same material. It doesn't increase potency per se; it increases your body's ability to absorb, and put the available potency to better, faster, more efficient use... for more information, see page 1 of this thread.)

-------------

Pre-heat your oven to 215 - 220 f... if you've never tested the heat of your oven, go for 210 - 215 f to be on the safe side. Decarboxylation is part of the natural aging process of canna, and decarboxylated material is somewhat fragile, because it's just a step before the material begins to actually lose the potency we're looking for as the cannabinoids continue to convert. Dry warm air is important for fast decarboxylation, but it's also a good way to quickly degrade your material by speeding up the rate of decomposition. The decarbing process continues in oil (picture how a wet potato, evaporates into a dry, but oily chip); so you're best off under-processing than over-processing, where the dry pre-decarb is concerned. Unfortunately there is a lot of discrepancy on decarboxylation. If you have freshly harvested wet cannabis, it's going to take several hours for it to first become smoke-dry, then decarb and activate. If you feel your material is very fresh, but smoke dry, feel free to experiment by adding an extra 10 - 15 minutes. If it's very old, a faded, more pale shade of green or brown, and you feel it may have crossed a border or two to get to your home, keep to the guide and do not exceed 20 minutes.

Grind your herb as finely as possible. Sprinkle evenly over the pie dish.

Cover WELL with aluminum foil, crimping up the sides below the edge and trying to avoid folding it under the dish itself (a little movement or sliding into the oven disturbs the seal and usually causes that base foil to 'lift' open.. if you seal it up around the edges instead it stays in place).

Place in oven at 220 f, for 20 - 30 minutes (less for commercial, brown or older looking herb, more for something that seems like it may be more fresh). Once your timer has gone off, shut off heat and leave the dish in the oven, open slightly (the door has a few 'open' settings... just open it a crack) and remove in 10 minutes. Letting it cool down slowly gently continues the decarbing process, while allowing any potential vapor to settle back into the material you'll be working with.

Once removed, preheat the oven again to 220 f.

Melt your solid oils, and heat those liquid oils to ensure any potential water has been evaporated prior to beginning the process.. if using butter, clarify it by heating and cooling several times, skimming the milk solids off the surface. Repeat until no solids appear.

Remove your foil lid carefully.. you'll be re-using it. If it tears, get a fresh sheet.

If you have lecithin, this is when you'd sprinkle it evenly over the surface of the decarbed herb. Then, you pour over your oil. Give it a little mix. Cover with foil, and place back in the oven for 45 minutes. This will be your half-way heating point.

After 45 minutes, remove from the oven (leave it on) and allow the dish to cool for 10 - 15 minutes. Once the temp has dropped and you can comfortably touch the dish, you'll carefully open it, keeping the foil, then press and mash the herb with your potato masher, or the back of a large spoon. This just helps loosen up that glandular material as it's breaking down, and helps expose it to the oil.

Replace the foil lid, seal well, and put back in the oven for another 45 minutes. This time, when it's finished, just shut off the heat and leave in the oven until reasonably cool... this will take about a half hour in a sealed still-warm oven.

When finished cooling from the second heating, you can either freeze your material in the dish, if it's pyrex, or pour the entire batch into a freezer-safe container.

Freeze it all for at least 2 hours (longer to get the center if you've made any more than a cup). Remove, allow to thaw to room temp or the shock will break your dish and waste all your precious oil, then place back in the oven for just long enough to liquefy and thin out the oil, for better straining.

Finally you're finished: you can either store it away, or immediately use your new Canna Oil.

----

***** -Dosing- *****

Now this is where you come in... a single edible dose when made from a combination of flowers and frosty trim, is usually approx. 0.35g as far as many dispensaries are concerned; but some people need half that, and some people need a little more.

1) The quality of your oil processing, 2) the quality of your flowers, and 3) your personal tolerance, will determine how much you need per dose. If you followed the above directions exactly, you've got a high quality oil, making the other factors very easy for an individual to calculate.

To determine your personal edible dose, whatever you smoke in a day if your a heavy smoker, or a single session if you're an average smoker, should be the absolute max you'd want to consume per edible, to avoid the risk of feeling overwhelmed your first few tries. It is going to effect you a bit more and for a longer duration when eaten, than that same amount would when smoked. So if you don't want much stronger sensations than you're used to, you'll want to use a bit less than you'd normally smoke.

For the math, if you're making a batch of 15 brownies, you'll probably want to shoot for just under 5.5 grams if your personal dose is for instance 0.35g. What folks say commonly, is that you should use 'a quarter ounce, per batch of brownies'. But of course, that's not going to be exactly accurate for every batch or recipe, or every persons tolerance... it depends on the size the brownies are cut to, and it doesn't take the quality of the oil into consideration.

