an EASY way to make a nice glass bong

Discussion in 'Bongs, Dab Rigs, Bubblers, Water Pipes' started by PassThatShit, Mar 29, 2005.

  1. so how'd ya like it bumtildeath? work well for ya?
     
  2. ^^^^ yeah, did it work well? it looks like a decent bong, but a testimonial would be interesting.
     
  3. well, i know it works, and it looks cool. but i havent had the pleasure of using it yet:mad:.
    but my last drug test is tomorrow, so hell yea:) ill have to get back to you on that...
    i find it funny that on the bottom of the bottle is says "healthy refreshment"
     
  4. Try using a mag lite flash light, just strip EVERYthing out. Then put a screen in where the linse and the bulb was, and use it as a bowl and a stem. I think this works the best for a bong, its about all I use. It is more or less a crack pipe, but it works, for a bowl and a stem or just a chillum style pipe....peace...
     
  5. There's another way to cut glass without using heat from a torch and without risk of explotsion. I'm not sure if this is covered in the "Glassdrilling 101" link that I saw posted previously, although I seriously doubt it.

    Nickle-chromium wire has a high resistance to current, and so when ample electrical current is passed through, it heats up enough to melt glass. All you really need is a decent gauge of nickle-chromium wire (22-23 ga.) and a 6V battery with at least 6 amps (lantern battery). If you want to use a thicker wire, add a battery (maybe two) and connect them in series. The higher the amps the hotter your wire (up to about 760 C, then you might have a problem with melting your Ni-Cr wire).

    The current methods of glass production include adding soda/lime in order to lower the melting temperature of the silica(glass). Most glass (excluding pyrex, which as borate added to it to increase the melting temperature) melts at approximately 550 degrees C or 1000 F or slightly below that.

    So, get five or six feet of 11 or 12 gauge coated copper electrical wire, about 3-4" of nickle-chromium wire, a 6V lantern battery, and you're set to cut some holes!

    I'm going to describe a single battery setup using 22 ga Ni-Cr wire. Cut a two lengths of electrical wire about two and a half feet long and strip the ends on both of them back by about 1". Twist each of your lengths onto opposite ends of your Ni-Cr wire. Try to avoid twisting your Ni-Cr wire onto the coating on your electrical wire. When the Ni-Cr wire gets hot (550-575C), it melts the plastic and it smells nasty! With the wire being that hot, it melts fingers too...so no touchie when it's running. Bend your Ni-Cr wire into a "U" shape to the desired width of the hole you'd like to take out of the glass. Twist a hand-length section of your coated electrical wire together a small distance away from your shaped Ni-Cr wire in order to create a "wand".

    When you hook both ends of your electrical wire up to your battery, the Ni-Cr wire should almost instantly become super hot, so don't let it touch anything. Once you've got your current flowing, take a "gouge" out of your glass with your Ni-Cr wire wand. With a proportionate amp-to-gauge ratio, your glass should be able to be worked like a warm spoon in hard icecream.

    If I haven't described this well enough or you have any questions about it, please feel free to message me. I haven't got any messages yet, and I'm welcome to the experience!:p
     
    • Like Like x 1
  6. That sounds cool redwork

    but I think i'm gonna need pictures in order to figure that out

    Which wires are connected to the battery?
    How do you turn it off without burning your fingers off?
     
  7. i think if u dont have any sheet metal you could use the bottom of a aluminum can..... if ur willing to take the risk
     
  8. I don't have a digital camera or a webcam, so I can't pass over any pictures, but I did make a drawing to give you a better idea of what I mean.

    The orange in the picture on the terminals of the battery and at the ends of the N-Cr wire is the exposed ends of your coated electrical wire.

    I did a bit of research today after reading your post and I have found a few easy answers for you. When you go to your hardware store to purchase supplies, you can ask for three simple things. 23 gauge electrical resistance wire, either two 6V lantern batteries or a 12V lantern battery, and a 10' coil of 12 gauge coated electrical wire.

    In terms of batteries, you want to have at least 6 A (amperes), which is the equivalent to 600 mA. If you can get your hands on a 12V model railroad transformer you can put it in place of the battery, and then all you'll need to do is plug it into the wall. When I designed the battery system, it wasn't so much for cutting stuff at home, as cutting glass out of a backpack.

    If you are really worried about burning yourself on electrical wire when you're unhooking your circuit, you can buy a button switch at your local electronics supply store and include it in the circuit. With a button switch, the circuit is only passing current (your amperes) when you're pressing down the button, so it can work out pretty decently in terms of saftey.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. We made one out of a tequilla bottle and some left over copper tubbing (like you use to install icemakers with) It was actually kinda nice looking.
     
  10. i think the benefits and smooth hits of a glass bong come only when u use glass for the mouthpiece, so i think it would b the same if u used plastic
     
  11. nawww man it has to do with any surface, the bowl, and the bong, plastic bongs just have that 'taste' to them... and with a nice store bought bong, theres no leakage whatso ever... thats the nice thing about glass, you taste nothin but pure weed adn its all air tight
     
  12. amen dude. i smoke out of glass or i smoke papers. no metal pipes or bowls or anything. glass is the ruler of all.
     
  13. you can get a good glass or metal slide/bowl at any tabacco/smoke shop for >4$. i wouldnt use alum foil/cans for a bowl for longtime use. thats a good design, ive made several of them, if you make a good sturdy one on a standard sized bottle cap you can make it work on any normal size bottle, so you can switch it up.
     
  14. nice bong man.illl have to try it
     
  15. doesnt every second grader no how to do this? seems pretty simple, i gues i was expecting more
     
  16. Was that even needed? Grow up man...

    Anyway, I've made a crap ton of plastic pipes/bongs. The main problem I've had were with attaching the metal bowl to the plastic pipe piece, It's really hard to get air tight without using liquid sealant (which I don't think is very healthy to be smoking). But with some patience, anything is possible. This looks like a sick design, I'm definately going to have to try this one... Totally agree on that "plastic taste" though, I'm not very fond of it.

    Also a good idea for bowls guys, a nice fat ratchet socket does the job pretty well. Just put a screen inside and youre ready to pack. Whatever size you prefer, but i prefer a pretty large one :D
    Notice the back 2 rows in the picture. Take your pick of size, there's none short of a plethera -_-
     

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  17. Nice man. I'm around that stuff all the time and I'd never thought of that.
     
  18. I hate aluminum foil for some reason, it ruins everything. I hate involving foil with weed, iono why ahha.
     

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