So using math to determine a single dose, and knowing how many doses you plan on making in the end, is a much more accurate guide than to have me tell you that "you need 'X' amount of herb, per 'Y' amount of oil".

Take your dose/quantity per edible (example - 0.35g), then multiply that, by how many doses your recipe will make (example - 15 doses), to determine how much herb you should be using for however much oil the recipe requires (example - 5.25g, for the specific amount of oil the recipe calls for). 0.35 x 15 = 5.25

NOW, that's dosing. But how many doses to add, to a certain amount of oil, depends solely on the recipe you're making with that oil.

Not knowing what you'd be doing with it, or what your tolerance is, if I gave you any one specific amount it could be ridiculously overkill for a particular recipe, or not strong enough for another.

If a batch of brownies takes 1/2 cup of oil, and makes 15 brownies, but a batch of pasta sauce requires between 1/4 - 1/3 of a cup, and makes only 2 portions.... well, you see how that may not add up, dose-wise.

Long story short, the process is the crucial part, and I'm leaving both the oil and herb amounts and ratios up to you. Just use the above as a guide, and remember to take the recipe, and your personal dose into consideration before beginning your oil.

Good luck, and have fun!
Click to expand...

Using this method right now to make my first ever true batch of cannaoil, just removed from the first 45 minutes and mashed with a potato masher and is currently in the oven for another 45 minutes...after it freezes and I get it back to oil form going to make a batch of 420 easter brownies thanks for the recipe can't wait to see how it turns out!

Edit: Finished making the brownies last night around 9, 9:30 but figured it would be a bit of a waste if I tried one last night so waiting until after work today to enjoy a brownie...although after straining the bud out of the oil my hands were pretty covered in the dank canna oil, so I licked up all of that and had a solid buzz about 30 minutes later so definitely a good sign!

StickEnugzz · Apr 22, 2014

Congrats on the recognition BKS !

Hope all is well.

Peace

Afghancamel · Apr 23, 2014

bundat said:

Sadly, we don't have a fridge.

Currently, I'm just lugging around the oil in a bottle instead. :/
Drinking the oil tastes nasty tho, and having to make capsules when I need them is troublesome,
so it would be nice if i can get the oil to stay in the capsules 100% oft the time..
Click to expand...

How about just storing the oil in a jar and filling up the caps when you are about to take them? It is only the taste you are trying to avoid and your dosing won't change.

Afghancamel · Apr 23, 2014

rickc1882 said:

Is making the green dragon first better for bioavailability or will I get the same results if I just dry sift or even use bubble hash? From what I'm gathering it sounds like alot of extra work if I'm just trying to make caps.
Click to expand...

As long as you decarb, bioavailability will be determined by the method you use after stripping the cannabinoids from the material.

I have used coconut oil as both solvent and delivery agent and also used alcohol as the solvent and the oil as the delivery agent - no difference to the end product so long as you "process" the oil as per the tutorial.

Afghancamel · Apr 23, 2014

UniqueGrass said:

Can I have lecthin's benefits on edible potency if I add it after the oil is done? The weed and oil are still together, no straining yet. If I have to cook to get the same increase in potency, how long and at what temp?
Click to expand...

It's never too late to add soy lecithin to the oil. Earlier is better of course, but better late than not at all.

If you can't add lecithin for any reason the next best thing is to put the oil through several additional freeze/thaw cycles. This will break the cannabinoids down into ever smaller pieces which allows the medium-chain-triglycerides in the coconut oil to "absorb/coat" them more effectively.

I always use soy lecithin but I also put my oils through additional freeze/thaw cycles....you simply can't overdo them and they make an appreciable difference

Halfbakedjake · Apr 23, 2014

Afghancamel said:

It's never too late to add soy lecithin to the oil. Earlier is better of course, but better late than not at all.

If you can't add lecithin for any reason the next best thing is to put the oil through several additional freeze/thaw cycles. This will break the cannabinoids down into ever smaller pieces which allows the medium-chain-triglycerides in the coconut oil to "absorb/coat" them more effectively.

I always use soy lecithin but I also put my oils through additional freeze/thaw cycles....you simply can't overdo them and they make an appreciable difference
Click to expand...

I made my caps out of oil, I decarbed my oil at 250 first then I added coconut oil and let cook in a hot oil bath at 220-240 for an hour. I put the oil in caps after then I froze them. I didn't have any lecithin available so I tryed without.

I've been storing them in the freezer. I only did the one freeze though.

I've felt much of an effect off edibles and it was the same with these. I've eaten meals before, I've upped my dosage, still no effect.

I have about 20 or so caps left. Anyone have any ideas of what I can do. Should I melt it down and add lecithin?

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Nate489 · Apr 23, 2014

Afghancamel said:

As long as you decarb, bioavailability will be determined by the method you use after stripping the cannabinoids from the material.

I have used coconut oil as both solvent and delivery agent and also used alcohol as the solvent and the oil as the delivery agent - no difference to the end product so long as you "process" the oil as per the tutorial.
Click to expand...

I have to disagree. Oil will not extract as well as alcohol. Solvent transfer has given me the best results by a lot as far as potency and overall effect

Afghancamel · Apr 24, 2014

Halfbakedjake said:

I made my caps out of oil, I decarbed my oil at 250 first then I added coconut oil and let cook in a hot oil bath at 220-240 for an hour. I put the oil in caps after then I froze them. I didn't have any lecithin available so I tryed without.

I've been storing them in the freezer. I only did the one freeze though.

I've felt much of an effect off edibles and it was the same with these. I've eaten meals before, I've upped my dosage, still no effect.

I have about 20 or so caps left. Anyone have any ideas of what I can do. Should I melt it down and add lecithin?

Sent from my iPhone using Grasscity Forum mobile app
Click to expand...

It's not a lack of soy lecithin, nor, I strongly suspect, is it the freeze or lack thereof that is mainly at fault.

It is crucial, absolutely vital, that you follow BK's method precisely.

As I see it you have a couple of worries...

Problem 1

You say you decarbed at 250F. There's a kill right there. Then you went to 240F at times during manufacture. It's getting deadly around here... Never exceed 230F. The optimum is 220F in a range of 180/200F-230F.

Problem 2

You have only processed for 60 minutes.

To achieve satisfactory bio-availability, the absolute minimum required at 220F in an oil high in medium-chain-triglyceride content is, if I recall correctly, 90 minutes. 120 minutes to be sure. From this point bioavailability is as good as you'll get it by applying heat to the oil. You process beyond this point to degrade THC into CBN for a more narcotic effect.

When you have the method down you can customize your processing times. I usually process for 60-90 minute periods rather than 40/45 minutes these days because I find my oven can run close to exact temps for longer stretches of time. When I run for the shorter periods my oven is only at peak-temp for maybe 25% of the time as opposed to 75% during longer runs.

I'm still only processing for the same total of time. As for the timing of freeze/thaw cycles - these can be incorporated at any point or points during manufacture and, anyway, I always add several cycles into the mix.

Don't give up yet, just go to the tutorial and follow it as best you can

Afghancamel · Apr 24, 2014

Nate489 said:

I have to disagree. Oil will not extract as well as alcohol. Solvent transfer has given me the best results by a lot as far as potency and overall effect
Click to expand...

Nate489 said:

I have to disagree. Oil will not extract as well as alcohol. Solvent transfer has given me the best results by a lot as far as potency and overall effect
Click to expand...

According to BK in one of her posts I recall, all cannabinoids will be stripped by the oil in just minutes under heat. There is no reason why you can't strain the herb from the oil following the initial heat cycle.

Where alcohol out-performs coconut oil as a solvent is the improved recovery rate...you leave considerably less of the solvent behind in the dregs. I agree with you that it is preferable to use alcohol, but not because coconut oil won't absorb at least as much as alcohol does.

In fact, with alcohol only good for 95% on a quick wash I'd go as far as saying oil is a superior solvent - it's just very difficult (for me, certainly) to pull more than 80% of my starting oil from the herb and then add in losses from what I spill etc during (again for me) a messy process.

I probably pull close to 85% of my starting volume of alcohol all-up, so I'd have a 15-20% improved efficiency.

Still, I stand to be corrected

Nate489 · Apr 24, 2014

You dont quick wash when doing an extraction for edibles. Alcohol strips the compounds, where as fat absorbs them. After my alcohol wash the bud is done for. After an ool bath in the oven according to BKS recepie, the bud still has some left.

You are also a little mistaken about the advice for the caps. Lecithin is whats most likely missing, it personally cut the dose i take in half. His decarb temps are ok, he mixed BHO into coconut oil. Heat has nothing to do with bioavailability

rapo9510 · Apr 24, 2014

Could sombody please direct me to a how to for making lollipops ?

I was really hopping badkat had a write up on it after reading the first few pages I haven't found it !

Thanks growmies !

check out my journal http://forum.grasscity.com/hydroponic-grow-journals/1287120-rapos-2400w-dwc-sealed-room.html

Halfbakedjake · Apr 24, 2014

Why does 250 start destroying things when thc doesn't boil until 314?

Also I was confused because bk doesn't say the best way to decarb the oil before you add the coconut oil. So I did a hot oil bath with my glass cub covered. I watched the co2 bubble off.
I'm not sure how to do make the caps when you start with a premade hash oil. Any help? I thought I did it right. Can I save the caps I have?

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KRUNK · Apr 25, 2014

I just decarb my bud throw it in mix with the coconut oil 1 zip to 1 cup of oil in the crock pot for a few hours (at least 2) then fill the capz..haha easy peasy..

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